First I need to thank everyone that has helped me on here threw this process and trust me I will have many more questions...

After months of planning and gettin this kit together, its in

Not really any problems to discuss other than the FPR was dificult to get off, which wasnt too bad of a problem.

Heres the setup:

V1 Kit
3.125 pulley
Cartech FMU
AEM FPR
Greddy BOV
Custom CAI
EGT gauge
Boost Gauge
Fuel pressure guage

It took a boat load of time to start the thing I guess because there was really no Gas in the lines after doing all that modification...

I took it for a ride but went easy on it because my EGT and Fuel pressure gauges arent in yet...They will be going in wed or thur...One thing I did notice on the drive was that when I brought 1st or second out I my exhaust would pop around 4500...I didnt go past there cause my lack of being able to monitor anything yet

I guess once I put the gauges in I will know if everything is working properly, but from what I see and feel, it feels ok for now

-matt

P.S..Im so glad I put this kit in and didnt have someone put it in for me. I learned so much about my car and about the kit

 

Congrats, matty!

Just a quick question: For the Cartech FMU how do you have the little **** on the side set at? I'm going to put mine in but I was wondering which way to turn it.

Btw I drove around without any gauges for a year!

 

Congratulations! Once it's all up and running I'd love to meet up someplace and go for a ride.

 

I have that bleeder 1/3 of the way in from all the way open, and the top **** 1/2 way in from all the way blown out...

I am currently getting a weird idle. It will fluctuate from 550 to about 800 a few times up and down and then settle...weird ??

Im very happy I put this in myself...It took a long time of planning and such, but it was worth it

-matt

 

so, how does it feel...??? I am about to put in the same setup, only with the JWT S/C program and 370's...and shortly thereafter cattman or stone racing headers...

 

What was the total cost minus man hrs for the kit you built?

Chris

 

alot ..

It feels good and the 370's and JWT will be going in shortly

Im having a problem with the BOV...I have it connected to vaccum at a 5 way splitter and connected to the top nipple of the Greddy Type S... when I look down the shoot it looks like its not closing all the way or opening all that much...the Blow Off Vavle is spuddering when its suppose to (at the end of the gears) Im wondering maybe i need a new bov...While cruizing I am gettin a studder from the car as well

-matt

 

I get that too but it happens now and then. I haven't a clue what is causing it.

 

I get a sputtering/chugging noise when my Blitz BOV goes off after I let off of the gas.
What do you mean by a stutter while cruising?

 

bout damn time , hope you enjoy it, and i totally understand you wanting to baby it at first. Hell i still have to baby mine(sorta) due to the fact my fuel setup is not completley done

 

congrats matty, your patience paid off, i'll definitely try to find time to come visit u, even though its the school season. Maybe i'll come see u if i ever have problems now hehe, I really want to see how loud that thing is. Any clips yet?

 

It is normal for the bov to be partially open at idle or anytime when the manifold vacuum is high (such as when cruising at low throttle position).

You better not do any serious boosting until you get your gauges in. Cartech fmus don't come from the factory preset to give you a particular fuel pressure rise rate like the Vortech fmus do. The best thing is to have the fmu adjusted by somebody familiar with them while dyno tuning with a wideband O2.

Oh, and congratulations. Now begins the fun part of tracking down all the little problems that can pop up.

 

Stephen,
About the wideband O2 sensor... do you have to go out and buy one to be able to dyno tune or does the dyno shop provide that? I'm not familiar with the whole dyno process.

 

I need you to come on over and take some shots...hit me up

I am kinda concerned about that spuddering at cruizing....weird

-matt
p.s. its not that loud...not as loud as i expected it

 

Any good dyno shop will have a wideband O2 sensor. A potential problem is that results will not be valid if a tailpipe-sniffer type is used on a car with a catalytic convertor. You either have to replace the cat with a test pipe (hence the name) or have a bung welded to your y-pipe upstream of the cat that the wideband can be threaded into.

 

Will a regular shop have a wideband O2 sensor ?? or only a dyno shop

-matt

 

Thanks for the info, Stephen!
I already have a bung welded on my Y-pipe for my EGT probe so that's half the battle already!

 

A bung big enough for an O2 sensor? EGT probes I am familiar with are considerably smaller than an O2 sensor. And is it in or after the collector section?

 

They might if they do performance tuning.

 

Proper BOV Function??
The bov is a Greddy Type S and the threads on the top of the bov are stripped out from the previous owner, so he jery rigged a set screw in there...still puts force on the sping
BOV set on Halfway from hard to soft...
When I start the car cold, there is air blowing out of the BOV...when its idleing at normal operating conditions, its not leaking at all but that valve isnt set all the way down...if I play with the throttle, it will open up right after i let off the gas...Its a spuddering sound not a blow off constant sound??...if I have it set kinda more towards soft, it will open up as I gas up....im beginning to think the bov is not working properly ??

-matt

 

I am going to the dyno tomorrow and will dyno with a wide band o2. I still run my stock cat. I was going over things in my head, and if I am getting too lean up top (JWT ECU, cattman headers, MEVI, PF TB) I was going to get an SAFC and add some fuel. But since I have the stock cat I can't rely on the AF ratio to be correct? Will it even be close?

 

Its the Autometer EGT probe. I have no idea what the size of the O2 sensor is but would that bung be big enough?

The bung is located just a little below the flange where the Y-pipe connects to the header.

 

Anyone possibly know if my bov isnt functioning properly ?? Read above please

-matt

 

From what I've read, the cat will continue to consume some of the oxygen content in the exhaust gases, so what a tailpipe sniffer measures will have less oxygen content than what is exiting the engine. So you may get a false rich measurement. I have no idea how far off it will be, though.

If you want more information, go to the Innovate forums

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php?s=

 

The Autometer EGT probe is very small compared to an O2 sensor, so that won't work. Besides, you want the bung down by the collector so you are measuring oxygen in exhaust from both cylinder banks.

Any muffler shop should be able to weld on a bung for $15 or so. Make sure they make a big enough hole in the pipe before they weld on the bung.

 

The spuddering sound is normal for air being released when not much boost pressure is being generated. It will be louder when you go full throttle to high rpm and shift.

The bov should not leak at all when boosting. I've heard that Greddy's are susceptible to that, though.

 

Should the BOV be blowing air at startup....while its warming up, the Bov is blowing a considerable amount of air..

-matt

 

Stephan Max:

I called today for priceing on Dyno Tuning and I found a place really close to my house. $105 an hour including runs to dynotune with a wideband o2 sensor....
My main question is all I have for tuning is a Cartech and AEM FPR...I am going to be sending in my ECU to JWT in the next week but I do wanna be able to drive my car without worrying. Would it pointless to go and have my car tuned with just a Cartech when I dont have an SAFC or anything really to tune with ??
In other words, is my car "tunable" with just a Cartech ?

-matt

 

I only use a Cartech fmu and adjustable fpr to make afr adjustments. I have an SAFC, but I just use it to see what my max airflow and rpm are during a run. An SAFC is easier to tune with. Using just fuel pressure adjustments takes longer and requires more runs (= more expensive) unless the tuner is really good.

 

matty - that's normal at idle - like was mentioned earlier - you're at high vacuum at idle, basically what you are at in between shifts.

 

You also have a JWT as well though

-matt

 

sup matty, if u not gonna be busy tomorrow night i'll try to come through after work just to compare and contrast. My BOV lets out a lot of air at idle/warm up. sometimes it doesnt but one pull at the throttle then it gets heavy. AFter questioning, i hear it doesnt matter waht it lets out when car is sitting cause its just vacuum. But i would like to hear the greddy.

Also i plan to tune soon, hook me up wit that spot, thats cheapest i found in the area.