dynod the frontyard boostkit
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,468
From: Greensboro, NC
There have been many VQ35s running 450-550whp for long periods of time on the Z forums. Obviously engines that fail are more likely to be posted about than those that aren't, so there are also plenty of posts about blown engines on the forums. In most cases the problem is with tuning, lean spike, etc.
I think a VQ35 will hold over 450whp, a shop i know has what they call a "mule" a stock 350Z with only exhaust, clutch, and a turbo kit and its making 450whp and they said they just turned it down, but its been running like that for over 2 years, they built it to prove VQ35 werent as weak as people think
Good power on that DEK, making 3.5 numbers, pretty nice. Although not really usable since that power was made from such lean conditions, usually an engine makes the most power right before it is about to blow, so not really practical.
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp?
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp?
Last edited by streetzlegend; Dec 7, 2009 at 06:11 PM.
I think a VQ35 will hold over 450whp, a shop i know has what they call a "mule" a stock 350Z with only exhaust, clutch, and a turbo kit and its making 450whp and they said they just turned it down, but its been running like that for over 2 years, they built it to prove VQ35 werent as weak as people think
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,296
Good power on that DEK, making 3.5 numbers, pretty nice. Although not really usable since that power was made from such lean conditions, usually an engine makes the most power right before it is about to blow, so not really practical.
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp?
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp?
What do you mean 3.5 numbers???? made 375 at 8-9 psi from what i understand. which is right at the power levels i made with my dek. 393 at 10 psi.
The only thing that he didnt have is meth, which is why detonation hurt the motor. if it would have been the lean condition he would have melted a piston. I detonated at ~7 psi right around 355sh whp, therefore i needed the meth since i didnt have any timing control. Im sure the car made wicked power with full timing at 11 psi , but i would have to guess also detonating, therefore hurting the motor, hence yes, not really usable power
more fun to play at safe power levels for a while than make crazy power for an instance.
the detonation will come in at different boost levels for different engines, but its usually at the same hp levels, since its combustion cylinder pressures that will cause it, hence kinda = to hp levels not boost.
drop in the eau and control the timing and or do the meth kit and tune , make 4th gear pulls so you can tune for the full boost after some higher load boost creep.
Streetz, i believe its my old feed/down pipe modified a bit due to rust and slight clearence issues, i still havent been able to see the car, it snowed this weekend and i didnt leave the crib
Last edited by aic96max; Dec 7, 2009 at 07:32 PM.
The closer you have it to the compressor (its best to just tap the compressor housing outlet) the less boost creep you should experience also keep those lines as short as possible.
oh can we make that LOooolowww 
hit me up if youre gonna be turning wrenches on weds or thurs, im off and i can roll by and give you a hand.
You guys should jump on the J&S for real. My three O lasted about 2.5 years with alot of abuse and meth, but it could have probably lived alot longer if I had the JS back then, I had it at 15psi on aic96max's old turbo and the car was crazy, but would smoke up everytime i came to a stop from major blowby (probably broken ring lands due to inexperienced tuning).
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock.
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock.
lol, was an fmu a bad thing?
vacuum line is kinda long. the feed to the WG is about 8" from the flange, BUT now that i think about it, when i made the WG feed and dump, the tubing might be the cause of the creep
ok, thanks man
give me about 5mins for the pix
lol, yea.. it still runs but is about to T.K.O. lol
yea, i planned on getting one before i even started the new motor
You guys should jump on the J&S for real. My three O lasted about 2.5 years with alot of abuse and meth, but it could have probably lived alot longer if I had the JS back then, I had it at 15psi on aic96max's old turbo and the car was crazy, but would smoke up everytime i came to a stop from major blowby (probably broken ring lands due to inexperienced tuning).
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock.
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock.
No a fmu is not bad. I almost regret selling mines
.
I went straight off your mods list & I was trying to figure out how you made so much power on 290cc inj's without a fpr & or fmu. I guess you forgot to list the small stuff.
That 3" piping looks good though compared to my 2.25-2.5"
.I went straight off your mods list & I was trying to figure out how you made so much power on 290cc inj's without a fpr & or fmu. I guess you forgot to list the small stuff.
That 3" piping looks good though compared to my 2.25-2.5"
But with that boost you are going to want to lose all those hose clamps and get t-bolt clamps, it will stop your pipes from blowing off.
though t-bolts are nicer
Tbolt clamps are sometimes overated, matter of fact iv had the pipe come off on the only location I have a tbolt clamp (no bead), all my piping has regular clamps but beaded everywhere, so i dont have issues. I have had it all the way upto 20psi.
UPDATE!
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but,
MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump.
soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but,
MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump.
soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting
UPDATE!
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but,
MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump.
soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but,
MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump.
soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting
well, i retract that last statement. I got everything out, i have 4chunks of metal in my oil pan and 1 piece on the gurdel, no idea where that pieces are coming from..it has a hash design on all the pieces so might have came from the heads 
.. the motor ran fine though minus cyl # 3 misfire. so i rather not chance it, just gonna get another 3.0 until the 3.5 is built. gay
.. the motor ran fine though minus cyl # 3 misfire. so i rather not chance it, just gonna get another 3.0 until the 3.5 is built. gay
Maybe the pieces of metal are bearings? I know my rod bearing ended up in my oil pan melted into a big glob. If the metal is from your heads it is most likely from your valves right? Sucks man, I know how you feel