Today i dropped my car off for install on a twin scroll t3/t4 .50/.70 turbo custom kit. I'm so exited to see if its going to spool as fast and hard as i've imagined!

2000 maxima se 5spd
full 2.5 inch to the back
afc neo
and a bunch of other stuff being done right now!
custom twin scroll exhaust manifold(not any more single up pipe), intercooled bar and plate....

 

who's doing the work. good luck with it hope it works out...

 

what boost are you planning on running and power goals? GL

 

Good luck w/ everything.

Any details on how you are running the exhaust feed pipe and downpipe?

 

i plan on running 3.5 psi at first till i'm sure everything is working, than 6psi all the time and up to 8 psi for racing!

 

the last dyno i did N/A i put 203 whp its around 250+ to the crank. with the setup i'm getting done; cutom twin scroll t3/t4 intercooled with almost no pipe distance i hope to acheive very little lag and hope for lots of torque and lots of hp.

 

the feed pipe is going to be attached by two seprate pipes from my cast iron exhaust manifold into the dual exhaust housed turbo, it being a real twin scroll is going to be setup only with one feed pipe. That means its not really a twin scroll setup. We did this due to space restrictions.

My down pipe is going to be 2.5 inch (a bit bigger leading right off the turbo) the by pass pipes for the external waste gate is going to be 1 3/4 inch i think, haven't seen how much room yet. I was going to have custom exhaust manifolds built but i've seen how durable and non restrictive mine are so i think i'll use them for now(a lot less money and gets rid of a lot of pain in fitting).

The turbo is going to be attached to the tranny fitted low were it can keep cool...(the rad fan is right infront of it but still its a great location. My frame is being modded and now i have more clearance! I'll know more in a day or two and eventually dyno tune and post the results(before and after)

 

Hey mooseq30, who's doing the work on your car ? Cosmo Racing ?

Good luck man.

AA

 

Rick and Nick @ a place in Montreal called Raw Tek are doing the setup and they have more than all the tools necessary!
The entire exhaust side is finished and the intake side is going to be done soon. The car is going to be tuned and ready to drive on Tuesday I hope.

 

 

man whats with those welds?

 

Are you not planning to have a front motor mount??

 

there is a front mount. its installed

the first picture with the big blue silicon adapter is the outlet from the intercooler going up to the throttle body and the other smaller tube next to it connects to the inlet on the intercooler straight from the turbo

the welds might not look pretty but they are thick and absolutely perfect on the inside and thats what matters, function over form boys

The engine mount is reshaped to fit and been reinforced by steel plates!!

 

Anyway you prolly want to put some exhaust wrap around the piping that would help a lot to keep the heat as low as possible. Keep up man you'll have some good time ahead.

 

More fellow Qc guys going with either 3.5 swaps or Turbo set ups. Nice to see youre getting serious guys.

 

Looks pretty good man! Fowards Y FTW!!!
I also think you should get the exhaust wrap.. Any reason why you didnt go with 3" turbo back?



And not to hijack your thread but,
Anyone know where i could buy a used/new foward Y from? Dont really trust the exhaust shops around here

 

My exhaust is going to get hot, but the way I have it all set up my car is going to be very efficient and that exhaust heat shouldn't be such a problem!

-My air is being pulled in outside the engine bay, behind the fog light, the intercooler and piping are very short, hopefully if I don't get bored to fast I’ll keep the boost bellow 6-7 psi above that I’ll go ceramic or something.

When the time is good I will step up get some needed upgrades (fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs, clutch…) and boost 10-12 psi!

 

 

For 10-12psi I hope you plan on better management than a stock ecu. Stock timing is not gonna cut it for those boost levels.

 

By stock timing not cutting it for those boost levels what exactly do you mean? That he will need to retard timing?

 

Yes. Stock timing is very aggressive for high boost applications.

 

So in my case, using vafc2 as a form of tuning (which advances timing indirectly), is a bad idea? Should i be considering another source of tuning perhaps Emanage Blue (sitting in my room) that can retard timing. I am at 7.5psi and most correction I have i believe is -13 on 370cc injectors. So that should have advanced a few degree's. been running like this for couple months though with no problems. I guess if I put up the boost I will need to reconsider using the vafc2. OR since I already plan going with Meth injections, will the meth injection alone help reduce any risk of damage due to high boost and advanced timing?

 

if memory serves for every 5 points of fuel removed it advances timing 1 degree

 

You can always put the maf element in a bigger housing so you are not pulling as much fuel. Once you get closer to 10psi I would be worried about timing. I would not want to advance any past 9psi. If you get a bigger maf housing you can eliminate the timing you're advancing right now.

 

Well right now I am using a VG maf which is an identical housing like the z32 maf. even the exact same plug and wiring. I have to run a scanner and actually check where my timing is at. i belive the VG housing is slightly wider inside, I have to compare sideby side when i have time with the stock 3.0vq one.

 

But is the VG maf sending the 300zx style signal?

 

I was told if i put the heat sensor that is normally located before the maf after the maf, after the turbo, it would delay it with an increase on the temp, and it will retard my timng by a bit? is it true?

 

so i drove my max for the first time since the turbo last night:

`stalls cause of the blow off valve
`ran way to much boost i think its because of the boost controller

`went into the 18's way to lean for a secound than richened it up and it went way too fast over 8 psi @ 3500 rpm, 1 psi @ 2300 rpm. I want it to push only 3.63 psi than be able to boost up to 7-7.5 psi when necessary! I think my waste gate spring is wrong size or the tube going to my boost controller isn't sending the right pressure to the waste gate!

!!! going to try and fix it all today, i will post up any changes!!

 

Recirculate the air back into the maf so it doesnt stall.

 

shouldn't the shop installing your turbo kit fix the problems? or were they just to fabricate the piping?

is the BOV before or after the maf?
what size waste gate are you running?
the wastegate spring might fix your problems if not, it sounds like your getting boost spikes already.

were you gunning it or moderately driving?

 

Is 2.5in piping not going to get hot as hell running higher boost (later on)?

 

just drove 400 km, i did it to work in my car, test it and learn to drive it again.

I did 400kms and i still have a quarter tank!

The car drives pretty good it still stalls if i let the rpms drop fast! I went from montreal to ottowa and back it was the most fun ever in my max!

I dont think the air fuel is amazing but its really not bad at all 11.5-12.5(wasn't really it was 11.5-17) gonna work more on tuning and put it on a dyno soon

 

I can't beleive the torque!

my set up was designed for response, 0 lag and efficiency, and to run good temps.(cold)

i hit boost at 1400-2000rpm around 1psi it depends what gear, and it hits 3 psi by 1800-2200rpm, full boost at 2500-2900rpm 5-5.5 psi , in fifth it hits full boost by 2500rpms and holds so nice and steady! i find my car is very restricted past 5000 rpm and can't make the big numbers yet! The best feeling is 1400 rpm to 4500 in 5th gear it pulls so hard especially around 2500-4000 so much torque!

My A.S.S dyno @ 5-5.5psi
190whp @3500rpm
240-260whp @4500-6450 felt lean (it was 15a/f)

when i boosted ten clicks of my newly located boost controller I hit 7-8 psi
my A.S.S dyno @ 7psi(it was higher than 15a/f)
210whp @3000rpm
260-270whp @4200-6450rpm

 

You may have to consider tuning your car below 3k. 14.7 a/f while showing boost is not a good idea at all! or how are you working around that?

 

PIX!!!!!!!...congrats man!! But in my last few weeks of schooling from Streetz "turboing for dummies" school... I also suggest tunning you a/f below 3k. Might be missing out on alot of untounched power...


Also, you mind if i ask where you got your Turbo from. Your results have me very interested in going with a twin scroll

 

your seeing boost waay too early, unless you want that, and set it up that way?

 

holy shiznit!!! I just noticed your getting full boost at 2500... wow, I'm a n00b to turbos BUT, wouldn't you want to start spolling around 2.5-3k and reach full around 4.5-5k? Can someone chime in on this?

 

Dosnt really matter where you wanna boost at. you can be boosting when you start the car lol jk. The reason one should richen the a/f below 3k is not really to get more power out of it, its to not blow your motor. if you see full boost, or even 2-3psi with the a/f being near 14.7, i give the engine like a week before it takes a ****. and if ur not sure how to tune below 3k and dont have a EU. look up my threads on how i did it., basically disconnect your o2's lol.

 

Ya i made some runs with a wideband today and it showed 11.5-17 a/f, i was destroying my car all last night!

!!!thank god for 94octane it is a LIFE saver!!!

- I retuned it today and i still can't get enough fuel but it seems ok for the moment and pulling harder than i could even imagine;

from 1000rpm to redline 6450 i have my neo set;
0@900rpm(a/f in pull 13, a/f at idle 14-15)
+18@1300rpm (a/f 11.9)
+28@2100 (a/f 12-12.5)
+36@2400rpm(12-12.5)
and neo is set +50@2800rpm till red line
@2800 till redline;
@2800 (a/f 11.7-12.5) till 3100rpm
than it ranges from 12.5-14.5 till 4200rpm than stay constant 12.5-12.9 till 4900rpm and drops to 12 flat till redline!!

Its the best i can do with the fuel management i have but if i was able to do over 400kms in one night with numbers in the 16-17 range and my engine somehow is still alive and was even still pulling really hard than i think for the moment going into the 13-14 range in only a few rpms is alright! it seems to love its new a/f numbers and i'm kinda mad that i ran my engine so lean for so long but stuff happens and its still alive so i'm still happy!

the ****ty thing is my fuel pump has more fuel to give but my stock fuel pressure regulator wont tell it too! I still have work to do but its running like a champ other than stalling if i'm not carefull (letting the blow off valve **** my a/f) i can drive it now almost never stalling but it is a challenge that i'll need to fix.

The best part of all is the engine temps;
right now i can't know what it is going to be like this summer but in -6 deg c
The entire engine and bay are room temp, the cold pipe going up to the engine is frozen cold to the touch and the engine is luke warm even the turbo after ripping is not that hot, put it this way i was scared to touch the exhaust side with the tip of my finger but i did it anyways and it didn't burn the skin right off my finger in fact it hurt a bit but was like putting ur finger in hot water for a secound, the cold side of the turbo was freezing on the other hand!

I raced three cars today and once they heard my blow off valve they stopped racing cause i was already cars away!! lol

From last night i feel like i've gained another 30-50 hp on the highway and i'm sure with better fuel management one day it will be even faster.

Does anyone know if the fact that my engine keeps so cold is the reason that after last night, its still alive and beeting stronger than EVER?

 

your going to blow your motor if your going to leave your a/f so lean. tune to at MOST 12.5, yea the car might pull harder at 13's or w/e. but it will also make you want to cry when they are towing it away.

and you are tuning below 3k without the ECU trying to fight it?