First major problem...
04-02-2006, 09:00 PM
#1
First major problem...
Okay, I've reach my first major problem since being turboed and I am completely clueless of what it could be.
Ever since Friday night, the car seem to hit a wall when I under WOT. Whether if it is on 5psi, 8 psi or 10 psi, I can hear the turbo spool but the car goes nowhere. Its so slow that a NA 4th gen with some mods would walk on me. WTF??? Under WOT, the turbo sounds like it normally does but there seem to be a lot more air being forced out. Since I've checked for leaks the only place that the air noise is coming from is out the wastegate.
I see full boost and it doesnt fall off but the car just doesnt go like something is restricting it, it also is laggy even though it spools, it takes longer to reach the set boost.
The weird and most consistent thing is everytime I let it sit for a hour or so the car would boost normal for a short period of time and then it would act up again; another thing along with this is that everytime the car is acting up, the charge pipe immediate after the turbo going into the IC is twice if not three times as hot as normal.
So far I have check for boost leaks and there are none. Second I removed and cleaned the wastegate and also cleaned the intake side of the turbo. I've check both my safc and wb to see any abnormality but they are consistent to settings before this happens. Also check the boost controller and it does it regardless if the EBC is on or off. I dont have a CEL nor any knocking that could be audible. I am running outta ideas so if anyone has any please chime in. I'm sorry if this is confusing but I just worked a 10 hr shift and am tired as hell. If anyone needs more clarifications please feel free to ask. Thanx again.
Ever since Friday night, the car seem to hit a wall when I under WOT. Whether if it is on 5psi, 8 psi or 10 psi, I can hear the turbo spool but the car goes nowhere. Its so slow that a NA 4th gen with some mods would walk on me. WTF??? Under WOT, the turbo sounds like it normally does but there seem to be a lot more air being forced out. Since I've checked for leaks the only place that the air noise is coming from is out the wastegate.
I see full boost and it doesnt fall off but the car just doesnt go like something is restricting it, it also is laggy even though it spools, it takes longer to reach the set boost.
The weird and most consistent thing is everytime I let it sit for a hour or so the car would boost normal for a short period of time and then it would act up again; another thing along with this is that everytime the car is acting up, the charge pipe immediate after the turbo going into the IC is twice if not three times as hot as normal.
So far I have check for boost leaks and there are none. Second I removed and cleaned the wastegate and also cleaned the intake side of the turbo. I've check both my safc and wb to see any abnormality but they are consistent to settings before this happens. Also check the boost controller and it does it regardless if the EBC is on or off. I dont have a CEL nor any knocking that could be audible. I am running outta ideas so if anyone has any please chime in. I'm sorry if this is confusing but I just worked a 10 hr shift and am tired as hell. If anyone needs more clarifications please feel free to ask. Thanx again.
04-03-2006, 03:23 AM
#2
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
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Posts: 9,335
That is a tough one to guess at unless one gets to actually drive the car and see how it feels first hand.
Where are you getting your boost singal? Off the manifold or off a place on the charge piping?
When you took the wategage off did you open it up or just remove it?
even though you don't have a CEL did you check the codes anywya?
Where are you getting your boost singal? Off the manifold or off a place on the charge piping?
When you took the wategage off did you open it up or just remove it?
even though you don't have a CEL did you check the codes anywya?
04-03-2006, 09:26 AM
#5
well, I'm suppose to dyno tomorrow night so maybe that will tell some tale.
I will check on some other stuff too before then, the boost signal is from the manifold. I didnt open the wastegate (spring area) but did spray the valve with cleaner, nothing unusual about it. I will check for codes too.
I will check on some other stuff too before then, the boost signal is from the manifold. I didnt open the wastegate (spring area) but did spray the valve with cleaner, nothing unusual about it. I will check for codes too.
04-03-2006, 11:41 AM
#6
I could just be the temp change for the season. Down here in Tennessee the **** BOX runs like a scalded dog during the winter and not so scalded during the summer. I noticed that the high in Saltlake was almost 60, so I might just be shooting in the dark on this one. Are you running a wide ban to monitor the AFR. You might need to tune some more.
04-03-2006, 01:09 PM
#7
I had this exact problem. The car would drive normally but after getting into it once or twice it would start lagging badly. The turbo spooled vary fast, but the car didn't accelerate. Turned out the problem was my knock sensor, I threw in a resistor and haven't had any problems since. I'm guessing it was either bad or getting a false signal and pulling timing like crazy. Try doing that or replacing it and see if it solves your problem. My EGT's went up to 1500 degrees on part throttle, so I wouldnt recommend flooring it until the problem is fixed.
04-03-2006, 03:23 PM
#8
Temp could be a reason but it runs like that whether if it was in the day or at night which was in the 40's.
Timing cross my mind which it seems plausibe and it definitely feels like time was is retard but I didnt look into as much because of no CEL and the knock reading on the safc (even tho I dont know how acurate it is) wasnt much different from before. I think I will replace the knock sensor, anyone know where I can get one for a decent price?
I pulled the plugs and it was greyish tips and black base from running rich... I will do some pulls on the WB and see what my AF is .
Timing cross my mind which it seems plausibe and it definitely feels like time was is retard but I didnt look into as much because of no CEL and the knock reading on the safc (even tho I dont know how acurate it is) wasnt much different from before. I think I will replace the knock sensor, anyone know where I can get one for a decent price?
I pulled the plugs and it was greyish tips and black base from running rich... I will do some pulls on the WB and see what my AF is .
04-03-2006, 03:30 PM
#9
Originally Posted by Brad92SE
I had this exact problem. The car would drive normally but after getting into it once or twice it would start lagging badly. The turbo spooled vary fast, but the car didn't accelerate. Turned out the problem was my knock sensor, I threw in a resistor and haven't had any problems since. I'm guessing it was either bad or getting a false signal and pulling timing like crazy. Try doing that or replacing it and see if it solves your problem. My EGT's went up to 1500 degrees on part throttle, so I wouldnt recommend flooring it until the problem is fixed.
04-04-2006, 10:52 PM
#12
Well, I think its the knock sensor, I put in the 470k ohm and it felt a normal again. I check for codes and got 0304 & 0505 which from the FAQs it happens for a bad KS.
So far it doesnt hit the wall but it does lag just a little bit more than before which could be due to weather. I checked my af and its around 11.3-11.5 thru out 3rd gear. The resistor is not permanent fix since I feel this is not a safe way to go about this situation and I will be swaping out a working knock sensor in the next feel days. I am gald at this moment that it seems to be fixed, I'm crossing my fingers that this is the problem.
So far it doesnt hit the wall but it does lag just a little bit more than before which could be due to weather. I checked my af and its around 11.3-11.5 thru out 3rd gear. The resistor is not permanent fix since I feel this is not a safe way to go about this situation and I will be swaping out a working knock sensor in the next feel days. I am gald at this moment that it seems to be fixed, I'm crossing my fingers that this is the problem.
04-04-2006, 10:57 PM
#13
I was suppose to dyno today and had set an appointment @ 6 but the shop stood me up.
I was there for a good 45mins hoping they were going to be late but they never showed. This is the second time that I try to get on the dyno and failed.
Last thursday, my friends and I called every dyno shop in town hoping to get on (6 shops total). 2 were busy(understandable), 1 was no answer (which was the one I ended scheduling for today), another was moving their dyno and finally the best two excuses I've ever heard of :
1. We don't dyno FWDs.
2. (my favorite)We don't dyno Maximas...
I guess I'm not mean to dyno afterall.
I was there for a good 45mins hoping they were going to be late but they never showed. This is the second time that I try to get on the dyno and failed. Last thursday, my friends and I called every dyno shop in town hoping to get on (6 shops total). 2 were busy(understandable), 1 was no answer (which was the one I ended scheduling for today), another was moving their dyno and finally the best two excuses I've ever heard of :
1. We don't dyno FWDs.
2. (my favorite)We don't dyno Maximas...
I guess I'm not mean to dyno afterall.
must be a Utah thing.
04-09-2006, 08:37 PM
#17
Okay- the problems continues.... After the replacement of the knock sensor, the car no longer hits the wall like when I first described. There are actually a few problems that came up after the KS was replaced:
The first and major problem is that I am not spooling, punching it in 3rd or 4th from 3k I would see some boost (4-5psi) and right at 4.75k-5k I see full 10psi instantly till redline, low and mid range is really laggy.
You can view a video of my racing a Evo MR in the weekend battles forum, where me and him was side by side on 10psi.
From what everyone is telling me(either from the org or my friends who have driven my car), I should have beat the Evo quite handily and I know would have if my car was 100% I woulda. The car seems to run better off the WG spring, although it still lags, it spools closer to normal then when I'm running on 10psi. On top of that my MEVI is not fully activating, which I found today was due to a cracked vacuum canister.
Third problem: My BOV was not letting air out at idle like before so I was hearing compressor surge when I rev at idle or low boost. I relocated the vacuum and now there air coming out of the BOV when I let off from a idle rev so that probelm seems to have been fix.
I'm running outta of things to troubleshoot.
Things that have been done so far:
-replaced KS
-check/clean WG and turbo
-check for coupler leaks
-check codes and reset ecu
-check plugs (looks okay but will replace this week)
I'm going to play around with some of the vacuum lines and see if that could help, I will also change out the plugs. Anything else anyone see that I should check? Any help would be apprieciated. Thanx
The first and major problem is that I am not spooling, punching it in 3rd or 4th from 3k I would see some boost (4-5psi) and right at 4.75k-5k I see full 10psi instantly till redline, low and mid range is really laggy.
You can view a video of my racing a Evo MR in the weekend battles forum, where me and him was side by side on 10psi.
From what everyone is telling me(either from the org or my friends who have driven my car), I should have beat the Evo quite handily and I know would have if my car was 100% I woulda. The car seems to run better off the WG spring, although it still lags, it spools closer to normal then when I'm running on 10psi. On top of that my MEVI is not fully activating, which I found today was due to a cracked vacuum canister.
Third problem: My BOV was not letting air out at idle like before so I was hearing compressor surge when I rev at idle or low boost. I relocated the vacuum and now there air coming out of the BOV when I let off from a idle rev so that probelm seems to have been fix.
I'm running outta of things to troubleshoot.
Things that have been done so far:
-replaced KS
-check/clean WG and turbo
-check for coupler leaks
-check codes and reset ecu
-check plugs (looks okay but will replace this week)
I'm going to play around with some of the vacuum lines and see if that could help, I will also change out the plugs. Anything else anyone see that I should check? Any help would be apprieciated. Thanx
04-09-2006, 09:40 PM
#19
Originally Posted by glenmoormax
yeah, i know what will fix it, a 3.5 
04-09-2006, 09:44 PM
#20
Moderator who thinks he is better than us with his I30
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 9,335
It still doesn't sound that off to me.
Boost starts to build at 3K then as load increases the turbo fully spools and holds till redline.
I am guessing one would have to drive it to see what you mean
Check for a boost leak. You can make a boost leak tester if you have access an air compressor. Do a search, there is an old thread where I described how to make a boost leak tester at home.
Boost starts to build at 3K then as load increases the turbo fully spools and holds till redline.
I am guessing one would have to drive it to see what you mean
Check for a boost leak. You can make a boost leak tester if you have access an air compressor. Do a search, there is an old thread where I described how to make a boost leak tester at home.
04-09-2006, 10:04 PM
#21
Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
It still doesn't sound that off to me.
Boost starts to build at 3K then as load increases the turbo fully spools and holds till redline.
I am guessing one would have to drive it to see what you mean
Check for a boost leak. You can make a boost leak tester if you have access an air compressor. Do a search, there is an old thread where I described how to make a boost leak tester at home.
Boost starts to build at 3K then as load increases the turbo fully spools and holds till redline.
I am guessing one would have to drive it to see what you mean
Check for a boost leak. You can make a boost leak tester if you have access an air compressor. Do a search, there is an old thread where I described how to make a boost leak tester at home.
04-10-2006, 04:46 PM
#25
Isn't that a *****? (sorry, post whoring to get to 15 so I can post a thread).
But seriously, what kind of tubing (material and gage), welding rod, and etc did you use on this failed piece?
But seriously, what kind of tubing (material and gage), welding rod, and etc did you use on this failed piece?
04-10-2006, 05:06 PM
#26
. Its 2.5 in, 16 gauge metal tube. its where the rear bank joins the front and then the pipe goes up in a 90 degree angle. I was suprise that I didnt hear it before even under normal driving it doesnt sound like a typical exhaust leak, very quiet. It was also covered by exhuast wrap so maybe thats contribute to the quietness.
04-16-2006, 06:44 PM
#29
*Update*
Yesterday, I crawl underneath the car and did a bubble test on the feedpipe. I found two pin size holes on the weld but other then that no other sign of leaks. I unistall majority of my IC and check the couplers, nothing was torn or cracked. I also put in new plugs, the old ones didnt look to bad, just black from running rich. Borrowed my friend's BOV and it seems to run a bit better no more air leak sound during midrange.
Another observation, under partial throttle the seems to slightly hesitates (especially in second from 2k-5k). and in the mornings, the car really hesitates until when the car is fully warm. Under full throttle, it still doesnt have any mid range power and then 5k comes its feels normal and then some. It really feels like I 'm driving a honda, it sounds like it too.
I did a little research and it could be a faulty MAF but I am uncertain if that would affect both partial and wot. It is a Z32 maf. Anyone got anymore suggestions?
Yesterday, I crawl underneath the car and did a bubble test on the feedpipe. I found two pin size holes on the weld but other then that no other sign of leaks. I unistall majority of my IC and check the couplers, nothing was torn or cracked. I also put in new plugs, the old ones didnt look to bad, just black from running rich. Borrowed my friend's BOV and it seems to run a bit better no more air leak sound during midrange.
Another observation, under partial throttle the seems to slightly hesitates (especially in second from 2k-5k). and in the mornings, the car really hesitates until when the car is fully warm. Under full throttle, it still doesnt have any mid range power and then 5k comes its feels normal and then some. It really feels like I 'm driving a honda, it sounds like it too.
I did a little research and it could be a faulty MAF but I am uncertain if that would affect both partial and wot. It is a Z32 maf. Anyone got anymore suggestions?
04-16-2006, 07:40 PM
#31
stock ecu, z32 maf, 500cc DW injectors. SAFCII. AFPR. zeitronix WB.
Also forgot to mention that I also saw a few times like abnormally hit air flow percentage, not consistent and only saw every so often. Last time I remember was like 79.8%. I was like WTF. I normally get mid 60's%, I also tap the 5v user input to the maf signal wire. Idle I see anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5. varies. Under WOT I saw as high as 4.67 reading, the graph shows a consistent rise of voltage under wot. I check the voltage at idle with the multimeter when I tap the line and it was the same reading at idle but I am not sure if it is hooked up right.
Also forgot to mention that I also saw a few times like abnormally hit air flow percentage, not consistent and only saw every so often. Last time I remember was like 79.8%. I was like WTF. I normally get mid 60's%, I also tap the 5v user input to the maf signal wire. Idle I see anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5. varies. Under WOT I saw as high as 4.67 reading, the graph shows a consistent rise of voltage under wot. I check the voltage at idle with the multimeter when I tap the line and it was the same reading at idle but I am not sure if it is hooked up right.
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