Walbro & FMU/FPR Install Questions
08-18-2005, 06:01 AM
#1
Walbro & FMU/FPR Install Questions
Sorry to be a pain but I have more questions about braided hoses since I'm not familiar with them:
I know I'll need -6 AN size hose but how much length should I get?
For the fuel rail fitting that I got from sx7r I can see that the connection is barbed which means a regular fuel line hose but can I use braided hose?
Can I drive around with the Walbro installed first and then install the fmu and fpr on a separate day?
I went to a speed shop after work today to get an idea of what it would cost to install these pieces including the walbro and with labour @ $75/hr they guestimated 5-6 hrs!
I know that it doesn't look that hard to do but since I'm dealing with fuel lines I'm not very comfortable with them. I don't want an engine fire because of my incompetence. On a scale of 1 to 5 where 5 is hardest what would the rating be here? The toughest and scariest job I've ever done was swap out the valve body.
Also I'm having a hard time picturing where the vacuum hoses connect up to once the oem fpr is taken off as the hose from there goes to the 5 connection tee.
I know I'll need -6 AN size hose but how much length should I get?
For the fuel rail fitting that I got from sx7r I can see that the connection is barbed which means a regular fuel line hose but can I use braided hose?
Can I drive around with the Walbro installed first and then install the fmu and fpr on a separate day?
I went to a speed shop after work today to get an idea of what it would cost to install these pieces including the walbro and with labour @ $75/hr they guestimated 5-6 hrs!
I know that it doesn't look that hard to do but since I'm dealing with fuel lines I'm not very comfortable with them. I don't want an engine fire because of my incompetence. On a scale of 1 to 5 where 5 is hardest what would the rating be here? The toughest and scariest job I've ever done was swap out the valve body.
Also I'm having a hard time picturing where the vacuum hoses connect up to once the oem fpr is taken off as the hose from there goes to the 5 connection tee.
08-18-2005, 07:23 AM
#3
Originally Posted by Brushedpewter
Once you've lossen the clamps on the fuel lines in the engine bay do not start the car. And have something to wipe fuel off.
08-18-2005, 08:29 AM
#8
Originally Posted by LatinMax
I have the write-up for this on my site. It is not hard at all. I made the instructions very easy.
And I just found StephenMax's statement about installing the Walbro from Sept.,2004:
"
The additional fuel pressure from the Walbro pump will only help to ensure a little extra richness at WOT, and the fuel pressure will not be so high at idle or cruising that your ecu can't compensate. I installed my Walbro pump several months before installing my SC kit, and I had absolutely no problems with the extra 6 psi or so of fuel pressure."
08-18-2005, 09:46 AM
#10
Originally Posted by wunfstmax
i thought the walbro was an inline pump instead of intank?
08-18-2005, 11:59 AM
#13
Originally Posted by TurboMax67
I haven't heard that since I took 11th grade english.
I think that was when I first read it. I was wondering if it was still part of high school English curriculum.
08-19-2005, 07:48 AM
#14
I'm trying to figure out how things will go together here before I do any work. Correct me if I'm wrong here as I was trying to follow the flow route.
Here's a close up pic of the OEM FPR.
See where that rubber hose goes to at the top of the pic? I've read that the hose is the fuel return line.
I've looked at the fuel rail last night and can see the fuel line running from the fuel filter to the FMU and from there it goes to an array of metal piping underneath the throttle body, exits out to a fuel line to the fuel rail for the front bank of injectors. The fuel loops round to the rear bank of injectors and exits through the FPR and then back to the gas tank?
So, if I replace the FPR with sx7r's adaptor, that should be fine if I just leave the other end of that hose connected at the hose clamp and attach it to the adaptor, right? Hmmm, after looking at the pic again I think I need a slightly longer hose. For that adaptor, can I use braided hose or should I be using regular fuel line hose?
As for the vacuum hose, here's a pic of the vacuum hose coming off of the FPr into the 5-Tee connection:
Since the FPR will be gone I'm assuming that the vacuum hose from replacement FPR will hook up with the Tee connection, right? And the vacuum hose that went to the top of the Vortech disc now goes to the Cartech?
Thanks for your help, guys!
Here's a close up pic of the OEM FPR.
See where that rubber hose goes to at the top of the pic? I've read that the hose is the fuel return line.
I've looked at the fuel rail last night and can see the fuel line running from the fuel filter to the FMU and from there it goes to an array of metal piping underneath the throttle body, exits out to a fuel line to the fuel rail for the front bank of injectors. The fuel loops round to the rear bank of injectors and exits through the FPR and then back to the gas tank?
So, if I replace the FPR with sx7r's adaptor, that should be fine if I just leave the other end of that hose connected at the hose clamp and attach it to the adaptor, right? Hmmm, after looking at the pic again I think I need a slightly longer hose. For that adaptor, can I use braided hose or should I be using regular fuel line hose?
As for the vacuum hose, here's a pic of the vacuum hose coming off of the FPr into the 5-Tee connection:
Since the FPR will be gone I'm assuming that the vacuum hose from replacement FPR will hook up with the Tee connection, right? And the vacuum hose that went to the top of the Vortech disc now goes to the Cartech?
Thanks for your help, guys!
08-19-2005, 09:50 AM
#16
The hose coming from the fpr is the fuel return line. It goes to the cluster of brass fuel and vacuum pipes, and from there to your fmu. I don't think you are going to have enough slack in the hose to connect it directly to the fitting. What I did was run a fuel line directly from the fitting to my adjustable fpr, bypassing the brass tubes.
If you are using a Cartech fmu, you will also need an aftermarket fpr. You can't set base fuel pressure with the Cartech fmu.
The vacuum line to the oem fpr should go to whatever new fpr you get. Since the Cartech fmu has a boost bleeder, you want to provide it with its own dedicated vacuum line. If you tee off the vacuum line going to the fpr, then the fpr won't see the full manifold pressure when boosting. This may not be a problem since you are going to be doing some tuning anyway, but I like to keep the waters as unmuddied as possible.
Whatever you do, don't tee the Cartech vacuum line into the boost gauge line. If you do, your boost gauge won't register all the boost you're making.
If you are using a Cartech fmu, you will also need an aftermarket fpr. You can't set base fuel pressure with the Cartech fmu.
The vacuum line to the oem fpr should go to whatever new fpr you get. Since the Cartech fmu has a boost bleeder, you want to provide it with its own dedicated vacuum line. If you tee off the vacuum line going to the fpr, then the fpr won't see the full manifold pressure when boosting. This may not be a problem since you are going to be doing some tuning anyway, but I like to keep the waters as unmuddied as possible.
Whatever you do, don't tee the Cartech vacuum line into the boost gauge line. If you do, your boost gauge won't register all the boost you're making.
08-19-2005, 09:59 AM
#17
Thanks Stephen for your reply!
Bypassing crossed my mind too, but if I was to bypass that cluster of brass tubes do I close off the open ends, and if so, with what? Or is it a straight connection?
I have the A1000-6 Aeromotive fpr:
I picked up the fuel rail adaptor from Thomas but now I just searched and found that I'll need a 45 degree swivel hose end to clear the throttle body.
Bypassing crossed my mind too, but if I was to bypass that cluster of brass tubes do I close off the open ends, and if so, with what? Or is it a straight connection?
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
The hose coming from the fpr is the fuel return line. It goes to the cluster of brass fuel and vacuum pipes, and from there to your fmu. I don't think you are going to have enough slack in the hose to connect it directly to the fitting. What I did was run a fuel line directly from the fitting to my adjustable fpr, bypassing the brass tubes.
If you are using a Cartech fmu, you will also need an aftermarket fpr. You can't set base fuel pressure with the Cartech fmu.
The vacuum line to the oem fpr should go to whatever new fpr you get. Since the Cartech fmu has a boost bleeder, you want to provide it with its own dedicated vacuum line. If you tee off the vacuum line going to the fpr, then the fpr won't see the full manifold pressure when boosting. This may not be a problem since you are going to be doing some tuning anyway, but I like to keep the waters as unmuddied as possible.
Whatever you do, don't tee the Cartech vacuum line into the boost gauge line. If you do, your boost gauge won't register all the boost you're making.
If you are using a Cartech fmu, you will also need an aftermarket fpr. You can't set base fuel pressure with the Cartech fmu.
The vacuum line to the oem fpr should go to whatever new fpr you get. Since the Cartech fmu has a boost bleeder, you want to provide it with its own dedicated vacuum line. If you tee off the vacuum line going to the fpr, then the fpr won't see the full manifold pressure when boosting. This may not be a problem since you are going to be doing some tuning anyway, but I like to keep the waters as unmuddied as possible.
Whatever you do, don't tee the Cartech vacuum line into the boost gauge line. If you do, your boost gauge won't register all the boost you're making.
I picked up the fuel rail adaptor from Thomas but now I just searched and found that I'll need a 45 degree swivel hose end to clear the throttle body.
08-19-2005, 10:09 AM
#19
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I just left them open. It will just be a superfluous short length of brass tube, so no need to close it off.
Now about the dedicated vacuum source for the Cartech....where would be the best place to tap in?
I've collected all of the parts below, except #11 & #12:
I'm guessing that #7 takes a regular fuel hose and not a braided hose?
08-19-2005, 10:15 AM
#20
I drilled the IM just behind the throttle body and press fit in a brass hose nipple.
You could try teeing into the vacuum hoses going to the egr or evap solenoids. I believe they won't leak boost pressure, and it doesn't matter what they do as far as the Cartech is concerned at partial throttle.
You could try teeing into the vacuum hoses going to the egr or evap solenoids. I believe they won't leak boost pressure, and it doesn't matter what they do as far as the Cartech is concerned at partial throttle.
08-19-2005, 01:41 PM
#24
Originally Posted by BlackCat
I looked at the part that sx7r sent me and its a barbed end, not a threaded end. Pardon my noob question but I take it that its for a rubber hose?
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
I drilled the IM just behind the throttle body and press fit in a brass hose nipple.
You could try teeing into the vacuum hoses going to the egr or evap solenoids. I believe they won't leak boost pressure, and it doesn't matter what they do as far as the Cartech is concerned at partial throttle.
You could try teeing into the vacuum hoses going to the egr or evap solenoids. I believe they won't leak boost pressure, and it doesn't matter what they do as far as the Cartech is concerned at partial throttle.
Would you suggest that?
08-19-2005, 01:55 PM
#25
Originally Posted by BlackCat
I looked at the part that sx7r sent me and its a barbed end, not a threaded end. Pardon my noob question but I take it that its for a rubber hose?
Originally Posted by LatinMax
Yes
I've been all over the Russell Performance website to get some connection answers and Twist-Lok hose may be the answer here.
08-20-2005, 06:14 AM
#26
Originally Posted by BlackCat
If that is the case isn't it safer to stick with braided hose?
I've been all over the Russell Performance website to get some connection answers and Twist-Lok hose may be the answer here.
I've been all over the Russell Performance website to get some connection answers and Twist-Lok hose may be the answer here.
08-23-2005, 01:47 PM
#30
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
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Posts: 10,166
BlackCat I sent you a PM
Isnt it ok to just have a T off the of the stock FPR vaccum source and use that for everything ?? FPR, FMU, BOV, canister for MEVI ?? thats how i have mine setup minus the FMU of course
Why use that red line for vac source ??
-matt
Originally Posted by BlackCat
Thank you, Stephen. You're the man! 
Why use that red line for vac source ??
-matt
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