The DR mod changes both the 1-2 and 2-3 but not the 3-4 its electronic. I even did a video of before and after to prove it.

Thats really all that matters you can change tire size or extend limiter to get 125+ mph in 3rd so the 3-4 isn't used.

PS Last year I did 155 runs and this year so far 114 runs and 14 race days, plus the last 6 races I started using a 4 wheel linelock to launch which is even harder on the trans. That doesn't mean its bulletproof but they will take a lot of punishment if treated properly. The only thing I have done is the DR Mod, 26k GVW cooler and Mobil 1 synthetic.

 

just want to get this cleared up, if u have 2.5 vb mod, (with cooler,) its a 1-2 shift improvement....and its absolutely okay to do the drop resistor mod with WOT switch in addition to the 2.5 vb mod? is there any conflict here? i was told to trash my drop resistor mod after i got the 2.5 vb mod....thanks...

 

I wouldn't suggest you do both. However which do you think shifts faster? Doesn't your DR mod firm up 2-3 as well?

Doing both is virtually throwing your money away on the VB mod. Its only real advantage to some people is faster shifts at part throttle which is something I really don't want, I like the way it shifts at part throttle stock. Its the stock WOT shifts I don't like.

 

thanks for clearing it up, ive had the dr mod on with wot switch for the nitrous, but i trashed that and got the vb mod, pro torque converter, and bulletproof tranny...its 2.5 and def feels like a manual tranny sometimes...i dont rememeber the dr mod feeling like this...id step on the gas and it felt like my car was being thrown a couple of yards, like a manual...i love it

 

Who built your transmission? How much did you spend on it, if you don't mind me asking?

 

since he is from brooklyn, i am assuming maximum tuning in LI

 

I just had a nice boost episode this morning as I was merging into the hwy. A 4Runner that was already on the hwy was beside me and kept pace with me. There was alot of room left before the lane ended so I just floored it and left him standing there. As I took my turnoff and came up to a light the tranny again had a hesitation problem before it decided to get going. Dang slippage again! Looks like I'll have to curb my boosting urges and make plans for a 5spd in the near future!

 

does NRH have a website i can look at?

 

mine only lasted 3k and it was brand new from nissan.... it was 2k on 5psi and 1k on 10psi and i drive hard. after my rebuild life has been great(knock on wood) 6k and going still very strong.

 

Do you have a stock transmission?

dima87, NRH doesn't have a website. But you can reach their shop at: 301-617-2500.

 

Yep, its stock with the Mobiltek vb mod and B&M tranny cooler.


Hmmm...is the torque converter the only thing thats going downhill on the tranny? Any idea how much that costs to repair? Trying to be cost effective here.

 

What do you mean? My TC isn't going downhill at all. I am VERY happy with it.

But a TC job will be around $300-400. They have to cut it open and then they can do anything they want to it.

I was just asking about your tranny b/c I wanted to make sure you don't have a built tranny and it's still slipping on you.

 

lol! I was referring to my tranny! Its totally stock.

I've found some loca shops that do custom torque converters. Time to phone around!

 

Getting a higher stall TC isn't going to solve your tranny slippage. Is that what you were thinking? If your tranny is puking on you, a nicely built tranmission is the only way to fix it for good.

 

I thought my tranny oil was a bit low at the hot level so I had it topped up. Drove it on the hwy this morning and found out that that didn't help. Time to go get some estimates.

 

You can also look into junkyard trannies. They usually offer something like a 90 day warranty on those and sell them pretty cheap.

But if you're SC'd, then I would NOT get a normal rebuild or a junkyard tranny. Go ahead and spend $2000-2500 on a nicely built tranny with a high stall torque converter. Maybe you might want to change the final drive if you're a 1/4 mile freak like me. I'm not sure if Rob at NRH deals with international orders. But it's worth to find out.

 

I was just reading up in the archives about the transmission control module and how it affects the 1-2 shifting. I wonder if that's my problem? After a quick boost on the hwy one morning, taking an exit and after coming to a stoplight the tranny took quite a while before it decided to engage and I would get a rather harsh jerk.

Now I'm wondering if the shift solenoids of the vb mod is dying. Any thoughts on this?

 

It's definitely possible for the VB solenoids to die. Go through your FSM and test all sorts of things and run the codes in your tranny ECU and see what you come up with. Don't be so quick to rebuild your tranny until you are sure it needs rebuilding.

 

Thanks Aaron! I'll run the codes when I get home from work.

 

Ran the codes and it came up normal but the tranny shop found one of the solenoids not reacting quick enough.

So, after running for 3 years and 7 months with the vb mod and tranny cooler on and one year without the tranny mods the automatic tranny needed rebuilding. I'm curious as to how long other trannies have lived before rebuilding?

 

Dude that has to be some kinda auto SC'd record

 

Lol! That's probably an indication that I've babied the car most of the time (ie. granny-style driving). After all, its my daily driver.

 

Well that's how i drive so i guess we are in the same boat

 

Damn that's pretty impressive without a bulletproofed tranny.

 

I have to agree, I think i have been driving turbo charged for about 1 month. With my auto, ever since I started moding and getting to know the car more I purposely created this habit to slightly let off between shifts or before it shifts(specially 2-3 shift). For example. if i accelerate from a stop at 30% part throttle, and I let the car shift without letting off the gas a bit, you feel how long it takes to shifts 2-3, but if you slightly let off at the shift, the shift happens quicker. Thats probably why I havent had problems with my auto. Letting the auto shift under some power at part throttle without letting off a bit, will defenetly cause alot of slippage and heat build up. What I did, was set my drop resistor to about 50% throttle. ALSO, going at a cruising speed, then suddently flooring it and having the car downshift while putting out alot of power will also destroy the auto, thats how alot of nitrous guy blow it, because they spray while the car is downshifting. Basically, if you wanna keep the auto alive, you either baby it while in part throttle, or you go WOT from a stop. lol no roll racing, unless you hold the gear and no downshifting is involved.

 

yo latin max i need that NRH tranny can you give me some information on it like how much you paid for it and where did you get it!!! HOLLA BACK

 

Rob @ NRH tranny 301-617-2500 tell him I sent you. Cost was around $3500 (if I remember correctly) but just ask him. He makes them with different options.
Gabriel

 

Does he still rebuild trannies for Maximas after he was booted out of his shop?

How did your little problem go last year? I remember talking to you about it and you said Rob was going to fly to TX just to fix your car. How did that go? Obviously well since you are still recommending him.

 

Is it really worth the $3500 though? I mean look at jime, grey99, myself. With no internal transmission modification and not a slip or problem. It all depends on how you drive the car, if you beat on it obviously its going to die, but if you know how to treat it right and not abuse it, it can last for ever.

 

It's worth the $3500 if you can't keep a tranny in tact.

When I talked to him, he quoted me around $2500 shipped. But keep in mind that he didn't have to rebuild the valve body or do a high stall torque converter. All that was included in that price was a simple rebuild for him and a change in final drive.

 

He still is in BIZ. He just sold the shop part to some guy. He just wants to build trannies and have his machine shop.
The tranny may have been $2500... I really don't remember, since it has been like 3 years.

 

Oh cool! That's good to know. How did he stand by his lifetime warranty when he came to fix your problem? That warranty is the only reason I am thinking about going with him.

If he has to rebuild a tranny that has broken, then he will need to rebuild the valve body and torque converter. So the cost for his rebuild I believe was easily over $3300 when you add in shipping.

For my price quote, my tranny wasn't broken. Just a simple rebuild without anything extra.

 

He ended up building me a new tranny and sending it out to me. Instead of coming out, but he came out once before with a small problem that we had before.
So, yes he is still standing behind his tranny 100%. I am having a small electronis problem with my tranny right now that we are trying to work thru. So we will see.
Before this. I went thru 3-4 factory trannies with valve body mod and B&M cooler. Then killed a Level 10 tranny in 3 months, that level 10 said that there was no way and just refunded me my money. SO that is when I went with Rob's tranny. I have had some problems, but he has taken care of all of them up to know.

 

How much whp and torque are you putting down? What do you race ur car in the most? autox, 1/4, street, ?

because the only way i see a built autos going down like that is if the driving style is extremly aggressive (flooring it from a roll letting auto downshift while motor putting out alot of power, etc....) you ever used drop resistor mod on any of your auto's? maybe thats the secret behind all this, since most high power guys with drop resistor havent had any problems with auto at all (very few high power drop resistor auto's though, grey99, jime)

 

Awesome, that's good to know. Rob was very helpful everytime I've spoken with him on the phone.