zMax1996

Where are the spacers placed for best alignment correction when the SC pulley appears to be "to close" to the engine block. In other words to move the SC pulley "further out" from the front of the engine to align with the lower Adjuster and Idler pulleys where do I place the spacers?

1996 Max 5 speed. Stillen Kit/ V2 SC

Thanks

MAXimumHP

iTrader: (7)

To move the pulley away from the motor, put the spacers between the S/C and the mounting plate. To move the pulley towards the engine, put a spacer between the S/C and the pulley itself.

zMax1996

Regarding moving the S/C pulley towards the engine: (1) The distance between the S/C pulley and the 2 top bolts that attach the mounting bracket is minimal. I would guess that allen head bolts would need to be used, requiring a "mod" to the bracket to accept the allen head. Correct?

Also "1" of the above noted "2" bolts appears to be partially covered by the S/C pulley. So an allen wrench "might" not fit into the allen bolt head. Would this be of concern during re-install?

Thanks

chris'smax

iTrader: (3)

i just left those 2 bolts out. That plate isn't going anywhere. It already has 6 bolts attaching it to the timing chain cover.

zMax1996

Well, I guess that would eliminate the rubbing of the belt on those 2 bolt heads when the belt jumps a rib inward. Maybe I could get away with only having "1" bolt (the one on the right). That one could be a "flat/flush" allen head. Maybe!

Thanks for the input.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Is alignment a concern? I thought everything was designed to be aligned. Are you guys talking about when one puts a '95/'98 SC on a '99 (or vise versa) or are there always alignment issues? How do you check for mis-alignment?

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

I put my shims where the red dots are:

slimer

iTrader: (13)

basically when a belt jumps. you look to see which way it shredded. I haven't really had issues because i installed my alternator bolt the opposite way so that it could flex under stress and not cause an alignment problem.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Hmmm, never knew this was an issue. I did have the belt jump one rib in the beginning but I put it back, tightened the tension more than before and I was fine after that. I did always have a collection of fine powder build-up though on the side (front techically) of the engine which I assume is from the belt. :I

zMax1996

Shredded belts due to pulley alignment and inferior Stillen Kit pulley material is a common problem. I have spent over $2000.00 and still have not got it corrected.

I have had top racing mechanics work on my 96 Max and still have belt problems. This has been going on for 2 years now.

I have moved to Las Vegas, NV and I'm in the process of searching out a speed shop to re-install my S/C (removed in Colorado). One clown wanted $1300.00 to install even though the car is already set-up for the S/C.

I live in a condo and have no place to do my own work.

Anyone know of a speed shop in Las Vegas that is familiar with Maxima's?

Thanks

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I would help you out for free if you were closer zMax.

So how do we check for alignment? Drop a plumb bob from the SC pulley????

zMax1996

How to check for alignment?

Initially I expected the use of some sort of measuring gadget. So far all I have found is mechanics using "line of sight." They look and say it seems out of alignment one way or the other. Among the associated problems are (1) belt tension (2) temperature (3) pulley materials leading to erosion of the pulley (4) bearing quality (5) improper seating of bearings in the pulley (6) possible warping of the aluminum bracket (7) bracket "flex" under high load (a theory only), etc.

Go figure. I would have given up long ago except for the fact that I like the Maxima.

zMax
Las Vegas

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I liked mine a lot too - and still gave up on it. But I bought another!
Anyway, good luck with your problem.

zMax1996

I have posted my S/C for sale on the "Maxima For Sale forum." I have not found any speed shops in Vegas that are familiar with the Stillen Kit alignment problem.

If your in Las Vegas in the next few months have a look. I am 1.5 miles from the LV Strip.

Selling price is $1800.00. 18,000 miles on the kit. See more info on other forum.

Thanks

crewchief264

No but I will be coming out in a few months and could have it done in 1.5hrs if everything as far as wiring and what not is done. The install is very very easy!!!!

zMax1996

Coming out as in a vacation or moving here?

The removal took 4 hours non-stop. The removal was done by a vortech distributor who had worked on the car several times (in Colorado). The re-install will likely take 5 hours.

I had not been so concerned about the install as the future up keep / repairs.

Thanks,
zMax1996
Las Vegas

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

I've had some shredding issues since day 1. I have tried shims, etc etc and they usually just make it worse for some damn reason. Soooooo...an engineer friend of mine and I are CAD'ing out designs for cogged pulleys that will fit the Stillen kit. We believe a cogged belt will produce much better results than a 1" 6rib setup. So far we've got it down to a 2" cogged belt. A real man's supercharger belt If we succeed, I'll be posting up the part #'s on pulleys we ended up with but it's a few months out at least.

zMax1996

Interesting!
I "may" be wrong, as I have gone through many ideals regarding the belt problem, but I seem to recall being told that a "cog belt" presented a "gear down-shift" problem. That is, you can't downshift with a cog belt.

Again, I am not sure if it was a cog or V-belt. I know I had the conversation with a Vortech distributor and supercharger / builder specialist.

Have you discussed this downshift situation?

zMax1996

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

First I've heard of it to be honest

pfactor172

I pulled my s/c in and out 2 times today my belt broke last week so I figured I take advantage and put a smaller pulley while it was coming out. Well when I put it together the first time I did not notice I put the belt around and not behind one of the legs on the bracket and as soon I started the car I heard the belt shredding. When I looked to see what was wrong I found my little mistake had to buy a new belt and start all over again. The whole thing took me about 6 hours including going to the parts store twice and a lunch brake. Its much easer the second time. Hopefully I wont be getting any more practice for a while.

crewchief264

i was sayiong 1.5 hours just for say belt replacement, and the like if you need the whole thing I would say 5-6 hours max and I think I could it faster especially if you get the 12-902 holley fuel pump. Reason being we would delete all the crap stillen supplies to up the fuel psi except the fmu.

BTW just finfished my friends S/C Intercooler set up It seems to be working really good and it took I'd say 1 day to complete - the pipes fit great I'll post install pics on my site later.

(I spent one day teaching my buddy how to r and i the s/c)

slimer

iTrader: (13)

it took a couple of us less than 4 hours at the track yesterday. stupid autozone sold me a 5 rib instead of a six and then i had fun with a jumping belt.

Matt_01SE_20th

iTrader: (1)

hey steve, was that the problem with it jumping the alternator pulley? (the 5 rib) or is that why it shredded the first time?

slimer

iTrader: (13)

when we shifted the alternator, it left like a 1mm space between the alternator and the bracket->not good.

I needed a break from the car for a day or two so i will troubleshoot when i get home this evening or tomorrow nite.

thanks again for your help at the track.

zMax1996

My S/C is now for sale on eBay.

If not sold I will keep it setting around and "someday" try again.

zMax
Las Vegas

slimer

iTrader: (13)

if you fly me to vegas, i will install it for you.

zMax1996

Maximum Performance in Las Vegas has installed 2 kits previously. I can get them to install mine.
Problems: It is still uncertain as to what is causing the belt to jump ribs. After 2 years of R&R of the S/C to replace belts I have basically given up on the S/C.

Most likely if I do anything else to modify my Max I will have the engine rebuilt with racing pistons, etc and go with NOS.

I will keep looking in on this forum and maybe someday someone will re-engineer the S/C bracket, pulleys etc so the constant problem of applying "band-aids" will go away.

I also have decided that if I ever have another S/C car the S/C will have to run on a dedicated belt. If the belt goes the car still runs without having to change something out. Vortech GM car kits have this option. Nice set-ups.

Apparenty there is no room on the Maxima to "flip" the S/C around and have a dedicated belt. Also, the kit S/C is "counter-clock wise" rotating.

Thanks for all the replies.

zMax 1996

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

Do you have another car? Drop your Max off with James and I for 2-4 weeks and we'll install your SC and fix all your problems. We're probably 4-5 hours away.

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Ha ha. I was going to say something like that. LOL. Don't give up just yet man. Many, many people have SC's on their max w/o belts jumping. I bet it can be fixed. The shop can't spend too much time on it, because:
A)Time and materials--if it take them 2 days to fix it, at $75 an hour, thats $1200 worth of labor. They know that can't hit you with that, so they would have to charge you $500 and take a loss.
B) Motivation and profitability--After a couple of hours of troubleshooting your car, they're going to move on to work on other people's cars where the work is a slam dunk and are profitable.

Bring it on over. Josh and I will try our best to fix it. All you have to lose is 4 hours of driving time each direction.

BTW, tell us all of your mods. Maybe you'll give us an clue of what is wrong.

James

zMax1996

Thanks for the help offers. I only have 1 car now.

Regarding Mods: Stillen kit with only upgrade BOV, FMU (no impact here) and the 3.33 pulley. I have been fairly certain for a long time that the 3.33 is adding to my problems. The rubbing problem noted in other threads was corrected long ago with a file by a Vortech distributor.

Two years and several thousand dollars plus much theory and experiments is not giving up to soon.

For now I am retreating. I might yet "fight another 'belt battle'" at a later date.

zMax
1996

zMax1996

$100.00 discount to maxima.org members. I will also pay you $40.00 if you pick the S/C up. Just let me know who you are (maxima.org member) if you win the auction.

search for eBay item # 7967699466

Thanks,
zMax1996

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

Ok...so I decided to roll up my sleeves this weekend and get this damn alignment problem ixnayed FINALLY!!!!

I used a combination of a laser leveler and a 90 degree straight edge tool that is made of 1/8" thick steel. Hince, it wont flex or bend easily. First I leveled out the car with 1/4" plywood planks under one tire. For whatever reason, my garage floor is a tad off. Once I got the car level, I used the leveling bubbles on the laser to ensure an uncompromised straight line. I lined up the laser with the crank pulley underneath and slowly rotated it up until the red line drew across the alternator and the S/C pulley. Dammit, wouldn't you know they all lined up to the rib exactly. I knew something HAD to be off so the next test I did was an angle test with the straight edge. I pressed one end of it firmly to the outer edge of the lip on the S/C pulley. Then I rotated it down to the A/C pulley and BAM!. The S/C pulley was at about a 27 degree angle from the A/C pulley. This may be hard to visualize but basically I had to shim the front 5 posts (3 small bolts, 2 large ones) and left the one on the back unshimmed (1 small bolt). I used two washers on each one (bout 1/8"-3/16" spacing total). This brought the front of the pulley away from the engine about that much and now everything seems to be lined up all peachy I also think I was tightening my belts WAY to tight prior to this. I only tightened it up enough the first time to the point it wouldn't slip by hand. Started it up and it squealed a bit. I gave it another full turn and the squeal went away. I could push the belt (between the Crank and A/C) an inch in each direction (approx.) and could rotate no more than 90 degrees easily.

Took her out for a spin and let things get good and warm (bout 25 miles) then boosted full out. Pulled over and everything was perfect. Did that a couple more times, came home, checked it and viola'.

Keep yer fingers crossed for me

BlackCat

iTrader: (6)

Glad to hear that that laser leveler worked well! I should invest in one as well!

zMax1996

Keep us up to date on this:
Now that my S/C is off of my car I have been wondering about the standoffs on the back of the S/C mounting bracket. They do not appear t be perfectly flat. I have been planning to check this out.

The odd thing I have noted is that I have gone for up to 3 months with no problems, then for no obvious reason the belt will jump a rib. Although Those 3 months would be fairly low miles.

Maybe someone will be able to build a Maxima dedicated tool to check for pulley alignment and relative angle. Then sell it and retire to the South Pacific on the profits.

slimer

iTrader: (13)

good luck z

way to go max1man!

i may pick one up too.

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

My issue was the way it was due to this car being in a minor frontender that set it off a tad. Anywho...I've solved the issues with the S/C and have figured out it's not really what I want anymore so it is now sold. I'm converting to a super juice setup..J&S and all. More on that in another forum soon. I will also be getting parts over the next year for a custom turbo setup.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

You went through all that trouble and finally fixed your long-time SC alignment problem this past weekend and then sold the SC on Monday??? What is a 'frontender'? Good job solving the alignment issue!

Max1man

iTrader: (2)

A frontender means she got clipped in the front on the passenger side just enough to "tweak" it off a little bit. I'm certain that was the root of the majority of my issues besides the normal issue with V2. I mean my **** was foul till I fixed it

Just moving on to bigger and better things. I'll be installing an NX 20923 kit in the next week or so along with the GENX2 kit and a remote opener. Simply...the S/C required a **** load more dollars to get it to the better track times I'm seeking. 2.87....injectors....MAF blah blah blah. Juice is more appealing to my sensibilities and unavailable amount of free time to futz in the garage. Plus I wanted an on again off again setup cuz gas prices is getting MAD crazy these days.

zMax1996

Actually S/C vs. NA will get better gas milage if set-up correctly as the engine run more efficiently with supercharging.

I have been giving alot of thought to NOS,
as I also do not have the time / work area to tweak a S/C on a regular basis.

ptatohed

iTrader: (12)

I second that. The decrease in mileage only comes from the heavier foot you develope when you are boosted. I did a few entire-tank 'grandma runs' (not easy!) and I averaged 25 mpg with a mix of hwy and stop&go.