soo i just fully completed my supercharger install and wow is it amazing suchh a huge difference over stock...i love it!! heres sum pics..btw its a dek motor too





i still got sum cleaning up to do in the engine bay with sum wires and vac lines and stuff but as of now thats how it looks..

 

nice!

 

Congrats on the boost. What's that thing plugged in by the s/c?

 

oil pressure sender for my oil pressure gauge

 

good job my friend when we meeting up so i can buy the stuff off of you

 

Very Nice...

How much boost are you running?

 

9 pounds...and jonblz as soon as u want just txt me or pm me and let me know

 

tourqe steer is a KILLERRR!!! its mandatory i hold on to the wheel with 2 hands or ill run off the road into a tree!! hahaha ohh and i aint runnin power steering that could be a reason too!lol

 

Fresh.

 

Get lsd and its not as bad.

 

a lsd trans will help with the tourqe steer?

 

It will tame it alot.

 

thanks for the help bro...i gatta find me a lsd transs asap haha

 

going to get DYNO TUNED today at R/T tuning in pa..wish me luck on sum good numbers hahaha

 

interested in numbers as well.

are you auto or 5spd by the way?

 

Good luck man! It looks great. Hopefully you dont have the belt slip issues I had. Also, I have polyurethane motor mounts and subframe bushings and these helped ALOT with the traction/a little with torque steer. The best $110 I ever spent.

 

ok great news!!!! NOT!....do not go to r/t tuning in pa...i got ripped the FUUUUUDGEEEE off...okay heres how it went...got on the dyno did a couple pulls...tried adjusting the CARTECH fmu and nothing was helping the severe leaning problem up top...soo he dove into a few things that could be causeing it..wound up spending 5 hours there and nothing worked couldnt figure out why it was leaning up top...he had changed 4 small little fuel lines cause they were the wrong fuel hose material ( wasnt ment for high pressure) and that didnt work then checked my fuel pump to make sure everything looked okay and changed that small little hose from the pump to the sending unit....the total work he did was probaly about a hour hour inna half TOPS of labor charge...this guy charged me 400 DOLLARS for a few fuel lines and to check my fuel pump...and for 5 half asssss dyno pulls that were only up to about 5300 rpms cause of the bad leaning problem...he wound up sending me home with the car actually running worse then it did when i went to him and i came home with 400 dollars less...actually he knocked of 50 bucks for a few dyno pulls..which was bs...im soooo effin mad right now idk what to do with this frigin car...and the leaning problem is still not fixed and sumthing else is wrong to that i cant figure out...my bov isnt opening up unless i stomp on the trottle at idle and then it sticks open..

 

btw the car made 275WHP with the leaning problem and not even tuned or nothing yet...which is in my mind pretty dam good numbers...and i didnt even hit full boost yet...i hit 7 pounds..and i have a 9 pound pulley on

 

5 hours and some dyno pulls for $400 isn't bad at all. I understand you're frustrated, and rightfully so, your Max is not running to its full potential and you spent $400 (for nothing IYO). But remember, time is money. Troubleshooting is very time consuming, and often very little actual work gets done over the course of time. You're just looking at the bottom line. He changed a few hoses, inspected a few things blah blah blah. That's the wrong approach. If the shop is experienced and the tech knows what he's doing, the $400 at least tells you what's not wrong with your car (what he checked/replaced).

IMO, ditch the Cartech for now and put on a Vortech FMU to see if that eliminates your problem. Then start diagnosing your BOV.

 

thanks for the help wizard.. im just annoyed that i spent all that money and nothing got done...ya know

 

sucks about r/t tuning quite a few people went there had good experiences... They are a lil over priced but there work is decent

 

dude there not bad i mean the guy seems to know what hes doing but for 400 bucks and no answer as to y im lossing fp?? idk...

 

My first hunch is your Cartech FMU is not set right, or it's broken. Did the mechanic offer the possibility that your FMU might be busted??

Post up your mod list again and I'll take a look for any possible culprits.

 

he didnt metion that it could be my cartech but hey ya never know it could be busted...he gave me another walbro 255 to try maybe my walbro isnt working properly and not giving the pressure i need up top...i have a couple things i wanna try before i call it quits with a no idea whatt it could be answer....my mod list is v1 blower matty kit k and n pan filter cartech fmu headers y pipe high flow cat custom catback blitz bov dek swap stage 3 comp clutch fidanza flywheel walbro hp fuel pump

 

Yeah, the only other culprit is the Walbro.

Do you have the stock strainer on your Walbro? Plenty of gas while in the mechanics hands?

So you take it to redline, and your boost gauge reads 7lbs, instead of 9lbs, right?

 

noo it reads 9 but he wasnt able to hit nine cause he never took it to 6600

 

okay i redid sum vac lines and stuff and now my bov works again magiclly...okay now with a s/c max with a blitz bov is it suppose to stay open while decelerating? my bov stays open the whole time i decelerating

 

Yup, that's normal.

 

its normal for the bov to stay open while decelerating?? and when i rev it up in neutral and it falls back down to idle the bov doesnt close all the way it stays open like a quarter of the way

 

You might need to adjust the BOV if its adjustable. While decelerating there is more vacum so yea it will be open. its normal. however while in idle, you may need to make it tighter so at idle its closed completely. Mine actually would whistle while in idle cuz it was open very very slightly. just adjust it you should be fine.

 

If it's closed at idle, he'll get compressor surge. It should be open at idle.

 

wizard i cant thank u enough for the help bro! i appreciate it...now any tips on this fuel pressure issue im having?? i think its either A the fuel pump or B the fmu

 

Still waiting for answers to my other q's in post #25.

 

oh my bad, never had hands on experience with s/c but that makes sense. disregard my post then lol

 

yeah stock strainer on the walbro and yeah there was gas and no im running 9 pounds but he didnt take it to redline cause it was leaning out really bad..

 

i wouldnt be able to ditch the cartech and run just the walbro with a safc and stock injectors would i??

 

change the disc in the FMU to a 6:1 and get some 350Z injectors they are better bro

 

Z33 non-revup injectors = DEK Injectors
Same part numbers believe it or not

PERSONALLY (if the budget allows), I would just get rid of the entire FMU deal (I was never a fan of that pre-historic tuning device) and just get bigger injectors, 440cc at the very least. That would save you all these headaches you're having with changing discs and make troubleshooting a lot easier. Also would make tuning a lot easier.

Question, is the FMU the only thing you are using for tuning?

BTW, despite the troubles, congratulations on getting this up and running!

 

Certainly not. You need some sort of FMU when using stock injectors. Hopefully you can borrow a standard OBX or Vortech FMU from someone and see if that fixes your issue.

Not necessary IMO at the OP's power level.

 

Out of curiousity, where are you pulling vac from? Also, are you sharing vac. for all of your items?
What FP are you seeing at idle and at WOT?
Got a copy of the dyno run? Curious to see where it actually begins to go lean at.