get a haltech platinum instead of the fcon and save yourself $1500 - and have the ability to datalog stuff yourself (and change stuff if you feel like it) instead of relying authorized Fcon dealers any time you have a question or something goes remotely wrong.

 

I know. I have been reading about that as well. But I have to compare the cost overall since the Haltech doesn't come with all the bells and whistles. Not sure if the FCON comes with all the additional items necessary as well. But I know the price of the FCON includes tuning in the cost which can be a big difference. Plus I plan to go to MRC motorsports so if they start dealing with the engine management unit, I may consider it. Plus once its tuned...i am not touching it. MRC is close enough that I can go back if any changes are necessary.

Mike

 

I will get a stage 1 Forged Performance block w/ some JWT cams if something happens (knock on wood though). I have a feeling though that i will be going back for a re-tune and upping the boost after a few months. For right now i am just enjoying the car. I am trying to make this a streetable road course car, not just a straight line monster. I would like to get 550whp on a Dyno Dynamics when it is all said and done.

BTW which turbo's are you looking at getting w/ your JWT kit?

 

750's. This is the middle kit as you will have a little more mid power than the 850's. More streetable. We have similar goals but mine is 550 whp DJ. I know with the motor setup ann EMS I am going to use I can get another 100 whp out of the set up on C16, but my plan is to have a motor than can handle 20 PSI of boost on a daily basis but only give it about 15 PSI just for safey and security. Thats just me. Plus I won't be sleeving the block.

 

believe it or not man alot of people are going from sleeved blocks to un-sleeved due to the sleeved blocks running hotter. This is due to the water jackets being removed in order to accomodate the sleeves. To my knowledge sleeves are only good for drag racing since heat does not have time to build up as much when doing spirited driving or track lapping.

 

I think Neal was right on, with all of his points. That is a nice kit you got there, but for the money and what you want, the GReddy TT would have been much better. The GReddy TT's almost see full boost @ 2500RPM. The lag is pretty much non-existent. If you tried your best to feel the lag on this setup, you can't. The power is extremely linear with tons of bottom end. This is the PERFECT setup for tons of power with perfect drivabilty. When the car is cruising as well as hitting full boost, it is very controllable and civilized. Also on price, my buddy got his GReddy TT kit for $6K total. I forgot where he got that deal, but it was online. His came will every last thing you will need, including the front mount and Emanage Blue. What other mods do you have? That dyno sheet looks kinda low.

His car put down 378WHP @ ONLY 5.5 PSI with the GReddy kit.

This was @ 5,400ft. elevation! (Denver) tuned with Emanage Blue by "9 Second Racing"

His only other mods are Crawford Plenum, and Megan Y-Pipe.

This is on an '04 G35 Coupe w/80,000 Miles.

 

I don't know what all this fuss with those turbos spooling so slow. Neal, a Gt2871R hot Side (which is what determines 95% of spool) Is Very comparable in size to a stock T3 hot side. If not a bit larger. If he doesn't have staged t3 wheels then it should spool as good or better than Brians APS setup. especially with tubular manifolds. If he does have staged wheels (which it sounds like he does) .... then Personally i would recommend (if he even wants better spool) going to a Stock sized T3 wheel and a .48 a/r or similar size housing, and if you really wanted to top it i would have those wheels quick spool clipped (becoming much more popular in the T series turbo world). This would basically make those two turbos like Gt28s without the ball bearings, and bigger compressors.... I deal ALOT with t3-t4s since most of my work is turboing hondas.. so this is all right up my alley

Jeremy

 

yeah, if he did that it'd be much more responsive.

 

OK. Thats makes sense. Good luck with everthing and post some additional pictures up my man.

 

I like the greddy kit, but he paid 6k and had to replace alot of stuff in order to raise his boost levels. My setup is set minus the built short block. Also i rode in a greddy tt Z on the way to atlanta to pick my car up and his car didn't fully spool till around 3,500 rpm which is only about 600 rpm from what mine does. If you look at the power curve of the greddy kit it looses power in the upper part of the rpm band, that is not the case with mine.

About the power levels, he dyno'd at a high elevation and if those numbers you posted have any kind of correction in them then they are more than likely inflated. I'm not saying this was done on purpose, but it has been shown that cars that are dyno'd at higher elevations w/ a correction factor will put down inflated #'s. Keep in mind my car was dyno'd on a Dyno Dynamics. This particular dyno reads around 10% lower than a Dyno-Jet due to it being a load based dyno so theoretically my car would dyno around 450whp @ 7.5psi. I am not saying that this is a 100 % certain, but it has been shown by multiple shops that the dyno dynamics reads 10-13% lower than a inertia based Dyno-Jet.

 

I can agree with that you are saying but Chris basically got a good deal on all the piping and manifolds as I was thinking about making the purchase when I saw the post. I was to good a deal to pass up and was affordable enough to get his turbo project going. If I was purchasing brand new, I would probabaly go with Greddy but now that the JWT kit is doing big things, I will go that route. But if I got the deal Chris got, I may have went with the SFR kit.

Mike

 

Good to hear you got the car back and the car is running good. I forgot to call you back after this weekend. Voodoo fest was crazy. We need to meet up. Post some dyno graphs and pics.