what clutch should I get to hold the power of a 2K 5spd maxima with V1 S/C kit, CAI, and 2.5 cattman headers, high flow cat, and 2.5" catback, lightweight flywheel, and the smalles pulley---the 2.62" I think???

I also want the pedal to very light, as close as possible in firmness/pressure to stock as I do a lot of stop and go traffic (I live in west LA!!!)...and something that won't destroy my tranny...so something most likely center sprung hub...

 

Clutch net carbon fiber pro with their PP

 

i like my spec stage 3. it'll hold more than enough power for your setup.

 

Clutchnet 6-puck. Grabs like a ****.

 

I don't want the clutch to kill my tranny either...and the puck designs don't last....I want a full disc if possible...even with the 2.62 pulley...I will have a lot of whp but not that much torque even so...

do the clutchnets have a really really stiff pedal?

 

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I wouldnt buy the fiber carbon pro disc again. It does not grab hard enough for me. My act stage 1 grabbed harder. I should have gotten the 6 puck sprung , thats what I will be doing soon. I would go for that, it seems to last from what others have proven

 

what do you mean they won't last? the puck design will last a lot longer than an organic on a boosted engine. the spec stage 3 has a sprung hub also so its has a very light engagement.

rps is supposed to be really good as well. they're a bit more expensive than spec though.

 

it looks like with RPS I can get a full disc sprung hub clutch that will hold all the power I through at it...the pedal might be too stiff though...

I mtcookson...I am just telling you what one of the guys over at RPS told me...and it's not like he was trying to upsell me as the full disc are actually cheaper than their puck clutches...he said they last a lot longer because there is more surface area to take the friction against the flywheel and disperse it across the entire friction disc contact area which is much greater...it's like how a larger rotor can take heat better is how he put it...

 

i don't see how an organic clutch could last longer than a puck (usually ceramic) simply because the ceramic clutches handle heat way better and don't wear down all that fast. if the full disk was made of kevlar i could see it lasting longer but they don't look like kevlar.

 

well I know both RPS and clutch net do have full disc kevlar clutches...

would any material warp my fidanza flywheel any faster?

 

The pressure plate warps the flywheel. I have seen the "stage 1" ACT clutch warp fidanzas.

Clutchnet usually uses an less agressive PP with a more aggressive disk. This is why their 6 puck is divable on the street. A lot of boosted maximas have recommended using them.

 

Ive got 50k miles out of my clutchnet six puck set up and it still had life when I took it out. I was the first to install it and I will be putting a new one in with my new motor. Highly recomended!

 

Spec tage 3 is very ligh on the foot, and if you need one i got an extra one laying around i can send it to you for 305 shipped, they are 311 from the group deals, now this is brand new never been used still in the box.

 

There are two ways to get lots of "holding power" out of a clutch setup. The PP and the friction disk. You can have a less aggressive disk and more aggressive pressure plate, which clamps down harder on the flywheel, or you can have a higher friction disk and a lower pressure plate, which doesn't require as much clamping force because the material it is made of has a higher coefficient of friction (grippier material).

You can sortof envision it like a grinder and a piece of wood (even though you are obviously not trying to grind away at your flywheel of course). You can use a very coarse grinding wheel and not have to press as hard with the wood (simulates high friction, low clamping), or you can use a finer grinding wheel (lower coefficient of friction) and press it harder against the grinder (higher clamping force PP).

 

now I'm torn between the spec stage 2 full kevlar disc that handles up to 395ft/lbs tq, the RPS MAX street full kevlar/ceramic disc that handles up to 475 ft/lbs (it comes with a 2400lb pressure plate which might be a touch to much for me and my left leg in stop and go traffic) and the clutchnet 6 puck which doesn't state tq caps but I am sure it could handle a lot!

the one attractive thing about the spec is that fact that they claim their disc is completely chatter free and they have a lightweight option!

I have a question...when they claim a torque cap, are they generally being conservative or liberal with the #? also, I want something that is chatter free...btw

oh and I feel stupid for asking this but are those tq cap #'s for power at the wheels or the crank? being the fact that it has to hold the power at the flywheel I am would think they meant at the crank...

 

CLutchnet all the way..

The ACT warped my flywheel (over aggressive PP) and the disc looked like this after 1 run at the track on slicks:



The clutchnet has been thorugh many hard runs and still grabs as well as the day I installed it.



My bearings went bad on my tranny recently and I took the clutchnet out while replacing the tranny - still looks brand new. It does grab a little more agressively than the ACT did, but the pedal engagement is WAY smoother.

Also - for pedal feel - get the SS Slave cylinder line. best $25 I ever spent.

 

Is there a place to buy them or do you have to make them yourself?

 

Got it from a Gorup Deal on thsi site - see GD Section.

 

so what's the vote here: RPS or clutchnet...

I just wished I knew what the rating was on the clutchnet PP...what is the disc made of? also, does the clutchnet have any chatter? and is the pedal overly stiff?

iansw...where is that GD? I don't see it in the forums...the only clutch GD is for everything but clutchnet...

if I could get the clutchnet for the price of the RPS I will prolly get the clutchnet...about $325 is what I am looking for shipped...

 

The material is made of ceramic. Call them and I bet they can tell you the tq rating.

My clutchnet chattered and groaned pretty heavily the first 2000 miles - but now the pedal is forceful but not as much as an ACT, and it makes no noise and never ever cahtters.

I vote clutchnet.

 

My clutchnet 6puck sprung hub chatters my teeth out if I don't keep the revs above 2000rpm from a full stop. Not a difficult thing to do, but it is not how I "naturally" drive (I usually start from a stop about 1000-1500rpm) so if I am not making a conscious effort to avoid the chatter it will chatter badly.

I think the clutchnet 6 puck is way more clutch than you are going to need personally. You'll most likely never see more than 350lb-ft, I was told the 6 puck and my ACT 2600 PP is good for 600+ tq. I don't know what rating the clutchnet pp is.

 

wait so do you have the clutchnet disc and the ACT PP? or do you have the whole clutchnet setup?

 

...clutchnet 6 puck disk and act 2600 pp...

 

Again - with the Clutchnet PP and 6-puck disc, I got 0 chatter after break-in period was completed.

 

I'll give each company a call and see what they have to say on the matter...
they are both in CA...

so it sounds like the clutchnet PP is considerably less aggressive which might be much more desireable for me and my left left!

 

My pedal is just a tad stiffer than stock with my ClutchNet PP