S/C Install and Progress - DFOWNZ
05-29-2009, 09:48 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
S/C Install and Progress - DFOWNZ
Hey boys,
I am so excited to finally feel some boost, as this has been a project of mine since I bought my car 5 years ago!
Here are my specs:
Car:
2000 Maxima se 5spd
107k miles
Exhaust:
XSperformance h/y <---- junk I know!
Custom test pipe
#1 catback 2.5" <----even more junk!
Goodies:
Aeromotive 13301 AFPR w/ gauge
VAFCii
LC-1
SSI-4
Laptop for datalogging!
ES motor mount inserts
So all of the things I've mentioned up to this point are already installed on the car...
To be installed:
Fidanza Flywheel
Spec 3 pp with stage 2 disc
2.87 and 3.33 pulley
Matty bolt kit
Blitz bov
V1 kit w/ 4th gen piping <------ I'm fine with this right!?!?
440cc injectors w/ o-rings
Vortech FMU
Walbro w/ tank gasket
Antiseize
Gasket sealer
1) Ok, so now that you guys see what I have to install, would you suggest I pull the motor? The reason being, I really don't want to pull the tranny if I can afford not to because I don't want to mess with the axles. This way I could install the s/c and the flywheel/clutch in a lazy-boy if I want to.
2) This one is pretty important. For as long as I've been able to measure my fuel pressure (once I installed the afpr and gauge), my pressure has dropped INSTANTLY to zero psi when I turn off the car. The gauge is located in the 1/8" port on the 13301 afpr. Does this indicate that I have a leak? Should it be a major concern of mine? What can I do to check for leaks?
3) I have a random/multiple misfire code on my ECU right now and I'm pretty sure I've isolated a coil that is causing random misfires at idle and driving. Is there any DEFINITE way to test coils for an 00? So far I've replaced two, so I have only 2 gray dot coils. Does this pose a major or minor threat to my motor? I'd assume I would just lose power and misfire and life would go on, but if I'm going to toast my motor please let me know. As of right now, I can drive the car for weeks and it will seem fine. Other times, it usually sounds like a helicopter/wrx until its warmed up (It stops when warmed up every time so far).
4) I plan on monitoring the plugs throughout my s/c'ing experience. With this in mind and assuming I'd change them frequently, would copper plugs work or do I definitely need the one step colder NGK's?
This is a work in progress and I will be updating this thread until I am DONE!
Thanks all!!!!
I am so excited to finally feel some boost, as this has been a project of mine since I bought my car 5 years ago!
Here are my specs:
Car:
2000 Maxima se 5spd
107k miles
Exhaust:
XSperformance h/y <---- junk I know!
Custom test pipe
#1 catback 2.5" <----even more junk!
Goodies:
Aeromotive 13301 AFPR w/ gauge
VAFCii
LC-1
SSI-4
Laptop for datalogging!
ES motor mount inserts
So all of the things I've mentioned up to this point are already installed on the car...
To be installed:
Fidanza Flywheel
Spec 3 pp with stage 2 disc
2.87 and 3.33 pulley
Matty bolt kit
Blitz bov
V1 kit w/ 4th gen piping <------ I'm fine with this right!?!?
440cc injectors w/ o-rings
Vortech FMU
Walbro w/ tank gasket
Antiseize
Gasket sealer
1) Ok, so now that you guys see what I have to install, would you suggest I pull the motor? The reason being, I really don't want to pull the tranny if I can afford not to because I don't want to mess with the axles. This way I could install the s/c and the flywheel/clutch in a lazy-boy if I want to.
2) This one is pretty important. For as long as I've been able to measure my fuel pressure (once I installed the afpr and gauge), my pressure has dropped INSTANTLY to zero psi when I turn off the car. The gauge is located in the 1/8" port on the 13301 afpr. Does this indicate that I have a leak? Should it be a major concern of mine? What can I do to check for leaks?
3) I have a random/multiple misfire code on my ECU right now and I'm pretty sure I've isolated a coil that is causing random misfires at idle and driving. Is there any DEFINITE way to test coils for an 00? So far I've replaced two, so I have only 2 gray dot coils. Does this pose a major or minor threat to my motor? I'd assume I would just lose power and misfire and life would go on, but if I'm going to toast my motor please let me know. As of right now, I can drive the car for weeks and it will seem fine. Other times, it usually sounds like a helicopter/wrx until its warmed up (It stops when warmed up every time so far).
4) I plan on monitoring the plugs throughout my s/c'ing experience. With this in mind and assuming I'd change them frequently, would copper plugs work or do I definitely need the one step colder NGK's?
This is a work in progress and I will be updating this thread until I am DONE!
Thanks all!!!!
Last edited by dfownz; 05-29-2009 at 03:33 PM.
05-30-2009, 08:18 AM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Thanks man!
Ohh I have another question:
5) Can I get my car inspected in RI with the supercharger on? Can I just take off the belt and rig up an intake? Or if they see the s/c'r will they just fail me?
Ohh I have another question:
5) Can I get my car inspected in RI with the supercharger on? Can I just take off the belt and rig up an intake? Or if they see the s/c'r will they just fail me?
05-31-2009, 06:27 AM
#4
Supercharger should not affect inspection, but I don't know RI rules. But u can take the belt off and use ur oem belt, that's what I did when I cut my belt the first time when I alignment issues
06-01-2009, 07:21 AM
#5
4th Gen piping will not work. You are going to have to get some extra piping if you have it and Fab it up or just Fab what you have now.
I suggest installing one mod at a time. Im not an expert but I fel better doing one thing at a time. Easier to diagnose problems when they arise. After you have it figured out do the next. Esp injectors for me.
Another SC maxima in the area this could get interesting.
Last edited by maxima92se; 06-01-2009 at 07:28 AM.
06-01-2009, 04:41 PM
#8
1) No need to pull the motor. I'd leave it in.
2) No, it doesn't necessarily mean you have a leak. Do you smell fuel? You'd smell it for sure if you had a leak.
3) Have you tried testing the coils per the FSM?? Have any nearby friends you can swap coils with temporarily? Swapping in known good coils is an easy way to check things out. Your code isn't telling you which specific coil is bad? or at least which bank?
4)Def. need the one step colder plugs. Coppers will be fine too.
5)Yes, you should be fine. The SC kit is 50 state legal, it's only not legal in CA for 99's IIRC. I'd have to look at my original Stillen emissions sticker to be sure though..... Also, you'll have to have your BOV recurculated...at least that's how it is in CA.
2) No, it doesn't necessarily mean you have a leak. Do you smell fuel? You'd smell it for sure if you had a leak.
3) Have you tried testing the coils per the FSM?? Have any nearby friends you can swap coils with temporarily? Swapping in known good coils is an easy way to check things out. Your code isn't telling you which specific coil is bad? or at least which bank?
4)Def. need the one step colder plugs. Coppers will be fine too.
5)Yes, you should be fine. The SC kit is 50 state legal, it's only not legal in CA for 99's IIRC. I'd have to look at my original Stillen emissions sticker to be sure though..... Also, you'll have to have your BOV recurculated...at least that's how it is in CA.
06-04-2009, 08:11 AM
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Thanks all for the wisdom its definitely appreciated!!!!!!!
06-06-2009, 02:24 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Still waiting to hear from more of you guys about the 4th gen piping.
Anyways, today I installed the walbro and it took a little bit of manipulation to get it in there. I had purchased the pump off another orger whom already had grinded off the tabs on the walbro pump itself, so I didn't have to do that.
My fittment issue occured where the filter end of the walbro sticks out of the basket. There's a half-moon black rubber grommet and a big plastic retaining clip that keep the pump in the basket. The walbro was sticking so far out that the grommet wouldn't fit. Also, I had to cut a little notch in the plastic clip so it could clear the little plastic piece on the walbro (the piece that you put the metal retainer onto). After this, I thought everything would be cake.
Turns out it pushed the filter (I reused the stock one btw) just a little bit lower and now the tabs for the basket don't make it all the way in to snap into place because the actual filter is bottoming out. The upper assembly (the part you can see right when you take off the first cover, right under the back seat) snaps in fine and so does the tank level-thingy.
Car runs just like it did two hours before....now it just sounds like a vacuum is running in the trunk constantly!!
1) Does that black grommet stop vibrations that could hurt the pump?
2) Has this happened to anyone else????
3) Should I be worried? Right now I feel like its straight.
Anyways, today I installed the walbro and it took a little bit of manipulation to get it in there. I had purchased the pump off another orger whom already had grinded off the tabs on the walbro pump itself, so I didn't have to do that.
My fittment issue occured where the filter end of the walbro sticks out of the basket. There's a half-moon black rubber grommet and a big plastic retaining clip that keep the pump in the basket. The walbro was sticking so far out that the grommet wouldn't fit. Also, I had to cut a little notch in the plastic clip so it could clear the little plastic piece on the walbro (the piece that you put the metal retainer onto). After this, I thought everything would be cake.
Turns out it pushed the filter (I reused the stock one btw) just a little bit lower and now the tabs for the basket don't make it all the way in to snap into place because the actual filter is bottoming out. The upper assembly (the part you can see right when you take off the first cover, right under the back seat) snaps in fine and so does the tank level-thingy.
Car runs just like it did two hours before....now it just sounds like a vacuum is running in the trunk constantly!!
1) Does that black grommet stop vibrations that could hurt the pump?
2) Has this happened to anyone else????
3) Should I be worried? Right now I feel like its straight.
Last edited by dfownz; 06-06-2009 at 02:27 PM.
06-12-2009, 03:39 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Bump for questions in post #10
Also,
4) I'm having a lot of trouble getting the oem back drain plate (water pump cover) off because its sooo sealed. Is there a trick to getting that guy off? I don't want to break anything.
As far as everything else goes, I have everything off (except for the water pump cover) and am almost ready to start putting it all back together!
Also,
4) I'm having a lot of trouble getting the oem back drain plate (water pump cover) off because its sooo sealed. Is there a trick to getting that guy off? I don't want to break anything.
As far as everything else goes, I have everything off (except for the water pump cover) and am almost ready to start putting it all back together!
06-12-2009, 06:23 PM
#12
Walbro does sound loud, stock pump you can't really hear, I know I haven't heard mine. Are you sure you got the right pump? From what I remember all I did was remove the stock pump, put the stock strainer on the walbro and connect the electrical connector. I've never heard anything about grinding any tabs and mine has been in for about a year and a half so far.
06-12-2009, 07:13 PM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 744
are you using the walbro filter or re-using the stock filter? (i think the walbro filter is a rectangle prism shape, and the stock filter is a pancake shape)
when i had the walbro installed, i re-used the stock filter since i determined using the walbro filter would not have worked clearance-wise
i did have an issue that i just lived with, where even with the walbro pump + stock filter installed the fuel pump housing did not fit together with the tabs snapping back in place. the pump housing still fit in the tank just fine and everything seemed to work without any fuel delivery hiccups
since the housing was not completely together, it also partially kept the fuel float from dropping below 1/4 tank, so once i would get there i would go about 30 miles more then fill up. i know, ghetto, but it worked out
when i had the walbro installed, i re-used the stock filter since i determined using the walbro filter would not have worked clearance-wise
i did have an issue that i just lived with, where even with the walbro pump + stock filter installed the fuel pump housing did not fit together with the tabs snapping back in place. the pump housing still fit in the tank just fine and everything seemed to work without any fuel delivery hiccups
since the housing was not completely together, it also partially kept the fuel float from dropping below 1/4 tank, so once i would get there i would go about 30 miles more then fill up. i know, ghetto, but it worked out
06-14-2009, 08:43 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Yeah Ephraim, that's exactly what I'm talking about. The tabs that hold the PUMP-assembly don't snap back in. Car drives fine so whatever.
Anyone have a trick to get the water pump cover off?
EDIT: Got everything off, now I'm off to Autozone to get all the little things!!! Can't wait, everything lines up even the modified thermostat housing w00t!!!!!
I'll have pics once I get everything together.
Anyone have a trick to get the water pump cover off?
EDIT: Got everything off, now I'm off to Autozone to get all the little things!!! Can't wait, everything lines up even the modified thermostat housing w00t!!!!!
I'll have pics once I get everything together.
Last edited by dfownz; 06-14-2009 at 10:48 AM.
06-16-2009, 10:41 AM
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Ok, so I've run into such an annoying problem.
The oil feed line that I got does not have the m10 x1.0 to m10x1.0 male tube connector. This piece would screw into the block where the oil pressure sending unit was and then screws into the nut on the oil line T. I've gone everywhere locally looking for this little bastard of a piece and can't find it anywhere.....all they have are npt.
My buddy has suggested that I drill and tap my block and convert everything to npt, but I already have the ENTIRE oil line, with the exception of that little tiny connector. Can I order it from Stillen? Is there a place online where I can get it? I've started searching, but I'm getting very frustrated because all I can find is NPT!!!!!!!
The oil feed line that I got does not have the m10 x1.0 to m10x1.0 male tube connector. This piece would screw into the block where the oil pressure sending unit was and then screws into the nut on the oil line T. I've gone everywhere locally looking for this little bastard of a piece and can't find it anywhere.....all they have are npt.
My buddy has suggested that I drill and tap my block and convert everything to npt, but I already have the ENTIRE oil line, with the exception of that little tiny connector. Can I order it from Stillen? Is there a place online where I can get it? I've started searching, but I'm getting very frustrated because all I can find is NPT!!!!!!!
06-16-2009, 07:16 PM
#16
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 744
brass dual sided (NPT + BSPT) male fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4860k611/=2ckix3
brass npt T fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#50785k75/=2ckjoi
stainless (might have this in brass not sure tho) male NPT w/ female BSPT: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4092k26/=2ckjx1
one of these pieces?
in my setup it went in this order
engine block, then dual sided male fitting (BSPT on engine side & NPT on T fitting side), then T Fitting (all NPT) then male NPT/female BSPT, then the stock oil pressure sensor thing
brass npt T fitting: http://www.mcmaster.com/#50785k75/=2ckjoi
stainless (might have this in brass not sure tho) male NPT w/ female BSPT: http://www.mcmaster.com/#4092k26/=2ckjx1
one of these pieces?
in my setup it went in this order
engine block, then dual sided male fitting (BSPT on engine side & NPT on T fitting side), then T Fitting (all NPT) then male NPT/female BSPT, then the stock oil pressure sensor thing
06-22-2009, 12:27 PM
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
So my ultimate (and really cheap) decision is to drill a hole down the central axis of a m10 x 1.0 bolt to make a tube. I'll have two nuts locked together in the middle so I can screw it in and take it out easily and hold it for drilling.
Sound like a good idea?
Sound like a good idea?
06-22-2009, 01:51 PM
#19
Still waiting to hear from more of you guys about the 4th gen piping.
Anyways, today I installed the walbro and it took a little bit of manipulation to get it in there. I had purchased the pump off another orger whom already had grinded off the tabs on the walbro pump itself, so I didn't have to do that.
My fittment issue occured where the filter end of the walbro sticks out of the basket. There's a half-moon black rubber grommet and a big plastic retaining clip that keep the pump in the basket. The walbro was sticking so far out that the grommet wouldn't fit. Also, I had to cut a little notch in the plastic clip so it could clear the little plastic piece on the walbro (the piece that you put the metal retainer onto). After this, I thought everything would be cake.
Turns out it pushed the filter (I reused the stock one btw) just a little bit lower and now the tabs for the basket don't make it all the way in to snap into place because the actual filter is bottoming out. The upper assembly (the part you can see right when you take off the first cover, right under the back seat) snaps in fine and so does the tank level-thingy.
Car runs just like it did two hours before....now it just sounds like a vacuum is running in the trunk constantly!!
1) Does that black grommet stop vibrations that could hurt the pump?
2) Has this happened to anyone else????
3) Should I be worried? Right now I feel like its straight.
Anyways, today I installed the walbro and it took a little bit of manipulation to get it in there. I had purchased the pump off another orger whom already had grinded off the tabs on the walbro pump itself, so I didn't have to do that.
My fittment issue occured where the filter end of the walbro sticks out of the basket. There's a half-moon black rubber grommet and a big plastic retaining clip that keep the pump in the basket. The walbro was sticking so far out that the grommet wouldn't fit. Also, I had to cut a little notch in the plastic clip so it could clear the little plastic piece on the walbro (the piece that you put the metal retainer onto). After this, I thought everything would be cake.
Turns out it pushed the filter (I reused the stock one btw) just a little bit lower and now the tabs for the basket don't make it all the way in to snap into place because the actual filter is bottoming out. The upper assembly (the part you can see right when you take off the first cover, right under the back seat) snaps in fine and so does the tank level-thingy.
Car runs just like it did two hours before....now it just sounds like a vacuum is running in the trunk constantly!!
1) Does that black grommet stop vibrations that could hurt the pump?
2) Has this happened to anyone else????
3) Should I be worried? Right now I feel like its straight.
I got the same problem with the walbro pump I have ( GSS 342 ) but I have a 5th gen and I think this pump is for 4th gen, but still no answer at this point. The walbro pump is a little longer than the stock 5th gen, and the rubber grummet fit but does not allow the plastic lock to close and lock the pump. I called Summit racing and they say there is no walbro pump listed for the 2001 Maxima. I remember reading some people who have installed it successfully, I'm going to make a thorough search tonight and see if I can come up with some answer since I have to fix it asap.
AA
06-23-2009, 11:32 AM
#20
Hey dfownz, ok I nail it down this morning, I got the instruction so thanks to Kevlo911.
Basically you have to shave the 2 round notch on the top of the walbro GSS 342 fuel pump, you got to be very careful because there is 2 little aluminum cup with a spring underneath that might pop up if you shave it flush to the top ( it happend to me this am ) but I was able to put it back and hammer it with a punch tool so it sit flush with the top and is secure again.
I shaved the notch using a dremmel and a knife, what happen is the alu cup doesn't sit flush with the top it may be 1/16" higher than the top. It's up to you to cut it flush or not, again if you cut it flush the cup and spring will pop out, so you maybe better to cut maybe 1/16 or an inche higher than the top. Once this is done you also have to shave a bit of plastic in the middle on the lock cover, you got to be very careful since the cover keep the plastic holder for the filter in place if you shave it too wide the plastic holder wont stay in place. For this I used a 1/8" cutting bit for that part, I used a cutting disk for the notch. One last thing once this is done the cushion rubber is use less, I tried to shave it as much as I can but the plastic lock dont close with it so I did not put it back.
See my crappy pics, sorry for that, but my camera is not that great for close-up shot and the battery just died when I was taking more pics.
All in all it took me 15 minutes to do this.
Good luck.
Basically you have to shave the 2 round notch on the top of the walbro GSS 342 fuel pump, you got to be very careful because there is 2 little aluminum cup with a spring underneath that might pop up if you shave it flush to the top ( it happend to me this am ) but I was able to put it back and hammer it with a punch tool so it sit flush with the top and is secure again.
I shaved the notch using a dremmel and a knife, what happen is the alu cup doesn't sit flush with the top it may be 1/16" higher than the top. It's up to you to cut it flush or not, again if you cut it flush the cup and spring will pop out, so you maybe better to cut maybe 1/16 or an inche higher than the top. Once this is done you also have to shave a bit of plastic in the middle on the lock cover, you got to be very careful since the cover keep the plastic holder for the filter in place if you shave it too wide the plastic holder wont stay in place. For this I used a 1/8" cutting bit for that part, I used a cutting disk for the notch. One last thing once this is done the cushion rubber is use less, I tried to shave it as much as I can but the plastic lock dont close with it so I did not put it back.
See my crappy pics, sorry for that, but my camera is not that great for close-up shot and the battery just died when I was taking more pics.
All in all it took me 15 minutes to do this.
Good luck.
06-23-2009, 06:51 PM
#22
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (38)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Near Archer High School, Ga
Posts: 6,451
Bump for questions in post #10
Also,
4) I'm having a lot of trouble getting the oem back drain plate (water pump cover) off because its sooo sealed. Is there a trick to getting that guy off? I don't want to break anything.
As far as everything else goes, I have everything off (except for the water pump cover) and am almost ready to start putting it all back together!
Also,
4) I'm having a lot of trouble getting the oem back drain plate (water pump cover) off because its sooo sealed. Is there a trick to getting that guy off? I don't want to break anything.
As far as everything else goes, I have everything off (except for the water pump cover) and am almost ready to start putting it all back together!
06-23-2009, 07:55 PM
#23
06-28-2009, 06:09 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Ok, so I have the blower all installed and all the piping is done.
All I need to do is tighten the belt tensioner (need a wierd swivel knuckle), pop in the plugs, refill the fluids, put in the FMU, and install my oil sandwich plate (which I'm waiting on).
As of right now I'm just gonna run the car with stock injectors and a 2.87" pulley. I'm not gonna boost it that much, but I am going to make sure I don't have other problems before I upgrade to 440's.
What should I gap my plugs to? I saw in the stickies .034-.038. I was thinking .038 seeing that I'm not running ridiculous boost.
Finally: Is there a way to take the blower off of the plate while installed and not take the plate off the motor? I had to take off the plate+blower and I'm already seeing that its a complete pain in the buttocks.
Ohh yeah...I'm gonna go snap some pics and put them up!!!
All I need to do is tighten the belt tensioner (need a wierd swivel knuckle), pop in the plugs, refill the fluids, put in the FMU, and install my oil sandwich plate (which I'm waiting on).
As of right now I'm just gonna run the car with stock injectors and a 2.87" pulley. I'm not gonna boost it that much, but I am going to make sure I don't have other problems before I upgrade to 440's.
What should I gap my plugs to? I saw in the stickies .034-.038. I was thinking .038 seeing that I'm not running ridiculous boost.
Finally: Is there a way to take the blower off of the plate while installed and not take the plate off the motor? I had to take off the plate+blower and I'm already seeing that its a complete pain in the buttocks.
Ohh yeah...I'm gonna go snap some pics and put them up!!!
Last edited by dfownz; 06-28-2009 at 06:17 PM.
06-28-2009, 06:18 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
I'm also going to upgrade to 3" charge piping because I HATE that 90* elbow. I'll save the reclocking for another day. Especially since I potentially may have to make a cold air intake to fit my maf on the non-charged side....yay!
06-29-2009, 09:49 AM
#28
What should I gap my plugs to? I saw in the stickies .034-.038. I was thinking .038 seeing that I'm not running ridiculous boost.
Finally: Is there a way to take the blower off of the plate while installed and not take the plate off the motor? I had to take off the plate+blower and I'm already seeing that its a complete pain in the buttocks.
No way to take blower off the plate once installed in car. Welcome to the "I hate changing my pulley" club.
06-29-2009, 12:07 PM
#30
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Glad I asked. I'll definitely be gapping them to .034 -> thanks Wizard!
Also, I believe I have an 8:1 (is this the stock Stillen size?). Do you guys have any calculators that you've used and had good success with?
Would anyone pop in the injectors now? Or should I wait until I have it up and running?
This should be the last one...I'm looking for a 3" pipe with a blitz flange on it. All I can find are <2.5". Does anyone know where to find them?
sorryforallthequestions
Also, I believe I have an 8:1 (is this the stock Stillen size?). Do you guys have any calculators that you've used and had good success with?
Would anyone pop in the injectors now? Or should I wait until I have it up and running?
This should be the last one...I'm looking for a 3" pipe with a blitz flange on it. All I can find are <2.5". Does anyone know where to find them?
sorryforallthequestions
Last edited by dfownz; 06-29-2009 at 12:13 PM.
06-29-2009, 12:18 PM
#31
Glad I asked. I'll definitely be gapping them to .034 -> thanks Wizard!
Also, I've seen a couple FMU disk calculators on-line. Right now I believe I have an 8:1 (is this the stock Stillen size?). Do you guys have any calculators that you've used and had good success with?
Would anyone pop in the injectors now? Or should I wait until I have it up and running?
sorryforallthequestions
Also, I've seen a couple FMU disk calculators on-line. Right now I believe I have an 8:1 (is this the stock Stillen size?). Do you guys have any calculators that you've used and had good success with?
Would anyone pop in the injectors now? Or should I wait until I have it up and running?
sorryforallthequestions
I would not put the injectors in right now. I'd run stock injectors and take it easy like you stated before. Once you know it runs like a champ, then start upgrading injectors/other parts/retuning.
06-29-2009, 06:09 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
That's awesome, I was thinking I would need a completely different disk! I also have a Cartech FMU that I got from matty DEEP ago and I just never did anything with it.
I'm starting to research intercoolers and may get one before I even turn the car on...still checking things out though.
I'm starting to research intercoolers and may get one before I even turn the car on...still checking things out though.
06-30-2009, 05:51 AM
#33
That's awesome, I was thinking I would need a completely different disk! I also have a Cartech FMU that I got from matty DEEP ago and I just never did anything with it.
I'm starting to research intercoolers and may get one before I even turn the car on...still checking things out though.
I'm starting to research intercoolers and may get one before I even turn the car on...still checking things out though.
I bought a threadstone I/C, those are bar & plate, very good quality & build and apparently very efficient.
AA
07-07-2009, 11:15 AM
#34
Ok, so I have the blower all installed and all the piping is done.
All I need to do is tighten the belt tensioner (need a wierd swivel knuckle), pop in the plugs, refill the fluids, put in the FMU, and install my oil sandwich plate (which I'm waiting on).
As of right now I'm just gonna run the car with stock injectors and a 2.87" pulley. I'm not gonna boost it that much, but I am going to make sure I don't have other problems before I upgrade to 440's.
What should I gap my plugs to? I saw in the stickies .034-.038. I was thinking .038 seeing that I'm not running ridiculous boost.
Finally: Is there a way to take the blower off of the plate while installed and not take the plate off the motor? I had to take off the plate+blower and I'm already seeing that its a complete pain in the buttocks.
Ohh yeah...I'm gonna go snap some pics and put them up!!!
All I need to do is tighten the belt tensioner (need a wierd swivel knuckle), pop in the plugs, refill the fluids, put in the FMU, and install my oil sandwich plate (which I'm waiting on).
As of right now I'm just gonna run the car with stock injectors and a 2.87" pulley. I'm not gonna boost it that much, but I am going to make sure I don't have other problems before I upgrade to 440's.
What should I gap my plugs to? I saw in the stickies .034-.038. I was thinking .038 seeing that I'm not running ridiculous boost.
Finally: Is there a way to take the blower off of the plate while installed and not take the plate off the motor? I had to take off the plate+blower and I'm already seeing that its a complete pain in the buttocks.
Ohh yeah...I'm gonna go snap some pics and put them up!!!
07-09-2009, 05:37 AM
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Simply => I pm'd you back.
Alright....so I guess I did something wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Everything worked perfect: car idled nicely and drove around just like before. I started creeping up into boost and even made it up to 7 psi!
Then of course I whack it in first.....
I don't know if I hit redline(I lost traction immediately and made definitely close to 10psi), but I do know that my charge piping blew off! It was quite a scary incident and I'm definitely not doing that again until I have everything perfect.
So, I drive the car home for like .3 miles not knowing what's wrong. Its acting like it has a dead maf - and the maf was on the part of the piping that came off. Get home and am pumped to see its "JUST" my piping. I put everything back on extra tight and try to start her back up.
It still is acting like I have a dead maf -> 2.25k redline, but still driveable at slow speeds.
What are the chances I had a backfire and it fried my maf? Anything else that it could be that would give me a 2.25k redline?
Alright....so I guess I did something wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Everything worked perfect: car idled nicely and drove around just like before. I started creeping up into boost and even made it up to 7 psi!
Then of course I whack it in first.....
I don't know if I hit redline(I lost traction immediately and made definitely close to 10psi), but I do know that my charge piping blew off! It was quite a scary incident and I'm definitely not doing that again until I have everything perfect.
So, I drive the car home for like .3 miles not knowing what's wrong. Its acting like it has a dead maf - and the maf was on the part of the piping that came off. Get home and am pumped to see its "JUST" my piping. I put everything back on extra tight and try to start her back up.
It still is acting like I have a dead maf -> 2.25k redline, but still driveable at slow speeds.
What are the chances I had a backfire and it fried my maf? Anything else that it could be that would give me a 2.25k redline?
07-09-2009, 07:59 AM
#36
Glad you got it all installed and if its only revving to 2500 that sounds like either a dead maf or loose connection. I would check all connections and try to reset the ecu. Also the 5th gen maf's are very very fragile.
07-09-2009, 11:21 AM
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Yeah so I got a new maf from my buddy and that's definitely what it was. Car runs fine except now its misfiring from a bad coil or at least I think that's what it is. When I unplug it the idle doesn't change at all.
Unfortunately I have a leak from my thermostat housing which totally sucks. I may have to order a new one because it probably got warped from me hammering it
Anyways my buddy is giving me an srt-4 oem intercooler, so I'm going to take everything out and put it back together with my maf on the intake side.
Do you guys know of any 5th genner's with a cold air intake?
Unfortunately I have a leak from my thermostat housing which totally sucks. I may have to order a new one because it probably got warped from me hammering it
Anyways my buddy is giving me an srt-4 oem intercooler, so I'm going to take everything out and put it back together with my maf on the intake side.
Do you guys know of any 5th genner's with a cold air intake?
07-09-2009, 07:32 PM
#38
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Yeah so I got a new maf from my buddy and that's definitely what it was. Car runs fine except now its misfiring from a bad coil or at least I think that's what it is. When I unplug it the idle doesn't change at all.
Unfortunately I have a leak from my thermostat housing which totally sucks. I may have to order a new one because it probably got warped from me hammering it
Anyways my buddy is giving me an srt-4 oem intercooler, so I'm going to take everything out and put it back together with my maf on the intake side.
Do you guys know of any 5th genner's with a cold air intake?
Unfortunately I have a leak from my thermostat housing which totally sucks. I may have to order a new one because it probably got warped from me hammering it
Anyways my buddy is giving me an srt-4 oem intercooler, so I'm going to take everything out and put it back together with my maf on the intake side.
Do you guys know of any 5th genner's with a cold air intake?
You might have locked up an injector, I haven't done it yet after about 4k miles with the 3.12 pulley and an fmu, but the car I pulled the kit off of (running the same pulley) had one locked up. When you run to much boost on stock injectors and use a FMU to raise the fuel pressure to insane levels...... well the injectors don't like that very much and will lock up. You can pull the coil and watch for spark with a plug in it to rule out the coil, and of course compression test the cylinder, but if it's a front cylinder that's not firing it's just as easy to swap the injector if you don't hav e a compression tester on hand.
That's what I was thinking........ In 2-weeks there is also going to be a turbo 5th gen rolling around, and if nobody buys my kit possibly another sc'd 5th gen.
07-10-2009, 08:00 AM
#39
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Eastern Mississippi
Posts: 780
Hmm interesting. I didn't know that high fuel pressure could lock them up. If I had the car running and I put say a hose on the injector and the other end in my ear I should be able to hear it clicking right? Would it still click if it was locked?
I'm almost certain its my coil though because this is the same cylinder that was misfiring before I put the s/c'r on. It would misfire until warm and then would be fine most of the time. There was like a week where it would misfire every time and not run right but it just went away one day.
I'm almost certain its my coil though because this is the same cylinder that was misfiring before I put the s/c'r on. It would misfire until warm and then would be fine most of the time. There was like a week where it would misfire every time and not run right but it just went away one day.
07-10-2009, 01:17 PM
#40
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Sagamore Beach, MA
Posts: 694
DFOWNZ, glad to see you are finally boosted. Don't know if you remember me, but I almost bought a lot of your supercharger stuff like 3 years ago.