I have a Autometer Cobalt electronic boost gauge hooked up to my V2 set up. When I first hooked it up it was fine...it read 19-17 at idle...and when I would boost it would barley go over 10psi. Now when I am at Idle it will be anywhere from 10-0 in vacuum and when I boost it will go up to like 18 psi. Anyone familiar enough with this to tell me what is wrong? Also when I just feather the gas at low RPMs it goes up like a tachometer while in neutural...it will hit 5psi with just barley touching the gas. Anyone know...and yes I know a mechanical gauge would be better but this is the one I have and I would like to get it working properly. Thanks.

-Carson

 

when the car is off does the needle stay at 0 or where ever it's supposed to be?

 

For a boost gauge, wouldn't a mechanical one be better?

 

Yes, but like I said earlier this is the one I have. The way this is hooked up is that it gets a vacuum source in the engine bay then the tubing comes thru the fire wall and is hooked into the MAP sensor that comes with the gauge...from there there is a harness of wires that come out of the MAP and runs up the A piliar to the gauge. There is also a power line, ground line and lumination line hooked up.

-when I turn the car on it will drop all the way to the furthest vacuum reading then come back from anywhere between 10 and 0....it seems like it is trying to calibrate but something is not reading properly.

 

Autometer has some iffy quality control issues. First, make sure all the wires are tight. I would blame that pressure box next.

 

this is my second one....and it is reading very similar to the first one now...so I am thinking something else is wrong.

 

Make sure the map sensor is grounded properly, and make sure the voltage source is good. My GM map sensor requires at most a 5V source. Does yours? If so and you use a 12V source you will screw it up.

Where are you tapping the vacuum line into at the engine?

 

can someone please recomend a 5V (I will also check the directions to make sure what volts it needs) or less source...also I will check the ground, I am going to work on this tonight

 

Radio Shack sells transistors that will convert 12V battery input into a 5V output. It costs a buck or two. That's what I used.

Found it: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...%5Fid=276-1770

 

Thanks!...I'll pick one up after work and report back tomorrow.

 

ok, I looked into this lastnight, and the autometer cobalt gauge calls for a 12V power wire rather than a 5V. But after reading more it said I would get false readings if the power was not hooked up to a switchable source that will stay on whill the car is being cranked. My current hook up does not stay on while the engine is turning over. So, can some one please let me know where I can tap into a switchable 12V signal that stays on while the car is being cranked...thanks.

-Carson

 

bump...does anyone know?

 

what about tapping something in your fuse box?

 

ok, can someone recomend somewhere in the fues box to tap...its has to be switchable, and it must remain on during the car cranking