Good call.

Only problem is having affordable access to a dyno, plus the time to spend on tuning everything. If you don't have plenty of both of those, a standalone is a huge waste of money.

 

I'm sure you are speaking from a vast storehouse of personal experience. Tell us what you've accomplished.

 

Coming up with fuel and timing maps FROM SCRATCH isn't something i think 99.9% of the people on this forum would be prepared to do. Would you be?

 

dood- Im talking about tilly, im sure he has access or skills to street tune.

stephen- a 5 speed swap in my 3rd gen. But I do help my buddy from time to time on his 3 rotor rx7, and talk about all that kind of stuff. I do plan to do alot though, something along the lines of a VQ 240 w/standalone, and turbo'd, or a 2 rotor powered 240 or maybe just an rx7. But Im not an idiot I think before I post.

nismology- Im sure tilly could make it work though, he isnt exactly like the 99.9% of the forum you talk about this. Sure if it was any one else I would be as sure they could do it right, but with as much as Ive read about what hes done I didnt think it'd be the end of the world to him. After he got the inital map set, he could then sell that to other VQ owners. heck he could probably modify a VQ35 map since its half of one any way.

This was for tilly guys, Id like to know if he has the resources and time to get a standalone to work, or if he just had all that stuff already so it was pretty much free. Im really wondering why you guys spend all that money on the JWT stuff when a stand alone is so much more tuneable.

Any way thats called out of the box thinking, thats how cool stuff gets done.

~Alex

 

1. Mechanical work and getting a standalone to work properly are 2 EXTREMELY different things.

2. Wiring up a standalone and getting it to work properly are 2 EXTREMELY different things.

You get the point......


I just don't like your whole "you people are stupid for not doing blah blah blah" attitude. If that's the case, show us how it's done.

 

I dont know if there is any standalone that works with our Crank REF sensor. I had to send the scopes in just to get it to work for a piggyback.

 

WTF are you talking about this is a thread on my motor im building not wiring crap. Also if i got 1 standalone then that would mean i would need 3 one for each of the maximas. The JWT program i have is way easier to deal with at this point in time for me.

 

Is this beast almost done? I can't wait to see the results.
What clutch/flywheel combo do you use?

 

Stock 2k2 setup with 6kmiles i know its not gonna hold im tryin too find something before i put it back in.

 

Random thought... Has anyone tried a Z clutch on the Max?

 

Are you sure it's all that better?

 

I'd assume he doesn't mean the stock clutch...if the Z clutch would fit that would allow for more choices in aftermarket units which the 2k2+ maxima doesn't have

 

Actually I was talking about the stock Z clutch. It's made to hold a lot more power than the 2k2's clutch, and it's made to hold it in a car with more weight and wider tires than Tilley's '99, so I figured it might be a good cheap alternative.

But that aftermarket idea is probably a better one.

 

yeah, for the power Tilley is aiming for though, probably an aftermarket unit would be necessary right off the bat

 

I lost bidding on a tilton twin disc yesterday

 

lol at the standalone being as easy as just hooking up some wires! lots to learn bro, lots to learn.

 

Im sorry I didnt mean it that way, Im just wondering why I havn't seen any max guys running a standalone. I donno I guess thats not a big deal to me as Im good with wiring and diagrams and such. Got to keep in mind its not as easy for every one...

Either way I cant wait to see this! Going to be some crazy power!

I probably need to read the thread again but what headgaskets and rings do you use? I remember reading your last engine had blow by or something? any way good luck!

~Alex

 

For the third time, it's not about the wiring, man. It's about the time, effort, and expertise to TUNE a standalone. You have to get the thing on a dyno and build optimal fuel and ignition maps FROM SCRATCH, taking into account a lot of variables. I'll let someone more knowledgeable chime in if they feel it's necessary, but the point is that it takes a lot more than you think to get it working.

EDIT: I wrote this big explanation accusing you of getting your terminology wrong because I totally missed the distinction between "blow-by" and "blow-through". So here it is, even though blow-through was totally not what you were talking about.

It doesn't have to do with head gaskets and rings. It's when your cams have too much overlap -- i.e. the intake and exhaust cams open at the same time for too long. Overlap is good for high-end power in a naturally aspirated engine since it's necessary to keep the air moving, which is why aftermarket cams for NA engines tend to increase it. But in a turbocharged or supercharged car, you're already forcing air into the cylinder. So overlap is not only unnecessary, but also sometimes counterproductive since it can actually allow air and fuel to be forced out of the cylinder before it can be used in combustion.

 

Blow-by past the rings is what the old motor had.

 

I stand corrected.

That was a hell of an explanation for nothing, wasn't it?

 

Just go back and edit the blow by to: blow through!):

 

Good call.

 

Every motor has SOME blow-by past the rings, new or otherwise. Excessive blow-by is another thing altogether.

 

Um, yes. Your an idiot.

 

Tilly are you taking pictures as go on converting your engine?
Gonna dyno before you turbo it?

How much you spent into the convertsion,

Looking into it but trying to see if someone else has done it..

On small step for man, One Giant Leap for Maxima.

 

I need to come see this, Ive never been in a boosted max.

 

I doubt he'll dyno it NA considering it is already a turbo car and the fact that it will be a low compression motor... it would probably make about the same power as a stock VQ30 would.

 

It would still be nice to see an NA dyno, though. Just to see what kind of numbers it's making. Yes it's already a turbo car, but he doesn't HAVE to install the turbo right away. He probably will, though, considering that it's probably easier for him now with the engine out...

 

He'd basically have to uninstall everything turbo related, then install all the NA parts, then uninstall all the NA parts, and reinstall the turbo parts. Sounds like alot of work to me to get a dyno number that we know will be somewhat pointless since it's a low compression motor that no one would ever bother with for NA. Maybe he's willing to do it though.

 

Does he already have all the turbo parts on the engine? Did I miss that post?

 

Yes, the car was already turbo'd before.

 

His car is one of the oldest turbo cars on the .org...

It's not parts that are on the engine so much, though those would be an issue to some extent (injectors, FPR if he has one, etc) its things like the ECU, intercooler and piping, etc. Installation (or uninstallation) of a turbo kit takes days. If I were in his shoes I wouldn't dedicate days to dynotesting a pointless NA setup.

 

well 3.2 is running....started boosting it yesterday. Its takin 12psi with no signs of hesitation, still need too tune it cause its running rich. It revs soo fast with the titanium valves, and the cams sound realy nice...

 

NAICE....

can't wait to see your track times.