So I am wondering if any of you guys have upgraded your fans to something that flow more. Someone i know with a z32 said he put on a Ford taurus SHO fan along with a thermal switch set at w/e temp you want, he says it flows like crazy.. just wanted to get some input on this, if its even something to consider for my application (turbo+3.5)

 

I've also heard of the Taurus' 2-speed electric fans being used on other turbo'd cars for its impressive flow rates compared to even aftermarket electric fans.

 

I've heard the same thing.

Streetz, I say go for it. The Taurus fans sound like a good, cheap bet and at the most would probably require you to fabricate a few easy brackets to hold it up. I don't see any reason why you SHOULDN'T do this, barring expense

 

Hey now. If you want i still have acess to most of my SHO buddies man lol. I can try as well if you would like.

 

I have one on my s14, stock KA radiator on it still too. Ive never used it on high to be honest lol. Low mode is pretty powerful by itself. High mode puts a good bit of draw from what i have read also.

 

Are you using a actual SHO fan or SLO fan? SLo being the 3.8 pushrod pig and some know what a SHO is. Let me know what one and i can more than likely find them as i was in the taurus community for a while.

 

I believe they're off the 3.8L's I.E. Taurus, Sable ect.

 

correct

 

Pointless if you ask me. If you want to upgrade cooling get a real radiator not that half inch thick BS that comes stock (I think you might already have one of these?) Radiator fan only comes in to play when you're stuck in stop and go traffic, and in stop and go traffic, you aren't boosting creating any heat anyways. Once moving the coolant cools sufficiently to not require the radiator fan to be on.

 

Waterless coolant.

 

I see's, Actually nealoc I just took off the all aluminum radiator I had. did some logging and the stock radiator is more efficient than the aluminum I had, for w/e reason. with stock it cools faster, temps went down to 179 while on highway, and while at a stop with a/c on. with the aluminum radiator, it always stayed in the low 200's high 190's, never below 185 ever, and took alot longer to cool. Maybe its the particular radiator I had (basically SLIGHTLY thicker than stock, and the banks all aluminum)

I just purchased an adjustable fan controller, which I will be setting to about 180 or so, I dont like the ecu letting the temp get to 204(based on my logging) for the fans to kick in.

Im also going to look into the waterless you n nismology have talked to me about.

 

funny I was just talking to another org member about your rad, correct me if I am wrong you have the ebay knock off or the orignal

 

I have the ebay knock off, not as thick as the griffin, but at the moment it was actually cheaper than getting a stock one.

 

I just it must have less coolant capacity or rows than the stock rad, is it possible to have the side tanks from the ebay rad put on the stock rad

I remember when the rad in my caddy went I had this done for a 100bucks

 

I'm not so sure that new fans would help any. I just plan on doing jimes' fan mod to put switches in the cabin to be able to turn the hi/lo fans on whenever I want.

 

I've always heard about the SHO fans and how well they flow, that is a good option but I'd hope the well isnt drying up as many still are on the hunt for those fans.

I would think a good benefits could be seen with a thicker aluminum radiator, good coolant (heard good things about the toyota red coolant), maybe water wetter...

Plus the additional coolant option the rwd 3.5's have can be done on a FWD 3.5. I'll snap pics but once you drill thru it leads straight into coolant between the cylinders. Just another option

 

are you talking about the Pathfinder coolant pipe ?

 

yes and where it connects to the block. on FWD there is no openining, but if one is drilled or dremeled out, it will function similar to the RWD...with additional hardware naturally

 

Interesting discussion. I have been thinking about a way to kick my fans on sooner in order to lower my coolant temperature more than what the ecu has programmed. The ability to change this setting between summer/winter or when going to the track is exactly what I had in mind. It was mentioned there is a programmable/adjustable switch to do this.....I assume part of this set up requires simply tapping into the stock temp sensor? Can I get some feedback/direction about where I could pick one of these switches? What is the best one recommended (as I will definately be looking around)? Thanks!

 

Yea thats not too hard to do, I purchased a "electric fan controller", that basically comes with a probe that you stick between the radiator fins as the temp sensor, then it hooks up to a relay/controller device with a **** that you adjust at what temperature you want it to power the fans. you can set it between 160 and 190 I believe, but it gives you a good range to select. I have not installed it yet, but its a good way to bypass the ecu and control it how you want it.

 

i have the griffen rad on my 96 maxima I put it in when i did my turbo.. and well even and I run the a/c alot in florida where it is hot year around never over heated once!! works great and now I have the 3.5l still with no problems.. and my turbo is like 3 inches from the radiator.. still no problems.. just spend the money put in a griffen and be done with it..!!

 

I am running a 3.8 ford fan on my jeep cherokee. I did this to switch over from a clutch driven fan and I am controlling it with a thermostat that works off of the reading of the probe that you jam though the fins of the radiator. I only have mine wired for low speed because I did not want to do the wiring for the high speed. It would take more relays to do it right.

 

Would you be kind enough to share your set-up with me once this is done ? I'm very interested in a set-up like this, on the other hand if I can share any info that I used for my build I'd be more than happy to help.

Cheers

AA

 

I haven't done this yet because i am currently building my motor. But how I was going to do it is basically, put the probe that came with the lil kit, into the radiator, then mount the relay that comes with it on the rad support. then run power to it, and run the signal cable of it into the cabin and tap it into the ecu's high fan wire (which Jime shows us on his website). Then turn on the car, let it warm up, and turn the lil **** thats on the relay of the kit. say u want fan to turn on at 180, while temp is 180 you turn the **** till fans turn on, once it goes below that it will turn off.

Problem with this, is that Aaron pointed out to me is that, the fans are going to be turning on and off ALOT, since it doesn't give you a range from on and off, meaning, its only set at 180, below 180 off, above 180 on. The ideal thing would be, for it to turn on at 180, then off at like 170 for example. that way does not turn on and off as often. The solution would be to get a different kit. but for now. im not going to bother, i still have the one i got sitting here unused.

 

You know, if you attach the probe sensor tightly to a small chunk of aluminum and mount it behind the radiator - or touching on the back of it - then the sensor won't change temp as fast. The lighter the sensor, the faster it will change temperature. Adding mass to the sensor will slow down the sensor changing temperature.

 

whats if it suddenly overheats? lol slow reaction time. no good