How the heck do they set it up according to hp? The clutch has to transmit torque, regardless of what the power is.

 

I like my new spec stage 3

 

I was wondering that too, all the clutches I know of are rated for torque.

 

Installed Clutchnet 6 Puck Sprung Hub Setup And I Like It So Far. Engages Really Smooth W/ Almost Stock Pedal Feel. Little Bit Of Chatter At Low Rev Releases. Hope It Goes Away. Hey Iansw And Chris Did Your Chatter Go Away?

 

I get absolutely 0 chatter unless I really fu<k up a shift.

 

I think clutch chatter comes from how you drive/ let the clutch out. You want factory, get a factory clutch. My clutch chatters on cold mornings through first and second once each. With proper adjustments on where the clutch lets out you should be able to over come the chatter by adjusting your engagement(your foot and peddle). I have 47k on my clutch so I cant talk bad about it. The peddle is firm but its no corvette clutch. 10psi and still doing just fine.

 

Some good discussions here about SPEC vs. Clutchnet for driveability. For a non-boosted application, these two clutches sound the best since they both have the sprung hub design for lower tranny abuse. Both clutches are said to be very "streetable" by their owners, so I'm still undecided. The SPEC is a full face clutch, which someone said by design would be more streetable. So, my tiebreaker question is...

Which type of clutch, a 6-Pack Sprung or Full Face clutch, would be better for driving stop-and-go traffic on San Francisco's hilly neighborhood streets? (and would I need more torque grabbing ability than a Stage 1?)

 

I dont have much chatter anymore and i just broke 600 miles - it was more me getting used to driving with it then it was the clutch's fault. You just cant release the pedal with the tach reading 1000rpm or it will chatter, just blip the throttle a little and it takes off like stock - although the 1-2nd shifts have become WAY more fun then stock....

I am 100% completly satisfied I did the research and ended up with Clutchnet - its a great clutch thats streetable and can hold power (AKA Mardi's 6k Clutch Dump Launches)

 

What's better to drive on San Francisco's hilly streets, a 6-Pack clutch (Clutchnet) or a Full Face clutch (SPEC).

 

I do admit that the CLutchnet is a little jumpy on hills - but nothing I can't handle.

I have no idea on it vs the SPEC tho.

 

Is 300 crank hp/ 300 crank torque too low for a clutchnet? (planning on boosting eventually but for now I doubt it'll go over that)

BTW, where can I order it?

 

www.clutchnet.com

those hp numbers are fine....anything would be fine...

You have to call them about the Maxima - it's not listed on their website.

you want the "Clutchnet 6-puck Sprung Hub Clutch and Pressure Plate"

 

Whats minimal for your internals to get to 16 psi?

 

a 6 puck is too insane for only 300whp...a 6 puck will only last half as long as a standard "full circle" friction disc clutch...for only 300whp....you would need nothing more than stage 1 of any brand clutch...I believe requin is running 320whp with the exedy stage 1 with no slip and he recently tried out the 2.87 pulley and still, the exedy stage 1 was gripping w/o a problem...

and your only looking for 300 crank hp...so yeah...any stage 1 should be good for you...

 

I had a Spec Stg 2 for a grand total of maybe 20 miles. I installed it on my car, went out for a cruise around my shop, decided to see what it will do at 15psi, hit the pedal, boost started to build up around 2200RPM, by 3200RPM I'm at 15psi and then the clutch just started to give out. The more I drove it the more it slipped. Got to to the point where I didn't need to give the engine gas to take off from a light. This was on my SR20DET powered G20. I got a ACT Xtreme from a friend who wasn't going to use it, never even broke it in- biatch is holding 24psi of a monster T4 turbo. I had 2 ACTs in the Maxima, 1st one the PPlate springs wore out and the clutch wasn't engaging right, the 2nd ACT which lasted about 30K miles did the same thing. I put in Exedy Racing Stage 1 in the car about 3 weeks ago, fully broken in I can bark 3rd gear on my big heavy 245-45-17 Blizzaks. Exedy is very smooth compared to ACT, no chatter what so ever, light pedal. I have a Fidanza flywheel that ran in the last ACT too. Report how the Exedy holds up to 10psi of GT35R on the Maxima shortly.

 

I just collapsed the pp and friend the disk, on my less than a year old Exedy stage 1. I do not beat on it it slipped all the time, and would at least once a day give me problems going into and coming out of gear, it would get like locked in gear. Spec stage 2 clutch will be in wednesday

 

You DID NOT go boosting around right after installing a clutch!
.......WTF?

 

yea, that probably isnt the best idea. I think your supposed to break the clutch in a little before you go boosting... you have to make sure it gets seated properly... as far as the exedy goes, good luck to you.. Mine sucked big time. would slip on any launch over 2k and did not like the boost to much...I had nothing but problems with this clutch.

 

Boosting isn't a good idea ? plz... I've done MANY clutches on cars, I done 4 on my Maxima, and around 4 on my G20 also, I can do them in around a hour. Anyways I think SPEC is just crap and I won't put anything like that in my car. Exedy grabs just fine on my car, and I have no problems with it. Lemme put it this way, do BRAND new EVOs or STIs have BROKEN in clutches when magazines put them to the test with few miles on them and beat the crapola out of them ? NO. I been working on cars for a living for years and I think I know a thing or 2 bout manual trannies n such- I rebuild my 5th gen tranny at 65K miles thanx to ACT blowing up my 4th gear. But I'm just a Jiffy Lube guy with a nice ASE plaque in my bedroom, making enough to afford a new NSX if I really liked to. If you wanna nice clutch go with ClutchNet or SOUTH BEND clutch, they have awesome clutches that really hold up the power without any chattering or customer service problems. FYI OE clutch on a Maxima is Exedy-albeit no the Exedy Racing clutch. Exedy cluthes sold on Ebay are pretty similar to Nissan Key Value clutches, and they are for people who don't care bout performance but getting from point A to point B. I hope thats not what your reffering to, cause I can tell you horror storries bout the Key Value Nissan clutch, SPEC, ACT, CenterForce etc....

 

exedy, clutchNET, and RPS...are hands down the best quality clutches you can get...period...

the cool thing about RPS clutches are that they are rebuildable and everyone at the place speak english, as the company is based out of Torrance, CA I believe...(very knowledgeable people when I spoke to them)...clutchnet I have heard nothing but great things about from all different owners of all different cars making all sorts of differenent power outputs...and exedy...well there must be a reason many, many, many manufacturers are choosing them as their clutch provider from the factory and just slapping their name on it instead...think how good the real nissan oem clutch is on our cars (which are made by exedy)...you read about maxima guys running 100K+ with a lot of them going to the strip every month for a night of runs and the track once a season as well...and not to mention the street racing or canyon racing a lot them do...with no slipping...mine gave out around 125K miles...of course I used to do canyon racing, auto X, and a couple times that the track and strip over the years...

oh and requin6 I believe on here was running a 2.87 pulley V1 S/C setup with mevi, CAI, and exhaust and JWT ecu and he said the exedy stage 1 still grips like a b!tch and ran a 12.9 with it...on the 3.125 pulley!!! he didn't run it with the 2.87 pulley yet...

 

The fact that you've had to do them that many times tells me you don't know what you're doing.

 

my G20 is a terror on the clutch, it puts out in excess off 500WHP- its topping out the TTZ MAF which is good for 550ish crank HP. If you show me a streetable 500+WHP clutch that costs less than 350 bux I will buy it. I also posted that 2 ACTs failed on me - pressure plates. My tranny hasn't ever been cleaned - in the bell housing, and I pretty much CAN reuse my disk from my OE clutch, both ACTs- they where not worn but the PPlates gave out. If I really don't know what I'm doing, then please tell me how I managed to make over 500HP out of a 2.0L engine without a use of single JWT part ? look at my cardomain sight and STFU. I work at Jiffy Lube for a living.

 

I can say with 450miles on my act stage1 I grabbed 4th gear with the stock sc pulley. Sounds kinda crazy but I did it ( I was trying to). Just a break in traction. Never did it again.

 

Jiffy Lube.....AHAHAHA.

OK - now that that's over with -
1) The Z32 MAF doesn't matter whether it came from a TT or not
2) It's good to 420 crank hp on a Maxima, which is a bigger displacement engine than the G20 - on the G20 it's only good to about 350whp because of the FAR MORE added air needed to make the G20 hit 350whp.
3) Any decent mechanic knows not to push on a clutch for at least 500 miles, 1000 if possible.
4) any decent mechanic cleans his belhousing after a clutch blows - it's quite messy.
5) Looked at your site - just like I thought - not ONE Dyno or Timeslip listed. A VERY well tuned G20 (Which I'm sure yours is not) isn't going to be over 350whp....and that's with some serious engine building and a VERY large Turbo.....not to mention the fuel management, ignition control, etc,etc that comes along with reaching that.

I'd bet your car isn't over 250whp....if you're lucky.



You're probably topping out the stock injectors, not the MAF.

 

Wow....pwned.

 

This looks like its about to get ugly, so I'm closing the thread.

In Blackbird's defense, I will say that he is right about the Z32 maf being able to meter about 520-550 hp worth of air. I dyoed at 360 whp, which comes to around 420-450 hp at the crank (factoring in drivetrain losses and power required to turn the blower). My maf signal was 4.4V at peak power, which is about 86% of maximum. That extrapolates (linearly) to 520 hp at 5.1 V.

Also, it doesn't matter what kind of engine it is. If it is taking in that much air, then it is making that much power, for a given afr and BSFC.