VQ35 Midmount Turbo...
Interesting... in for viewing pleasure.
It basically seems like the RMT idea but moved further upstream. Depending on how the turbo is mounted and clocked it could work and be pulled off but I imagine it will take some creativity
It basically seems like the RMT idea but moved further upstream. Depending on how the turbo is mounted and clocked it could work and be pulled off but I imagine it will take some creativity
More then likely the oil pump will mount locally to the turbo, the exact location for each bolt has not been determined, but the pump will be within 3 or so inches of the turbo. gains are all dependent on PSI. Right now we are hoping to gain 100 WHP (329~ WHP / 339~ Torque)
I thought you were getting an SC? what happened?
More then likely the oil pump will mount locally to the turbo, the exact location for each bolt has not been determined, but the pump will be within 3 or so inches of the turbo. gains are all dependent on PSI. Right now we are hoping to gain 100 WHP (329~ WHP / 339~ Torque)
With Tax Returns on their way, my transmission coming out for the 2nd time tomorrow, and a new job starting on Thursday (at Altered Atmosphere, for those local guys) The turbo should be setup and ready to go I HOPE within a months time, who knows really with me, but hopefully I will be fully ready by the end of this week, having my car in a "happy" state, to turbo it.
With Tax Returns on their way, my transmission coming out for the 2nd time tomorrow, and a new job starting on Thursday (at Altered Atmosphere, for those local guys) The turbo should be setup and ready to go I HOPE within a months time, who knows really with me, but hopefully I will be fully ready by the end of this week, having my car in a "happy" state, to turbo it.
Hey, it would be interesting if when you do this, instead of running an exhaust all the way to the back, you just make a dump tube. Thing is your going to feel vibration under ur seat lol. but u wont get any lag or problems since it would be basically same as open down pipe on regular front mounted turbo's. If you do stay with an exhaust from turbo all the way to the back, do 3". I made the mistake of putting a 2.5" muffler after the turbo, and it hurt me alot. lost about 2 - 3 psi. But now i got a cutout right at the turbo's outlet.
Just got my tax refund today, going to stop by my new job on Monday (for work) and talk to my boss about the cost to mount the turbo, from there also going to see if the discount at AAM is nice enough to cover the rest of the parts...
Today was spent detailing my car, realigning the exhaust and fixing an o2 Issue that I have had for over a year now and just realized the other day.
Simply, gotta wait to get to Altered Atmosphere to talk about Discount Rates and take it from there.
Today was spent detailing my car, realigning the exhaust and fixing an o2 Issue that I have had for over a year now and just realized the other day.
Simply, gotta wait to get to Altered Atmosphere to talk about Discount Rates and take it from there.
Did a baseline dyno today with the Cattman 3" Exhaust on the car, was rather happy with the outcome..
250 WHP / 244 ft/lbs
Dyno can be seen here...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....93#post6238693
250 WHP / 244 ft/lbs
Dyno can be seen here...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....93#post6238693
I hardly have lag with my monster turbo and being way at the muffler. As long as he wraps the exhasut leading to the turbo, that thing is gonna spool no different than "conventionally-mounted" turbo up front in the engine bay. I mean he's only mounting it basically before the shifter! lol That's pretty damn close to me and if with a RMT I hardly have lag, he sure shouldnt (as long as you wrap the pipes leading to the turbo).
We are shooting for about 100 HP Gain (350 WHP)... and yes, Shortblu you can get a basic idea (depending on boost, depending on others gains using similar turbos on their car, etc etc) and, a 3" pipe for part of an exhaust, if following the same design of another (but smaller, 2.5") I would say about 15 - 20 HP gain on a turbo car...
Nothing was aimed at you i deleted the post it just makes me mad when things like that pop up when its an obvious bogus question that is common sense. Anyways this project is going to be very intresting when you complete it. Cant wait to see the finished product. Its just not something you see everyday with a midmount like that definante props on breaking the mold. Dont have to tell me about HP estimates ive had many years experiance on custom turbo setups in my own shop i was just genralizing the post that bothered me by trying to make a point.
Nothing was aimed at you i deleted the post it just makes me mad when things like that pop up when its an obvious bogus question that is common sense. Anyways this project is going to be very intresting when you complete it. Cant wait to see the finished product. Its just not something you see everyday with a midmount like that definante props on breaking the mold. Dont have to tell me about HP estimates ive had many years experiance on custom turbo setups in my own shop i was just genralizing the post that bothered me by trying to make a point.
I wanted to try something different.. I hate cookie cutter molds, so I try to always change the way I do something, and for the others who posted about lag, honestly I think I will experience the least amount of lag from all the current setups... no "odd" bends in the y-pipe, and the turbo is located literally a foot or 2 after the y-pipe is joined... it will be fun, right now I gotta fix my 3" exhaust before it drives me to sell my car
I wouldn't worry about lag if you build the system correctly. The main things are to use small diameter tubing before the turbo and to make sure it is wrapped. Also, you want a nice big exhaust after the turbo.
The greater the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the faster the turbo will spool.
The greater the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the faster the turbo will spool.
I wouldn't worry about lag if you build the system correctly. The main things are to use small diameter tubing before the turbo and to make sure it is wrapped. Also, you want a nice big exhaust after the turbo.
The greater the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the faster the turbo will spool.
The greater the pressure differential between the inlet and outlet of the turbine, the faster the turbo will spool.
I'm assuming you already have the part so I would wrap it real good and you should be okay. But if you can, something like a 2" pipe feeding the turbo would be ideal.
On my setup, I've got a 2" piping (almost 8 feet long) feeding the turbo. I guess you can say it is a remote front-mount turbo. This on a 4.5 liter engine. The turbo is pretty big, a Garrett T-76 with a T6 flange and an a/r of .96. I've got everything wrapped up to and including the turbo.
After the turbo, there is a 4" downpipe which necks down to 3.5" after 8 inches. From there it splits into two 2.5" tubes going to the rear.
It spools up at 3.5k in 1st gear and at 3k in the other gears. There is no let up once boost hits. It pulls hard all the way to 6900 rpm. I designed the system to utilize the pressure differential between the small 2" piping and the 4" downpipe.
On my setup, I've got a 2" piping (almost 8 feet long) feeding the turbo. I guess you can say it is a remote front-mount turbo. This on a 4.5 liter engine. The turbo is pretty big, a Garrett T-76 with a T6 flange and an a/r of .96. I've got everything wrapped up to and including the turbo.
After the turbo, there is a 4" downpipe which necks down to 3.5" after 8 inches. From there it splits into two 2.5" tubes going to the rear.
It spools up at 3.5k in 1st gear and at 3k in the other gears. There is no let up once boost hits. It pulls hard all the way to 6900 rpm. I designed the system to utilize the pressure differential between the small 2" piping and the 4" downpipe.
The feed pipe is a stock Cattman Y, it would be very involved to custom make a 2" when we already have the 2.5".
I'm assuming you already have the part so I would wrap it real good and you should be okay. But if you can, something like a 2" pipe feeding the turbo would be ideal.
On my setup, I've got a 2" piping (almost 8 feet long) feeding the turbo. I guess you can say it is a remote front-mount turbo. This on a 4.5 liter engine. The turbo is pretty big, a Garrett T-76 with a T6 flange and an a/r of .96. I've got everything wrapped up to and including the turbo.
After the turbo, there is a 4" downpipe which necks down to 3.5" after 8 inches. From there it splits into two 2.5" tubes going to the rear.
It spools up at 3.5k in 1st gear and at 3k in the other gears. There is no let up once boost hits. It pulls hard all the way to 6900 rpm. I designed the system to utilize the pressure differential between the small 2" piping and the 4" downpipe.
On my setup, I've got a 2" piping (almost 8 feet long) feeding the turbo. I guess you can say it is a remote front-mount turbo. This on a 4.5 liter engine. The turbo is pretty big, a Garrett T-76 with a T6 flange and an a/r of .96. I've got everything wrapped up to and including the turbo.
After the turbo, there is a 4" downpipe which necks down to 3.5" after 8 inches. From there it splits into two 2.5" tubes going to the rear.
It spools up at 3.5k in 1st gear and at 3k in the other gears. There is no let up once boost hits. It pulls hard all the way to 6900 rpm. I designed the system to utilize the pressure differential between the small 2" piping and the 4" downpipe.
If you have 25 psi of exhaust pressure before the turbo under full throttle and 10 psi, caused by a restrictive exhaust sytem, after the turbo, then you've got a difference of 15 psi.
Okay, let's keep the same 25 psi before the turbo but let's have you change your exhaust system so that you only have 5 psi of restriction under full throttle after the turbo. Now, you've got a difference of 20 psi which means you have the potential to do more work. This will get you faster spool and make more power. That's why turbo cars respond so well to exhaust upgrades.
Here's something I found on the web that explains this in more detail:
"It is a common misconception that the exhaust turbine half of a turbo is driven purely by the kinetic energy of the exhaust smacking into it (like holding a kid's tow pinwheel behind your tailpipe) While the kinetic energy of the exhaust flow does contribute to the work performed by the turbo, the vast majority of the energy transferred comes from a different source.
Keep in mind the relationship between heat, volume, and pressure when we talk about gasses. High heat, high pressure, and low volume are all high energy states, low heat, low pressure, and large volumes are low energy states. So our exhaust pulse exits the cylinder at high temperature and high pressure. It gets merged with other exhaust pulses, and enters the turbine inlet - a very small space.
At this point, we have very high pressure and very high heat, so our gas has a very high energy level. As it passes through the diffuser and into the turbine housing, it moves from a small space into a large one. Accordingly, it expands, cools, slows down, and dumps all that energy - into the turbine that we've so cleverly positioned in the housing so that as the gas expands, it pushes against the turbine blades, causing it to rotate. Presto! We've just recovered some energy from the heat of the exhaust, that otherwise would have been lost. This is a measurable effect: Stick an EGT upstream and downstream of the turbo, and you see a tremendous difference in temperature.
So, in real world terms, what does this tell us? All else being equal, The amount of work that can be done across an exhaust turbine is determined by the pressure differential at the inlet and outlet_ (in english, raise the turbo inlet pressure, lower the outlet pressure, or both, and you make more power) Pressure is heat, heat is pressure. Raising the inlet pressure is possible, but tough. Lowering the outlet pressure is easy - just bolt on a bigger, free flowing exhaust.
I've seen a couple of posts from people who added aftermarket exhausts, who report "my turbo spools up faster now" Well, that's because by lowering the outlet pressure, you increased the pressure differential, and now the exhaust gas can expand more, and do more work. That increased work pushes harder on your turbo, and it spools up faster. You should also see less boost drop at redline, because if an exhaust system is flow-limited, once you pass the flow limit of the system, any additional gasses you try and force through it only raise the outlet pressure. Higher outlet pressure, lower pressure differential, less work, less boost. "
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_fun.html
so the higher the pressure feeding the turbo while having a low pressure or free flowing after turbo setup is the ideal setup?
in my case, my entire exhaust from ypipe to catback is 2.5" feeding my t04b turbo, and the turbo outlet is almost free with a 3" cutout basically as if turbo outlet was open. Now, if i change up my entire exhaust setup before turbo to 2" that means i will spool up faster since higher pressure/velocity?
in my case, my entire exhaust from ypipe to catback is 2.5" feeding my t04b turbo, and the turbo outlet is almost free with a 3" cutout basically as if turbo outlet was open. Now, if i change up my entire exhaust setup before turbo to 2" that means i will spool up faster since higher pressure/velocity?
What I'm talking about is the difference in exhaust pressure before the turbo vs. after the turbo. The greater the pressure between the two, the greater the potential for work to be done.
If you have 25 psi of exhaust pressure before the turbo under full throttle and 10 psi, caused by a restrictive exhaust sytem, after the turbo, then you've got a difference of 15 psi.
Okay, let's keep the same 25 psi before the turbo but let's have you change your exhaust system so that you only have 5 psi of restriction under full throttle after the turbo. Now, you've got a difference of 20 psi which means you have the potential to do more work. This will get you faster spool and make more power. That's why turbo cars respond so well to exhaust upgrades.
Here's something I found on the web that explains this in more detail:
"It is a common misconception that the exhaust turbine half of a turbo is driven purely by the kinetic energy of the exhaust smacking into it (like holding a kid's tow pinwheel behind your tailpipe) While the kinetic energy of the exhaust flow does contribute to the work performed by the turbo, the vast majority of the energy transferred comes from a different source.
Keep in mind the relationship between heat, volume, and pressure when we talk about gasses. High heat, high pressure, and low volume are all high energy states, low heat, low pressure, and large volumes are low energy states. So our exhaust pulse exits the cylinder at high temperature and high pressure. It gets merged with other exhaust pulses, and enters the turbine inlet - a very small space.
At this point, we have very high pressure and very high heat, so our gas has a very high energy level. As it passes through the diffuser and into the turbine housing, it moves from a small space into a large one. Accordingly, it expands, cools, slows down, and dumps all that energy - into the turbine that we've so cleverly positioned in the housing so that as the gas expands, it pushes against the turbine blades, causing it to rotate. Presto! We've just recovered some energy from the heat of the exhaust, that otherwise would have been lost. This is a measurable effect: Stick an EGT upstream and downstream of the turbo, and you see a tremendous difference in temperature.
So, in real world terms, what does this tell us? All else being equal, The amount of work that can be done across an exhaust turbine is determined by the pressure differential at the inlet and outlet_ (in english, raise the turbo inlet pressure, lower the outlet pressure, or both, and you make more power) Pressure is heat, heat is pressure. Raising the inlet pressure is possible, but tough. Lowering the outlet pressure is easy - just bolt on a bigger, free flowing exhaust.
I've seen a couple of posts from people who added aftermarket exhausts, who report "my turbo spools up faster now" Well, that's because by lowering the outlet pressure, you increased the pressure differential, and now the exhaust gas can expand more, and do more work. That increased work pushes harder on your turbo, and it spools up faster. You should also see less boost drop at redline, because if an exhaust system is flow-limited, once you pass the flow limit of the system, any additional gasses you try and force through it only raise the outlet pressure. Higher outlet pressure, lower pressure differential, less work, less boost. "
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_fun.html
If you have 25 psi of exhaust pressure before the turbo under full throttle and 10 psi, caused by a restrictive exhaust sytem, after the turbo, then you've got a difference of 15 psi.
Okay, let's keep the same 25 psi before the turbo but let's have you change your exhaust system so that you only have 5 psi of restriction under full throttle after the turbo. Now, you've got a difference of 20 psi which means you have the potential to do more work. This will get you faster spool and make more power. That's why turbo cars respond so well to exhaust upgrades.
Here's something I found on the web that explains this in more detail:
"It is a common misconception that the exhaust turbine half of a turbo is driven purely by the kinetic energy of the exhaust smacking into it (like holding a kid's tow pinwheel behind your tailpipe) While the kinetic energy of the exhaust flow does contribute to the work performed by the turbo, the vast majority of the energy transferred comes from a different source.
Keep in mind the relationship between heat, volume, and pressure when we talk about gasses. High heat, high pressure, and low volume are all high energy states, low heat, low pressure, and large volumes are low energy states. So our exhaust pulse exits the cylinder at high temperature and high pressure. It gets merged with other exhaust pulses, and enters the turbine inlet - a very small space.
At this point, we have very high pressure and very high heat, so our gas has a very high energy level. As it passes through the diffuser and into the turbine housing, it moves from a small space into a large one. Accordingly, it expands, cools, slows down, and dumps all that energy - into the turbine that we've so cleverly positioned in the housing so that as the gas expands, it pushes against the turbine blades, causing it to rotate. Presto! We've just recovered some energy from the heat of the exhaust, that otherwise would have been lost. This is a measurable effect: Stick an EGT upstream and downstream of the turbo, and you see a tremendous difference in temperature.
So, in real world terms, what does this tell us? All else being equal, The amount of work that can be done across an exhaust turbine is determined by the pressure differential at the inlet and outlet_ (in english, raise the turbo inlet pressure, lower the outlet pressure, or both, and you make more power) Pressure is heat, heat is pressure. Raising the inlet pressure is possible, but tough. Lowering the outlet pressure is easy - just bolt on a bigger, free flowing exhaust.
I've seen a couple of posts from people who added aftermarket exhausts, who report "my turbo spools up faster now" Well, that's because by lowering the outlet pressure, you increased the pressure differential, and now the exhaust gas can expand more, and do more work. That increased work pushes harder on your turbo, and it spools up faster. You should also see less boost drop at redline, because if an exhaust system is flow-limited, once you pass the flow limit of the system, any additional gasses you try and force through it only raise the outlet pressure. Higher outlet pressure, lower pressure differential, less work, less boost. "
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_fun.html
streetz PERSONALLY I wouldnt change my pre-turbo piping to 2". But thats just my preference (not much because of function, but because of cost to change exh piping... meh, lol). So long as its wrapped to increase the temps to the turbo, and thus the pressure, that's as far as I'd go. If you want to do it, go ahead and let us know how it goes (Im for real, lol. Im not knocking the idea, I really would be curious of how that would change the powerband and spoolup time etc... just dont want to do it myself, lol)
if I am not mistaken you will need to be careful not to use piping too small or it will create too much engine backpressure also hurting performance
Last edited by t6378tp; Feb 23, 2008 at 07:49 PM.



