DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH SER_ALTIMA until he handles his current transactions
#42
So over the last few months, I have been piecing together a turbo kit for my 5.5 gen 6-spd HLSD. I have listed 2 different sections of what I have and what I need still. Feel free if you have something on the "need" list that you want to get rid of shoot me a reply or PM. Thanks
Purchased:
- Garrett 60-1 Journal Bearing Turbo
- Tial 38mm wastegate
- 3" custom down-pipe
- Custom reverse y-pipe (mounts to turbo)
- 3" custom CAI
- 2.5" custom ICP
- K&N Cone Filter
- Godspeed Front Mount Intercooler
- Custom fit steel braided oil feed/return lines
- Auto Meter Boost Gauge
- Auto Meter Oil Pressure Gauge
- Zeitronix Wide band/datalogger
- Walbro 255
Need:
- BOV
- Z32 MAF
- Emanage Ultimate w/ harness (NEED BADLY)
- 440 or 555cc Injectors
Purchased:
- Garrett 60-1 Journal Bearing Turbo
- Tial 38mm wastegate
- 3" custom down-pipe
- Custom reverse y-pipe (mounts to turbo)
- 3" custom CAI
- 2.5" custom ICP
- K&N Cone Filter
- Godspeed Front Mount Intercooler
- Custom fit steel braided oil feed/return lines
- Auto Meter Boost Gauge
- Auto Meter Oil Pressure Gauge
- Zeitronix Wide band/datalogger
- Walbro 255
Need:
- BOV
- Z32 MAF
- Emanage Ultimate w/ harness (NEED BADLY)
- 440 or 555cc Injectors
Either way, i cant wait to see this!!
#43
DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS MEMBER - OWES PEOPLE MONEY
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,468
From: Greensboro, NC
to OP: It's possible that the UPREV Osirus tuner (PC-based tuning/reflash program like HPtuners for most GMs) will work with our ECU. I'm currently trying to get in contact with someone to see if they will let me return the product if it doesn't work with this vehicle.
#45
Yep I am turboing Merlyns old car. I no longer have the SE-R. Sold it for business reasons, loved the SE-R Altima, wish I had it stilll But this Maxima is gonna be quick and I have it lowered on the 18" G35 wheels so it is clean.
#47
What are you going to use as fuel managment?
deatschwerks makes injectors that are a direct drop in. Would 600cc be too big though or would 440cc be plenty enough?
deatschwerks makes injectors that are a direct drop in. Would 600cc be too big though or would 440cc be plenty enough?
#48
I am going to use Emanage Ultimate and 440s will be good until i go with a T67 (built motor) and then 600s will come in to play.
#49
you could use 600s just tune them properly and you will be fine. You may need to play with fuel pressure too to get a nice balance. This way you'll be ready for down the line when your ready to upgrade... depends on the how high the duty cycle is on the 440s @ your desired boost level.
#52
Tearing out the transmission right now the freakin input shaft bearing is out I believe... but hey couldnt be a better time everything was going to be pulled apart anyway. Better now.. so at the same time Im going to replace both input shaft bearing and throw out bearing with OEM Nissan instead of the Exedy bearing. So install will perceed Monday. Will keep you guys updated with pics and such.
#53
Okay guys after a painful week of waiting for parts, changing things up on the fly... and a billion trips to machine shops, lowes, performance shops, mcdonalds, etc...
I have transmission back in with a Spec Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Light Weight Flywheel (re-surfaced), I had to do this due to a a faulty Exedy Stage 1 Clutch that broke apart at the disc Piece of $Hit! Called Exedy and they could care less and would not give me the time of day. Sad thing is, it only had 5k miles on it. Anyway, called Spec on Monday, Ordered it Tuesday, it shipped out sameday and had it Thursday. We installed it, through the tranny back on.
Had to make sure the turbo was getting oil, so tapped into the block, wasnt TOO TOO hard, but you just HAVE to make sure the fitting you use is super tight and sealed as you dont want to leak oil, also take into consideration where you locate it so running the line wont have any problems in terms of backing the oil up.. you will have oil blowing past your turbo seals at that point then. Feed line is easy just used stock oil pressure sensor location, with a T fitting from turbonetics and BAM done, connect feed line, and connect your oil pressure sensor.
Next was to re-locate the battery since it had not been done yet, this was done with a Summit Racing Battery relocation kit, not hard, took about an hour.
One hard part was getting the down pipe, and reverse y-pipe to bolt up to stock manifolds since that is what the kit uses, it was a pain in the rear, but got it done. In the mean time, while under the car and bolting up downpipe, particles got in my eye and I had to drive to a Medclinic to get the shavings removed. Sucked, but ill live.
At this point, I have decided to get a slighlty bigger turbo then what I have, and that should be here Tuesday, and we will just bolt that right in connect some feed lines, return lines, etc and be good to go Well, nothing went on easy, the Maxi gave me trouble the WHOLE way, so I dont expect smoothe sailing from here lol
Tomorrow we put on and modify some intercooler piping, mount the intercooler, put on the front wheels, put some oil, tranny fluid, and coolant, lower her, and wait for turbo to come in.
Will let you know when she is up and running.
I have transmission back in with a Spec Stage 4 Clutch and Fidanza Light Weight Flywheel (re-surfaced), I had to do this due to a a faulty Exedy Stage 1 Clutch that broke apart at the disc Piece of $Hit! Called Exedy and they could care less and would not give me the time of day. Sad thing is, it only had 5k miles on it. Anyway, called Spec on Monday, Ordered it Tuesday, it shipped out sameday and had it Thursday. We installed it, through the tranny back on.
Had to make sure the turbo was getting oil, so tapped into the block, wasnt TOO TOO hard, but you just HAVE to make sure the fitting you use is super tight and sealed as you dont want to leak oil, also take into consideration where you locate it so running the line wont have any problems in terms of backing the oil up.. you will have oil blowing past your turbo seals at that point then. Feed line is easy just used stock oil pressure sensor location, with a T fitting from turbonetics and BAM done, connect feed line, and connect your oil pressure sensor.
Next was to re-locate the battery since it had not been done yet, this was done with a Summit Racing Battery relocation kit, not hard, took about an hour.
One hard part was getting the down pipe, and reverse y-pipe to bolt up to stock manifolds since that is what the kit uses, it was a pain in the rear, but got it done. In the mean time, while under the car and bolting up downpipe, particles got in my eye and I had to drive to a Medclinic to get the shavings removed. Sucked, but ill live.
At this point, I have decided to get a slighlty bigger turbo then what I have, and that should be here Tuesday, and we will just bolt that right in connect some feed lines, return lines, etc and be good to go Well, nothing went on easy, the Maxi gave me trouble the WHOLE way, so I dont expect smoothe sailing from here lol
Tomorrow we put on and modify some intercooler piping, mount the intercooler, put on the front wheels, put some oil, tranny fluid, and coolant, lower her, and wait for turbo to come in.
Will let you know when she is up and running.
#54
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
It's always the stuff that you think is going to take 5 minutes that ends up going on 5 hr's not including getting crap out of your eye, but damn sounds like you had it rough. Patience will be worth it when your system is TROUBLE FREE and you're confident it will stay that way, little things like slicing thick hose down one side & wrapping it parts of the feed line, extra time zip-tying stuff just right, etc goes a long way. Leaks suck, sounds like it's going to be a quality install.
Don't know if you got a BOV yet, but you'll want a recirculating set-up OR an engine managment with an anti stall feature. (edit) I see you have that with the EU. Not to take this back to the engine managment discussion but I've found the eu's tend to break alot, just my .02
Don't know if you got a BOV yet, but you'll want a recirculating set-up OR an engine managment with an anti stall feature. (edit) I see you have that with the EU. Not to take this back to the engine managment discussion but I've found the eu's tend to break alot, just my .02
#56
Im going to go take some pics right now for my local forum as well.. but here are SOME pics when we were taking everything apart.
#58
No I had bought the 601 with a T3 Flange by accident.. im letting that go now to the first person who offers me money as i need the cash lol.. I now have the T4.
#59
It's great to see you are making progress. I cannot wait to see pictures of it installed. By the way, in what way did you have to modify the intercooler piping? I'm putting the turbo in the mail in an hour and will let you know when I do.
#60
I had to locate where it went down in front of engine because the longer charge pipe that had gone across the section of the engine where the valve cover was at was too tight against one of the coolant passage locations for the radiator, as well as the the bottom part of the frame in front of the car hangs too low, so I am assuming since this kit was made for a VQ35 ON a 4th gen, the frame is different just slightly to where it affects how the piping mochs up to everything.
#61
I had to locate where it went down in front of engine because the longer charge pipe that had gone across the section of the engine where the valve cover was at was too tight against one of the coolant passage locations for the radiator, as well as the the bottom part of the frame in front of the car hangs too low, so I am assuming since this kit was made for a VQ35 ON a 4th gen, the frame is different just slightly to where it affects how the piping mochs up to everything.
#63
ok guys got everything on it looks sweet.. problem is i went to start it to make sure everything was good to go and it idles but it wont start.. a buddy came over and we checked all IC piping by pressure testing it and we had some leaks MAJOR ones.. BUT fixed them all.
When the car tries to start its like the starter is running the car, even when i give it throttle a bit it does not help. We checked all electrical connections and they are good to go.
We replaced the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.. could anything been messed up in the process with timing? Does the flywheel have to be put back on a certain way or ECU flashed aftwerwards? Im just trying to find anything. ANy help would be great.
Oh and last thing we have got to the point where we put the intake back on throttle body with MAF hooked up so it is NA right now. I do not have my EMU yet but it should fire over and idle fine. HELPP
When the car tries to start its like the starter is running the car, even when i give it throttle a bit it does not help. We checked all electrical connections and they are good to go.
We replaced the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.. could anything been messed up in the process with timing? Does the flywheel have to be put back on a certain way or ECU flashed aftwerwards? Im just trying to find anything. ANy help would be great.
Oh and last thing we have got to the point where we put the intake back on throttle body with MAF hooked up so it is NA right now. I do not have my EMU yet but it should fire over and idle fine. HELPP
#64
ok guys got everything on it looks sweet.. problem is i went to start it to make sure everything was good to go and it idles but it wont start.. a buddy came over and we checked all IC piping by pressure testing it and we had some leaks MAJOR ones.. BUT fixed them all.
When the car tries to start its like the starter is running the car, even when i give it throttle a bit it does not help. We checked all electrical connections and they are good to go.
We replaced the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.. could anything been messed up in the process with timing? Does the flywheel have to be put back on a certain way or ECU flashed aftwerwards? Im just trying to find anything. ANy help would be great.
Oh and last thing we have got to the point where we put the intake back on throttle body with MAF hooked up so it is NA right now. I do not have my EMU yet but it should fire over and idle fine. HELPP
When the car tries to start its like the starter is running the car, even when i give it throttle a bit it does not help. We checked all electrical connections and they are good to go.
We replaced the clutch and had flywheel resurfaced.. could anything been messed up in the process with timing? Does the flywheel have to be put back on a certain way or ECU flashed aftwerwards? Im just trying to find anything. ANy help would be great.
Oh and last thing we have got to the point where we put the intake back on throttle body with MAF hooked up so it is NA right now. I do not have my EMU yet but it should fire over and idle fine. HELPP
#65
Did you plug the CPS back in? I cant remember, but on the 6spd, dont you have to index the flywheel? Could be confusing myself with auto tranny, but i seem to recall something.
Did you drop or bang the maf around at all?
Did you drop or bang the maf around at all?
#66
Yes we checked the crank position sensor several times and its plugged in.. we pulled the plugs and it reeked of gas it is flooded.. i bought new plugs just to see what the deal was and tried to turn it over a few times and they were soaked.. i believe it has a very very weak spark or not firing at all so something electrical im not sure.
#68
nope nothing has been changed with fuel or anything.. i think i forgot to align flywheel notch with crank sensor.. oops could that be it?
#69
How are you getting fuel pressure ?
Did pull out the Coil pack and see if theres spark ?
Do you have any CEL lights ? trying clearing the codes/
We just went thru this lately at my shop with a 3.5 A33.5
How are you running your fuel system btw ?
#71
The car came with an aftermarket fuel pump already a walbro.. I have not puilled coil packs yet to see if there is spark or not. I borrowed an OBDII reader and it stated NO codes which is very odd because before I did all this work there were codes on there for the cats due to me having aftermarket ones, so Im not sure if computer cleared them after having no power for over a week or what.
Fuel pressure like you asked is still stock FPR, no need to change yet, nothing with fuel has been tampered with so it should all work fine.
I believe its a bad ground somewhere and/or the crank angle position sensor, I dont believe we lined it up correctly when putting flywheel (after getting it turned at machine shop) back on to input shaft, which could really be making the ECU go nuts.
Fuel pressure like you asked is still stock FPR, no need to change yet, nothing with fuel has been tampered with so it should all work fine.
I believe its a bad ground somewhere and/or the crank angle position sensor, I dont believe we lined it up correctly when putting flywheel (after getting it turned at machine shop) back on to input shaft, which could really be making the ECU go nuts.
#72
The car came with an aftermarket fuel pump already a walbro.. I have not puilled coil packs yet to see if there is spark or not. I borrowed an OBDII reader and it stated NO codes which is very odd because before I did all this work there were codes on there for the cats due to me having aftermarket ones, so Im not sure if computer cleared them after having no power for over a week or what.
Fuel pressure like you asked is still stock FPR, no need to change yet, nothing with fuel has been tampered with so it should all work fine.
I believe its a bad ground somewhere and/or the crank angle position sensor, I dont believe we lined it up correctly when putting flywheel (after getting it turned at machine shop) back on to input shaft, which could really be making the ECU go nuts.
Fuel pressure like you asked is still stock FPR, no need to change yet, nothing with fuel has been tampered with so it should all work fine.
I believe its a bad ground somewhere and/or the crank angle position sensor, I dont believe we lined it up correctly when putting flywheel (after getting it turned at machine shop) back on to input shaft, which could really be making the ECU go nuts.
Fuel pressure cannot be stock if your running a Walbro, but even with it you should be able to start it.
Last edited by Flava_24/7; 03-20-2009 at 06:37 AM.
#73
Start rechecking the simple stuff. We recently finished some engine work on a 3.5 4th gen maxima. It was running perfect before but when we put everything back together it wouldnt start.
We rechecked all wiring and sensors. Eliminated all vacum leaks and what not. But all we ended up doing was add another ground under the hood and it started up just fine.
We rechecked all wiring and sensors. Eliminated all vacum leaks and what not. But all we ended up doing was add another ground under the hood and it started up just fine.
#74
Start rechecking the simple stuff. We recently finished some engine work on a 3.5 4th gen maxima. It was running perfect before but when we put everything back together it wouldnt start.
We rechecked all wiring and sensors. Eliminated all vacum leaks and what not. But all we ended up doing was add another ground under the hood and it started up just fine.
We rechecked all wiring and sensors. Eliminated all vacum leaks and what not. But all we ended up doing was add another ground under the hood and it started up just fine.
#76
Okay I had car dropped off at my buddies garage, he works on Infinitis all day, so hopefully he can get it worked out. Im sure he is going to look over the grounds and such.
#78
Will do.. turbo that was sent to me had bad seals so it needs new ones.. Hopefully will get car back not this week but next
#79