Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I've been thinking my project for next winter will be going boosted. There is a V1 available locally. I went into a local shop to get some Redline MT-90 and Amsoil 10W-30. They specialize in Ford buildups. They have done some extensive work on Mustangs with Vortech blowers. In one of the display cases they had a V1 sitting there. It did't have any of its internals. On a whim I asked if they ever get any used ones in for sale. He said he had one right now. He brought me in back and showed me a V1. It is the S trim. He said he had it rebuilt after being removed from the car. I have never dealt with this shop before and I don't know about their rep.

My questions are:
1. Is there any way to tell if it actually has been rebuilt?
2. Is the S trim unlivable as far as whine? I don't drive my car for comfort and the sleeper thing is long gone. I guess I'm asking for a vid of a S trim V1.
3. Are there various internal possibilities for the V1? Is there a number that corresponds to the compressor wheel for the Max?
4. If it turns out to be rebuilt and is the correct blower for the Max is $650 a good price?
5. Are there enough used parts on the board that can be had slightly discounted to justify getting the blower used rather than getting the kit?

I don't want to waste money on the 3.6 pulley so that is some money that would be wasted with the kit right there. With the different pulley goes the different belt but I need totally different belts anyway due to the UDP(I don't have a stock pulley to revert back to) and no A/C. I think I'd like to run ~10PSI. What boost pulley would that be with the UDP? I can get things like the oil feed cheap locally. This place also gets used FMU's in all the time. He was talking crazy things like 12:1 though. I always thought 3:1 was what comes with the kit. Am I mistaken?

I'd just like to say that I was extremely suprised by how light the blower was. I always got the impression that they were at least 20Ibs.

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Really, picking up a used blower kit would be easier than picking up each piece bit by bit. The hardest part would be getting the mounting bracket by itself but I've seen only once an ebay ad for one a couple of months ago.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

talk w/ gabe, i will pm you with more info, he's offering his v2 for under 2k

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

The whole kit for $2K? I was wondering if you'd come in on this one slimer. Its shaping up like we're going to be trading expertise next winter. I have an idea. We just trade cars for the winter. I'll do the swap for you and you can do the blower install. LOL.

BlackCat, I was going to guess that the bracket would be the only part that would be hard to find used. There is no reason to ever need a new bracket; correct?

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

That's pretty accurate Broaner as there is no reason you'd need a new bracket unless you broke yours somehow. I bought a used kit last year for $2500 so I think you are on the right track. I had to have it rebuilt this spring as the seals were shot (it was leaking oil pretty badly when boosting). That costs about $450. T'were I to do it all over again, I probably would have spent the extra grand and bought the new kit. Chasing things down on a used setup can add up to a lot of labor hours that could have been better spent somewhere else.

The V2 bracket sells for about $7-800 from Stillen and I don't think you can even buy the V1 bracket anymore. But after all the little issues I've had, I'll tell ya one thing..if you can find a V1 bracket GET IT! Iansw has a V1 and has not experienced any of the belt, alignment or wear issues associated with the V2. If I could, I'd revert to a V1.

Also, IMHO, going with a 300ZTT Fuel Pump (just shave the head for fittment) is a much better route than Walbro. More and more stories are popping up out there about the Walbro's going poo. Yet there iaren't many stories about the TT Fuel Pump failing or even being used for that matter. (is this some sort of grease monkey secret?)

My $.02

KMax2988

If you get a V1 bracket, you're gonna need to find a modified thermostat housing also (Stealin won't sell them anymore).

I ran into this problem after I bought a used V1 kit a few years ago. Came up short in every angle of finding one or even finding a pic of one. In all, it took me a good year to fully fabricate a new thermostat housing that worked. Just something to be aware of.

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

Hey thank Kmax! I had not been told that little tidbit of info yet. That changes my statement of "if I could revert I would".

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

You just missed this bracket:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

you cant run the s/c with the udp, so off it will come. as far as your a/c that might be another problem. the ac helps position the belt to fully turn around the blower. you can get a belt that fits but thats another mess. you would have to trial an error to see what fits best and that requires a lot of on and off for the blower.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

So people say the V2 isn't as good because: It shouldn't be used below freezing and it shreds belts. Anything else? What are the benefits of the V2? What are the differences? And why is the V2 more popular?

C Max, why can an SC not be run with an UDP? It it just not good practice or is it not physically possible somehow? I can imagine that it would be difficult to figure out what boost you'd make with various pulley sizes and inturn difficult to select the correct FMU. What else?

KMax, what is different about the t-stat? Is it slightly different or totally? I'm fairly competant at fabricating so if it doesn't require a whole new piece I be down to alter the OEM t-stat or bracket.

Thanks for the link to the bracket Ice but I'm doing this as next winters project. This winter is tranny. I don't even have enough money to sp!t at this point.

Max1Man, I agree that it would be nice to have a kit that is 100% complete and ready to be installed. I however am the type that does it right the first time. I have waited patiently for over a year to get all my tranny funds and parts because I don't want to be pulling out my shredded OEM clutch in 10K or swapping gears with the rowboat oar. If I go boost I want to do it right the first time. I don't want to waste money on the kit that comes without a CAI, and wrong size/poor quality pulley. If I bought the kit that would be >$200 wasted on just those items. That is $200 wasted in my mind. That is excluding the fuel pump issue which you mentioned which would again be money wasted.

Why is the V1 bracket not made any more and why the hel! is the V2 bracket so expensive? Is it steel or aluminum? Its a bracket, not a piece of platinum! I can understand that it took some R&D to originally design the bracket but d@mn. The company that originally designed the bracket has long since recouped their investment of designing this piece yet they keep the price high. WTF?

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

you would underdrive the s/c. stillen provides the correct pully or you can have one made

KMax2988

Here's a pic of my creation:


Was extremely hard to get the angles correct; this right here was the 4th and final version that worked. Ended up taking me about 4 Genuine Nissan Thermostats to make it. Went through 4 different people for the welding (all friends) until I found one that was actually able to bead the pieces together without gaping holes. That one there still had unseen pinholes in the welds but I remedied that by covering them with JB Weld (every single version had pinholes in the welds to say the least; the cast Aluminum nissan uses is extremely crappy). If you need anymore info just let me know

KMax2988

More pics:

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

That is some nice fabricating right there. Just wondering why a longer lower rad hose can't be used. Seems like it be easier to bend it around than make a bracket like that. Why can't a notch be cut out of the bottom of the bracket or does the thermostat inlet go through a hole in the bracket?

KMax2988

You'll find that there is very little room behind the V1 bracket to fit a radiator hose so the neck must be brought out past it in order to get a proper connection (tried it already). The problem with cutting the bracket is you will then run into the belt and idler pulley making it impossible to connect the radiator hose. This is where Stillen improved the design in the V2, in a sense, by re-routing the belt and making the bracket run around the thermostat housing. The design of the V1 bracket completely covers up the area between the alternator and the timing cover bolt by the water pump; the stock thermostat housing runs directly into the bracket (will not fit with the stock thermostat housing on at all). Near the end of the bracket where it connects to the alternator ear, Stillen placed an idler pulley to create the proper tension and angles needed for the belt to run the blower and all the accessories. What the modified thermostat housing does is snake behind the plate (ever so closely) running between the alternator ear and timing cover itself, then protrudes past the plate where you can get a hose and a clamp on the end.

Thanks for the compliment btw

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the nice description. I'm still having a difficult time picturing how it all sits. Can you just post any more pics of that area? The shots on your homepage help a bit.

I still can't decide which route to take. The V1 seems to be better and I don't want to waste money on unecessary parts in the kit but sitting on my @ss waiting for a V1 bracket to pop up could be annoying.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

I'm in the same boat as Broaner. I have a guy locally that may sell his v1 kit. he had the kit for around 2 yrs and rebuilt the sc last year. I'm hoping he'll sell it for under 2k or anything over that I might go with a turbo instead. Would it be worth it if I could get this kit for less than 2k? He also has a pulley for 8psi, I've got a budget y, h-flo cat with an obx 2.25in catback. would it be an issue to run that boost or do I need to upgrade to a bigger exhaust first?

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

You are in a way better situation that me. You have a full V1 kit to buy while I only have the blower. Small exhaust doesn't pose a problem for boost it only holds back the engine's/blower's power potential.

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

What is the difference between the V 1 and the V2? which is better? I know that the V1 is loud but that don't bug me. Anything else that would be good to know?

KMax2988

These pics should help:

This pic shows where the thermostat housing runs relative to the back of the bracket.


This pic shows where the housing runs relative to the engine. (black is the bracket, red is the thermo housing; the arrows indicate two points of the engine that have to be ground in order to creat the proper clearence through that passage)

Hopefully that clears it up for ya. Enjoy

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Thanks very much. That clears it all up. That seems fairly tedious but doable. How long would you say it took? BTW, that is one hel!uva clean engine.

KMax2988

Took me about a year to make the one that I showed you pics of. That involved doing research on what I needed to weld aluminum, figuring out without pictures what Stillen did to the stock housing to make it fit behind there, buying housings and chopping them to bits to make the 4 different versions it took me to be sucessful, and finding a person who was willing to do the task of welding the pieces together. Of course there was more but to go into that kind of detail would take me quite a while to lay out.

Thanks again for the compliment; a weekends worth of elbow greese, sanding and polishing is what it took to get those results.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Okay that is quite a bit of work. I'm still undecided.

Only a weekend of work. I've spent at least 10 hours on that bia and it is barely beginning to look like that. I gave up the vavle covers. I'm having those polished.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

I have a V1 kit laying around...if I were to send it in and trade it for the V2 kit (vortech offers this as an option), would I just hold on to my V1 bracket, and the V2 will bolt right up to it? also....exactly how loud is the V1....I am almost worried now...lol...any buddy on here have vids?

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

It is loud like you know you don't want some of this! Fast and Furious 1. Blue maxima has v1 on it and is also auto. You can hear what it sounds like on the movie to give you an idea.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

the vids of requin also show how loud it is...but I think vids do it no justice...it prolly is a lot louder in real life...I have only heard the V2/riden in a max with a V2...maybe I should do the trade in program and keep my V1 bracket....since I was gonna send in my V1 to be rebuilt anyway...

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I think the vids of SC'ed cars are not portraying the true sound. On most average cam-corders the mic is a very little thing that can't pick up highs or lows. The whine of the blower is way up there approaching the threshold of pain(Only technically; the whine is music to my ears). A nice mic attached to a regular camera would be nice but it should be in a car next to the blown car I think. Then there should be a vid of the sound from inside the car. The sound from inside is not like real life cause mics tend to pick up closer noises much better.

Michael, so you only trade in the blower? Why does Stillen not want the bracket as well? Now that we know V2's don't work too well in cold weather I would think Stillen and vortech would begin to offer both. If you do this certainly let me know.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

no....you send in the blower to vortech....which I was planning on anyway to have my V1 rebuilt....but they have a trade in program....I think it's like $900 or something to get a brand new V2 if you trade in your used V1...you don't have to send in the bracket...additionally, I live in socal, so the weather never gets below 35....the lowest I have seen is 35 on my buddy's in car temp readout...

in requin's vids, the sound is annoying at idle...but everywhere else, you can't hear it of course, as the pitch/whine goes out of the human audible hearing range I would think...I would have to wonder how annoyingly loud the V1 for around town driving...wish there were some better vids out there...!!!

slimer

iTrader: (13)

i know blubyu was looking into a t trim

matty

iTrader: (54)

Some are louder than others..I got lucky...You cant even hear my V1 whine about 2K Rpms...At idle there is a very low cricket whine coming from under the hood but its cool...

I wish sometimes its louder...Alot Louder

-matt

Requin6

iTrader: (36)

i have a high res video if someone wants to host it. it portrays the sound much better than the ones on vqpower.com.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

how large is the vid?

Requin6

iTrader: (36)

i have one 14.2MB, this one is not highres, but better suited for sharing. the sound is also clear in this one. looking at my high res videos a 30 second clip is 4GB yeow.

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

i had both V1 and V2 and this is my 3rd V2.with the V1 the sound is very noticeable almost like bearing noise but back in the day that was music to the ear i made people nervous a block before i got there. i didnt have any issues with the blower or belts. with the V2 its much quieter but people still know your coming. i didnt have any issues until i ahd a accident. the belt would come off often and it was a p.i.t.a. this V2 i have now sometimes makes cricket noises when its extremely cold but other than that no issues and i have whipped many of booty with it.

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

jesus...14mb, i'll host it but you owe me 1

aim me: bijangxe

jcy98maxse

iTrader: (8)

Any peformance difference? How much boost were you running?

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

i didnt notice anything special between the two besides the noise. but it is about a 1lb difference in boost according to pulley size in favor of the V2. a quick breakdown. with the V1 and 6lbs of boost i ran a 14.4 in the 1/4. the V2 at 9lbs of boost i ran a 14 flat and now i have the t trim i believe V2 i ran a 13.5 in the 1/4 with 11lbs of boost. i never ran a comparison with both with same lbs of boost because when i got the V2 i went straight for 11lb pulley. i overspinned the V2 when i ran a 60 shot and they upgraded me to the next model for 500 bucks more. so to me the only difference is the noise.

michaelnyden

iTrader: (15)

I talked to Brian V and he told me the 2nd gen V1 is no louder then the V2's....don't know if that is true or not....anyone here heard a gen1 and gen2 V1 vs. the V2's? if even the V1 2nd gen (the one I have is too loud), I will trade it in for the V2 from vortech...but keep my V1 bracket!

I am almost sure the V1 in Fast and Furious is the generation 1....

requin, you have the V1 2nd gen? can't wait to see the higher-res vid...!

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

My V1 is loud and I like it! Sometimes when I drive my brothers car with v2 it is nice to be quit but over all the noise adds that special touch. I am sure my v1 is the 1st gen and is actually at vortech right now. My brothers v2 makes noise so it's not exactly silent.

|Bijan|

iTrader: (12)

Ok here's a video of Pauls car

RIGHT click, save as

VIDEO