mhadford

Most of my mods so far are listed below, all work done with my own little hands. Many thanks to ptatohed for his write up on the SC install! The SC plus y pipe gave a dyno'd 92 WHP gain.

I now have outrageous amounts of wheelspin and torque steer. I think I need a LSD. Any advice? Cattman has a Quaife, Stillen sells a Vitek and somebody else sells a DIY LSD insert doo-hicky with springs. What is good value? The Quaife is ALL the money!

Also, when changing to a smaller pulley, what other mods need to be done, and at what level of boost?

Thank you.

96explorerxlt

mmmm I really want to do this, im still debating between this or the turbo. How many WHP you putting down right now? If your 5spd I think you could get a 01 AE transmission, those have the VLSD i think...hmm..lol i need more power :-(

mhadford

I have a manual tranny in a Canadian SE. One 4th gen thread indicates I might already have an OEM LSD. I'll check, but it sure doesn't drive like an LSD is present. I get single wheel spin at launch.

I'll check the HP charts when I get home, and possibly post the dyno results. I think stock was 154 and boosted was 246. The stock number was disappointing to me because Nissan claims 222. I am sure the WHP gain was 92 which was VERY noticeable! The dyno tech guessed it would have been about 110 at the flywheel.

I chose the SC setup over turbo because:

- Stillen and users have thouroughly tested it, and it works.
- Torque increases at low rpm as well as high
- Relatively quick and easy
I am sure turbos have advantages as well, but I am pleased with the SC so far.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

you will have major super giganto torque steer.

Mine is ridiculous.

mhadford

The more I look into this, the more it seems like an LSD won't help torque steer, maybe just wheel spin. I may have to live with it as a consequence of high power in a fwd car. I guess I shouldn't be surprised. I used to have a mazda 626 turbo, where the torque steer was really amusing in 1st gear when the power came on.

desertmaxima

iTrader: (5)

You cant get a quaife from cattman they dont have anymore i know they are on their site but as far as getting them it wont happen due to the conversion rate of the british pound.

mhadford

I found and cross-referenced my transmission model number, RS5F50V, and apparently it does have a limited slip diff already. I am using synthetic GL4 fluid.

As I said earlier, I have lots of torque steer and it seems like the wheel spin is not controlled.

Anyway, I dug out my dyno graphs. Before SC and Y pipe: 151 HP and 182.5 torque. After SC and Y pipe: 241 HP and 227.5 torque.

I wonder why, aside from power train losses, is my initial 151 HP so far below Nissan's claimed 222 HP? Is Nissan exaggerating? My car under performing? The dyno not standardized?

Do I need a smaller pulley?

The consensus seems to be that 10-11 PSI is safe-ish. Can I go to the 3.25 or 3.125 pulley without changing out the Vortech FMU and/or injectors? Do I need a new FMU disk, and which one?

Thanks.

subs1000w

what kind of dyno did you use

that can make a big difference in the numbers

Requin6

iTrader: (36)

any advertised horsepower/torque rating via TV, magazine, radio yada yada is measured at the FLYWHEEL. when you get on the dyno the power is being read at the WHEELS. after drivetrain loss your #'s will be lower. although 151hp at the wheels does seem pretty low for at stock DE-K. "usually" a manual transmission car endures a 15%-20% drivetrain loss. an automatic car usually a litte more. at 151hp you are well above 20% loss.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

those numbers sound like they were done on a mustang dyno.

good for tuning, but bad for bragging rights.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I'm willing to bet you've got a broken power valve actuator. 182ft-lb is about where you should be, but the fact that you only made 151hp is saying your car wasn't breathing up top worth crap. Thats 30-35hp lower than it should be. You should be looking at like 180-190whp and wtq stock for a DE-K.

mhadford

I didn't know there were different dynos. This was done (of all places) at a VW performance shop www.concept1.ca

They said it was a dynojet - the top of the print out says WinPEP DYNOJET Performance Evaluation Program. The tech at the shop said it wasn't very good for comparing to anything but previous readings on same dyno for my car. At the same time, it says SAE horsepower - an objective standard.

Maybe I'll just photoshop the numbers to make myself feel better, and drink to forget they were ever anything different.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

I was also gonna venture the culprit was the VI Neal.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Dynojet is pretty much the standard. And he is right to a point, if were talking about splitting hairs and 5hp differences, then yes he is right you can't really compare one car on one dyno to another car on another dyno, but when there are large discrepancies like your stock dyno showed, it's pretty safe to assume something is wrong. Also the fact that your torque is normal but the HP is low, is further evidence that your car may have an issue.

Also I think your final suggestion is a good idea lol.

mhadford

You're probably right - thanks for the heads-up! I did some reading on the org, and the VIAS problem seems to be one of the few common problems I HAVEN'T addressed! I've replaced my warping OEM rotors with Brembos, and swapped out a mitfull of ignition coils!

I'll check the actuator function tomorrow. Any tips?

Is it possible to fix, short of replacing the whole frickin' manifold? The diagnostic procedure says," Replace VIAS control solenoid valve as intake manifold collector assembly."

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I believe the VIAS actuator is built in to the manifold and that the only fix is replacing the whole manifold, but I have no direct experience with it as I have a 95. There are folks on this forum very well versed in the subject of 2k manifolds, Stephen Max for one, has retrofitted a 2000 manifold onto his 4th gen max, and could probably answer your question. Or probably any number of people in the 5th gen forum could answer it definitively.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

Stephen said that gunk had collected in the area and caused it to bind. My guess is that the **** came from EGR and PCV flow. Clean it up and plug those things up.

mhadford

I checked the actuator function today - it works at 5,000 RPM as it should. This doesn't mean the internals are working, though. I'm going to take it to the dyno on friday, and compare with VIAS plug conected and pulled. If no different, I'm going to get a new intake with VIAS (for $500!).

If that happens, I'll offer the old one for sale to anyone who wants to soak it in solvent or something to see if it can work for them. Otherwise, I'll cut it open, see what's inside and post some pics.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Sounds like a good plan, however do some searching around before you blow $500 on it. You can get them for about $200-250 USD.

crewchief264

I haven't read everybody elses replies! However, I have a Quaife and for the 1300.00 that it cost, I would buy it again and again and again!!!!! It comes with a lifetime warranty, even when raced and it is a totally awesome improvement and never requires being rebuilt!!! like those cheap clutch style lockers. This diff can sense which wheel requires traction and which doesn't and it sends power to the right wheel. I had this installed in my car before being s/c'd and I was doing autocrosses and it was awesome, my first time out I won the entire event (although driver experience is a lot-it was my first time, I consider myself an above average driver) against corvettes, evo 8, and other modded cars, the quaife is well worth the money and I know you'll love it,I love mine and other than boost it has been the best upgrade, except if you're "open" now, you'll definitley traction once boosted!!

SPiG

iTrader: (7)

Quaife is NOT sold anymore. Period. You could possibly get one used. It would cost a small fortune and be extremely rare that anyone would sell theirs. There was an attempt to start a Kaaz production but it never got off the ground. Currently OEM, Vitek, and Phantom grip are our only reasonable options. I trust OEM the most out of all of those.

There is some kind of fix with the VIAS activator with JB weld. This should get you started: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=341077 Check out the 5th gen forums to find other posts about it. You shouldn't have to spend the $400-500. That would be a complete waste.

There is a way to test if the LSD is working. You jack up the car to where both front tires are off the ground and spin one tire. If the other tire spins the same direction it is working. If it spins the other direction or not at all then it is not. It is in the FSM.

You should also consider getting motor mounts. Either Energy suspension or home made Poly filled OEM. If you get your mounts are blown then you won't get traction even with LSD.

mhadford

Thank you VERY much for directing me to that thread! it is EXACTLY the info I needed! Not only am I expecting to get even more horsepower, but org members have saved me ~$500 CAN on this fix.

I think I sould make another donation to the org!

vortechpower

iTrader: (1)

Get some copper plugs first. One step colder with 3.125 and you will be safe with what you have.

mhadford

Thanks, I already put in one step colder iridium plugs. NGK aknowledges that platinum plugs are not good boosted and copper is better, but claim the iridium are the cat's pyjamas.

mhadford

Done. Thank you all very much.

Gotta go buy some JB weld!

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

mhadford, or you could just clean if yourself and save $490. Or you could paypal me $400 and I'll clean it for you and ship it back for free. :wink:

h2kSPiG, Qualfie is for sale. You just have to take a trip across the pond and knock on their door. You guys know the company has a government contract to install Qualfie's on nearly all police cars and ambulances in Britain?

SPiG

iTrader: (7)

According to my understanding, which could be wrong, Cattman made an agreement with quaife to help produce the maxima ATB Diff. Because of this, Cattman is the only available seller of a Quaife ATB Diff for the maxima IIRC. Since Cattman decided that it was no longer going to be worth the cost because of very slow selling rate and the dollar losing worth compared to the pound.

I am not sure since Cattman decided against stocking them if the agreement no longer counts and you can get it directly through Quaife or if Quaife is not allowed through some contract to sell these direct through the customer. If someone wants to call both Cattman and Quaife, they would probably answer these questions. I don't have the money for this at the moment but some kind of quality LSD is in my future.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

It would make sense to me that any contract would be void if Cattman didn't want to carry it anymore. Qualfie sure as hel! still wants to sell these because they spent all this money on R&D. I can't call cause they are closed. On Monday we will know.

mhadford

Jay25 is selling his transmission with Quaife. I've confirmed that I have a VLSD and it is working, but I'm going to try some new motor mounts after I deal with my VIAS issue, and see if that improves traction.

mhadford

Took apart VIAS. Sure enough the cup was eroded so that there was no connection between solenoid and rod. Did JB Weld fix. Will report on results.

I also noticed that I am wearing out my SC belt on one side. Found lots of discussion threads on this alignment issue. I have ordered a 3.12" pulley and shim set since I need to replace the belt anyway, and do all the alignment voodoo.

Once you get into this modding biz, there really is no end to it, is there?

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

There is no end just temporary postponment if you run out of money.

mhadford

Is there general agreement that a 3.125" pulley with 1 step colder plugs is safe without any other mods? Or do I need a different FMU &/or fuel pump?

I do NOT want to blow up this engine (yet).

SPiG

iTrader: (7)

Do you have any fuel upgrades right now? Do you have the FMU and pump that came with the V2?

A Walbro would be a good idea but not required if you have the aux pump that came with the Stillen kit. The Cartech FMU seems to be more adjustable and gives a "better" tune than the vortech. Injectors and maybe a Z32 maf with some kind of tuning system would allow you to get more power. Read around here to see what kind of fuel setup will go best with your power goals and wallet.

mhadford

I have stock in tank pump and the inline pump that came with kit. I've ordered a walbro GSS342 to replace the in-tank, and plan on removing the inline booster pump. Keeping the Vortech FMU - I think it came with 8:1 disk?

Then I thought I'd put in a testpipe and get it dyno'd to make sure it isn't going lean. I'm also putting in exhaust temperature and fuel pressure gauges to make sure nothing tragic is going on.

My goal at this point is to just have a safe setup with the 3.125 pulley, not maximum power. That can come later.

Does this sound workable?

SPiG

iTrader: (7)

I would skip the test pipe and save for a 3" exhaust. Warpspeed doesn't make one right now for 5th gens but you could talk to them or you could get it custom with some mandrel bends.

mhadford

Test pipe is cheap, and I need to use it for it's actual purpose - testing air fuel ratio without a cat in place; and not to eliminate the cat. (although I might leave the cat out when I'm done and put in an O2 signal simulator)
Thanks for your feedback!

mhadford

I have a new site that summarizes my Maxima and Supercharger adventures so far:
http://members.cardomain.com/mhadford

mhadford

Okay, here's where I'm at now: 3.125 pulley on the way; should arrive tomorrow. In preparation (and on the advice of Latinmax), I bought cartech/begi FMU and Walbro FP to handle increased fuel duties.

In the meantime, I've found a deal on an Emanage. I understand that the emanage takes over fuel injector function from ECU, increasing duty cycle. I haven't installed anything yet, need to figure out some stuff, like:

will the cartech FMU's attempts to raise fuel pressure w/boost screw with the emanage? Do I really need the Cartech with emange, or just a fixed pressure regulator to keep fuel pressure slightly raised but constant?

Is there an org member who bought the emanage PC software, but no longer needs it? Looking for a deal...

Thanks!

Mike H.

crewchief264

you won't need any regulator other than the factory one, and you won't a need any fmu's. You will need bigger injectors and the psi sensor incase your maf can't read the extra air, the psi sensor allows further manipulation where your stock maf cuts out. you will also need the injector and ignition harness to tune. then find someone who can tune it for you on a dyno, I wouldn't attempt to do it yourself, there is a good shop in michigan called godspeed dan is the guy to talk to, he is tuning my car this spring, with same above setup.

mhadford

Thanks, Crewchief!

This is what I bought.

It includes e-manage, injector harness, ignition harness and knock sensor, for $270. Did not include pressure sensor, but that can be purchased separately, I guess.

I have been doing some reading, and it looks like I can start off having the e-manage just intercept and alter the MAF signal like a safc does; to fine tune the A/F with the cartech FMU raising the fuel pressure with boost, instead of swapping out the MAF and injectors right away. Then later I can do more stuff with it? What do you experts think?