pimpjuice

I just recently got my VI working correctly and noticed a .6 psi drop. I had my boost controller re-learn 10 psi and you can feel the car pull even harder now when the VI kicks in.

I want to turn my boost up to 11.5 - 12 psi but want to do it safely with the setup I have now. I want to eventually get bigger injectors and a return fuel line, but want to try this out for now.

My question is:
How do you know when the car is knocking/detonating? Are you using an OBD to tell you or just listening for it, or are most of you just relying on J&S to pull timing as knock is detected? My car is pretty loud so listening for it is out of the question (unless I'm at a dyno).

Right now my A/F ratio is at 11:1 and I am pretty confident in keeping it that way while turning the boost up.

stephenlc

iTrader: (1)

I would like to know also. How much advance retard per pounds of boost?

pimpjuice

I retard 1 degree per psi of boost and 2 degrees per psi after 5800 rpms

MardiGrasMax

iTrader: (14)

J&S is cheeper than a motor swap,

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

Not bad...
but wouldn't you want the most retard at peak torque, and if anything add a little more timing back in after that (on the 5800+)?

pimpjuice

That would be ideal, but I wouldn't know how much timing to add in the higher rpm range. I guess I just need to get the J&S and watch it to see when it starts detecting knock.

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

Yep. Just a suggestion, something that would be more safe, and more power producing. Ramp up to your 1-2deg/psi retard at peak torque, and stay constant from there - or add back 1 or 2 degrees in the higher revs.

And I agree, J&S is a good unit for ignition - not having to worry about this stuff!

pimpjuice

Thanks for the help, I'll get on the dyno and try this out. The only problem with my ignition setup (greddy) is that right now its boost dependent. I don't want to run MAF voltage dependent all the time since it would pull timing when I'm not boosting. Maybe I'll set up the MAF voltage map and switch to it when I plan on being at WOT the whole time (ie: for a race).

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

With emanage you can use the MAP vs RPM table, and have best of both worlds... that is what I do. no switching, etc.

Am I not understanding?

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Like retard 2 degress @ peak TQ/5000 rpm and add 1 degree back @ 6000

good idea.

also run WI and add more timing

Jade95Maxima

not to sound retarded but what is J&S?

Tony

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

or meth...

jade: J&S = J&S Safeguard , a unit that retards timing by knock - for each cylinder. So you can get the maximum possible power (from advanced timing), while being safe from knock.

pimpjuice

I use the pressure sensor so I can map boost (KPa) vs rpm.

So you use the MAF Hotwire Voltage vs rpm then?

The only problem I see with that is that you could still be pulling timing under vacuum.

pimpjuice

I don't know if you meant 2 degrees total, but I would pull 2 degrees per psi you see at that rpm, then 1 degree per psi after.

It might look something like this:

At 10 psi:
5000 rpm : pull 20 degrees
6000 rpm : pull 10 degrees

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

woah too much confusion in this post!

Two things to address:

1. I would not advance back that much timing on the top end (20->10)... I personally back off 1->3 degrees TOTAL after peak torque.
SO, example 10psi:
4000rpm : -15deg
6000rpm : -13deg

2. I use pressure sensor (MAP) KPA vs RPM for ignition, sounds like same as you. You mentioned the problem of pulling timing under vacuum.... why?
On mine, I have it set to not touch the factory timing under 2psi across the board. Therefore knowing, at any given rpm, under 2psi, I am running factory timing.

stephenlc

iTrader: (1)

http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/
http://www.mohdparts.com/emanage/spe...translated.jpg

What about the knock sensor adapter instead of the rpm one? Or do you use them together? Its only $20.

pimpjuice

True, thanks. I change timing gradually anyways, I just used a goofy example.

In one of your above posts:
You mention MAP vs RPM and I mistook it for MAF Hotwire Voltage vs. RPM. If someone were to use that setting on the e-manage they might be pulling timing in vacuum.

Now that I am on the same page, I just need to get on a dyno and adjust my ignition map using the same boost vs. RPM setting I have been using.

Bags

iTrader: (3)

I was thinking more like this EXAMPLE..

4500 rpm pull 1 deg of timing for ~10 psi

5000 rpm pull ANOTHER deg of timing for ~10 psi

5500 rpm Keep it @ -2 deg retarded

6000 rpm ADD 1 deg of timing back in for ~10 psi

6500 rpm Keep it @ -1 deg retarded

Now, I have no experioence with this, just using waht I have read.

If this is the dumbest thing since the FLOBE, sorry

hlh0501

iTrader: (1)

Bags,
I would suggest more than 1 or 2 degrees total retard. I retard a little less than 1deg PER PSI. So at 15psi , ~12-13deg retard for me; and many retard 1+deg PER PSI.

Pimpjuice, glad we are on the same page.

Bags, one other thing - you really need a dyno of your specific application to know where to ramp up and down from in sense of ignition retard (to maximize power). It's not like we're talking about the end of the world here, but a few free ponies if you have a dyno to look at. I know it wasn't intended for this, but lets use your example - on my old dyno where it peaked 496wtq at ~4500rpm
http://www.fastmaxima.com/images/HlH...20Printout.jpg

(MY IGN SETTING)
10psi:
2500 -6
3000 -7
3500 -8
4000 -9
4500 -1 -9
5000 -2 -8
5500 -2 -8
6000 -1 -7
6500 -1 -7
7000 -7
* For anyone who does not have a dyno of their OWN VQ:
I would suggest -1deg (or more)retard PER PSI, ACROSS THE BOARD.

Oh, and what's the FLOBE? or if it's that dumb, maybe I shouldn't ask?

I'm not an ignition god either.. I can be wrong.

JeffesonM

iTrader: (5)

ooh, finally a question in this forum that I can answer!

http://www.flowbee.com/

Bags

iTrader: (3)

Thanks


And yeah the vaccum hair cut device.... bad idea