Scottyboi

I have a jwt reflash redline 7400 rpm. After i installed the ultimate i cant rev it past 6500 rpm's i set the ultimate to 7500rpms. Any idea whats wrong?

i have a 4th gen motor

98MaXeDouT

iTrader: (6)

Can't use JWT ecu with the EU.

Why even have the jwt when you can get a much finer/exact tune with the EU.


Ditch the JWT and go back to stock with the EU

Scottyboi

I had he jwt before the Ultimate..and just decided to leave it in when i installed the ultimate.

didnt thnk anything of it..

so your sure thats the problem?

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

I agree, it's not a good idea to use a JWT tuned ECU in conjuction with the EU, but his question was never directly answered.

I find his problem very interesting. I would have thought for sure that his redline function wouldn't be an issue.

For the life of me, I can't get my EU above 6500 (99 Cali spec Max), and was actually considering calling up JWT and having them modify my ECU so I could get the 7200 redline I'm seeking (Of course, I wouldn't have them modify the ECU in any other way).

Considering the OP probably doesn't have an 99 ECU, removing the JWT ECU and following the instructions in DandyMax's EU writeup (specific to getting above stock redline) should yield favorable results in getting back his 7400 rpm redline.

whlimi

iTrader: (11)

I have a Cali spec ECM in my 99 and I managed to get it past the 6500 rev limit. The funny part is that I didnt add fuel...i subtracted fuel

I'm clueless as to why or how this works but as soon as I decrease the pulse width from 6500-7200, I can rev right to 7250. At the same time I have to decrease the IPW by quite a bit or else I'd be running rich.

Scottyboi

I would assume you could just fine tune the jwt reflash with the ultimate..

redzzand

Hello everyone,

I am working on Scotty's car along with another friend. He doesnt have an OEM ECU for his 4th gen VQ30DE motor. All he has is the JWT reflashed ECU. Will this not work at all? His reflash is pretty dead on as far as AFRs go. timing curve is kinda high, specially under boost, but we can fix that...

The redline issue is wierd. The car revs normally to about 6500rpms, but once it gets there it just holds the RPMs. It doesnt bounce off a limiter like you would expect. The datalog just shows the RPM signal holding steady between 6500-6700RPMs. Now, here are a few details about the car. first off, we are not using a MAP sensor at all. Scotty wants to keep using the Z32 MAF. so Im thinking that maybe we need to clamp the MAF signal? Or do you only clamp it when you run a MAP sensor?


Also, that writeup has a BIG mistake... the Injector Input/Output wire colors are reversed when checked against the Greedy E-Manage install manual. And for some reason, the eManage wont have any injector output if we set the the CH 1 -6 switches on the board to OPEN. Car only turns on with these switches set to 1-2

thanks for all the help/input.

--Redz

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

That car doesn't need a Emanage.. I told Scotty not to install it, and he did it anyway.

I built this car.. It's a B15 Spec V with a built/turbocharged VQ30DE. It is running on a reflashed fed spec 96 ECU. I worked for several weeks, back and forth with Clark at JWT, to get the tune dead on with this setup. The AFR's are perfect, and the timing is perfect for 93 octane fuel.

If you need something changed.. I can get with Clark to have another chip sent out.. But, I doesn't understand why you guys are messing with the tune in the first place.

Travis

alexsracing

no messing with yet, logged it, and it seems great.

however he wants to add a larger turbo, and larger injectors, and more boost.
we can try to do it on emanage ultimate or modify the current chip.

currently has cooling problems with the one slimfan, with heater on still above operating temps




I did a stock spec v just like scottys, all 100% stock longblock with ebay 50 trim on emanage blue, it ran a 12.6 on 10 psi

redzzand

We are not messing with the tune YET. Scotty wants to do some changes and add some parts that will require a retune eventually. So this is why we are doing the EU install.

However, I got a couple questions for ya since you did the original build and stuff. First off, i noticed that the vehicle speed sensor wire is cut right before it goes into the ecu. Any reason you dont want the ecu to know the cars speed at any given time? What is the stock spring rate on the external wastegate? Seems to have a 5psi spring and creeps like crazy on high RPMs. What is the base timing on VQ30DE motors? I just want to double check base timing.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Base timing on a VQ30 ECU is 15 degrees advance.

I have run an EU on top of a 96 JWT ECU (N/A version with a 6900 limit) and had no problems whatsoever. Unless JWT now runs feedback loops under WOT it should work just fine, providing it hasn't been wired and/or set up incorrectly it should work just fine.

Is this a new EU or a used unit?

How are you attempting to override the rev limit? Where and how did you set it to 7500?

Also, I don't believe there's a mistake in the writeup with injector wire colors. The wire colors given in the writeup were taken right out of the Greddy install manual, if you check it carefully you'll see it's in agreement, unless Greddy has switched around the colors and not posted an update to the manual (the writeup was written a few years ago).

The Wizard

iTrader: (43)

Was gonna say the exact same thing....Back in the day, I checked every wire in Dan's awesome writeup vs Greddy's manual. Everything checked out perfectly!

redzzand

i believe scotty bought the EU used. And the DIY is correct, i apologize for the mistake. The pins are incorrect on the EU plugs. We have checked those and connected them properly already.


The JWT reflash on the ECU has a 7200RPM rev limit. We could hit the rev limit before the install. Cant do it anymore. We have tried adjusting the rev limit under the IGN tab. Set start to 7300, ing cut to 7500, shift up to 7500.

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

The injector/MAF combo is good for 525whp, as it sits.. Is he planning on going past that point?

The speed sensor wire is cut because I wasn't sure if the newer sensor was compatible with the older ECU.. Either way, it's not required for the car to run properly.

The spring is 14psi, IIRC.. But, I have the screw on top backed out so that it would come on boost more gradually.. The car has massive traction issues if it comes into boost too quickly. That may change if you swap out the turbo..

Space was limited.. hence the single fan.. I'm sure that you can appreciate the thinking/time that went into making a piping setup for that car.

Honestly though.. I wouldn't mess with the tune.. It doesn't need anything, unless you're planning on making over 525whp.

Travis

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

If you take a look at the writeup you'll see that those boxes aren't going to help you in changing the rev limit... those are used only with the flat shift feature, and that only works when activated by a switch (such as the clutch). And the rev limit cut map won't help you either... you need to use the injector map... (there's a dedicated section in the writeup on this...)

However, if you're having issues with the fueling/injector setup and this EU is used I wouldn't be surprised if it's a damaged unit. I've heard of so many cases of people getting used EU's with damaged ignition or injector control circuits it's not funny. I'd never advise any one to buy one used unless they know the person and have verified that all features are working. Do you have another (new) unit to swap to test?

redzzand

ok great, that explains why the car has such slow spool up... and not to worry, if the car doesnt need any tuning, we wont touch it. But scotty wants to change/add parts, so we will see.

I dont have another EU to test with. Only a blue emanage. I figured those rev settings wouldnt do much since we are only intercepting the ignition and fuel wires. So thanks for the clarification.

One last question, how can I ensure that the VI system is working with the RPM activated switch?

alexsracing

ok travis I set it to 18psi now, I don't see major traction issues like my hatch ( it spins mt's radials badly), its pretty controlable ( he can get better tires), only problem now is the redline at 6400. once thats fixed then scotty can have the option of larger turbo and I can adjust map as needed if he goes that route.

or it he wants a race gas tune on the emanage


on the boost another option for scotty would be, boost by rpm type deal, I can add a boost solenoid to kick in at certain rpm, so it can boost a single digit till it gets to 5k rpm and activate to go to 18psi

alexsracing

any ideas why it won't run the jwt reflash rev limit, since the eu dosn't affect it

dfownz

iTrader: (5)

Now I don't have an emanage and don't know that much about them, but did you INITIALLY set it up for a vq30de? This stock map (I would think) would have the stock rev-limit. In this case you'd have to adjust it like the writeup says (and DandyMax!).

...just a thought.

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

Not sure why you would have a 6400rpm rev limit.. I'll have to call Clark and ask him about that.

Travis

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

Hes running 555's, there is no real stock map for him to run.

alexsracing

ecu rev limit is 7300 from jwt, so it shouldn't be 6500

mastercater7

iTrader: (2)

I ran JWT and EMU and had no rev limiter problems. Either the EMU is toast or the wiring/software was setup wrong.

Scottyboi

I really hope the wiring is wrong..

alexsracing

I changed it to run the jwt ecu and the eu is just tap'd for the logging, car runs the same, just now has a 7300 rpm rev limit in all gears but 1st seems to cut short.


travis how much boost was it actually tuned to on the 60-1???


its got a intake manifold with butterflys now, but when it get signal from the summit rpm activated switch the car has light little misses, (either the plugs need changing) or it dosn't like the transition to open, so maybe remove the butterflys from inside the mani like ivans has.


on a side note, the stock sentra upgraded turbo on emanage blue is pulling like a train.



anyhow, if it is just the plugs, it will go back to the track to see if it can run better than a 14.8@99 (scottys)

Scottyboi

It has a MEVI mani

I have a bad third gear and had to granny shift. plus my belt came off. punk

redzzand

i dunno, i was with alex yesterday and he would get it into 3rd... car has great low-end power but whenever the VI engages, it seems to loose power, like it looses boost pressure and has to spool again. feels very sluggish on top end even though the AFRs and timing are dead on.

On the rev limit problem, Im leaning towards a bad EU. He bought it used so who knows if it really works or not.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

And you verified that the MEVI is indeed openining? Sounds as if it isnt.

alexsracing

yes its opening, it was riged to a switch as well (not by me), whatever rpm I set the switch to it does the problem, so it is related to when the vavles OPEN


before they open its great

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

So you actually see the Actuater moving correct? Also, what RPM do you have it set to open at? The MEVI has to open at a certain RPM to acheive a smooth transition.
You are using the Summit RPM switch right? If so, its designed for V8 applications. Most of us running the Summit switch have had to set the dip switches to a lower setting (3k) to get the MEVI to open up at around 4700-5000.

redzzand

yesterday we tried 2k and 4k. It was set to 5k. Major loss of power when VI activates on all those settings. We will try the 3k setting later today.

Flava_24/7

iTrader: (46)

So the RPM switch had its dip switches set at 2k and 4k?
If so, at what rpm did the MEVI open up at on the tach?

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

It's "tuned" to run up to about 21-22psi, but, anything over 15psi or so should really be on race gas. Also, you'll need to close the gap on the spark plugs, down to about .023-.025" to keep it from blowing the spark out.

That's probably what your miss is since you cranked the boost up already.

Travis

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

BTW, that car will not hook up, unless Scotty has a good set of coilovers (teins or JIC), and he's running on slicks.. I've run 12.20's @ 110mph @ 300whp with a high compression N/A VQ35.. You just have to know how to get the car to hook.

Travis

redzzand

yeah, we just took out the plugs and noticed the HUGE gap on em.

so we cant run over 15psi on pump gas (93 octane)? is it only tuned race gas over 1bar? car still doesnt have any traction issues, but we have slicks standing by just in case we need em.

alexsracing

should be on race gas???? or has to be, does it have racegas timing at the 16psi+ area?
cause a race gas tune is way diff than pump

i can tune 93 oct on most 9:1 motors to 21psi no problem

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

It really depends on the motor.. I wouldn't personally run that much boost through a VQ30, at that power level, on pump gas. Can you do it? Sure.. But, what happens when you catch a really hot day, or, the Walbro in the tank decides to start acting up? You can use enough fuel to cover up most detonation problems, but, at what cost?

The engine runs fine, as is.. PLEASE don't mess with it.. I don't know you at all.. and I'm not saying that you can't tune.. I'm simply saying that it doesn't NEED anything. Close the gap down on the plugs, if you want to run higher boost, and dump in some C16 past 15psi or so. The maps are already set for it.. I spent a LOT of time working with JWT to get his tune spot on, so he wouldn't need to mess with anything.

Travis

alexsracing

im not messing with the tune right now (and I wouldn't mess with it it I don't think it will safely make more power), im trying to figure out what is was tuned to on straight 93 octane. cause if the higher psi is for c16 then the timing would be very unsafe for 93 oct.

you said anything over 15psi or so should really be on race gas, should be or actually has race gas timing? cause it burns a lot different that pump

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

I agree with Travis on this one, I kinda followed the build on the other site. The car is already breaking traction in almost every gear what more would it need? Bigger turbo to accomplish what? It seems time and money would be better spent on a rwd platform if you want more power.

TurboS13Hatch

iTrader: (5)

I say "roughly" 15psi, because the load cells in the VE/timing tables aren't selected by boost pressure. This ECU chooses a load cell based on MAF voltage versus engine RPM, once in open loop. This could be at 14psi, 15.. maybe 16psi, depending on the ambient air temps, load/gear, etc.. I understand what you're asking me.. Just trying to explain why boost pressure isn't the correct term to be choosing when asking about when you need to switch over to C16. I would say that a conservative estimated boost pressure would be around 15psi. I think that at that figure, you would stay out of the race gas load cells.. They have much more aggresive timing, as C16 burns slower, and needs more advance. I would keept it at 15psi or so.. If you're having hesitation issues at 18psi, then, it's probably because you're getting into the race gas load cells, and you're getting a little detonation on pump gas.

Travis