Mastercater7's 4.5 Gen RMT Build Thread
12-09-2009, 09:56 PM
#41
Damn i replied but my post didnt go through.
Anyway, the HR bolts have different torque specs which is part reason why they are better, they require more torque in both angle tightening and with the torque wrench. so make 100% sure you get the proper specs, also on that JWT file about the gasket, i think it says the specs, if not look for the specs for the HR 350z or w/e the HR came in, btw you'll notice you have HR bolts because there are TWO dots on the bolt's head instead of 1.
I really doubt anyone makes the same design as the HR gasket, but why would you need stronger? unless your going for over 680WHP, and even then with stronger bolts the HR gasket can probably hold even more power.
Anyway, the HR bolts have different torque specs which is part reason why they are better, they require more torque in both angle tightening and with the torque wrench. so make 100% sure you get the proper specs, also on that JWT file about the gasket, i think it says the specs, if not look for the specs for the HR 350z or w/e the HR came in, btw you'll notice you have HR bolts because there are TWO dots on the bolt's head instead of 1.
I really doubt anyone makes the same design as the HR gasket, but why would you need stronger? unless your going for over 680WHP, and even then with stronger bolts the HR gasket can probably hold even more power.
Conrad, I will take some pics as soon as the bolts arrive. The reason I haven't taken pics yet is because the car and engine is at a friends house. This wait is killing me
Zack
12-10-2009, 12:59 AM
#42
Selling the Green Maxima - $2000
Getting all the parts out of the machine shop to put the 3.5 together - $1100
My enjoyment in knowing you have at least another week plus 500 miles before you can kick my *** - priceless
Getting all the parts out of the machine shop to put the 3.5 together - $1100
My enjoyment in knowing you have at least another week plus 500 miles before you can kick my *** - priceless
12-10-2009, 02:21 PM
#44
12-10-2009, 02:39 PM
#45
S
12-10-2009, 07:35 PM
#47
Do you still live up by running wolf and qfc?
12-11-2009, 10:20 PM
#49
12-12-2009, 02:32 PM
#50
505, I am sure your car is faster now that Noz blew his transmission. So Noz, can you push your car faster than I can push mine? If you can, then yes your enjoyment continues for one week...
12-12-2009, 06:42 PM
#51
Do you need any help with the build?
12-12-2009, 07:22 PM
#52
It was an auto that was on it's way out anyways, I can get one cheap and will fill it with synthetic, add a cooler and do the DR mod then I'll be fine. I'll also have a spare to rebuild.
I popped it on a hard launch, the tires spun through first and most of second then grabbed and when I went to a normal cruise first was gone and then I checked and reverse was gone and neutral tries to grab. Toasted..
I was only pushing 10lbs.
Zack, my car is still faster because it starts and drives in second just no boost due to no high revs.
I popped it on a hard launch, the tires spun through first and most of second then grabbed and when I went to a normal cruise first was gone and then I checked and reverse was gone and neutral tries to grab. Toasted..
I was only pushing 10lbs.
Zack, my car is still faster because it starts and drives in second just no boost due to no high revs.
Last edited by Nozama; 12-12-2009 at 09:32 PM.
12-21-2009, 10:43 PM
#54
The bolts finally arrived today. I am hoping to start assembling everything tomorrow but it will most likely be Wednesday or Thursday before I can start. If I can begin tomorrow, I will upload pictures in the morning; otherwise it will be Wednesday or Thursday.
Zack
Zack
12-25-2009, 11:42 AM
#55
I finally was able to get this thing going. The bolts arrived the other day and I almost finished the block yesterday. If I hadn't broke the oil ring on the last piston the block would be done. Anyone know where I can find 1 96mm oil ring? Anyways, on with the pictures!
12-25-2009, 12:11 PM
#58
Sorry, no it was not decked. I typed that on accident, it was originally going to be. The shop took way to long and i told them not to because they would have taken much longer. I will get it done when I pull the heads in a few months. The heads were resurfaced
Last edited by mastercater7; 12-25-2009 at 12:14 PM.
01-12-2010, 02:26 AM
#59
Well the ring arrived a few days ago and I was able to get started on it again the other night. I made a mistake when assembling the block and had to fix it. Thankfully I caught it, however it made things take longer. I did have to notch my oil pan baffle and I eliminated all but one noise. I can't seem to figure out where it is hitting. Streetz, do you have any pictures of the notched oil pan baffle? I have been a bit nervous since I have never assembled an engine before, but I am confident it will turn out right. Anyways, on with the pictures:
01-12-2010, 03:11 PM
#61
I know its not the best way but I used vasaline.. 
I put a 1/4 dab on each rod bolt & main stud.Then I installed the 3.0 upper pan & rotated the crank until I felt/ heard contact. The vasaline will appear on the baffle(indicating high points) All I did after that was shave/grind down the mounting tabs under the baffle tray. Good luck.
I put a 1/4 dab on each rod bolt & main stud.Then I installed the 3.0 upper pan & rotated the crank until I felt/ heard contact. The vasaline will appear on the baffle(indicating high points) All I did after that was shave/grind down the mounting tabs under the baffle tray. Good luck.
Last edited by accordingtou; 01-21-2010 at 01:41 PM.
01-26-2010, 10:48 PM
#64
I wasn't able to work on the engine for awhile due to some other issues. Anyways, I fixed the oil pan baffle problem but then I snapped the head off of a bolt on the coolant log. I ended up having to drill a bigger hole because the bolt wouldn't come out. The LIM spacers are on and sealed. You have to use a really small amount of sealant otherwise it squeezes into the injector/air ports and has to be redone. The motor goes in tomorrow and I will post more pictures. I am still trying to decide on spark plugs as well. I remember reading somewhere that you cant use VQ30 spark plugs on a VQ35. However, I read on my350z that a lot of guys are running the VQ30 plugs (based on part #'s) I have to keep researching, but I have 8 brand new NGK 2 steps colder plugs for the VQ30 in my garage. Anyone know about this? On with the pictures.
01-27-2010, 07:45 AM
#66
no no on, dont use 3.0 spark plugs. the 3.5 plugs are way longer and you might have trouble getting combustion with the short 3.0, dont experiment like that. them 3.0 plugs were probably only less than 12 bucks, so its not like ur throwing away alot of money. get yourself 1step colder v-power ngk 3.5 plugs and call it a day. (this is the part num, LFR6A-11).
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
Last edited by streetzlegend; 01-27-2010 at 07:54 AM.
01-27-2010, 06:48 PM
#68
Streetz, I know, Zack knows, and now you know that this motor will not be broken in properly...
no no on, dont use 3.0 spark plugs. the 3.5 plugs are way longer and you might have trouble getting combustion with the short 3.0, dont experiment like that. them 3.0 plugs were probably only less than 12 bucks, so its not like ur throwing away alot of money. get yourself 1step colder v-power ngk 3.5 plugs and call it a day. (this is the part num, LFR6A-11).
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
01-27-2010, 10:08 PM
#69
no no on, dont use 3.0 spark plugs. the 3.5 plugs are way longer and you might have trouble getting combustion with the short 3.0, dont experiment like that. them 3.0 plugs were probably only less than 12 bucks, so its not like ur throwing away alot of money. get yourself 1step colder v-power ngk 3.5 plugs and call it a day. (this is the part num, LFR6A-11).
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
btw, thats the first time iv ever heard of 3.0 spark plugs being used on a turbo/sc setup 3.5, dont do it, dosnt make sense.
Looking good man, cant wait to see your car running. How are you going to go about the break in process, i assume you have new wiseco pistons in there right?
Yes new Wiseco pistons, plus all the other new goodies. I am going to do oil changes at 100, 500, and 1,000 miles and then the engine should be done breaking in. I will just adjust throttle and rpms to avoid cruising during the first 1,000 miles. The supercharger will be on there so I will TRY my best to keep my foot out of it
01-27-2010, 11:00 PM
#70
Here is one of the threads I found where a Z user is talking about the BKR7E-11 series NGK plugs: http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...-question.html
Yes new Wiseco pistons, plus all the other new goodies. I am going to do oil changes at 100, 500, and 1,000 miles and then the engine should be done breaking in. I will just adjust throttle and rpms to avoid cruising during the first 1,000 miles. The supercharger will be on there so I will TRY my best to keep my foot out of it
Yes new Wiseco pistons, plus all the other new goodies. I am going to do oil changes at 100, 500, and 1,000 miles and then the engine should be done breaking in. I will just adjust throttle and rpms to avoid cruising during the first 1,000 miles. The supercharger will be on there so I will TRY my best to keep my foot out of it
as for the plugs, just go with 3.5 plugs man, i would say out of 20 built vq35 guys, only 2 probably have 3.0 plugs (which makes no sense wats so ever), GET 3.5 PLUGS!!!!! one step colder, dont need 2 step, and if you do they actually make them (I have used them before).
01-27-2010, 11:02 PM
#71
lol, i bet. I dont think babying the car to break it in is the right way either, but who knows what the right way is lol. Iv seen people build a motor and go to the dyno as soon as they started the car.
01-27-2010, 11:38 PM
#72
Yeah thats what I did, I couldnt hold myself. lol. eitherway most say that the best way to break in the engine is to drive it wat it was built for.
as for the plugs, just go with 3.5 plugs man, i would say out of 20 built vq35 guys, only 2 probably have 3.0 plugs (which makes no sense wats so ever), GET 3.5 PLUGS!!!!! one step colder, dont need 2 step, and if you do they actually make them (I have used them before).
as for the plugs, just go with 3.5 plugs man, i would say out of 20 built vq35 guys, only 2 probably have 3.0 plugs (which makes no sense wats so ever), GET 3.5 PLUGS!!!!! one step colder, dont need 2 step, and if you do they actually make them (I have used them before).
01-28-2010, 06:28 AM
#73
be safe
01-31-2010, 04:55 PM
#74
They might have tried using those plugs because there was no 2step colder back then, but I dont think it would be an efficient combustion considering the 3.5 plugs tip is deeper inside the cylinder than the 3.0 plug, so spark blowout might be easy, thats my logic at least. make vids of the car when its done!!!
be safe
be safe
02-03-2010, 02:58 AM
#77
02-04-2010, 08:42 PM
#79
Well, some problems have arisen lately (not car related) and I am being forced to sell the supercharger. Atleast I will have a built 3.5; hopefully it will be boosted again very soon. I bumped my previous for sale thread and need to sell it asap.
Zack
Zack
04-28-2010, 09:41 PM
#80
Well, the build is all done and the fun lasted about 700 miles before all the problems started. I drove it around for 500 miles N/A and then put the supercharger back on. The engine is working great and sounds awesome. The car won't start on its own now. When I crank it the engine just floods. I replaced the cam pos sensor and the harness/clip thinking I might have bumped it during the supercharger install but that didn't solve the problem. I also swapped mafs and that wasn't it either. I'm not getting any codes at the moment. When it first wouldn't start the plugs were soaked and I HAD to get the car running so I checked the codes and it threw a cam pos sensor and a maf code. I then compression started it and it ran totally fine. Drove 30 more miles that night without any problems. I am completely lost on what this problem is. The other day I compression started it and it was not happy. When I gave it gas (while barely running) it would try to die, then when I let off the gas it would revup/go back to idle. I am going to check all the maf wiring tomorrow. I am pretty sure it is ignition related but I just can't figure it out. Any help would be greatly appreciated, it has been almost a year since it has ran correctly/ran at all and I need it to run.
Thanks,
Zac
Thanks,
Zac