where is everyone getting their blowers cheap other than ebay?

 

http://www.superchargersonline.com/p...-Trim_headunit

 

any idea what the real prices are on those? sense they say too low to advertise?

 

In that link, the blower alone is $1800/$1900 but you said:

"Starter kit will only require you to purchase: Feed line, Fittings + Couplings, Vortech Blower, Charge pipe 3" or 2.5", FMU (Vortech or Cartech), Fuel pump (Walbro In-tank), BOV (any type you want). All these can be had for < $1200 including blower"

Less than $1200 with a blower doesn't sound very realistic. It also seems like you simplified it and it might actually be difficult finding some of the parts. Ex. The oil pan T adaptor; constructing an intake tube with the proper bends, elbows, MAF adaptor, T air bypass adaptor, air temp sensor adaptor, etc.; fuse box relocation, the cam sensor retainer, coolant relocation bracket; etc., etc. No?

 

You have to remember thats a Brand NEW Vortech Blower. If your build this kit with my plate and a BRAND NEW blower then you will come out about even maybe alittle less than what Stillen was selling the kits for.
I said "For people building there kit on a budget, you can easily get a blower off of ebay, and build a kit like that" you dont neccesarily need a Brand Spanking new blower

As for all the other parts, you dont even need half of them.
#1) Cam sensor retainer--guys on this board arent even running with a retainer, me including.
#2) Fuse box reloactor--I dont have one...simply unhook the fuse box, bring it towards the shock tower a bit, drill a new hole and your done,
#3) Charge pipe--A charge pipe can eaily be made with $30 24" tube from ASP racing, a few couplings to make it work and theres your charge pipe. 3" which is better than what Stillen was offering. The bends really dont matter...you need a 90 off of the blower, Obviously, then a 45 up to the charge pipe...then a 45 to the MAF adapotor, and a pipe bending around to get to the TB...
#4) MAF adaptor--A dime a dozon on the .org...I see them every single day !!!
#5) Oil Pan T adaptor--Summit racing offers that and feed lines
#6) Coolant relocation Braket--Can easily be relocated anywhere in the engine bay with some thinking

I understand your concern for people building these kits from scratch, and of course its not going to be EASY. Im making the plates, witch I think is way more than Half the battle, and I think alot of people on here will agree. Without a Plate your shi* out of luck. Guys can buy this plate and totally fab their own kit, relocate the charge pipe, anything they want to do, its up to them.

These plate kits will allow people to do a supercharger kit, withiin reason, on a budget of $2200-$2600 easily and have a 100% reliable kit for a daily driver

Any other questions, Im up for answers.

-matt

 

I just sold my V1 for $650 and bought a V2 for around $800. New blowers are totally not worth it, especially when a rebuild is a measly $325.

 

Thats why this Plate Kit is so worth it. Like I stated before, people can get the V1 Starter Kit and build a kit on a budget of $2200-$2600 and have a really reliable setup..

-matt

 

Matty, I think I can expand on your answers a little. This is mostly from my experience.

If you would like to make your own you can easily cut it out of some sheet metal. Its very easy, but matty's right, you don't really need it.
you don't even need the relocator. You can have mine if you want it. My CAI holds that fuse box in there pretty tight. If you don't want to drill a hole, just let it be wedged in there. It doesn't clank or anything.
there are two ways to do this. Mock it up with pvc and bring it to someone to fabricate it, OR you can just get about 6' of 3" piping and source the correct couplers: 2 90 degree silicone couplers and a 45 degree coupler.

to do both of those, you will have to reclock the blower. Both Stephen Max and Jay25 did a write-up on it. It literally takes 5 minutes.
Make sure you don't get the cheapo ones. Those are bad. The frankencar one seems pretty durable. If you ware really budget conscious, you could do what Julio did when he sold me a faulty Z32 maf...Just cut that part off and use a coupler and a hose clamp. Yuck.
This is probably the hardest to find since the oil pan is BPT. It would be nice to know the correct part numbers to eliminate the trial and error process. I know that I don't use that bend on the other side of the t. I just use a NOS 4ft SS Fuel feed line. It was really inexpensive at a local parts shop. This was after a speed shop made an ss line for me and the seals fell apart. Do yourself a favor and just get the NOS fuel line. If you want to run an oil cooler, you could incorporate this into the initial SC cost.
Mine is. I just got a Moroso catch can and relocated it near the brake booster on the firewall. You have to get some more rubber line, but whatever. Thats cheap.

 

This kit is better then the stillen kit. Not just the pricing but the fact that you buy what you want. I am have a shop here do my piping. Going to run a intercooler which will be black. Here's a guestion do you still here your BOV when you recirculate to non charged side. Trying to go sleeper. Guages won't be in the pillar.

 

Understood, but his question was where else other than e-bay can blowers be found cheap? And you responded with a link to $1800. Just clarifying.

You're right, things like the cam retainer and fuse relocation and coolant bottle are not needed. I still think it will be challenging to recreate an entire 2.5" or 3" intake pipe from SC outlet to TB inlet, but I am sure it is doable. No one has done it yet, right? Because anyone who has upgraded from 2.5" to 3" has only replaced from the SC out to the MAF. Should be interesting to see someone put together an entire kit....

 

Recirculating/bypass valves don't vent air to the atmosphere (like the Blitz SS). And no air to the atmosphere means no psssht sound.

 

When I upgraded my pancake filter from the stock 3" to 4", I took the opportunity to vent my stock Bosch BOV to the atmosphere and I bought a little crankcase filter (the new 4" air filter comes with a 1/2" perforated hole but you don't have to punch it out). I figured this would clean things up a bit under the hood and I figured why recycle heated/boosted air back to the filter? Anyway, point is - the stock Bosch does not make any noise venting to the atmoshpere.

 

I was just giving you a link thats a little cheaper than buying directly from Vortech.

Once you get to past the Mass air flow sensor, your pretty much home free...Past the MAF, that pipe is a peice of a U that was cut. Simply buy a U bend Mandral bend from Stahlheaders.com I think it is, or even ebay, have it cut to size, and use two silicone couplers to attach to the MAF and to the TB...Dont forget to drill a hole and have a metal line welded there for the IACV, a hole for your air temp sensor, and a tiny line for vacum reference.

Once you cut your U, you can probably sell the other side of the U to someone thats doing the same thing you are..split the price

BTW: Keep the questions flowing..this is good

-matt

 

I'm yet to see a blower on ebay. Can someone send me to the link where people post it. Thanks

P.S Matty, u could build my setup any day. Keep up the great job.
Done Just for You Matty!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT

Blkmax2k1 any time...tell me when your ready

-matt

 

Matty, I sent you a PM. I had a couple of questions for you. Thanks again.

 

I replied. Send me any other things that concern you

-matt

 

mine is on the way - cant wait - ill post about it when its installed.

 

Slimer and Wadecarlson's have been shipped. Im awaiting all the other kits to post pics and a final price. Then I will start taking orderes...should be within the week

-matt

 

Can you hear me now..PSSSHT...Good.

 

Hey Matt don't forget about me. Haha.

 

UPS was stupid and didn't have it on site on Friday. I will get it early Monday morning and start taking pics. I picked up some 500 degree paint so I can have a nice low gloss coating.

Remember guys, steel rusts. You will want to do something to keep your plate from rusting. I know that Matty had one nickel coated and I got the uncoated one because I am going to paint it.

I will post pics as soon as I recieve the package.

 

The Nickle Coating that slimer speaks of will run $150 extra and I need two confermed orderes before I go and get that done. The Nickle coated one I have done, is already spoken for

There will be more information about that in the final thread...Few Days !

-matt

 

Matt:
You might mention (unless I'm confused on this) that the nickel coating is, for all intents and purposes, chrome.

 

Nickle Coating is the first step in croaming. To chrome the plate and get a perfect shine, like people would expect, would be far too much money.

-matt

 

If the plate is stainless it can be electroplated. If not I'll powdercoat it. It can't be magnetic or the electroplating will not work. Electroplating makes it really shiney like chrome but withstands better heat. Is the plate magnetic.

 

Highy Interest V1 Starter KIT, PM with Price and details.

Thanks


David

 

You were added to the list and I PMed you

The "Starter Kits" will not be available for a couple weeks until I get the J-Plates made. The first in production will be convertion kits from V2 to V1, then the second wave a few weeks later I will offer a "Full Start Up Kit for the V1"....That will include all bolts for the blower, and plate to motor. For people who dont need the J-Plate or the bolts, (either have them, or can source them on their own) can get the Convertion kit right away.

-matt

 

mine is beeing installed right now and should be done by friday. ill post about how everything went in about a week.

 

i'm very interested in the starter kit. Give me an exact price on the kit and a list of the other parts and approximate cost on the parts. thanks

 

I added you to the list on page one...

The starter kits are still in the works..Im just ordering the bolts now and im waiting for the starter J-Plates from Nissan ($72 from Nissan) eeek

A Starter kit will Include the following:

V1 Starter Kit
-V1 Steel Plate
-V1 Modified Thermostat Housing w/new Thermostat
-Oil Drain Back Plate ---> (Modified Water Pump Cover)
-Idler Pulley
-Full Hardware kit with Bolts for (Plate to Motor) and (Plate to Blower)
**Plate the blower bolts are the hard ones to find and $$**

Starter kit will only require you to purchase: Feed line, Drain Line, Fittings + Couplings, Vortech Blower, Charge pipe 3" or 2.5", FMU (Vortech or Cartech), Fuel pump (Walbro In-tank), BOV (any type you want). All these can be had for < $1200 including blower

-matt

 

matty call me i might be able to help u on the cost of parts. Jason (909) 923-7600

 

Mine looks purty. If I have some time tomorrow, I might get it in. No promises. I may have to wait until Sunday Nite.

 

Steve, do you have a thing for fat naked guys?

 

Well, since I have gained plenty of weight since I stopped swimming professionally, I guess the truffle shuffle has a new meaning for me. If you really must know, dancing fat guys are funny.

 

All the parts are all ordered for all 10 Full kits and I think 8 or so Full Starter kits...I only have 8 or 9 Plates but I can always have more made....the Final thread will be made soon...V1 Convertion Kits will be the first to hit the market, then a few weeks till I get the Drain back plates made, Ill add the V1 Starter Kit to the list with a Updated Price..I have all the prices on paper, I just have to make the final thread

Just wait for the final thread...we're close

-matt

 

For everyone that was interested:

NEW THREAD:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=446126