1BADMAX

Alright, a question for you all. This coming June, I'll be returning from Iraq.....thank god. Anyway, my Maxima will be payed off and I'm looking at doing some more mods to it. My current mods are listed in my sig. A few changes will be made if I stay N/A, like getting rid of the p.o.s. Stillen headers and getting either Hotshot or Cattman. Also, I'm going to get rid of the Stillen rear section for Cattman's full exhaust. The additions would be as follows...Stillen bodykit, big brake upgrade, subframe connectors, urethane bushings, sts, lsd, hi-performance clutch, lightned flywheel, TS Ecu, Apexi Safc-2, and maybe cams. My goal is around 250-260whp. Now, before the SSR turbo was finally confirmed, I was dead set on going n/a, but now I don't know. Also, many people seem to believe that rather than waste my money on the Maxima, I should either buy a project car or trade my Maxima in and buy a more powerful car that takes to mods better than our Maxima's do. Suggestions have been the Sti, Evo and my favorite the 05 GTO. Anyway, please give me your input on what I should do. Thanks.

KCMC582

iTrader: (4)

i always did like the idea of making a N/A monster, like SR20 did with his 12.89 run. it would be hot to have a street driven, daily driven NA car that could run that fast. but it would also be nice to have one of the few turbo maximas out there (5th gen). i guess it depends how deep your pockets are.

2kVQboodah

iTrader: (8)

boooooooost your shieeeeet turbo sounds cooooooooool hahaha

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

If you want cheap frills. PM me, I will tell ya exacly what to buy and do to run 12s reliably and not attract much attention while doing so.

RacertilTheEnd

Go turbo, or supercharger at least. First, because big hp gains. Second- turbo= Blow off valves= sounds awesome.... supercharger= sexy pulley whines

RacertilTheEnd

keep the maxima by the way

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Keep the Maxima for daily driver, don't mess with it, buy something else for fun- STI, EVO, SRT4, WRX aint fun.

Triple8Sol

iTrader: (29)

I'm sticking to NA

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

You could keep the Max and boost it, but if that is your only car then you'll have to be ready for the downtime when gettin it installed, and then factor in if something were to happen one day say on the way to work, thats your only car so your now stuck.

You could get a another car, are you ready for more payment? or something older that you can pretty much buy cheap and build up into a nice powerful car? it depends on your plans with the Max, the car is paid off so I'd keep the car and with the mods you've listed you should be putting down atleast 250fwp after those mods you make 255 (before drivetrain loss) so once those mods hit 250 will be no problem.


it really depends on your plan for the max

Metal Maxima

iTrader: (30)

ANother vote here for NA.

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

I say stick with the N/A mods as well. You can get into the 12's and not have to worry about the boost related problems. Then get yourself a nice moddable vehicle (check the Legacy GT w/ mods as well...over 300 HP, better looking car than the STi IMHO)...

.45

Thanks for the service.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

You guys are brave man, Irak is the last place I would ever go on this planet. Because you have the 3.5 L I would say stay N/A, like many mentioned there is good gain to make with the available bolts on and you can possibly run low 13's or high 12's, can you say stick a M3 in da bott.

I'd like to express my respect to you and each of your collegue who take big risk to make america safer.

Cheers

AA

Ammi

iTrader: (26)

I would stay NA and save money for your future car. Turbo = too much money

jrod1014

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what I was going to say... Good luck over there... your work is greatly appreciated.

Regarding the car, I would just stick to making it an N/A monster... In my opinion it's more practical since we have FWD cars and FI would produce in excess of 350+ fwhp...

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

I would like to salute you as well for serving and protecting the freedom that we are ablet o enjoy here.


also one could argue that the mods he would spend on his car now could be saved up for another car, but a turbo is the most expensive mod possible, but I'm sure many have spent a turbo kits worth of money on their car. there was a thread goingin the 4th gen asking how much they have spendin mods (only mods not maintinance) and many could have turbo'ed


but I See your point though.

Gears & Crosses

Thanks for your bravery and may God protect you while you are still there.

Maybe you could do a few more NA mods and then get a Nitrous kit for insurance. You might have money left over to get the GTO and use the Max for everyday?

Gears

1BADMAX

Basically, I'll have enough money to pay the car off. But, the big thing is that I'll have no bills left at all. So, either I go turbo, stay n/a, buy a project car, or trade. I don't have the money or lets say I don't want to keep the Maxima and then buy an Sti, Evo, or GTO as my second/project car. A project car to me is a 93 Civic w/GSR motor swap and turbo or a 240SX w/SR20DET swap or countless other sub-$10,000 cars. My only thing is that I want the Maxima to stay realiable and be able to be a daily driver. If going turbo is going to some how make the car unrealiable then it will not happen. Either way one of the 4 is going to happen. Keep giving me ideas, they're much appreciated.

doublea

iTrader: (7)

If you turbo your max, $hit will happend one day or another and because you can afford a project car, buy one for the track day and keep the max in a sexy way.

Cheers

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

91-93 G20 with a mint body with 5spd tranny and blown engine- 1000 off Ebay.
JDM SR20DET with T25 turbo-1200 bux
ClutchNet stage 3 clutch- 370 bux
JUN ultralight flywheel- 200 bux
UD pulleys- 200 bux
Spearco FMIC- 250- Ebay.
Piping w/Powdercoating 200 bux.
S-AFCII to lean out the stock ECU for turbo SR- 250 bux
3" turbo back mandrel bent exhaust- 400 bux.
Greddy Type S blow off valve- 140 bux
End result you have 250WHP at 12psi, around 260TQ and still get 36MPG on the highway, track times- low 13s at 104-106MPH. Sleeper factor- totally wicked.

nateplaysbass

If you want it to be reliable, don't even think about a turbo. From the sounds of it, you would be just as happy to have an N/A monster as you would be to go turbo.
Nate

subs1000w

i really think that the ssr turbo kit will be done in such a way that it will be very realiable so that gets my vote

if you want to go fast and i mean really fast turbo is the way i mean come on how can you compare 260whp NA to 400WHP turbo there is NO comparison trust me and with 400whp you could run mid 12s with no wieght reduction on street tires

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

for the price of the SSR turbo kit I can make a sick G20 that will roast a 400WHP Maxima, and this is not with the stuff I listed on top but my own recipy. You will always be stuck with crappy beam suspension, and you will basically make your reliable at this point Maxima a car that will always need tweaking. I say make your Max your daily driver and find something cheap for a project car like I mentioned. If you really like NA power, then you can make reliable 240-250WHP NA SR screamer with bolt on parts.

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Why is it that in so many of your posts you tell people to build a turbo G20 or sentra?

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Cause its hard to beat the performance per dollar value it brings you. Hes asking for a opinion on what to do. Having built plenty of SR20s before the whole 240SX swap thing came around nowa days I know what I'm doing. I've had my 1st SR in 97 and 1st DET in 98, and it responds to mods alot better than any VQ. I'm giving him MY opinion.

Maximum Performance

having an sr20 vechicle i would have to agree with BBVQ, the sentra/g20 chassis is very light and fun to toss around,(400whp on a sentra, rips it like there is no tomorrow) the maxima is a luxury car that is heavier and made for crusing.....that is why you see there is so many guys there in the 11s with their sr20 powered cars, while using them everyday, there is not that many maximas like that out there
plus its cheaper to blow up a cheap sentra then a maxima....turbo shouldnt go on a daily driver period......why would u wanna hack up a 20K maxima, when for 10K you can have a beast plus everyone pokes fun of how slow sentra are hehehe

Ant96GLE

iTrader: (4)

We need to have a talk

subs1000w

this debate could go on forever **** i could buy fox mustang do a junkyard turbo on it for 2k and run 11s at 130 its been done numerous times but really its all personal preference

i want a fast daily driver because i encounter fast cars almost everyday and like to hurt there egos if you know what i mean and seriously it dont get much worse then gettin waxed a 4dr max and i really think the car could still be very reliable with 400whp

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

I dunno how you going to keep the body from twisting itself apart on a 2K dollar budget runing 11s which I deff find hard to belive its doable, unless its a very crude kit using alot of stock components.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Go NA. I am beginning to think that 280whp is possible NA. SR's car has 263 with stock ECU and stock cams with heavy @ss 17-inchers and a 31-pound flywheel. Plus it's more original to have an NA monster

subs1000w

well budget is the whole idea so its not going to look like much but it would be very functional

heres an exaple

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/...ghlight=budget

and if you want more do a search on there site or just browse in the DIY section

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/...php?forumid=15

there are some very cool setups on there

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Eh, the reason there are so many SR20 powered cars in the 11s is because A) there is more aftermarket for that motor, and B) the sentra in which it can easily be swapped has been around since like 1990, whereas the VQ has been around only since 95, and really hasn't had any sort of significant aftermarket support until about the year 2000. Hell the first turbo cars weren't showing up until 2002. There are probably as many turbo SR powered cars in one large city, as there are aftermarket turbo VQ cars in the entire nation.

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

Most people do not realize that SRs came in Sentras, G20s and 95-98 200SXs, 98-01 Sentra SEs. They are just as potent as the JDM motors, with only a few differences. No need to swap motors to make huge power, only diff between a US DE and JDM DET is the pistons, piston oil squirters and sodium filled exhaust valves. Now 54C SR is a completly diff animal. US motors have been known to put down almost 500WHP on stock pistons and rods. I'm just chiming in for the guy who wants to make a killer sleeper cheaper.

1BADMAX

Wow, I never knew my old 98 200SX SE-R had a SR20 in it. Anyway, what is the potential of a 240SX w/SR20DET or is the Sentra/200SX/G20's the way to go. Is it anywhere near as cost worthy to build a high hp 240SX. I defeintly would make my project car, turbo'd and maybe NOS. Anyway, BlackBIRDVQ, give me your ideas. Thanks.

MDeezy

iTrader: (27)

Stage 1 Turbo Build up for an SR20DET would give about 350rwhp. the sr20 has great potential, some argue that the KA when turbo'd give just as good results, but either way a 240 would be an excellent project car, want to do once also but, man that seems to be what everone is doing, I want to do something different . . . I guess hence my affinity for Modding my max.

subs1000w

i would proboly go for the 240 also i have nothing against the sentra/G20 except there FWD and i would rather have a RWD 240

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Stage 1 goes from 200 flywheel hp to 350 rearwheel hp???

BlackBIRDVQ

iTrader: (15)

WTF is a Stage 1 build up ? I been around SRs for close to 10 years now and I never heard of Stage 1 setup...

91-98 SR20DE US spec with a T25 DET turbo on it makes around 210WHP- and this is bone stock. A BBird DET makes around 200WHP due to smaller exhaust cam on some models and less compression 9.5 vs 8.5. Engines are virtually identical with the exception of cast 8.5:1 comp pistons on the DET. Stock MAF is done at around 240-250WHP and beyond that you need to use a 93 Cobra MAF which is good for 350WHP, TTZ MAF which is good for around 500-550WHP, or you can get a Q45 MAF which no one has ever topped out yet- rummored to be good till 800WHP. 370cc injectors that come on the DETs are bigger than stock 259ccs, and 370s are maxed out around the same HP as the stock MAF- but you can raise the fuel pressure and kick them up till 300WHP but its not that safe to do so but maaany people do it. Stock T25 maxes out around 270WHP, and anything past 16psi on that turbo is just killing its efficiency and lifespan. Only thing 240SX has over the Sentra is RWD, its deff not faster. Stock Redtop DETs run high 13s to low 14s in a S13/S14, where a Sentra can pull off a low 13 and there are manny cars in the 12s even some in the 11s on a T25 (pushing the turbo way hard). There are a zillion parts for the motor compared to a VQ, SRs have about 100 diff cams to pick from, where VQ only has a hand full. VQ rods are bout as strong as GA16DE rods, you open up a bottom end of a SR motor and it makes a friggn 4 bolt main Chevy 350 look like a Geo Metro engine. I have seen dynos of 900WHP from a SR and there are some in Japan with 1000WHP. Anyways if you wanna talk SRs PM me or AIM me, I don't wanna offend someone by talking bout fast Sentras and destroying peoples egos.

Gears & Crosses

What I can't figure out is why Nissan doesn't make a new version of this car??? This car seems to be getting very popular again (especially with drifting). I friend of mine bought a Black 89 SE coupe new and he rode it hard. It never broke on him...

Quicksilver

iTrader: (1)

They do have a new model...

http://www.freshalloy.com/site/cars/...via/home.shtml




It's the best looking Silvia style/body yet...