Anyone polish their blower?
#3
I had Vortech do mine. Added 3.5 weeks to my delivery time, but it was worth it.
Bought if from Paul at Avalon Racing, he placed the order with Stillen, Stillen dissassembled it and sent it to Vortech, Vortech polished it, Vortech sent it back to Stillen for reassembly, Stillen sent it to Paul, then it finally was sent to me. Took 5 weeks total from the day I paid for it.
Bought if from Paul at Avalon Racing, he placed the order with Stillen, Stillen dissassembled it and sent it to Vortech, Vortech polished it, Vortech sent it back to Stillen for reassembly, Stillen sent it to Paul, then it finally was sent to me. Took 5 weeks total from the day I paid for it.
#10
This is the best I could do with my caliper. And this was probably 10hours of work. Flap wheel, fine sandpaper, rubbing compound, then polishing compound followed by a coat of clear. I used an electric high speed drill and a dremel
#11
To polish it good you need to sand it. Start with 200,400 ,600 all the way to like 1400,1500 grit. By the time you do that it will start to look real shiny then you can hit it with mothers by hand or with a buffer. There are some pics of my blower that I just sold in this forum. The post says wow v2 2400 the pics are in there towards the bottom it came out really good with that method.
#12
It is possible to achieve excellent result with little money down, but it take time.
I bought all the necessary polishing wheel and compound to polish aluminum, SS, metal cast, plastic, copper etc. from www.caswellplating.com and the result are simply awesome if you follow some basic guideline. I've recently polish my 2k2 Headlight cover, all the scratches are gone and the plastic is very clear and shinning. I use a bench grinder for all my polishing. Caswell sell some motor with extended shaft that are very handy for serious polisher, but again a good bench grinder with 6" wheel will make a great job. For 100$ or less you can get a professional kit that will give you way much better result than sending by hand. How do I know that ? I let you guess.
I bought all the necessary polishing wheel and compound to polish aluminum, SS, metal cast, plastic, copper etc. from www.caswellplating.com and the result are simply awesome if you follow some basic guideline. I've recently polish my 2k2 Headlight cover, all the scratches are gone and the plastic is very clear and shinning. I use a bench grinder for all my polishing. Caswell sell some motor with extended shaft that are very handy for serious polisher, but again a good bench grinder with 6" wheel will make a great job. For 100$ or less you can get a professional kit that will give you way much better result than sending by hand. How do I know that ? I let you guess.
#13
Originally Posted by doublea
It is possible to achieve excellent result with little money down, but it take time.
I bought all the necessary polishing wheel and compound to polish aluminum, SS, metal cast, plastic, copper etc. from www.caswellplating.com and the result are simply awesome if you follow some basic guideline. I've recently polish my 2k2 Headlight cover, all the scratches are gone and the plastic is very clear and shinning. I use a bench grinder for all my polishing. Caswell sell some motor with extended shaft that are very handy for serious polisher, but again a good bench grinder with 6" wheel will make a great job. For 100$ or less you can get a professional kit that will give you way much better result than sending by hand. How do I know that ? I let you guess.
I bought all the necessary polishing wheel and compound to polish aluminum, SS, metal cast, plastic, copper etc. from www.caswellplating.com and the result are simply awesome if you follow some basic guideline. I've recently polish my 2k2 Headlight cover, all the scratches are gone and the plastic is very clear and shinning. I use a bench grinder for all my polishing. Caswell sell some motor with extended shaft that are very handy for serious polisher, but again a good bench grinder with 6" wheel will make a great job. For 100$ or less you can get a professional kit that will give you way much better result than sending by hand. How do I know that ? I let you guess.
#14
Originally Posted by The Wizard
I had Vortech do mine. Added 3.5 weeks to my delivery time, but it was worth it.
Bought if from Paul at Avalon Racing, he placed the order with Stillen, Stillen dissassembled it and sent it to Vortech, Vortech polished it, Vortech sent it back to Stillen for reassembly, Stillen sent it to Paul, then it finally was sent to me. Took 5 weeks total from the day I paid for it.
Bought if from Paul at Avalon Racing, he placed the order with Stillen, Stillen dissassembled it and sent it to Vortech, Vortech polished it, Vortech sent it back to Stillen for reassembly, Stillen sent it to Paul, then it finally was sent to me. Took 5 weeks total from the day I paid for it.
#15
Originally Posted by iansw
Weird - I just asked Vortech for a polished one and they sent it to me in > 5 days.
I bought the whole kit through Paul since his price killed everyone else's, and to avoid paying sales tax since Stllen and Vortech are both in CA.
#16
I bought the whole kit with a V1 blower.
V1 Blower went bad - exchanged for Polished V2.
Now I have the reliability of the V1 Bracket with the "sleeper" quietness of the V2 SQ.
V1 Blower went bad - exchanged for Polished V2.
Now I have the reliability of the V1 Bracket with the "sleeper" quietness of the V2 SQ.
#17
Originally Posted by iansw
I bought the whole kit with a V1 blower.
V1 Blower went bad - exchanged for Polished V2.
Now I have the reliability of the V1 Bracket with the "sleeper" quietness of the V2 SQ.
V1 Blower went bad - exchanged for Polished V2.
Now I have the reliability of the V1 Bracket with the "sleeper" quietness of the V2 SQ.
#20
This morning I went at the blower with 400 grit wetsand paper for 15 minutes and realized I should have put some rubber gloves on! Its starting to look good but definitely needs alot of elbow grease.
#21
something i learned polishing turbo housings. if you use a polishing wheel and clay bar, u want to get as much heat built up as u can withstand. work it up until the metal surface has a slight warmth to it and keep working that area. warmer it gets the cleaner and shinier it will be.
#22
Originally Posted by Broaner
I had mine done at a local polishing shop. I filed the "VORTECH" off and then brought it over to them. It turned out great for $300.
That tranny is from a manual z32 300zx. I don't know if it is a TT or not. Can't tell the difference from a 240mm bellhousing from a 250mm housing.
Sorry guys, this is in reference to his signature
#23
Originally Posted by VE30DE-To4e
That tranny is from a manual z32 300zx. I don't know if it is a TT or not. Can't tell the difference from a 240mm bellhousing from a 250mm housing.
Sorry guys, this is in reference to his signature
Sorry guys, this is in reference to his signature
#26
This is far as I got with hand polishing:
The photo isn't as good in person because of the flash. I haven't found the proper polishing implements yet for the cordless drill. That would take certainly take care of the inner crevices.
The photo isn't as good in person because of the flash. I haven't found the proper polishing implements yet for the cordless drill. That would take certainly take care of the inner crevices.
#27
I just happened to find my Dremel catalogue and found the polishing attachments. Any particular pieces I should get to complete the job? How about the polishing compound that they offer? Is that any good?
#28
Originally Posted by The Wizard
Now, I would like to compare a V1 to my V2.
#29
Checked the Dremel website and found out that their #421 polish is really jeweler's rouge.
"When polishing precious metals such as gold and silver, use this bit with the #421 polishing compound (jeweler’s rouge) and apply lightly."
I'm going to try out the 520 polishing wheel as well:
"Use for light stock removal and high luster polishing of metals and hard plastics. The wheel is impregnated with a silicon carbide abrasive and lubricant, eliminating the need for polishing compound."
"When polishing precious metals such as gold and silver, use this bit with the #421 polishing compound (jeweler’s rouge) and apply lightly."
I'm going to try out the 520 polishing wheel as well:
"Use for light stock removal and high luster polishing of metals and hard plastics. The wheel is impregnated with a silicon carbide abrasive and lubricant, eliminating the need for polishing compound."
#30
damn that dremel tip is gonna take forever. take a trip to your local home depot. they have a drill attachments you can use. not sure the number, but i use the dark clay first then the white clay to make it bling.
#40
Originally Posted by Broaner
Looks great guys. I decided there was no way I'd be satisfied unless I had a pro do it... And I'm still not satisfied.