Wait, wait, wait, and the jet drier was broke. I only got 3 runs in and the first was only an 1/8 mile pass.

2nd run
RT .271
60' 1.820
330' 5.232
1/8 8.007 @ 89.92
1000' 10.366
1/4 12.348 @ 113.95

3rd run
RT .123
60' 1.728
330' 5.073
1/8 7.837 @ 90.25
1000' 10.206
1/4 12.208 @ 112.81

On the 2nd run i lost traction in the 2nd gear shift, note the 330' difference. In the 3nd run I burned out for a bit longer and focused on the control and shifting, pretty much nailed it. Thats all for the stocker since the tracks are closed. Time to build it up...

Boost only, set at 16.5psi, I have data logs in the E-manage and need to transcribe them...

 

we need more details, boost only? How much?

 

Where can we find a spec sheet of your current modifications?

JP

 

Race Trim...
Slicks at 13.5psi
Launching at 6k
AGX's 3f/8r
Front pass & rear seat out
Spare and jack out
Rear Bumper Reinforcement Removed
All loose items removed
Rear tires @51psi

Modifications...
PFI Turbo Kit,
Turbonetics 60-1 Turbo w/.58ar exhaust
JWT Turbo ECU
300ZX TT MAF
740cc Injectors
70mm Throttle Body from 3.5L Pathfinder
Bored and Port Matched Intake Manifold TB Port
Middle East Variable Intake Manifold (ME/VI)
J&S Electronics Utlra SafeGuard, Safeguard Only, No Retard
Greddy E-Manage, injector conversion only
Greddy Profec E-01 Boost Controller, set to 16.5psi
3" Test Pipe, Wrapped with Thermo-Tech Exhaust Wrap
Warpspeed 3" B-Pipe with Resonator
3" Magnaflow SS Straight Through Muffler
SMC Short Shifter
Clutchnet.com Six Puck Sprung Hub Clutch and Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
Place Racing Urethane Front and Rear Motor Mounts
Walbro GSS342 255lph High Pressure In Tank Fuel Pump
NGK Iridium IX two step colder
Spark Plugs Are Indexed Using Moroso Indexing Washers
Harlen Components RPM Switch (For ME/VI Valve Control)
Autometer Dual Pillar Mount Gauge Pod
Greddy Electronic EGT Gauge (Pillar Mounted)
Autometer 0-100psi Sport Comp Full Sweep Electric Fuel Pressure Gauge
J&S Electronics Knock Monitor Gauge w/ Air to Fuel Ratio
Custom 3 Gauge DIN Mount
Autometer Sport Comp 30hg to 20psi Vacuum/Boost Gauge
Autometer Sport Comp Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
Autometer Sport Comp Electric Oil Temp Gauge
Perma-Cool Oil Cooler
16psi Radiator Cap
Brembo Cross Drilled and Slotted Front Rotors
Stillen Cross Drilled Rear Rotors
Porterfield R4-S Front & Rear Brake Pads
Goodridge SS Braided Brake Lines
Eibach Springs
KYB ABX Struts & Shocks
Deburred, Polished, Cryo and Shotpeened Trans Gears
Quaife ATB Differential
Redline Shock Proof Heavy Gear Oil
Redline 10-W30 Motor Oil
17x8 SSR Type C Rims on the back at 55spi
235/45-17 Crapytomo HTR+ Tires
15x7 Kosei K1 Racing Wheels (14lbs) (For Track Use)
M&H 24.5x8.5x15 Drag Slicks W/Tubes and Rim Screws(For Track Use)
Some Hyper White blaahhh blaahh blaahhh...

 

nice runs almost had 114mph on the 2nd run

what have you changed since your 108mph run besides the exhaust work

 

you make me sick

are you going to dyno? It will be interesting to see what comes from the buildup over the winter

 

nice times

 

Good runs!

Just by reading your posts over the last few months I believe the timing retard by Jim Wolf is what kept you from 11's.

 

I added two more psi of boost was 14.5 now 16.5. Their is some room for timing and with the built motor I will address that, JWT can do a 110oct race gas program. I will use that and de-tune it as needed. FWIW, the J&S knock monitor has allways been quiet, even in 4th gear with 900c EGTs. I feel that the Redline Shock Proof Heavy gear oil is sucking some power, its a trade off I accept. The Quaife also sucks some power. I fugure both of these are sucking ~2-4mph of my traps The 1.7s are a 6k launch, its all good! I should dyno shortly, work and holidays are f-ing with me now.

 

cant wait to see the dyno

 

Are you still using that cryo treated deburred transmission?

 

Deburred, Polished, Cryo and Shotpeened Trans Gears

Yes sir!

 

How much did all that tranny work end up costing you, and if I recall you did some of it yourself (at least the disassembly/reassembly)? If you can give a breakdown of how much each bit of work cost separately (deburring, polishing, cryo, and shotpeening) that would be most helpful if you have those figures handy.

 

I say! Well done Matt! Cant wait for the dyno numbers.

 

Cryo was ~$75 for all gears and shafts and ring gear. +$25 rt freight
Shotpeening was ~$65 for the same parts. + $25 rt freight
The deburring and polishing bits were ~$25. You of course need an air grinder, time, patience and skill.
Seals, bearings, shims, etc. are recomeded to change. If it shifts fine the syncros are usually OK, I did not change mine. You will need a heavy duty gear puller to ge the gears off the shafts, I paid about $65 for mine, but I had to make some long exensions to get the gears on the lower par of the input shaft. You will need several cans of break parts cleaner and RTV sealer. If you dont change the case parts the shims are usually OK. I measured mine anyway and they were with in spec, even with new bearings mine were good, a litle loose is good for a race trans also

 

Great runs matt... I gues next year will be 115+ trap speeds

 

you stopping by for Thanksgiving?

 

Nice runs

 

absolutely sick.


like i said i will pay for a dyno. you just gotta bring it down here.

 

Hey Matt! Awesome results as always! I had thought that the .58A/R would be way to small for you! I guess it has not slowed you don't very much . This is one focking fast car! What do you have cooking as a winter project?

 

Hahaha, you run 90mph in the 1/8 in 8 seconds.

It takes me a 1/4 mile and 15 seconds to break 90mph.

Wow, that really put it inperspective for me...

 

Yhea it does put things in perspective.


I have a question about the last 1/8. There is a gain of 24mph. Some of us NA guys gain 21mph and Sleeper96 gained 23mph. Seems odd to me that you would not gain more that 24mph, but maybe a boosted slip is totally different that a NA slip. It could be just that your trapping so much higher that it's hard to gain alot of speed the last 500ft or so, not to mention the resistance the air resistance is greater as well.

 

Some 10 second cars only gain that in the last 1/8. It takes a ton more power to accelerate from 90 - 115 or 105-130 mph than it does to accelerate from 75-100.

 

That is what I figured after I thought about it. Just so used to looking at NA maxima slips

 

using slicks at low tire pressure will suck power in the top end. and i'm sure the shock proof heavy and quaife also rob MPH in the last 1/8, but what they gain in the first 1/8 is so pricless!

I only picked up ~14mph too on my 1/8 in my 11.9 run

 

I lost about 35 HP with the Quaife.

 

Seems about right, Ive been considering giving a non LSD trans a try. With slicks it should be OK.

 

*dyno*dyno*dyno*

 

 

I thought the same thing

 

Sorry Bud, work, Thanksgiving, work, work travel... Im looking at next week again.