Question about taking a blower off
Question about taking a blower off
I am in the process of taking my blower off of my car to change the belt on my blower. It's a V2 that is on my 98. Pretty much every thing is loose but it is still not coming off. It looks like there is a flat allen head bolt behind the idler pulley. Is this the case? Do I need to take that pulley off and then take the flat bolt out? What unsceen bolts could I be missing. I have all of the obvious ones out. Thanks for any help.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but I did not install my blower my self and it has never come off since the instalation. I am hoping to work on this again tomorrow so any help is appreciated.
I am in the process of taking my blower off of my car to change the belt on my blower. It's a V2 that is on my 98. Pretty much every thing is loose but it is still not coming off. It looks like there is a flat allen head bolt behind the idler pulley. Is this the case? Do I need to take that pulley off and then take the flat bolt out? What unsceen bolts could I be missing. I have all of the obvious ones out. Thanks for any help.
Sounds like you haven't downloaded and read the Supercharger install writeup on vqpower.com. All the mounting bolts are clearly shown in pictures and in schematics. This should help you with any unseen bolts you're missing.
I did look through some of that write up. It's kinda long
I'll look at it more this evening when I have more time. But you are saying that the idler pulley must come off before I can pull the blower and plate out? This is because I need to remove a flat allen head bolt under the lower part of the pulley? I have quite a bit of oil in this area so its kinda hard to see every thing.
The writeup is long for a reason. Ptatohed tried to cover every last detail; true step by step instructions. I agree, the writeup is long and wordy, but it's full of great info. There are even pictures for those who don't like to read (LOL
) or don't understand what is being said. I tried to trim it down in the proofreading stages, but Ptatohed insisted on keeping everything.
Yes,exactly. Removing the idler pulley gives you access to semi-hidden bolt.
Laziness at it's finest....
The writeup is long for a reason. Ptatohed tried to cover every last detail; true step by step instructions. I agree, the writeup is long and wordy, but it's full of great info. There are even pictures for those who don't like to read (LOL
) or don't understand what is being said. I tried to trim it down in the proofreading stages, but Ptatohed insisted on keeping everything.
Yes,exactly. Removing the idler pulley gives you access to semi-hidden bolt.
The writeup is long for a reason. Ptatohed tried to cover every last detail; true step by step instructions. I agree, the writeup is long and wordy, but it's full of great info. There are even pictures for those who don't like to read (LOL
) or don't understand what is being said. I tried to trim it down in the proofreading stages, but Ptatohed insisted on keeping everything.
Yes,exactly. Removing the idler pulley gives you access to semi-hidden bolt.

Anyway, thanks for the help, I am going to go out and try to pull the blower/plate now. I'll read the full write up later on.
Yeah, remove the idler pulley (pulley without siderails) to get to the allen bolt holding on the adjuster pulley (with siderails) bracket. Don't forget the alternator bolt too.
This is why you should do your own install.
I'm actually in the process of removing mine right now too to send in for a re-build. I'm getting a little oil at the inlet.
And I chipped a propeller tooth when my blower ate a sock
It's really tempting to leave some of these harder to get to bolts out when I put everything back together. But knowing me, I'll put back in every stinking bolt.
The V1 plate is a lot easier to work with.
Good luck.
This is why you should do your own install.

I'm actually in the process of removing mine right now too to send in for a re-build. I'm getting a little oil at the inlet.
And I chipped a propeller tooth when my blower ate a sock

It's really tempting to leave some of these harder to get to bolts out when I put everything back together. But knowing me, I'll put back in every stinking bolt.
The V1 plate is a lot easier to work with.
Good luck.
O.k., all done.
It took me about two and a half hours, including taking the blower off the mounting plate. Time to send her in to her maker....
Did you get it cardana?
It took me about two and a half hours, including taking the blower off the mounting plate. Time to send her in to her maker....Did you get it cardana?
I have been on a tighter time schedule. I broke the idler pulley bolt loose last night then had to go spending the evening with my girlfriend. I am going to go work on it again right now. Thanks for the advice.
okay the blower is seperated from the plate, I had to go to the store to buy some more allen keys because I bent a few trying to get some of the bolts out. Anyway, I now need to know which belt. I asked a question about this and the only person to respond was VIP maxima and he claims that my V2 set up with the 3.12 pulley takes the gatorback belt 4060695 6PK1765, but it looks as if the belt that I cut off of my car is a little bit bigger. It looks like the numbers are 4060705 6PK1790
Can some one please varify which belt I should be using with my set up? Was the belt that I had on possibly too big and thats why it jumped a rib? Or is the info that I got from VIP not accurate. Please let me know. I need to have time to run to the store if I need to. Thanks for any help.
Can some one please varify which belt I should be using with my set up? Was the belt that I had on possibly too big and thats why it jumped a rib? Or is the info that I got from VIP not accurate. Please let me know. I need to have time to run to the store if I need to. Thanks for any help.
okay the blower is seperated from the plate, I had to go to the store to buy some more allen keys because I bent a few trying to get some of the bolts out. Anyway, I now need to know which belt. I asked a question about this and the only person to respond was VIP maxima and he claims that my V2 set up with the 3.12 pulley takes the gatorback belt 4060695 6PK1765, but it looks as if the belt that I cut off of my car is a little bit bigger. It looks like the numbers are 4060705 6PK1790
Can some one please varify which belt I should be using with my set up? Was the belt that I had on possibly too big and thats why it jumped a rib? Or is the info that I got from VIP not accurate. Please let me know. I need to have time to run to the store if I need to. Thanks for any help.
Can some one please varify which belt I should be using with my set up? Was the belt that I had on possibly too big and thats why it jumped a rib? Or is the info that I got from VIP not accurate. Please let me know. I need to have time to run to the store if I need to. Thanks for any help.
Your answer is in the stickies, isn't it?.
I thought VIP got his answer for you from the stickies. ?
According to the stickies, 705 is the correct belt. This only works if you have the pulleys that came with the original Stillen kit. If the previous owner changed any of your secondary pullies (ie lexus metal idler pulley) then the info in the stickies is no longer valid.
According to the stickies, 705 is the correct belt. This only works if you have the pulleys that came with the original Stillen kit. If the previous owner changed any of your secondary pullies (ie lexus metal idler pulley) then the info in the stickies is no longer valid.
I have ASP pullies, I think they are the same size...just metal. I don't know where VIP got his information. If you were not aware, there is not much belt information in the stickies. Especially since most people here do not use the belts listed in the stickies. Anyway, I have the blower pulled apart from the plate right now and I have not have time to work on the car any more.
I think what we are all realizing lately is that the stickies don't take into account all the different variables like V1/V2 plate, lexus metal idler pulley, ASP pullies etc. Therefore, the info in the sticky isn't too helpful to everyone since there aren't that many guys on this board left that have all the original pulleys supplied in the Stillen kit and Stillen's V2 plate.
I'm not sure, but I think I remember reading that the ASP pullies are slightly different in size.
I think what we are all realizing lately is that the stickies don't take into account all the different variables like V1/V2 plate, lexus metal idler pulley, ASP pullies etc. Therefore, the info in the sticky isn't too helpful to everyone since there aren't that many guys on this board left that have all the original pulleys supplied in the Stillen kit and Stillen's V2 plate.
I think what we are all realizing lately is that the stickies don't take into account all the different variables like V1/V2 plate, lexus metal idler pulley, ASP pullies etc. Therefore, the info in the sticky isn't too helpful to everyone since there aren't that many guys on this board left that have all the original pulleys supplied in the Stillen kit and Stillen's V2 plate.
2. I have the ASP metal pulleys, and they have exactly the same dimensions as the original Dayco plastic pulleys in the Stillen kit.
3. If your belt "jumped a rib", it's probably because:
a. From wear or maladjustment, belt was too loose.
b. It was just getting worn out
c. You suffer from the pulley alignment problems endemic to the V2 kit / plate. Simple solution is to buy pulley spacers from 928 motorsports. Best $7 you'll ever spend. For my car, two spacers between the pulley and the SC are about right. Yours may be different...
4. You can stop bending your allen keys if you buy allen sockets like these:

Great for putting in and taking out the PITA bolt behind the idler pulley, separating the SC from its plate, and removing the SC pulley bolt.
Yeah, remove the idler pulley (pulley without siderails) to get to the allen bolt holding on the adjuster pulley (with siderails) bracket. Don't forget the alternator bolt too.
This is why you should do your own install.
I'm actually in the process of removing mine right now too to send in for a re-build. I'm getting a little oil at the inlet.
And I chipped a propeller tooth when my blower ate a sock
It's really tempting to leave some of these harder to get to bolts out when I put everything back together. But knowing me, I'll put back in every stinking bolt.
The V1 plate is a lot easier to work with.
Good luck.
This is why you should do your own install.

I'm actually in the process of removing mine right now too to send in for a re-build. I'm getting a little oil at the inlet.
And I chipped a propeller tooth when my blower ate a sock

It's really tempting to leave some of these harder to get to bolts out when I put everything back together. But knowing me, I'll put back in every stinking bolt.
The V1 plate is a lot easier to work with.
Good luck.
So I put the plate on without the little SOB. I'll let you know if I have any problems for doing this - and I'll probably try to find a new one for the next time I take the blower off.And really, how did your blower eat a sock???!!!
Thanks for chiming in Mike. Based on what I've read over the years, everybody says the ASP pullies are different in size than the plastic Dayco pullies. Maybe they didn't specify a size when they ordered?
At least I know now that the correct size is possible to obtain. I'll keep this in mind if I start melting my plastic pullies now that I've dropped down to a 2.62 pulley.
As for the allen sockets, yeah those things are awesome. I have a set myself and we just used them last weekend when changing the pulley. Looks like these allen sockets will be on Josh's Xmas list! Harbor Freight here we come!!
At least I know now that the correct size is possible to obtain. I'll keep this in mind if I start melting my plastic pullies now that I've dropped down to a 2.62 pulley.

As for the allen sockets, yeah those things are awesome. I have a set myself and we just used them last weekend when changing the pulley. Looks like these allen sockets will be on Josh's Xmas list! Harbor Freight here we come!!
Thanks for chiming in Mike. Based on what I've read over the years, everybody says the ASP pullies are different in size than the plastic Dayco pullies. Maybe they didn't specify a size when they ordered?
At least I know now that the correct size is possible to obtain. I'll keep this in mind if I start melting my plastic pullies now that I've dropped down to a 2.62 pulley.
At least I know now that the correct size is possible to obtain. I'll keep this in mind if I start melting my plastic pullies now that I've dropped down to a 2.62 pulley.

Your 2.62" pulley reminds me of another fun item that 928 motorsports sells: a boost limiter valve for use with centrifugal superchargers.
It allows going to a smaller pulley so boost arrives faster, but bleeds off excess top-end boost to prevent running lean. I think I'm going to get me one! The only issue I see is that my MAF is before the SC, so I would be bleeding off metered air and possibly dumping in too much fuel at redline, but what the heck. More fuel at redline can't be a bad thing... and I've got a wideband AF to see what really happens...
I didn't need to supply any sizes to ASP when I ordered my pulleys. I just told ASP what they were for, and they arrived exactly to the micrometer the same size as the plastic pulleys. The benefit is not just that they're steel, but also that the bearings are rated for higher speeds AND are replaceable.
Your 2.62" pulley reminds me of another fun item that 928 motorsports sells: a boost limiter valve for use with centrifugal superchargers.
It allows going to a smaller pulley so boost arrives faster, but bleeds off excess top-end boost to prevent running lean. I think I'm going to get me one! The only issue I see is that my MAF is before the SC, so I would be bleeding off metered air and possibly dumping in too much fuel at redline, but what the heck. More fuel at redline can't be a bad thing... and I've got a wideband AF to see what really happens...
Your 2.62" pulley reminds me of another fun item that 928 motorsports sells: a boost limiter valve for use with centrifugal superchargers.
It allows going to a smaller pulley so boost arrives faster, but bleeds off excess top-end boost to prevent running lean. I think I'm going to get me one! The only issue I see is that my MAF is before the SC, so I would be bleeding off metered air and possibly dumping in too much fuel at redline, but what the heck. More fuel at redline can't be a bad thing... and I've got a wideband AF to see what really happens...
That boost limiter valve is pretty cool. I'm pretty sure that it does the exact same thing as the SFMU is capable of doing in regards to bleeding off excess boost. (one of the 5 adjustment screws) Cool stuff.
sorry for not updating this thread. I finished up doing the belt replacement a week ago, I did the job by myself and I learned a lot. thanks for the little tips along the way. The biggest pain the the butt I had was the flat headed bolt behind the idler pulley and then getting the idler pulley back on....what a freakin pain!! Also I never took the tensioner pulley assembly off while doing this, I only took the pulley off. Something that I did do that saved me a bunch of time once I made it was cutting a 5mm allen key off to about a 1 inch peice, and then I put that inside of a 5mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet and that is what I used for the bolt behind the idler pulley. I have the same hex key set that madhatr (I forget how he spells his name) posted a picture of but I have broken those as well, and when I put one on to the end of my 3/8's drive ratched it would not fit in order for me to use it on the bolt behind the idler pulley. Currently everything is running smooth and I take the car for inspection tomorrow. Once I clear inspection I am putting on my 00VI and adding a cut out to my exhaust.
Originally Posted by mhadford
Your 2.62" pulley reminds me of another fun item that 928 motorsports sells: a boost limiter valve for use with centrifugal superchargers.
It allows going to a smaller pulley so boost arrives faster, but bleeds off excess top-end boost to prevent running lean. I think I'm going to get me one! The only issue I see is that my MAF is before the SC, so I would be bleeding off metered air and possibly dumping in too much fuel at redline, but what the heck. More fuel at redline can't be a bad thing... and I've got a wideband AF to see what really happens...
It allows going to a smaller pulley so boost arrives faster, but bleeds off excess top-end boost to prevent running lean. I think I'm going to get me one! The only issue I see is that my MAF is before the SC, so I would be bleeding off metered air and possibly dumping in too much fuel at redline, but what the heck. More fuel at redline can't be a bad thing... and I've got a wideband AF to see what really happens...
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The Frye
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
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Sep 2, 2021 11:03 AM





x4 how did your blower eat a sock???
Glad it all worked out for ya. Hope you pass inspection.
