It is 3" all the way.

 

Hey guys I'm pretty new to F/I and I've been readin as much of the posts about The Stillen S/C's every chance I get and I've never heard the term "reclocking."

Forgive me for being slightly off-topic but, would anyone mind explaining this term/process and what's its purpose/advantage is? Thank you.

 

what they are doing is tilting the SCer in a different angle. Just remove the 4-5 allen bolts and the blow will turn upward or downward or how ever youw would like to position it. The angle the SCer comes from stillen Sucks. Tilting upward makes it so much easier to work with. Ian says he gained 1 full psi.

 

haha

Of course in doing so I would need to replace the piping and couplings all the way to the throttle body no?

Thanks for the help ;-)

 

No, just up to the maf.

 

awsome dude thank you.

1 question: In rerouting the piping to the front of the car, would there be any major advantage to cutting in an intercooler?

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=426168

Post 73 shows dyno results before and after installing the intercooler. The before dyno is with the intake routed around the front, like what I did with SlamdMax. Bottom line is, I didn't lose any peak power, but I did lose area under the curve. In order to take advantage of the cooler intake air, I need to be able to advance the ignition timing.

Here is the thread describing routing the intake around the front of the car.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=328904

 

I've got the stillen version, and really wish they'd done something like that.
Did you keep the intake location? Mine is sucking hot air from right behind the rad. Probably reduces HP and **may** make a ping worse?

 

Never mind, I saw the thread.

 

Same here, I had 5. Iansw, the 5th single allen screw is underneath the blower. You can still clock it with just 4 of the 5 screws loose. If you felt underneath the blower you will feel that single screw. I reclocked the blower this weekend also. It was pretty easy.

 

5 allen bolts for me too. Blower is finally reclocked. Hood clears by 3 mm.
No pink couplers for me!

 

very nice im jealous

 

James, I love how that AWAC fits in there sooo nicely.

 

What was that close?

 

I bet you're getting some wicked compressor surge with your HKS SSQ there....

I miss my HKS SSQ - too bad it never leaks under vacuum ever....

 

Oops. The huge, thick 3" 90^ elbow coming off the blower.

Finally got the car up and running. Time to check out this whole compressor surge business..

 

OT, but is that an Odyssey PC680? If so, let me know how that works out, if you don't mind.

 

Yes, that's the PC680. Specifically, it's the PC680MJT. MJ=metal jacket T=Terminals


For those who are curious...the metal jacket is recommended, but not mandatory for automotive use. The metal jacket is to prevent engine heat and vibrations from affecting the performance of the battery. The gold terminals are necessary to convert the female connection of the battery to a male connection. (See link)

http://www.batteryweb.com/odyssey-de...Model=PC680MJT

I've had the battery for about 3 months, no complaints so far. The car has sat for two weeks (with the alarm off) and it started right over. Gotta love it! Only 15 lbs!!

 

Damn your setup looks fu!king clean. Now come do mines...LOL

 

Thanks Steve, but the AWAC isn't in yet. What you see is a temporary 3" aluminum pipe (cut to the exact length of the AWAC). I just paid for the AWAC last Friday and it shipped Monday. I have done some preliminary stuff like getting the Vortech ice chest to fit etc etc. After I ordered the AWAC, I left off with the guy to contact me or Josh if another one comes in. It will be all yours if you want it! BTW, did you ever measure the temperature drop with your AWAC?

 

I haven't. The reason why is 1. I don't have a dual temp gauge like I want and 2. Its way to cold to do any work on the car. Since we're in the rental house, the garage seems to have no insulation at all. Even in long undies working is uncomfortable. It would be nice to see how the sub freezing temps changed the iat though.

 

Can you post a pic. of you in your long undies?

 

You don't want to see that. Trust me!

Josh/James

are there any plastic parts in the JR kit? I'm wondering because if I replaced my AWAC with it, I may want it powdercoated like it is now.

 

my god, that looks like 5 inch charge piping, lol. Was that fat elbow from "intaketubing.com" or whatever site? Please tell me u arent getting compressor surge at idle. i want the ssqv so bad.

 

Thats the one. It uses the insert too.

James, have you had any problems like Josh did with the coupler blowing off?

 

Yes, intakehoses.com. Don't forget the reducer insert.

I'll check tonight or tomorrow and report back to you guys.


No plastic parts in the kit. The aftercooler comes polished, and the JR emblem seems removable.

Mine popped off too, and I don’t even have the AWAC in yet. I guess I’m a chicken when it comes to tightening those cheesy weak worm clamps. I always break them when I go too tight! Josh and I will be ordering T-bolts clamps and silicone couplers today or tomorrow. Josh’s popped off because we only used a flathead screwdriver to tighten the clamps. Once we used a ratchet/socket and cranked them down hard, he’s had no problems.

 

Well, after checking the SSQV out, it does seem to cause some compressor surge. It does not vent any air at idle, where the stock Bosch BOV lets out TONS of air at idle, and the sound "flutters" when I shift at low rpm's. At high rpms, it chirps like I'm used to. I now have this growling sound too, which I think is the air turbulence in the charge pipe. However, I'm not absolutely positive, as I built and installed a CAI (using a K&N air filter capable of 900 cfm) and that could be the source of the "growl" or at least contributing to it. I might temporarily use Ptatoheds BOV pipe/Bosch BOV and see how it affects the "growl" sound.

 

For years I thought that "flutter" at low RPM was he BOV.

Turns out that was in fact compressor surge. You might want to pop your hood and rev the engine and listen - if it is what I think it is you will quickly see what I mean. Put your head near your blower and listen.

 

I hope this gets resolved soon Wizard, ive got my mouse pointer on the "check out now" button for that BOV, lol. i wish there was some way to modify it.

 

Why do you want it so bad?

 

gotta question, are you guys using aluminum pipe or SS. Which one is better for heat resistance?

 

Aluminum. Its light wieght. You should get it coated though.

 

I used SS from www.Burnsstainless.com ...then I had it Cromex Coated.

-matt

 

I way prefer aluminum. But Jim and I had a hard time finding aluminum elbows. We only found aluminum straight pipe. If you hold up one of each, you'd be very amazed how light aluminum is.

 

Because i'm tired of hearing all these sleek high tech flutters and chirps and "clinks" when i roll out with my turbo friends....with my obvious ghey a$$ "wooosh!". Getting sick of it really. They are really stealthy sounding.

 

Mine's going to be for sale.

 

Yeah. but if you are getting rid of it because of the compressor surge it won't do me much good

 

I had to go to a Vortech Mondo bov to get rid of compressor surge. Largest bov in the free world.

 

Even bigger then the 50mm Tial?

 

Stephen,

Does the Mondo Vent air at idle ?? How tight do you keep the mondo. ?? Looks like i may need to upgrade to a mondo.

-matt