Ok, iv come to the point that I need someone help!

Basically, I am in the process of tuning my car. for WOT tuning i got that perfectly, but everyone knows how to tune for WOT, now where im stuck at, is tuning for part throttle. for example.

When your cruising say 60mph at 2k, the ecu is putting out aprox 40degree's of timing at most. As you apply a little bit of throttle, timing stays high, 28 degree's but also boost starts to come in for example about 1psi by 2.5k rpm at still little throttle (less than 15%). How much timing should I be pulling here? or better yet, on a turbo car how much timing should there be given that same condition?

Iv been going crazy looking for a good table to use as reference but found nothing, just one over at the Miata's but useless. Is anyone willing to share with me their timing table or knowledge on this please?

As for what my setup consist of is, emanage blue with MAP sensor, and my timing table is based on (relative pressure) vs. RPM. Turbo charged and boost starts to come in about 2500 (.5psi for example) or even sooner than that depending on how much load is being applied or if i got people in the car or going up hill, etc..
other quick thing that might be important is my compression, which is at 8.8:1

Can anyone please help me out with this?

I dont thnk you need to pull any timing during partial throddle. I havent pulled any.

how early are you getting boost in rpms?

i was adding 2 degrees all the way up intill 3 psi the back to 0 by 5-6. Then at 10 and up i was pulling timing by a degree per pound intill 14 psi then 2 degrees per pound from there on up

About 3,500 It takes forever for it to boost up.

thats the thing, i start building boost at about 2500 where timing is still very high

I had a hx35 also you are fine with stock timing I noticed 0 knock with stock timing and under 7psi. YOu are most likey to knock at around peak torque so at 3600 to 4500 you would back it down at higher boost. I was tunning with eu and pressure sensor. At 1.5 psi I was running about 4 degress more than stock and At 0 I was running about 10degress and around 1psi I was running about 7 and so on with know knock.

my hx35 on my dek 6speed motor would start building in 2nd at 2400 and would have a full 14psi 3800rpms

I see, good info. Now are those degree's ur refering too WOT or in part throttle?

any throttle because im tunning with a pressure sensor so if im at 20 and hit 3 psi at 2500 it will the degree its told and if im at 72% throttle at 3 psi it will still do the same degree at at 2500 + or - what the ecu sends already.

wich harness are you using ?

u use the ignition harness

Choray and 95turbo, what AFR were(or are) you guys getting during part throttle boost? my part throttle boost right now, for example 1-2psi at 2500+ is about low/mid 11's A/F. Think its too rich?

I would think that was too rich, just doing some reading around on the net and most guys start adding fuel at 3 psi. 1-2 psi is nothing with your lower compression, I'm adding at 3 psi stock compression. Plus as they say psi means nothing since turbos are different.

my air fuel is also done by pressure and I have no stock o2's my air fuel is from 1 to 3psi is at about 12.5- 12.9 and after 4 to 7psi are 11.6- 11.8 after 8 psi they are in the low 11's

Also running higher timing and leaner a/f at low psi like 1-3psi helps the turbo spool right on up.

good info

Ok, so I setup the EU already, everything is running fine. Now I have an issue. I have a GM 3BAR MAP sensor, however on the emanage its not reading the proper relative pressure(psi), example if I got 5psi at the gauge, the EU shows 10psi. I tried to change the value on the Log screen to Voltage, so that I can log that instead of the relative pressure, but theres nowhere that gives me the option to change it to voltage (since the PSI is incorrect).

Can anyone give me any tips on how I can go about this, either to get the voltage to show, or to get the proper reading of PSI. I have also verified my wiring for the sensor and its correct.

Look in dandy maxs write up
Page # 34,(option1) Scoll through the factory psi sensor screen.
I selected a honda civic d15b for my zt2 psi sensor.
ZT2 is like $60 Or you could always grap a sensor from the junkyard.

Edit
I just came across this thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/6302324-post41.html

So in other words, I cant use my GM sensor properly? if thats the case i'll just go by voltage then. Dosnt matter if it dont say psi, but that really sucks.

Just saw this thread after I'd already replied to your PM streets but yeah unfortunately the voltage curve for the GM sensor is not programmed into the EU, so it can't be used plug and play. I originally had a GM sensor on my car too before switching to one off a Honda when I was doing the MAF delete. Anyways, as I said in the PM, you can either:

a) get a different sensor that you know is off an engine in the drop down list
b) try to choose different engines in the list hoping one will match the voltage curve of the GM sensor (not too likely given they're all Jap cars)
c) run the sensor on the Analog Input and use the voltage

thanx for your post dandymax, i went ahead and orderd a greddy sensor, to save all the head ache. getting a psi reading while logging will make it so much easier to tune than having to guess at what boost i was at, since the log screen shows the wrong PSI, although when you click on an RPM in your log, it highlights the correct voltage on the table, but its not the best way to be tuning.

OK, problem solved. I had to get the Greddy map sensor, 44shipped, now it reads boost properly. i guess like it was mentioned, the voltage curves are different.