building a F/I VQ
#1
building a F/I VQ
stock VQ30DE block
stock VQ30DE crank
shot peened rods
9:1 forged pistons w/swain tech high temp coating
arp studs & bolts
heads?
i know our motors are "strong like bull" but lets make it better for boost. on the USDM VQ30 the heads dont flow as well as we would like, so i want to use the 3.5 heads. but the 3.5 heads combined with the forged pistons will bring my CR down to 8.3:1. the RB's, SR's and the 4G63's are 8.5:1 CR cars. so i dont think the drive ability of the car would totally Suck. what are your 2cents? the 3.5 heads also opens a ton of after market valve train parts for me.
other parts im planning for the motor build:
DEK intake manifold
70mm Throttle Body
700+cc injectors
stock VQ30DE crank
shot peened rods
9:1 forged pistons w/swain tech high temp coating
arp studs & bolts
heads?
i know our motors are "strong like bull" but lets make it better for boost. on the USDM VQ30 the heads dont flow as well as we would like, so i want to use the 3.5 heads. but the 3.5 heads combined with the forged pistons will bring my CR down to 8.3:1. the RB's, SR's and the 4G63's are 8.5:1 CR cars. so i dont think the drive ability of the car would totally Suck. what are your 2cents? the 3.5 heads also opens a ton of after market valve train parts for me.
other parts im planning for the motor build:
DEK intake manifold
70mm Throttle Body
700+cc injectors
#2
you can't use the dek manifold. You have to use the 3.5 manifolds. That mean 3.5 liter injectors, so you can't use 300zx or silvia injectors. I would just use the 3.0 heads and get the ported and polished. Especially if you know someone who can do it cheap. Some guy got his 3.5 heads ported and polish with oversized valves and he said that his builder told him that the 3.5 heads can easily outflow a 2jz head.
#3
Originally Posted by spanishrice
you can't use the dek manifold. You have to use the 3.5 manifolds. That mean 3.5 liter injectors, so you can't use 300zx or silvia injectors. I would just use the 3.0 heads and get the ported and polished. Especially if you know someone who can do it cheap. Some guy got his 3.5 heads ported and polish with oversized valves and he said that his builder told him that the 3.5 heads can easily outflow a 2jz head.
#4
the VQ30 heads SB ok to support your HP goals using FI. NA the heads are a much bigger deal, with FI its important but not so critical. Either DIY or have a shop open the bowl area and clean up the ports in the VQ30 heads a bit. If your on a budget I's skip the crazey valve train parts and get real rods, not shotpeened stockers.
#5
Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
skip the crazey valve train parts and get real rods, not shotpeened stockers.
my goal is a 600 whp and torque. after that, its time to build another car but rwd or 4wd. most likely an r33 GTS-T *fingers crossed*.
#10
How strong are the stock sleeves on the VQ30 and what can cause them to crack? Is it detonation, long term high power use, crazy power, or soemthing else? Ive been debating how much a VQ35 sleeve can handle and for how long.
#11
Originally Posted by Mad-MAX_SE
do the VQ30DET heads flow any better than the DE's or are they the same design with just a different intake manifold??
#12
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
How strong are the stock sleeves on the VQ30 and what can cause them to crack? Is it detonation, long term high power use, crazy power, or soemthing else? Ive been debating how much a VQ35 sleeve can handle and for how long.
#14
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
How strong are the stock sleeves on the VQ30 and what can cause them to crack? Is it detonation, long term high power use, crazy power, or soemthing else? Ive been debating how much a VQ35 sleeve can handle and for how long.
No one has ever cracked the sleeves on the 3.0 of if there was any hairline cracks nobody really bothers with it because they can get a new motor for $300. On the other hand there is only 2 guys on this board who are actually make big power like the 350z guys. Both using stock everything except a intake manifold change. One is like 450-500 whp and the other a little more. Maybe you'll 350z guys can get someone to develop a block guard which would be a cheaper way of giving you a little peace, instead of 2200 aebs sleeves. I really don't think they will crack unless your making 700+ hp.
I think maybe that one guys cracked because of bad tuning. All of you'll are throwing rods and cracking pistons. I don't think the 350z guys are pulling enough timing. maybe 2 degress for every pound of boost and 3 at peak torque.
Oh and I think the Nismo rod bolts were developed not to rev to 7200 rpm. I think they were developed to solve a mistake by nissan. The 3.0 can rev 7200+ on stock rods easily.
#16
Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
Their is a 1700hp 350 running a stock block. Runs low 8's 170mph traps. Detonation will crack a motor up quickly, thats the issue most are having, bad tuning from HP greed.
#17
Yes, thats me. Are you turbo-maxima on my350Z.com?
Ive decided to go ahead and let AEBS put my block under the knife. If everything is done right, the motor should be able to make mad power as long as it is properly tuned. Might be Motec, Autronic, or Techno Square ECU flash. Im getting the APS kit and it uses a piggyback called UNI-CHIP by Datek. I heard from Daking350Z of MTI in NJ that "the piggyback unit controls the electric wastegate controlling the Boost,fuel,timing based on Absolute Manifold pressure AND throttle position..SO unlike the TS reflash which is based on RPM not actual boost, this unit accurately measures the AMP from an onboard MAP sensor and readjusts the A/F and timing based on true boost readings..So if your at sealevel and making 9lbs of psi it takes that into account, now if you drive to say Colorado and are 10,000 ft above sealevel and the air is less dense and you make 5lbs of boost, your car will still run the same..Not true for an RPM based reflash where as you change atmospheric conditions it affects your vehicles performance and the ECU has no way of determining the new values." Sounds like a pretty complete solution. I will try and sit on 500 rwhp until APS's upgraded plenum and fuel solution is released and see how this option and others develop. But because im using ARP head/main studs, i wont be able to do any head work w/o pulling the motor so now i have to decide how much more money i should sink into the heads. Im sooo broke.
Ive decided to go ahead and let AEBS put my block under the knife. If everything is done right, the motor should be able to make mad power as long as it is properly tuned. Might be Motec, Autronic, or Techno Square ECU flash. Im getting the APS kit and it uses a piggyback called UNI-CHIP by Datek. I heard from Daking350Z of MTI in NJ that "the piggyback unit controls the electric wastegate controlling the Boost,fuel,timing based on Absolute Manifold pressure AND throttle position..SO unlike the TS reflash which is based on RPM not actual boost, this unit accurately measures the AMP from an onboard MAP sensor and readjusts the A/F and timing based on true boost readings..So if your at sealevel and making 9lbs of psi it takes that into account, now if you drive to say Colorado and are 10,000 ft above sealevel and the air is less dense and you make 5lbs of boost, your car will still run the same..Not true for an RPM based reflash where as you change atmospheric conditions it affects your vehicles performance and the ECU has no way of determining the new values." Sounds like a pretty complete solution. I will try and sit on 500 rwhp until APS's upgraded plenum and fuel solution is released and see how this option and others develop. But because im using ARP head/main studs, i wont be able to do any head work w/o pulling the motor so now i have to decide how much more money i should sink into the heads. Im sooo broke.
Originally Posted by spanishrice
Enron, your the guy whos motor got busted from the supercharger on my350z.org right? You live in houston right?
No one has ever cracked the sleeves on the 3.0 of if there was any hairline cracks nobody really bothers with it because they can get a new motor for $300. On the other hand there is only 2 guys on this board who are actually make big power like the 350z guys. Both using stock everything except a intake manifold change. One is like 450-500 whp and the other a little more. Maybe you'll 350z guys can get someone to develop a block guard which would be a cheaper way of giving you a little peace, instead of 2200 aebs sleeves. I really don't think they will crack unless your making 700+ hp.
I think maybe that one guys cracked because of bad tuning. All of you'll are throwing rods and cracking pistons. I don't think the 350z guys are pulling enough timing. maybe 2 degress for every pound of boost and 3 at peak torque.
Oh and I think the Nismo rod bolts were developed not to rev to 7200 rpm. I think they were developed to solve a mistake by nissan. The 3.0 can rev 7200+ on stock rods easily.
No one has ever cracked the sleeves on the 3.0 of if there was any hairline cracks nobody really bothers with it because they can get a new motor for $300. On the other hand there is only 2 guys on this board who are actually make big power like the 350z guys. Both using stock everything except a intake manifold change. One is like 450-500 whp and the other a little more. Maybe you'll 350z guys can get someone to develop a block guard which would be a cheaper way of giving you a little peace, instead of 2200 aebs sleeves. I really don't think they will crack unless your making 700+ hp.
I think maybe that one guys cracked because of bad tuning. All of you'll are throwing rods and cracking pistons. I don't think the 350z guys are pulling enough timing. maybe 2 degress for every pound of boost and 3 at peak torque.
Oh and I think the Nismo rod bolts were developed not to rev to 7200 rpm. I think they were developed to solve a mistake by nissan. The 3.0 can rev 7200+ on stock rods easily.
#18
Is this the Perfromance Motorsports' Full drag race car? It has the AEBS stroker kit, which includes sleeves.
Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
Their is a 1700hp 350 running a stock block. Runs low 8's 170mph traps. Detonation will crack a motor up quickly, thats the issue most are having, bad tuning from HP greed.
#19
Originally Posted by pawnstar12
stock VQ30DE block
stock VQ30DE crank
shot peened rods
9:1 forged pistons w/swain tech high temp coating
arp studs & bolts
heads?
i know our motors are "strong like bull" but lets make it better for boost. on the USDM VQ30 the heads dont flow as well as we would like, so i want to use the 3.5 heads. but the 3.5 heads combined with the forged pistons will bring my CR down to 8.3:1. the RB's, SR's and the 4G63's are 8.5:1 CR cars. so i dont think the drive ability of the car would totally Suck. what are your 2cents? the 3.5 heads also opens a ton of after market valve train parts for me.
other parts im planning for the motor build:
DEK intake manifold
70mm Throttle Body
700+cc injectors
stock VQ30DE crank
shot peened rods
9:1 forged pistons w/swain tech high temp coating
arp studs & bolts
heads?
i know our motors are "strong like bull" but lets make it better for boost. on the USDM VQ30 the heads dont flow as well as we would like, so i want to use the 3.5 heads. but the 3.5 heads combined with the forged pistons will bring my CR down to 8.3:1. the RB's, SR's and the 4G63's are 8.5:1 CR cars. so i dont think the drive ability of the car would totally Suck. what are your 2cents? the 3.5 heads also opens a ton of after market valve train parts for me.
other parts im planning for the motor build:
DEK intake manifold
70mm Throttle Body
700+cc injectors
#20
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Is this the Perfromance Motorsports' Full drag race car? It has the AEBS stroker kit, which includes sleeves.
#21
Originally Posted by MardiGrasMax
Ya know, I looked and looked and but I couldnt find anything to indicate that he had the AEBS kit. At what point did he put it in? Becaue he has slowly been urning up the wick.
#23
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
I heard the stock VQ35DE heads flow well and that heads can only flow as much as the cams allow. Maybe its better money well spent on some good duration and lift cams. Tomei 268?
#24
Z33 VQ35DE Solid type shaft, 238° intake duration, 240° exhaust duration, 9.20 intake cam lift (mm), 9.20 exhaust cam lift(mm), 125 deg lobe center angle intake, 90° 112° exhaust center angle
these are the specs what would the the ideal cam duration and lift for force induction?
these are the specs what would the the ideal cam duration and lift for force induction?
#25
Originally Posted by mtcookson
i have a VG30ET in my maxima that has 8.3:1 compression. going down from 9:1 stock it almost feels like a dog off the lines sometimes. once i upgrade the internals, i'm going with 9:1 piston. if you can get it around there it shouldn't be all that bad. 8.3:1 is getting a bit low imo.
how much boost are you running?
#26
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
VQ35;
Swept: 583.0704
Total Chamber: 62.6957
CR: 10.3:1
Alternate
CR: 12.0:1
Total Chamber 53.0064
VQ30;
Swept: 497.9202
Total Chamber: 55.3245
CR: 10.0:1
VQ32:
Swept: 525.0499 (95.5x73.3)
+4.2978 chamber
CR: 8.8:1 (VQ35 heads, pistons, gasket)
VQ30DE with VQ35 heads/gasket
Swept: 497.9202
Total Chamber: 62.6957
CR: 8.94:1.....
these are sr's calculations
VQ35;
Swept: 583.0704
Total Chamber: 62.6957
CR: 10.3:1
Alternate
CR: 12.0:1
Total Chamber 53.0064
VQ30;
Swept: 497.9202
Total Chamber: 55.3245
CR: 10.0:1
VQ32:
Swept: 525.0499 (95.5x73.3)
+4.2978 chamber
CR: 8.8:1 (VQ35 heads, pistons, gasket)
VQ30DE with VQ35 heads/gasket
Swept: 497.9202
Total Chamber: 62.6957
CR: 8.94:1.....
these are sr's calculations
#27
Originally Posted by pawnstar12
how much boost are you running?
#28
Originally Posted by pawnstar12
Z33 VQ35DE Solid type shaft, 238° intake duration, 240° exhaust duration, 9.20 intake cam lift (mm), 9.20 exhaust cam lift(mm), 125 deg lobe center angle intake, 90° 112° exhaust center angle
these are the specs what would the the ideal cam duration and lift for force induction?
these are the specs what would the the ideal cam duration and lift for force induction?
#29
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Im the stupid one here. You guys are the FI experts!
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321489
http://www.realoldspower.com/tech/valve_timing.htm
#30
Originally Posted by JeffesonM
Check out these threads for some good info on cams...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321489
http://www.realoldspower.com/tech/valve_timing.htm
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=321489
http://www.realoldspower.com/tech/valve_timing.htm
#32
Originally Posted by mtcookson
i have a VG30ET in my maxima that has 8.3:1 compression. going down from 9:1 stock it almost feels like a dog off the lines sometimes. once i upgrade the internals, i'm going with 9:1 piston. if you can get it around there it shouldn't be all that bad. 8.3:1 is getting a bit low imo.
#34
Originally Posted by pawnstar12
but if your running, lets say.........25 psi it wouldnt really matter
#36
oh yes, definitely. 25 psi would be ****ing badass to say the least
one way to make up for the lowend power loss with lower compression is to get a dual stage rev limiter. what you can do here is rev it to a launching rpm of whatever you want, say 2500 rpm. when you keep on the throttle and the revs are being limited like that it tends to help spool the turbo so that you can basically have instant boost off the line. that'd be about the best way to do it. next would be to use nitrous.
one way to make up for the lowend power loss with lower compression is to get a dual stage rev limiter. what you can do here is rev it to a launching rpm of whatever you want, say 2500 rpm. when you keep on the throttle and the revs are being limited like that it tends to help spool the turbo so that you can basically have instant boost off the line. that'd be about the best way to do it. next would be to use nitrous.
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