First pics of my setup
08-23-2008, 05:17 PM
#1
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First pics of my setup
I finally decided to go turbo so here are few picture of my progress so far, I just install the IC and finished running pipes from the IC, just about to relocate the battery. Once that's done I'm going to start on feed pipe fabrication.
08-24-2008, 07:59 AM
#7
did you dyno that 3.5 while all-motor to see how its working out so far before sticking the turbo on it? What turbo are you going to run and how high is your realistic power goal? List more of what your setup is going to be meng! lol
Looking good so far though!
Looking good so far though!
08-24-2008, 09:01 AM
#9
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Im runing a T3/T4 60 trim turbo for now.
My realistic power goals are 300-320 hp, If ill get that Ill be happy.
as far as the rest of the setup
Tial 38mm wastegate, TurboXS BOV, Walbro 225 fuel pump, Inovative LC-1 Wideband, EB, Q45 Maf. Im probably forgetting something
08-24-2008, 10:29 AM
#11
Seems like an unimpressive goal for the amount of money and time involved to me.
08-24-2008, 11:04 AM
#13
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08-24-2008, 12:40 PM
#14
Well, I do agree with the numbers that's my minimum goal. I did 3.5 swap about about 2 years ago even before I was thinking about the turbo. And you right I can achieve that with the 3.0 turbo. I have to finish it first to see what power I will achieve to see where I can go for more. To tell you the truth my real goal is 400 but It doesn't seem to be all that realistic for a daily driver although I may be wrong. Also for my setup I'm also thinking of adding Meth/Water injection.
08-24-2008, 12:52 PM
#15
Yea i suggest to do the setup initially to handle ur maximum goal. That way you dont do things now for 300hp, then later on you wanna make it to 400hp an gotta change things around and add stuff like injectors, etc... so set everything up to be ready for 400, saves you time and money... thats my opinion anyway.
08-24-2008, 05:49 PM
#18
Ahhh 3.5 Boost 
I'm going that route pretty soon. Are you going to build it? If so A mild build would be under 1k with arp rod bolts arp head bolts,
arp main bolts and cometic headgasket etc. Looking good so far.
I'm going that route pretty soon. Are you going to build it? If so A mild build would be under 1k with arp rod bolts arp head bolts, arp main bolts and cometic headgasket etc. Looking good so far.
08-24-2008, 07:04 PM
#20
08-24-2008, 09:09 PM
#24
Problem? 
I'll bite.....
ARP rod bolts- 2 reasons......
1. Torque doesn't kill rod bolts, revs do. Unless he has pretty aggressive cams, he wouldn't be making power high enough to warrant revs above what the stock ones can handle.
2. The rod bolts by themselves cost around $160-190 shipped. You can get eagle rods, that come with bigger/stronger ARP rod bolts for 450+ shipping. If you do the math, you can essentially get rods for less than 300 bucks if you factor in the cost of bolts by themselves. In my case, found a set for a GREAT deal and it only cost me $250 more than if I had bought the bolts alone.
The bolts you can buy off the shelf are 7/16 8740 chromoly bolts. The ones that come with the eagles are 3/8 2000 series bolts. MUCH stronger.
ARP mains bolts- > 600 WHP has been made with the stock bolts. But if you're making enough power to overwhelm the stock bolts, the rest of your bottom end will need to be addressed. Moot point.
ARP head studs- According to what's transpired in the 350Z community, stock bolts > standard ARP studs (equal to, at the very least). To do better than stock, you have to go up to L19. With a stock unsleeved block though, non-TTY bolts can distort the block/head since they do not offer even clamping force like stock. You might be able to get away with it, but why risk it if there are better/cheaper options? HR head bolts are a perfect upgrade for most applications. Higher tensile strength, while still providing the consistent clamping force of torque-to-yield bolts. I know this is a controversial topic but please see this thread for reference:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/forced-i...3-0-build.html
625 WHP using stock VQ35HR head gaskets and bolts. Props to JWT since they initially shared the info concerning these items here: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
The superior coolant routing of the HR HG's and Evans waterless coolant address the head lift issue (pockets of boiling coolant around the combustion chamber) at the source instead of blindly throwing higher clamping force at the head; which could ultimately exacerbate the issue without sleeving. That's why he can run the "modest" VQ35HR head bolts and not experience head lift.
Cometic head gasket- Your rods will likely fail before a stock 3-layer 350Z head gasket or (even better) VQ35HR piece fails (if the tune is on point). Again, see the included links to see why less is sometimes more.
K? =P
You're right though. I should've explained myself the first time. Just lazy I guess...
P.S. Judging by his HP goals, all of this stuff is irrelevant.
I'll bite.....
ARP rod bolts- 2 reasons......
1. Torque doesn't kill rod bolts, revs do. Unless he has pretty aggressive cams, he wouldn't be making power high enough to warrant revs above what the stock ones can handle.
2. The rod bolts by themselves cost around $160-190 shipped. You can get eagle rods, that come with bigger/stronger ARP rod bolts for 450+ shipping. If you do the math, you can essentially get rods for less than 300 bucks if you factor in the cost of bolts by themselves. In my case, found a set for a GREAT deal and it only cost me $250 more than if I had bought the bolts alone.
The bolts you can buy off the shelf are 7/16 8740 chromoly bolts. The ones that come with the eagles are 3/8 2000 series bolts. MUCH stronger.
ARP mains bolts- > 600 WHP has been made with the stock bolts. But if you're making enough power to overwhelm the stock bolts, the rest of your bottom end will need to be addressed. Moot point.
ARP head studs- According to what's transpired in the 350Z community, stock bolts > standard ARP studs (equal to, at the very least). To do better than stock, you have to go up to L19. With a stock unsleeved block though, non-TTY bolts can distort the block/head since they do not offer even clamping force like stock. You might be able to get away with it, but why risk it if there are better/cheaper options? HR head bolts are a perfect upgrade for most applications. Higher tensile strength, while still providing the consistent clamping force of torque-to-yield bolts. I know this is a controversial topic but please see this thread for reference:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/forced-i...3-0-build.html
625 WHP using stock VQ35HR head gaskets and bolts. Props to JWT since they initially shared the info concerning these items here: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
The superior coolant routing of the HR HG's and Evans waterless coolant address the head lift issue (pockets of boiling coolant around the combustion chamber) at the source instead of blindly throwing higher clamping force at the head; which could ultimately exacerbate the issue without sleeving. That's why he can run the "modest" VQ35HR head bolts and not experience head lift.
Cometic head gasket- Your rods will likely fail before a stock 3-layer 350Z head gasket or (even better) VQ35HR piece fails (if the tune is on point). Again, see the included links to see why less is sometimes more.
K? =P
You're right though. I should've explained myself the first time. Just lazy I guess...
P.S. Judging by his HP goals, all of this stuff is irrelevant.
Last edited by nismology; 08-24-2008 at 10:11 PM.
08-24-2008, 09:49 PM
#25
Informative. Well where can I find these parts(eagle rods, Hr, etc) at for a decent price? I'm looking to put down between 420whp-450whp with boost, and Im trying to find the best parts to source a mild build.
Problem?
I'll bite.....
ARP rod bolts- 2 reasons......
1. Torque doesn't kill rod bolts, revs do. Unless he has pretty aggressive cams, he wouldn't be making power high enough to warrant revs above what the stock ones can handle.
2. The rod bolts by themselves cost around $160-190 shipped. You can get eagle rods, that come with bigger/stronger ARP rod bolts for 450+ shipping. If you do the math, you can essentially get rods for less than 300 bucks if you factor in the cost of bolts by themselves. In my case, found a set for a GREAT deal and it only cost me $250 more than if I had bought the bolts alone.
The bolts you can buy off the shelf are 7/16 8740 chromoly bolts. The ones that come with the eagles are 3/8 2000 series bolts. MUCH stronger.
ARP mains bolts- > 600 WHP has been made with the stock bolts. But if you're making enough power to overwhelm the stock bolts, the rest of your bottom end will need to be addressed. Moot point.
ARP head studs- According to what's transpired in the 350Z community, stock bolts > standard ARP studs (equal to, at the very least). To do better than stock, you have to go up to L19. With a stock unsleeved block though, non-TTY bolts can distort the block/head since they do not offer even clamping force like stock. You might be able to get away with it, but why risk it if there are better/cheaper options? HR rod bolts are a perfect upgrade for most applications. Higher tensile strength, while still providing the consistent clamping force of torque-to-yield bolts. I know this is a controversion topic but please see this thread for reference:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/forced-i...3-0-build.html
625 WHP using stock VQ35HR head gaskets and bolts. Props to JWT since they initially shared the info concerning these items here: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
The superior coolant routing of the HR HG's and Evans waterless coolant address the head lift issue (pockets of boiling coolant around the combustion chamber) at the source instead of blindly throwing higher clamping force at the head; which could ultimately exacerbate the issue without sleeving. That's why he can run the "modest" VQ35HR head bolts and not experience head lift.
Cometic head gasket- Your rods will likely fail before a stock 3-layer 350Z head gasket or (even better) VQ35HR piece fails (if the tune is on point). Again, see the included links to see why less is sometimes more.
K? =P
You're right though. I should've explained myself the first time. Just lazy I guess...
P.S. Judging by his HP goals, all of this stuff is irrelevant.
I'll bite.....
ARP rod bolts- 2 reasons......
1. Torque doesn't kill rod bolts, revs do. Unless he has pretty aggressive cams, he wouldn't be making power high enough to warrant revs above what the stock ones can handle.
2. The rod bolts by themselves cost around $160-190 shipped. You can get eagle rods, that come with bigger/stronger ARP rod bolts for 450+ shipping. If you do the math, you can essentially get rods for less than 300 bucks if you factor in the cost of bolts by themselves. In my case, found a set for a GREAT deal and it only cost me $250 more than if I had bought the bolts alone.
The bolts you can buy off the shelf are 7/16 8740 chromoly bolts. The ones that come with the eagles are 3/8 2000 series bolts. MUCH stronger.
ARP mains bolts- > 600 WHP has been made with the stock bolts. But if you're making enough power to overwhelm the stock bolts, the rest of your bottom end will need to be addressed. Moot point.
ARP head studs- According to what's transpired in the 350Z community, stock bolts > standard ARP studs (equal to, at the very least). To do better than stock, you have to go up to L19. With a stock unsleeved block though, non-TTY bolts can distort the block/head since they do not offer even clamping force like stock. You might be able to get away with it, but why risk it if there are better/cheaper options? HR rod bolts are a perfect upgrade for most applications. Higher tensile strength, while still providing the consistent clamping force of torque-to-yield bolts. I know this is a controversion topic but please see this thread for reference:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/forced-i...3-0-build.html
625 WHP using stock VQ35HR head gaskets and bolts. Props to JWT since they initially shared the info concerning these items here: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
The superior coolant routing of the HR HG's and Evans waterless coolant address the head lift issue (pockets of boiling coolant around the combustion chamber) at the source instead of blindly throwing higher clamping force at the head; which could ultimately exacerbate the issue without sleeving. That's why he can run the "modest" VQ35HR head bolts and not experience head lift.
Cometic head gasket- Your rods will likely fail before a stock 3-layer 350Z head gasket or (even better) VQ35HR piece fails (if the tune is on point). Again, see the included links to see why less is sometimes more.
K? =P
You're right though. I should've explained myself the first time. Just lazy I guess...
P.S. Judging by his HP goals, all of this stuff is irrelevant.
08-24-2008, 09:58 PM
#26
The eagles I got on ebay. The HR stuff you can get from Dave B.
Based on your goals though, I wouldn't bother with the bottom end. I'd just install the HR head gaskets/bolts and call it a day. Installing the HR head gaskets can get messy though. You have to remove some material from the block to increase coolant flow and the shavings could get everywhere. If you cover all the holes including the cylinder you might be able to to do it w/out having to gut the block.
Motor out of the car? Plan on tearing it down anyway?
Based on your goals though, I wouldn't bother with the bottom end. I'd just install the HR head gaskets/bolts and call it a day. Installing the HR head gaskets can get messy though. You have to remove some material from the block to increase coolant flow and the shavings could get everywhere. If you cover all the holes including the cylinder you might be able to to do it w/out having to gut the block.
Motor out of the car? Plan on tearing it down anyway?
08-24-2008, 10:04 PM
#27
Yup motor will be out. I might possibly have it fully built, depending on funds and time.
The eagles I got on ebay. The HR stuff you can get from Dave B.
Based on your goals though, I wouldn't bother with the bottom end. I'd just install the HR head gaskets/bolts and call it a day. Installing the HR head gaskets can get messy though. You have to remove some material from the block to increase coolant flow and the shavings could get everywhere. If you cover all the holes including the cylinder you might be able to to do it w/out having to gut the block.
Motor out of the car? Plan on tearing it down anyway?
Based on your goals though, I wouldn't bother with the bottom end. I'd just install the HR head gaskets/bolts and call it a day. Installing the HR head gaskets can get messy though. You have to remove some material from the block to increase coolant flow and the shavings could get everywhere. If you cover all the holes including the cylinder you might be able to to do it w/out having to gut the block.
Motor out of the car? Plan on tearing it down anyway?
08-24-2008, 10:41 PM
#29
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Don't worry about cluttering the post, But I had no intentions to built the motor well at this time anyways. Maybe in the future Ill get another 3.5 and build it. As far as my power goals they seem to be not really high as it seems. I just want similar power to what my DSM used to have before I sold it. That's why 300 seems a good goal, But from the looks of the setup and researching other people setup I would have to say that If ill get bigger Injectors I will defenaly might strive for more power. Currently my wastegate spring is set to about 7-8 psi so that's will be a start. I'm expecting about another week of work to finish it up. Welding with out a lift might be little thought.
08-25-2008, 02:39 PM
#30
Like I said if FUNDS and TIME allow. I'm still researching the right way to build the motor, I don't want to half a$$ it. So you will be getting pm's from me here and there in the quest to build the mighty VQ 
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