i finally went out and took mardigras advice after blowing 3 motors within a yr. i know the ultimate fix is proper tuning and equipment but in the meanwhile i hope this keeps me running for a while. i installed it over the weekend and will start testing it out shortly. maybe now i can keep up without blowing lol.

 

"maybe now i can keep it up without blowing?"

is that wut u just said? ure nasty cmax, shame on u , lol

by the way, u looked like u had everything in order with the j n s, nice job

 

damn 3 motors

 

Sh*t, I'm buying mine today - and I only have one engine destroyed this year. Of course, first I gotta go to KC on Wednesday and race the 50-shot plus 75-shot combo I was just out testing tonight on the new engine and VLSD auto tranny.

Plugs look good and you sure can get to 110 MPH quick!

Woops - wrong forum!

 

yes three freakin motors. the last one i blew going to e town on nissan day in june. the first one was with meccanoble in springvalley last sept, even though i went out like the king after thrashing a sr4t i had to get towed home. but this is the test for sure lets see what J&S got for me.

 

good sh*t mine comes today i hope, at least thats what john at j&s said

 

he may take a while to make it because he makes them to order, but if he says its on its way its coming. pawn the install isnt that bad if you need help let me know.

 

aight cool....he gave me the tracking # and its coming today. its goin in as soon as i get it

 

i remember the day u blew it racing the srt-4...

 

hey what up liqid, yeh that was a good night put a lot of holes in my bite lol, thanks to mecca. well its been two more since then coming off my third right now and we will see if the J&S helps. hopefully i can get some springvalley runs in before it gets to cold.

 

What is John contact info. I have the J&S and just blew 4 coil packs I don't know if I neededto diode the J&S when I installed it or what.

 

C MAX,

What is your fuel setup? What kind of AFC are you using?

The J&S will *HELP* save your motor, but not if the tuning isn't decent.

 

could i iuse the js to my 3.5 swap i want to tune my car

 

It only helps avoid detonation.

 

john J&S: 714-534-6975

 

I just got mine too. Should I install it before my turbo install or should I wait? I think i should just so there is less to troubleshoot if something were to come up later on.

Also are the ignition coil wires the same location and color as a 96 and 98?

 

yes you did need to diode it. he made a new diode set up that is neat,how old is your kit cause he said he changed up from the old set up. his # is 714-534-6975

 

latinmax im running jwt program with walbro fuel pump and vortech fmu. my base tune is very conservative for the s/c its the nitrous that the problem begins. of course i wont run out like a fool thinking i cant blow but it allows me to monitor the detonation so i can eventually tune it properly. jcymax should definitley wait till after the turbo install because thee is some slight tuning on the J&S that is based off of boost. the color and location seems to be correct. i have a 97 and it matched off a 96 schematic perfectly.

 

where are your ***** set at? i just want to use them as a baseline when i dyno it. 15 psi here i come!

 

for now john told me to set them at 12:OO and as i test work from there. unfortunatley i cant really drive the car yet till i get it registered next week, right now i just run up and down my block to test it.

 

aight thats cool i should be strapping her up to the dyno this thurs

 

cool let me know what happens, good luck.

 

yo if u head up to springvalley, give me a call and ill drag mecca and gt28rs jetta that would like to run u.
will---2019277385

 

hey do you get a 0201 and 0304 code????? i think the j&S did this and i didnt ever get a misfire code.

0201
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0201 indicates a problem with the ignition coil and power transistor. The ignition signal from the Engine Control Module is sent to and amplified by the power transistor. The power transistor turns on and off the ignition coil primary circuit. This on-off operation induces the proper high voltage in the coil secondary circuit.

The malfunction is detected when the ignition signal in the primary circuit is not entered during engine cranking or running.

The items to check include
- Harness or connectors (the ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
- Power transistor unit built into ignition coil
- Condenser
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
- Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF) circuit

A misfire on any individual cylinder should set a code, and a problem with the CPS should also set a code.

I would have expected to see DTC 0201 along with one of the following DTCs.
0407 - Crankshaft Position Sensor (REF)
0608 - Cylinder 1 misfire
0607 - Cylinder 2 misfire
0606 - Cylinder 3 misfire
0605 - Cylinder 4 misfire
0604 - Cylinder 5 misfire
0603 - Cylinder 6 misfire

You didn't get one of these "companion" DTCs, and that is puzzling. Maybe one of them will show up in the next few days.

0304
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).

This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS

The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.

1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.

2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.

3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.

The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 12mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.

Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad. However, a KS which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good.

 

maybe your settings are too sensitive? i havent gotten any codes yet, but it seems like its overly sensitive that why its throwing the 0304 code. its detecting too much knock or the sensor could actually be going bad. the 0201 code seems like the J&S was trying to do its job, by shutting down the coil for longer than normal because the setting could be reading constant detonation.

 

The 0201 code occured on the first batch (group buy). The J&S unit didn't feed back the correct value (for correct operation) to the computer to not set off a "coil problem"... No harm was done but it did set off that error code. We/he fixed it by using a few resistors. John was suppose to "fix" that for the subsequent models he was going to make...

 

Actually it was blowing the coil packs also. I blew 4 of my coil packs and he is redoing my J&S as I type this. I should get it back this week.
He said that it had the wrong drivers.

 

The real early "editions" did that... mine has been running fine for a few years now (with just the resistor fix).

 

Did you have to add the resitors or did John add them to the unit?
I ask as John is ending me mine back this week and I am wondering if I need to add the resistors, before I put it back in.

 

i just got mine from john this month it brand spanking new ...wtf??? i guess i gotta see if i have blown coils

 

did you get the little black box with the jumpers, thats the new one with the diodes built in.

 

yep i got the waste spark jumper box

 

I arranged to drive to him so he could diagnose the 0201 problem. He determined that it was just not feeding back the correct values to the ECM. Remember that the J&S intercepts the signal to the coil packs and "modifies" them. We just had to add a resistor to each channel wiring. There was no modification inside the J&S unit itself.

 

great info, at least if it happens to me i know where to start. but i believed he solved that problem with the new box i hope.

 

does any of your cars spudder at low rpm????

 

Aside from wasted spark mode... the car should idle and drive like stock. The unit shouldn't even activate (retard) unless the RPM is > 1750 or so and pressure > 0.

 

mines is running fine too.

 

it bogs and spudders @ partial throttle at 1600 rpm as soon as its in the 2k rpm its fine

 

this is what i suggest to isolate the problem. from the black box reconnect the ignition wires to normal state and see if problem still exists. if it does then that eliminates J&S. maybe you have a vacuum leak of some sort or maybe the connections from the ignition wires maybe loose.

 

i did that and i suspect the black box