Ok Im thinking of getting a electric cut out for my turbo set up. Do they work good any cons of the electric style?
Ok Im also wondering if I could use the emanage ultimite to actavate it. Im getting the greddy e01 boostcontroller witch will included my pressure sensor. So im wondrering if the aux map could send a pulse to it to make it open at a certain boost setting on the eu. I know they make boost activated cut outs but there so scarse and hard to find!

 

They work fine, and yea you can activate it with EU, i just suggest you use a relay, so the EU sends the relay the signal and relay sends power to the cutout.
Aaron can tell you more about the electric cutout since he has one, they work great.

 

electric ones move fairly slowly, so using a boost switch might not work so well. The ATP boost activated cutouts open much faster if I recall. I have an older quicktime electric cutout, and it takes 4-5 seconds holding down the switch to fully open, but they might be faster now.

 

Id just use a switch so it isnt always opening in moderate acceleration, like merging on the highway or something.

 

You might want to check this link out here. This guy used a TB from a ford and a wastegate actuator to open it at certain boost pressure. Its just something to consider and its very cheap to do while being just as effective.

 

I am not sure what kind of racing you do but my buddy put an electric one on his STI and it opened or closed in about 3 seconds (not sure of the brand) and was really cool because it would go from sounding normal to sounding like an absolute MONSTER, but he liked racing from a stop and the cutout caused a considerable loss of torque at the low end and the gains were experienced only in the really high rpm's. He eventually took it off and sold it, and now claims cutouts are only really good for interstate runs. Boost activated may solve that problem though.

 

The electric cutout won't open fast enough for you. You will need something that's boost actuated and opens instantly.

I have the McCord Power Plate and I absolute love it. I've had it for about 3 years now. I must have hit something on the road recently and the motor broke away from the housing. I called up McCord and they quickly shipped me a $20 replacement motor and I was up and running quickly. So, now I can vouch for their customer service, which is fantastic!

It takes about 3 seconds for me to open mine fully. I have videos of it before and after on my website. Feel free to check them out.

With my 22" slicks and weight reduction, my low end power doesn't suffer. I wind up above 4K rpm in 1st gear in a fraction of a second. But on street tires with my normal gearing, I can feel a loss in low end power. But I can also feel a gain in top end power.

I said this year ago when I first got the cutout and I still find it to be true for my car... I shave .15 in the 1/4 mile whenever it's open. For boost applications, you can expect a much bigger gain.

 

ya I agree, when i had mine with street tires i noticed lack of low end. to be honest it was so loud i didnt feel any power at all lol, vibrations knocked the senses out of me. N/A from just opening the cutout i gained 7whp.

 

what do you guys this about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MakeTrack=true

 

It doesn't look that bad. But it's more expensive than the one Mccord provides. Plus, with eBay, you are taking a chance on a company that we know very little about.

Atleast with Mccord, you will save money AND be assured that they have good customer service and will work with you. It definitely is a good product. I can say that first hand.

 

I know you're a tweaker, too. What do you think about the throttle body idea for a cutout???? If cable-operated, it can be cheap and quick too....

I am thinking about how a Q45 TB mounted on a Jegs 3 inch cutout would really work..

Like this one...
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...51312_-1_11529

 

I like the idea. You can INSTANTLY dump the exhaust. That way, you can play around with RPM Activated switches!

TALK ABOUT A CONFUSED DRAG RACING CROWD!

Quietly do burnout, quietly launch, at 4K BAM, people fall out of their chairs!

How are you going to mount the TB to the cutout? I know I can fab up a plate out of mild steel. Same material used for turbo flanges. I can even get it CNC'd for ya but it'll cost some bank.

 

Do you have a pic of the McCord installed under the car? I bought a McCord 3 years ago to have a setup like yours, but haven't been able to find a shop that can install it without banging up my floor 4" or without having the motor scrape the ground over slight bumps. Also, do you still have a stock catback?
So now I have an unused McCord and nothing to do with it. I'm thinking of just ordering some more gaskets so I can open it manually, but what fun is that? IIRC the gaskets are only good for one or two uses (removal and install again).
Any ideas?

 

Oops - double post!

 

I've looked at several on eBay - because there are some good photos there. I think if I used a Jegs 3 1/2 inch cutout tube and blocking plate, I can have a hole cut and mount the Q45 TB right on the plate using the existing holes of the TB. Maybe something out of aluminum, instead?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting

SInce the TB has the butterfly mounted more or less centered, exhaust pressure won't blow it open, and since there is already a strong return spring on the TB, a simple cable can open or shut the TB butterfly. It is tempting to think about driving the TB off a WOT switch/relay using a solenoid or door-lock-opener motor, but that seems overly complicated. Maybe the cutout will mount just ahead of the 3" flex, and exit to one side....

Good photos of a Q45 TB:
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3inchfront.jpg

Yeah, the shock effect alone would be worth the work! Just like you described, except I would open it just as I staged at the tree. Heh...

 

I thought about that But i was wondering if a aluminum throttle body would stand up to the heat of turbo exhaust?

 

Only one way to find out.... The melting temp of aluminum is pretty high, I think. The throttle plate and shaft are steel - only the body is aluminum. I bet my nitrous temps are as high as a turbo exhaust, so maybe I'll find out first.

 

See what you did? You're providing an idea to the wrong group of guys! I bet almost everyone in this thread will have a TB on their exhaust within the next week!

There are some hardcore Home Depot/Radioshack Modders in this thread! HDM and RSM

 

You can always goop red RTV on the cutout is you run out of gaskets. And I will reuse my gaskets 10 times over. Sure it might leak, but it's hard to tell unless you have your ear next to the cutout.

I don't have any pics of what my Mccord Power Plate looks like. But from what I know, the room under a 4th gen is MUCH more cramped than the 3rd gen. I have plenty of room under my car. It's not the lowest hanging part either. The front sway bar and the front engine crossmember are MUCH MUCH lower than my cutout.

I have my cutout installed in a testpipe with nonfixed flanges. So it can be turned to any position. I make sure the power plate is touching the heat shield above the testpipe. I turn it until it's as far from the ground as possible. The vibrations over the years have worn down the edge of the aluminum power plate, but it doesn't hurt it's function at all.

I am still concerned about the power plate hanging down. When I go over uneven hills or bumps, I am scared that the cutout will be the only thing that hits. I've been doing well for the past several years.

I have a WSP ypipe, WSP testpipe, and stock catback and a 1.2" Eibach drop.

So with your 4th gen, the power plate is the lowest hanging part under your car?

Grey, what is the purpose to mess with this TB idea if you are going to have it open during the launch? Just spend $140 or so and get a cutout and Mccord Power Plate. You can install their kit in less than 30 minutes.

Oh yeah, just weld the TB to the cutout! Or bolt it to a cheap flange, then weld it to the cutout.

 

Yeah -ain't it great ?? And it's winter, so we gotta have something to worry about!

 

See - now you're doing it ! Actually, I have zero clearance getting on my trailer, I'm doing some custom header work, and I like the idea of a TB cutout with cable 'cause I used to have one on my 312 Mercury-engine '54 Ford 2-door with Isky cam and dual-quads and a truck clutch. I think that was in 1958 or 59..... And it's winter..... and I think it will work...

 

That would be awesome if you can get it all worked out with some kind of solenoid.

 

Here is what I run http://www.dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm.
I run it where the CAT should be. I had to make a boost switch & relays to have it open and close based on boost. Mine opens in a little less than 2 seconds. It adds a bunch of power on top end and sounds really mean. hehehehe

 

Yeah. That's a very nice unit. I hear great things from people that have it. It's just more expensive. But that 4 year replacement warranty is nice.

That is one annoying sig!

 

I'm shopping for one as we speak....... The solenoid would be no trick - probably best done with a WOT switch, I think....

We shall see what I can get on the cheap..

EDIT: Just won a nice one for $75.00... http://i14.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/8a/6d/7e6f_2.JPG

LatinMax, that really is annoying!! At least ditch the "blink", OK ??

...

 

so the y pipe for the cutout goes where the cat is?

 

Mine is going to mount on the end of a Jegs 3 1/2" y-cutout welded in just ahead of the 3" flex section - I think.... Others have pulled the cat and put one in there.

My Y-pipe has room, I think - but until I get all the parts and turn them over to the custom shop, I'm hoping.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3inchfront.jpg

...

 

I wouldnt hack up a y pipe

 

You haven't seen "hacking up a Y-pipe" yet..... the manifolds will be replaced by long-tube headers, cut off just below the collectors on each side, then merged back into the 3 inch collector with 2 inch ceramic-coated pipes. The Jegs 3 1/2 inch cutout assembly will mount just ahead of the flex section and open horizontally toward the driver's side, with the Q45 cutout mounted to the removable plate.

I've got a racers' fab shop committed to doing this, just waiting for me to get all the parts together. This way, I get to keep the 3 inch Warpspeed system in place, update to long-tube collectors, add a large dump outlet, and remain street-legal.

I might be crazy, but it won't be the first time....

 

That big exhaust would love a bigger set of camshafts. Normally NA motors see good gains with a big exhaust from bigger cams with a lot of overlap.

 

Or a 3.5L... .. Actually, although I intend to do just that, I'm going to push my 3.0 "junkyard dog" with nitrous just a little further, with another nitrous stage, the "Alaskan pipeline" (already installed) and tweaked headers and then a good dyno tune.

I'll be using the Shift_Fast_2 to shift me at the strip, like I did at the end of last year, so I'll get the most out of the 3.0....

When I get done with the 3.0, I will have a great platform for a 3.5.
.
.

 

Ive used the mccord on a turbo dodge and loved it. I don't belive anyone that says they expierienced a loss of low end torque. The turbo itself provides plenty of back pressure for the engine, and turbos do not want ANY back pressure. The differance in spool up i felt even with an already free flowing exhaust was almost 500rpm, not to mention the added power up top.