I hate to be a stickler here, but when you were switching versions up and down, did you completely uninstall the software first? Or just keep overwriting using the update files?

I just mention it because I have seen several cases where weird glitches like this have happened that couldn't really been explained and were solved by completely uninstalling the current version, then resinstalling v1.09 (or the first one off the CD) and then running the update again. So the process is:

1-Uninstall laptop software
2-Reinstall CD version or 1.09 on laptop
3-Connect to EU and "update" firmware (backwards). Manually move the "gsc02.p" file if need be. THe EU also needs to be turned off for several seconds before being turned back on
4-Update laptop software to current version
5-Reconnect to EU and update firmware to current. Again manually move the gsc02.p file if necessary.

For some reason the installs don't always seem to work properly, I don't know, maybe it varies depending on the system and OS, USB drivers etc, or if the EU is switched on/off too quickly I think. But I have changed versions many many times backwards and forwards on mine and never seen wingdings like that..

So just so I've got this straight, you have just tapped the 2 crank signal lines not intercepted them, right? and the car is running normally but the EU doesn't display rpms, and the tach on the dash doesn't either? Does it work using the coil setting on the vehicle tab?

The jumpers look ok to me. For JP7/8 I'd leave them at 1-2 though.

There is a text file called "e-manage2US" in the program directory. If you open it up with Notepad and find string definitions [1501] to [1538], this seems to be where the I/J tab titles are... is it still wingdings there?

Oh and what is the interaction LED doing? (normally it should be slowing flashing orange if it's reading properly)

Might be easier to give me a call instead of typing all this out each time. lol.

 

I have completely removed any traces of EU or Emanage Blue from my laptop before I try and reload the software. I even go as far as to remove my maps folder and store it on a flash drive until the new updates are done.

The crank wires are tapped not intercepted. The car idles a little low, and the cars tach does not work and there is no rpm signal to the EU.

Time permiting I will give you a call. Its just easier for me right now to type it out.

The interaction light it doing what it should per the manual.

 

A few more ???'s:

If you choose "ignition signal" under the RPM signal type, then does the EU recognize the rpms?

Or if you just unplug the 2 crank lines from the EU harness and let the wires simply go through to the ECU, then does the tach work?

When you say the interaction LED is doing as per the manual does that mean slowly flashing orange while the car is running?

This might be a little exhaustive at this point, but do you have a scope or at least a meter to check the crank signals coming into the EU/going to the ECU? The stock ECU is probably not reading the crank properly either if the tach's not working, which might suggest a sync/signal loss/wiring issue somewhere (or maybe the EU board itself?) I hope you don't have a defective one...

Do the other parameters on the datalogger track fine? (ie MAF, I/J duty/pulse widths, water temp etc)

Oh, and BTW, I have another beta version that was very stable on my car--v1.15b, I could email it to you to try but will need your address. I have not tested the new 2.0 so I can't vouch for it at this point but the rpm problems don't seem to be version related if you've tried several of them.

Sorry for the 20 questions but I'm sure you can appreciate it's pretty hard to diagnose something online like this without being there physically to see the install... (please know I'm not questioning your workmanship, just trying to think of possibilities and eliminate some...you seem to have a unique case there)

 

Newest update.

The issue with the odd characters is my laptop, I installed EU software on two other PCs and they did not have the same issues I did. I looked at the e-manage2-US file and everything in there looks good when I open it with notepad on my laptop. Any idea on where to look for a improper font setting that would be messing with EU?

I removed both of the crank signal lines from the EU, and the cars tach still does not work. I dont have a scope here I can use, but I will hook a multimeter up and see if I get any signals. Where can I physicaly find these sensors on the motor to visualy confirm they are ok?

I have only been observing the interaction light when my laptop has been connected. When I am not connected, the LED is steady yellow, so the EU is not getting an RPM signal, but since the factory tach is not working either, I am assuming I have a sensor/wiring issue somewhere.

Dont worry Dan, I dont feel you are questioning my workmanship. I have been working on cars professionaly for 12years, and had my own shop for about 2 years . I dont put anything above suspicion, even my own work. But if your ever in southeastern Pennsylvania you have some free dyno time for all the help you have been.

 

Aha! So it was the laptop afterall... lol. I figured the font thing couldn't be just an EU issue. Hmm, I am not an IT guru when it comes to things like fonts but it sounds to me like you're missing the font you need and Windows is just substituting (and of course didn't choose well. haha). Don't know which Windoze version you're using but under XP for example if you switch the Control Panel to Classic View and choose "Fonts" it will give you a list of all installed fonts. You could compare the lists between your computers to see what's missing and then under the File menu choose Install Fonts and add in the ones you need, or just install all of them off the Windows CD/website. That's my best guess...

Both crank sensors can be gotten to easily from underneath the car. The crank REF sensor is at the front of the engine (pass side) just underneath the crank pulley, and the POS sensor reads the ring gear on the flywheel so is located at the back of the engine at the bellhousing.

Thank you for the dyno offer, I'll keep it in mind if I'm down that way, but it's no problem, I don't mind helping where I can.

 

Try running ad-aware and/or Spybot. It sounds like you have a virus or spyware. I had the same problem with the eManage blue and it was a worm virus. Nothing else messed up except a few feilds in the blue.

Free Download links:


Ad-Aware



SpyBot


.

 

Oh interesting idea!

Never even thought about that. Like I said, I'm not an IT tech... lol

 

I've been playing with the new software trying to get the knock sensor to work. After trying all the options etc available there was no response in the graph ie 0% reading after reving it up.

Anyone else had any luck.

 

You probably have to induce knock... bang the block with a hammer, or maybe you don't have the right parameters set?

Dunno.. I won't be able to play with this until March at least...

 

Not sure if the issue is the same, but I know my PLX R500 cannot read nissan knock sensors without some electronic trickery.

There is some info on what you have to do to amplify the knock signal for the PLX here

www.plxdevices.com/forum/index.php

Maybe the same thing needs to be done so that EU can read nissan KS signals?

 

Hmm, interesting info. Really I should first find out from Greddy how the EU detection logic/circuit is built. The software does allow you to either pick a resonant type (and corresponding frequency) or a non-resonant type. But I'd like to know how they've set up the non-resonant detection. What we also need to do (Jime or someone else who can do it before I can?) is induce knock and datalog the voltage pattern the sensor produces. Either datalog the signal via the EU analog input or with a scope. I know I'd watch the KS signal waveforms jump sometimes but I never audibly heard knock on my car so it was hard to correlate without headphones.

 

in park, rev the car to 2500 or so and take a long screw driver or extension and reach under the lower intake manifold and tap the knock sensor. if it dosent detect that then its not working for sure. thats how you first test the j&s