What Motor Mounts ??
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
What Motor Mounts ??
Alright well about 3 years ago I did the mounts on my car. I bought brand new Nissan mounts, busted the bubble of gel they put in them, taped them up and added the Poly that I bought from an online site. I did everything properly, let them sit long enough to dry and they looked GREAT..About 6 months later the inserted Poly stuff i added fell out of the mount. Im not sure if all of it fell out, or jsut the edges.... So I think my rear mount is busted completely, cant see it, and my front is on its way out...there is alittle poly still in the mount... All that has to happen is the poly fall out, and the mounts are blown
What are my options now. ?? Im thinking about doing a DEK swap in the spring time and I want good strong mounts...Ive heard mixed reviews on the Place Racing Mounts...some say there too stiff...I could do the Poly again but they may just fall apart again..
The DEK idea is still jsut a myth. Not sure if im sure yet..I do have 137k on this motor, but the motor feels fine, doesnt burn a drop of oil...nothing is wrong with the engine...i think I just want a project
I found a DEK motor with 12K miles, 5 min from my house
-matt
What are my options now. ?? Im thinking about doing a DEK swap in the spring time and I want good strong mounts...Ive heard mixed reviews on the Place Racing Mounts...some say there too stiff...I could do the Poly again but they may just fall apart again..
The DEK idea is still jsut a myth. Not sure if im sure yet..I do have 137k on this motor, but the motor feels fine, doesnt burn a drop of oil...nothing is wrong with the engine...i think I just want a project
I found a DEK motor with 12K miles, 5 min from my house-matt
I'm quite happy with the ES mounts. Nice and solid but not overly harsh and according to Brian Catts they stand up to the heat from my headers better than the PR would have (the headers being only 1/4" away all the time).
MikeD bought mine because he had a shop local to him that installed them in the stock mounts (they are just inserts) for pretty cheap, not sure where he got them. Might have been cattman. I just paid him cash when I came out there to pick them up.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
MikeD bought mine because he had a shop local to him that installed them in the stock mounts (they are just inserts) for pretty cheap, not sure where he got them. Might have been cattman. I just paid him cash when I came out there to pick them up.
www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm
Nothing but good things to say about my ES MMs. They really don't shake much at idle. Nothing too bad unless there is something wrong.
Nothing but good things to say about my ES MMs. They really don't shake much at idle. Nothing too bad unless there is something wrong.
Go with pencil erasers...kidding, this post just brought back memories of that guy.
PR's aren't as stiff as some people say, I've got them and the vibration isn't bad. The big injectors and lumpy idle contribute more to the shaking in my car than the PR mounts did. But that's a moot point now I think because PR went out of business.
PR's aren't as stiff as some people say, I've got them and the vibration isn't bad. The big injectors and lumpy idle contribute more to the shaking in my car than the PR mounts did. But that's a moot point now I think because PR went out of business.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
Those mounts just slip in and your done ?? that mounts Im guessing need to come off of the car...
$80 aint bad. Is it ok if the bubble in my mounts are busted already
-matt
$80 aint bad. Is it ok if the bubble in my mounts are busted already
-matt
I didn't know motor mounts "break in" at all? How long does this process supposedly take? I don't have many miles on mine but I know I30tMikeD has had his since like March and he daily drives the car.
Originally Posted by matty
Those mounts just slip in and your done ?? that mounts Im guessing need to come off of the car...
$80 aint bad. Is it ok if the bubble in my mounts are busted already
-matt
$80 aint bad. Is it ok if the bubble in my mounts are busted already
-matt
The stock ones have to be pressed out. The ES ones can be forced in with a lot of lube, etc. supposedly, but getting a shop to press out, press in is the best thing to do. The side MMs don't make as much of a difference and make the car shake much more.
They do get somewhat softer as they break in. They did not kill ALL of my wheel hop, but they still make a drastic difference. Since I got the traction bars I am set. My wheels will just spin in place if I launch too hard. Very easy to control and react in comparision to stock mushing suspension. Now all I need is a quality LSD and probably a net set of tires since mine are already getting low on tread.
I would almost prefer the PR way of being "Too stiff" when you install and then after the break in still be very aggressive, but the ES ones are still fine for daily driver or race car IMO. I think some of it is that they don't shake as much as people would think (rougher |= better) and that they didn't cure all of the wheel hop issue.
They do get somewhat softer as they break in. They did not kill ALL of my wheel hop, but they still make a drastic difference. Since I got the traction bars I am set. My wheels will just spin in place if I launch too hard. Very easy to control and react in comparision to stock mushing suspension. Now all I need is a quality LSD and probably a net set of tires since mine are already getting low on tread.
I would almost prefer the PR way of being "Too stiff" when you install and then after the break in still be very aggressive, but the ES ones are still fine for daily driver or race car IMO. I think some of it is that they don't shake as much as people would think (rougher |= better) and that they didn't cure all of the wheel hop issue.
A good place to buy is suspension restoration, a little cheaper than Cattman IIRC.
I have no issues with the ES mounts and vibration. With all the things done to my car it still idles very smooth.
Pressing the old ones out and the ES mounts in is not a real easy job. I had a shop quote me $30 because they though it would be easy. They stuck to their quote and only charged my $30....but said they would never do a set again for less than $70. I guess they are a PITA.
I have no issues with the ES mounts and vibration. With all the things done to my car it still idles very smooth.
Pressing the old ones out and the ES mounts in is not a real easy job. I had a shop quote me $30 because they though it would be easy. They stuck to their quote and only charged my $30....but said they would never do a set again for less than $70. I guess they are a PITA.
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
A good place to buy is suspension restoration, a little cheaper than Cattman IIRC.
I have no issues with the ES mounts and vibration. With all the things done to my car it still idles very smooth.
Pressing the old ones out and the ES mounts in is not a real easy job. I had a shop quote me $30 because they though it would be easy. They stuck to their quote and only charged my $30....but said they would never do a set again for less than $70. I guess they are a PITA.
I have no issues with the ES mounts and vibration. With all the things done to my car it still idles very smooth.
Pressing the old ones out and the ES mounts in is not a real easy job. I had a shop quote me $30 because they though it would be easy. They stuck to their quote and only charged my $30....but said they would never do a set again for less than $70. I guess they are a PITA.
yeah, I did mine myself along with the help of a friend that worked at shop with a hyadraulic press, we pressed the old rubber out no problem, but the part that was the pain was getting the metal ring out...that was a real bi%ch. We finally got them out by hammering a punch into the access hole on the sides of the mounts to get them to pop out some, then we drove big screw divers down the side of them and finally were able to push/pry them out.
Well I got ES on my 03,and 95 turbo,the mount make a great different,the motor don't vibrate that bad like other people discribe,it's just more like a 4 cyclender honda with A/C on at idle,if your know what I mean,if you give it a little gas at idle and the vibrate is gone.I love it.Now I can it much harder and higher rpm,but it still got some wheelhop,I can live with it.It's a pita to get the ring out,me and my friend end up cutting the INSIDE(not the WHOLEe mount,not the braket that hold the ring,do I make sence?)ring with the metal saw in half(2 pieces) and it's really easy to remove the ring then.Hope this will help some of you that want to DIY at home.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 10,163
From: Northern Jersey
That ring is part of the stock mount ?? Im going to have a shop put them in and I want to tell them good directions...
Push all the stock rubber out...cut ring out ?? lube up ES mount and insert ?? sound good or no ??
-matt
Push all the stock rubber out...cut ring out ?? lube up ES mount and insert ?? sound good or no ??
-matt
Yes. Well the stock ring and mount should be push out completely with the press,if they got the size fit over the stock ring,then it'll be good,cause my friend don't have the same exact size(bigger and smaller),that's why we cut the ring into 2 pieces for ez removed.
I've had PR mounts for over a year on my Max, and I also run HS headers- for almost a year now also. No problems what so ever, vibration is only there right around 1000-1200RPMs and its almost totally gone at idle. Its hard to tell they are even there, especially when driving. Some .org member was parting out his Maxima on Ebay and I managed to score these for 100 bux plus 15 shipping- used for bout a week. Vibration was there for the 1st 2 weeks and after that they settled down.
I would say it idles bout as rough as a stock FWD SR20.
I have been checking my motor mounts every time I change the oil- bout once a month and they seem to be holding up great even with the extra heat generated by the headers, so I dunno if the story bout them melting from the header heat is true or not.
I would say it idles bout as rough as a stock FWD SR20.
I have been checking my motor mounts every time I change the oil- bout once a month and they seem to be holding up great even with the extra heat generated by the headers, so I dunno if the story bout them melting from the header heat is true or not.
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