STi is faster.. =(
STi is faster.. =(
pretty dissapointed =( tested my car out against an 06 STi today on a straightaway and he was faster.. not a HUGE gap...he just slowly pulled away... any mod suggestions?
currently:
V2 w/ 2.62 pulley, headers, exhaust, stage 3 clutch.
plase tell me what I need to improve this setup =) just got paid
currently:
V2 w/ 2.62 pulley, headers, exhaust, stage 3 clutch.
plase tell me what I need to improve this setup =) just got paid
Originally Posted by trialt
pretty dissapointed =( tested my car out against an 06 STi today on a straightaway and he was faster.. not a HUGE gap...he just slowly pulled away... any mod suggestions?
currently:
V2 w/ 2.62 pulley, headers, exhaust, stage 3 clutch.
plase tell me what I need to improve this setup =) just got paid
currently:
V2 w/ 2.62 pulley, headers, exhaust, stage 3 clutch.
plase tell me what I need to improve this setup =) just got paid
First you need to explain a little deeper your experience. Sometimes it's all in the race that will decide who wins.
Also what are you dynoing at? And do you know if it was a stock STI? Remember, they are pretty quick.
3inch exhaust, CAI, full 00vi, reclocked blower, 3inch charge pipe and bigger injectors. Hey every little thing helps. Are you tuned? If not invest in the Emanage Ultimate. Race the Sti and Evo's form a roll or any 4wd car for that matter.Also Check out the Quaife group deal, You'll put more power down to the ground more efficiently. But a heavily modded Sti still will be problems unless you decide to go the turbo route or 3.5 swap with boost. I'm not 100% accurate but I'm just trying to think of things that will help you to the best of my knowledge.
Maximas are fat and you have a big stereo. When I was serious about racing and had a sub, for friday and saturday night I'd loose my sub, amp, spare tire and jack + the board that goes over the top of it, and my floor mats. Not sure if you want to do that but it will make a huge difference (you sound like you have an easy 350 lbs you could loose without doing anything permanent), and is also easier on the driveline.
it was from a 55mph roll, and it was on a straightaway.. he didnt fully just jet off but he did slowly pull away at like 3 feet per sec. his mods were.. drop, exhaust, BOV from what i know.. dont know what was inside..
also do you think adding an emanage will give me a substantial difference?
also do you think adding an emanage will give me a substantial difference?
also do you think adding an emanage will give me a substantial difference?[/QUOTE]
For one, it is possible to raise the rev limter, S/c + Higher rev= more boost/power. It has a whole bunch of other features and goodies, but it would better be explained in one of the old threads thats floating around. I believe it was DandyMax's thread for testing and trouble shooting. I do think you should open up your exhaust a bit more from 2.5 to 3inch even with the charge pipe. And the 00vi(full) would also help a hell of alot.
For one, it is possible to raise the rev limter, S/c + Higher rev= more boost/power. It has a whole bunch of other features and goodies, but it would better be explained in one of the old threads thats floating around. I believe it was DandyMax's thread for testing and trouble shooting. I do think you should open up your exhaust a bit more from 2.5 to 3inch even with the charge pipe. And the 00vi(full) would also help a hell of alot.
3.5 swap with ARP rod bolts+E-manage Ultimate. 1500$ WELL spent. That 3-inch exhaust aint a bad idea too and of course bigger injectors for a total of about 2500$. Keep the revs low and you should be just fine.
The next STI guy you race will look like this
If you dont have 2.5k now though thats fine - go with what he suggested. 00VI+EU, injectors and 3-inch exhaust (maybe hold off on the 3-inch exhaust for now if its too much for your budget). +1 on the increased rev limiter (7000 safely on a 3.0L). That (more boost)+combined with the 00VI with power valves removed and your top end will be nuts.
Weight reduction is absolutely the best way to go though, especially with the maximas glass tranny. Now get faster, you have enough ideas LOL Pick and choose.
The next STI guy you race will look like this

If you dont have 2.5k now though thats fine - go with what he suggested. 00VI+EU, injectors and 3-inch exhaust (maybe hold off on the 3-inch exhaust for now if its too much for your budget). +1 on the increased rev limiter (7000 safely on a 3.0L). That (more boost)+combined with the 00VI with power valves removed and your top end will be nuts.
Weight reduction is absolutely the best way to go though, especially with the maximas glass tranny. Now get faster, you have enough ideas LOL Pick and choose.
i would not suggest reving past stock rev limiter with the 2.62 pulley. You are already overspining the blower at around 5800 rpm. If you need some form of VI and bigger injectors i'm selling my mevi and 555cc DW injectors.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=513497
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=513497
Originally Posted by abci30
i would not suggest reving past stock rev limiter with the 2.62 pulley. You are already overspining the blower at around 5800 rpm.
well since you lost to an sti that tell me your making less then 256whp when i was boosting 4lbs i beat one by maybe half a fender from a roll. You should be putting down more then that with your setup, get injectors, mevi, piping,emanage and tune. Deff could get a nice increase after those mods. gL
You never know what people are running on the street. There are some monsters out there, I've seen some ridiculous numbers out of those engines. IMO boosted suburu > boosted maxima. I think awd is a factor too.
good suggestions. I will probably buy new injectors, Ive already purchased a sard fpr, and I will look into a mevi or 00vi. 3" charge piping and exhaust will also definitely be a must and then I'll top it off with an emanage. =) any other quick suggestions for now?
also I dont kno what that STi had, but it had a drop, exhaust and a front mount conversion...
also I dont kno what that STi had, but it had a drop, exhaust and a front mount conversion...
Originally Posted by MaxInProgress
well since you lost to an sti that tell me your making less then 256whp when i was boosting 4lbs i beat one by maybe half a fender from a roll. You should be putting down more then that with your setup, get injectors, mevi, piping,emanage and tune. Deff could get a nice increase after those mods. gL
Trialt, are you tuned? What does your air fuel look like?
Originally Posted by ewuzh
This is where the difference in turbo and supercharger power/torque band comes into play. With your turbo, you're spooling to full boost much sooner, so your torque comes much sooner as well. Even if the turbo setup has less peak TQ and HP, the "area under the curve" of the dyno chart is what matters. With the SC, it builds boost linearly and you won't have as much torque in the mid rpm range. This happens in all cars with the centrifugal type blower. Happens with M3 guys too. I tell people the reason why I sold my SC was because it wasn't fast enough and they ask how that's possible when I dyno'd at 265whp (and later 300whp).
Trialt, are you tuned? What does your air fuel look like?
Trialt, are you tuned? What does your air fuel look like?
Originally Posted by nismology

The quaife adds drivetrain losses.
Originally Posted by Cattman
The Ultimate Differential
The Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing Differential enables your car to accelerate quicker and corner faster. How?
Simply by getting the power to the ground!
The Quaife differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one.
With an normal open differential, fitted as standard on most cars, much precious power is wasted through wheel spin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip - along the path of least resistance.
The Quaife differential, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and automatically biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.
In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the QUAIFE biases greater power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed.
The Quaife differential also controls loss of traction when the drive wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The Quaife ATB differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs.
The Quaife ATB differential's unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage, whether you are on the track or on the street.
The Quaife differential is great for street driving or racing. Racers don't have to put up with locking mechanisms or spools that tear the steering wheel out of their hands when cornering. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, street drivers will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the cars towards its limits.
Expand your vehicle's limits with the Quaife ATB Differential![/COLOR]
The Quaife Automatic Torque Biasing Differential enables your car to accelerate quicker and corner faster. How?
Simply by getting the power to the ground!
The Quaife differential powers both drive wheels under nearly all conditions, instead of just one.
With an normal open differential, fitted as standard on most cars, much precious power is wasted through wheel spin under acceleration. This happens because the open differential shifts power to the wheel with less grip - along the path of least resistance.
The Quaife differential, however, does just the opposite. It senses which wheel has the better grip, and automatically biases the power to that wheel. It does this smoothly and constantly, and without ever completely removing power from the other wheel.
In cornering, while accelerating out of a turn, the QUAIFE biases greater power to the outside wheel, reducing inside-wheel spin. This allows the driver to begin accelerating earlier, exiting the corner at a higher speed.
The Quaife differential also controls loss of traction when the drive wheels are on slippery surfaces such as ice and snow or mud, providing the appropriate biased traction needed to overcome these adverse conditions. The Quaife ATB differential provides constant and infinitely variable drive. Power is transferred automatically without the use of normal friction pads or plates seen in other limited-slip designs.
The Quaife ATB differential's unique design offers maximum traction, improves handling and steering, and puts the power where it is needed most. A definite advantage, whether you are on the track or on the street.
The Quaife differential is great for street driving or racing. Racers don't have to put up with locking mechanisms or spools that tear the steering wheel out of their hands when cornering. Because it behaves like an open differential during ordinary driving, street drivers will have trouble telling it's there until pushing the cars towards its limits.
Expand your vehicle's limits with the Quaife ATB Differential![/COLOR]
Originally Posted by PharoNDmist
It may be, but at what percent? If it is a low percent, I would rather have that small loss and put power down effciently to both wheels(especially boosted), then to have that non-lost drivetrain power and have most of my power being wasted through wheelspin from one wheel and torque steer. But that is my personal preference. I do think that it is essential for our fwd applications with the desire to make big numbers, to have some type of upgraded differential. In general, the Quaife is a legendary proven mod for the max, whether street or track.
And i know how a torque-biasing differential works, thank you very much.
Originally Posted by nismology
"Efficiently" was the wrong word to use since you end up putting less torque to the wheels. That's all i meant.
And i know how a torque-biasing differential works, thank you very much.
And i know how a torque-biasing differential works, thank you very much.
well right now honestly my car is not tuned..not sure about the air/fuel right now.. I know that the 2.62 pulley setup is capable of more than 256hp... I just need to find out what is needed to unlock that power... right now i think it is the fuel system and I need some kind of tuning.. I just want something capable of a low 13 sec 1/4 mile time.. which im sure with a v2 w/ 2.62 is possible with other added goodies..
maybe turbo might even be better? idk.. I chose a s/c because ive had a lot of maintenence probs with turbos in the past and a lot of heat probs.. the s/c has been giving me a good power boost, ran very efficiently, and has had no probs.. and im sure there are ways to optimize my setup as im sure there are others who squeeze out a lot of power.
maybe turbo might even be better? idk.. I chose a s/c because ive had a lot of maintenence probs with turbos in the past and a lot of heat probs.. the s/c has been giving me a good power boost, ran very efficiently, and has had no probs.. and im sure there are ways to optimize my setup as im sure there are others who squeeze out a lot of power.
So let me get this straight, you ran into some random STI on the street he bust your ***?
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the hood. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
If you knew he was stock then yes you would need to figure out whats going on, but for all you know he could be making 500 CHP (not hard for those cars).
OK flipping the script completely:
I take all of that back, because you are reacting EXACTLY how I want people to react when I bust their *** and they go home and see that my Audi only came with 150 HP. Then they think, hmmmmm I know he had an exhaust and BOV and a FMIC, but that still not a lot, something must be wrong with my car ahhahah. As long as they don't see the size of the turbo under the hood.
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the hood. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
If you knew he was stock then yes you would need to figure out whats going on, but for all you know he could be making 500 CHP (not hard for those cars).
OK flipping the script completely:
I take all of that back, because you are reacting EXACTLY how I want people to react when I bust their *** and they go home and see that my Audi only came with 150 HP. Then they think, hmmmmm I know he had an exhaust and BOV and a FMIC, but that still not a lot, something must be wrong with my car ahhahah. As long as they don't see the size of the turbo under the hood.
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
So let me get this straight, you ran into some random STI on the street he bust your ***?
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the good. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
If you knew he was stock then yes you would need to figure out whats going on, but for all you know he could be making 500 CHP (not hard for those cars).
OK flipping the script completely:
I take all of that back, because you are reacting EXACTLY how I want people to react when I bust their *** and they go home and see that my Audi only came with 150 HP. Then they think, hmmmmm I know he had an exhaust and BOV and a FMIC, but that still not a lot, something must be wrong with my car ahhahah. As long as they don't see the size of the turbo under the hood.
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the good. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
If you knew he was stock then yes you would need to figure out whats going on, but for all you know he could be making 500 CHP (not hard for those cars).
OK flipping the script completely:
I take all of that back, because you are reacting EXACTLY how I want people to react when I bust their *** and they go home and see that my Audi only came with 150 HP. Then they think, hmmmmm I know he had an exhaust and BOV and a FMIC, but that still not a lot, something must be wrong with my car ahhahah. As long as they don't see the size of the turbo under the hood.
Very well said!
Actually the first thing i would do if i were you is to go get a dyno done, after that we can then get back to this topic if something is wrong or that the sti was just a beast. that makes more sense to me.
yes I will try and find a dno to measure.. but after my new injectors and fpr come in.. and donsupreme youre probably right, he might have some nice stuff under there.. I do know that i don't have an EXTREME lack of power.. because I easily pull away from 350z's and g35's. so i should check my standing first then find out if my car is off or not. and also its not like he completely just easily pulled away.. he just had a VERY slow gain on me.. like i said earlier maybe a few feet per sec. so I dont think his car was heavily modded but it was somewhat..
what gear were you in? From my experience if you are under 80 mph and you are not in third gear then you are going to loose. If you are under 60 then you should start in second gear. I know this is not great for the car but if you are racing then that is where you need to be.
Also get your car tuned. My car is still not tuned, but going from no tune to the horrible tune I have now made a huge difference. Good luck getting everything set up.
Also get your car tuned. My car is still not tuned, but going from no tune to the horrible tune I have now made a huge difference. Good luck getting everything set up.
Originally Posted by DonSupreme
So let me get this straight, you ran into some random STI on the street he bust your ***?
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the hood. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
So what, you don't know WHAT he has under the hood. He could be a running a BIG @#$#@ turbo with all kinds of work. You don't know what you are benching against.
im pretty sure he caught you in his sweet spot. with a 2.62 pulley you should have gotten him still, but im pretty sure you are running pig rich too. get some tuning and wait till your in your sweet spot then nail him,lol.
unfortunately they closed down the track here in hawaii.. the government doesnt want to fund it anymore =(. but there are places with a dyno, I will just do that but its really expensive here...well hopefully after the fuel upgrade it will run better =) btw also.. if anyone knows.. does the sard fpr require a fp gauge? and if so which one should i buy?
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