Well this probably should be in the all motor forum but since its going to be a boosted so I figure this probably is a better place to post.

Motor is in the car right now, just need to put and plug everything back it. I'm very nervous about starting the car but I'm certain I did the timing right.... Only time will tell. I will finally post some pics of my feedpipe and turbo, I'm running the SS Autochrome shorty headers as you can see. The motor itself has new 07 Alty rings, Cosworth main and rod bearings, ARP rod/main/head bolts, HKS head gasket, DW 650cc injectors and modified IM.
Already installed with a GT35R/T4 .68ar, J&S Safeguard and other supporting mods. EU is going in as soon as the car is up and running after any debugging. Here are some pics of the motor, feedpipe will be posted soon.

 

damn the blackberry took some good pics! the midified im looks to be sitting nice in the box btw. lol

but my quaife and cf trunk and your set.

 

double pic btw

 

Looks shiny!

Which clutch/PP are you going with again?

 

damn...thats nice and clean set up so far..
more pics will be great

Good Luck

 

Its a SPEC Stage 3... Its been the same one I've used when I was spraying and turboed. So far its doing well for me.

I'll snap some more pics with the motor in the car sometime today. Thanks!

 

Good job bro, cant wait for it to be running.

 

What method of connecting the turbo piping are you going to use?

 

Its my old forward y setup from the 3.0. The shorty
headers bolts up fine with my feedpipe.I'll have pics up later tonight.

 

lookin good. hope all goes smooth when you go to fire her up.

 

looks good man how much did you buy the motor for?

 

looking good bro

 

nice lookin good wish i would have done 3.5 swap then boost

 

$600 shipped from back east... found out she was a oil burner and decide to upgrade a few things... spent about $1K+ on parts.

Here are the feedpipe pics and some motor pics...

 

Turbo:



Feedpipe bracket to the trans:

 

motor pics:

 

damn justin. Its lookin good...can't wait to see if you can finally beat me

hahaha

but srsly i can't wait to see this thing running..

 

looks real good man. that turbo looks beefy

 

Looks good. Just out of curiosity, why do you run a reducer on the intake side of your compressor? I don't know enough about it to know if that's a restriction or not, but like I said...curiosity got me.

 

That's not a reducer it's an expander (reducer turned backwards) - it's a T04S style housing which has a 4" inlet but he probably has a 3" filter and piping leading to it so he has to adapt it somehow.

 

Exactly...At first I could find one that would fit and I ran no filter for a short time. I was very uncomfortable about that and made filter and pipe fit, there isn't much room to work with because the turbo sat so close to the strut tower wall.

 

Reducer/expander...you knew what I meant That's exactly what I was getting at, I was assuming the intake plumbing was smaller than the inlet of the compressor. And...
...now I see why.

 

Is there a different method or torque spec to tighten down the heads with those bolts ? Or the torque to tighten them down would be same as if it was stock bolts?

 

There's a different method and torque specification as specified by ARP and you have to use their lube for their torque specs to apply. These are not torque-to-yield like the stock bolts.

 

why the hks head gasket? For your power lvl do you really need them?

 

Why not? I'm in there already plus I picked it up for $230 brand new, $100+ off retail. I would take the HKS gasket over stock gasket any day of the week regardless of power levels.

 

Looking awesome... the pictures are decieving, that feedpipe looks LONGG. Looks like the turbo will be sticking out the side of the car

Oh yeah, subscribed for moar pics.

 

Nice pics, that feed pipe looks reeeeeal nice!

 

^^^^ I painted it.

 

Damn, that's an old-school ratchet wrench you got there

 

all the work has been done with mostly hand tools, that 150 dollar rachet set has paid itself off so many times. we are cheap bastages when it comes to tools lol.

 

I tried to start it tonight and all it does is crank and crank but no start. I know I have fuel and spark because I'm smelling out exhaust and pop from the exhaust. One thing I noticed from pass swaps (3.0), I saw some fluctuation of the tach when I crank it while this one, the tach needle doesn't move. This leads me to believe maybe a CPS issue, I check the harness wiring for the CPS and from the FSM, it matches the wires, I'm wondering if the CPS is sitting too far away from the flywheel, is there anyway to check without pulling the trans? Before I bolted the trans on, the flywheel was sitting up on the CPS sensor like normal, it wasn't anything abnormal about it. I'm using a 3.5 oil pan with a 3.5 sensor, the tranny side doesn't sit flush like the oil pan side...
Other than that I have no idea what else to check. While cranking I also hear this clicking from the timing cover area... near bank one. That makes me a little worried but I figure I don't have enough oil pressure for the chain to be fully tensioned. Any ideas would be wonderful.

 

You're aware of this and took the nescassary precautions right? So your cps was deffinitly sitting 1/8" away from the trigger wheel, the wires are matched up properly, and you bolted down the ground straps on the front injector harness right?

 

Im just asking but what do you mean 1/8 inch away?

 

all ground wires are connected, I had to extend the ground wires to the timing covering but they are grounded. I didn't sit measure the actual distance but the CPS was the same distance as the 3.0 sensor just eyeing it, didn't occur to me that I had to measure it considering people have used 3.5 oil with the 3.5 harness before.

 

He is talking about the distance that the CPS is away from the timing ring on the flywheel. It should be close enough that its reading the timing ring but not touching. 1/8in is just a distance it should be at I'm assuming.

 

yeah with your set-up it should be good though, but that's going by the FAQ not my personal experience, you don't really have to measure it, eyeball is good enough, when I had to grind my 3.5 pan I just made it so it was very close but wouldn't touch. I know it's kinda irrelevant since long cranking/difficult starting can trip a cps code, but have you checked the codes?

 

oh yeah I had to move my timming ring on the 6speed swap. I wasnt sure if he was talking about side to side or in or out . But I got ya.