well the pieces are about 1/2" thick, so definently not the bearings and they're aluminum. im going to go look on one of my old motors now see if i can find a similar part

 

"Hash" design sounds more like the piston. Rotate each piston toward the crank (bdc) & see if the connecting rod & skirts are still intact.
If it were from the heads you would of bent a valve

 

well, i think your right accordingtou.. they all have a slight bend to them. the outer, longer side is smooth and some have like a black paint or tint to them. the inner side of those pieces have a has design. anyone have a picture of the stock piston

 

yeah, i was thinkin the piston skirts

See if anything looks like this(from my broken 3.5):

 

ding ding! WINNER piston skirt.. the pic 15 & 16helped alot

 

edit

15 & 16 from this post

http://my350z.com/forum/forced-induc...hd-uk-car.html

 

Damn man, that's a bust. Thought you saved the motor. Are you gonna get another DEK or just get a 3.5?

3.5's are cheap as hell now.

 

A vq30de until Vadim finishes building my 3.5 then i shall raise hell!!!! precision 6262 billet FTW!

 

Damn, that's gonna be sick!

What are you going to do about the tranny at that point?

 

keep rebuild whatever breaks in it until i can afford a par 3rd and possibly 4th.lol

i dont plan to drag too much until next season unless necessary or alot of money is on the line to fix it if i break it.. i usually do roll racing.

 

It should last a little longer if you roll race.

You could do a 6 speed swap!

 

wait vadim from NY is building your 3.5.....oh this is gonna be intresting

 

ooo boy, here we go again

 

i heard he knows his ***** so i smell a beast on the horizon

 

i heard the same thing too man, i heard he built alot of these big name maximas out here in alaska

 

Vadim built my 3.5 and I went over 10k miles at 415whp on a vortech. I was the first one running rev-up cams in my 4.5gen. +1 for Vspec motors.

 

415whp.........d@mn man...enough said

 

is that daily driven or driven sometimes? and did he fully build it or just did the timing and cams?

 

hmmmmm u got a point there, but this vadim dude sounds nice, i think imma come out to the east coast and have him build me a motor so i can be the fastest motor out here, especially wid all this cold air, i could even have him make me a cold air intake

 

but didn't that motor pop, if not please correct me cause 10k miles ain't ****

that works out to be 1 build motor a year

 

Aaron, if you build a 3.5,make sure its done right, and i would not stop at 6262, billet or not, spending that kind of money on a snail, id make sure im covered for good. id go a but bigger something that will go into the 700s, and a 100 shot to get it going. but i was hesitant to put down such power due to these trannies. no fun when you break ****

 

def a beast, nice setup

 

I hope you don't mean a bottom end build. That isn't so good, if so.

 

What do you mean? because its low HP for a built motor?

 

Unless it was a bad tune, having a built bottom-end 3.5 blow after 10k miles at those power numbers seems like a bad return on investment.

 

Couldn't agree more. I'd be pissed.

 

It was daily driven. Motor had ARP rod/head/main studs, custom cometic HG, revup cams custom timed, SSIM ported upper and lower, PF TB, PF IACV, etc etc...

Just no pistons and rods, car was driven and raced DAILY.

 

I ran 415whp for 10k miles on a stock 3.5 before I crashed it. LOL at that ain't ****.

I crashed the car with the motor in it, and built a new one becuase a 2x4 went through the front valve cover and knocked the cams out of whack.

 

The reason people were saying it "ain't ****" is because you said it was built. In most cases when you call an engine built, you're referring to a bottom end build. If it was a built bottom end, that wouldn't be impressive.

A stock bottom end 3.5 being beat on daily and lasting 10k miles at over 400whp is pretty great, though. Plus like you said you crashed it, it didn't blow, it may have lasted a lot longer.

 

Yeah the way you worded it seemed like everyone should have been impressed a built motor only last 10k miles when a stock 3.5 can do that. Now saying it had a stock bottem end and went bad cause you crashed is different.

 

Actually I said "Vadim built my engine", as in assembled it. I guess poor choice of words.

 

any updates

 

yep, back up and running as of weds. got new plugs, rolled all the piping, got the afrs around 12.0-12.5 cruising, and about 10.7-11.8 WOT and boosting to about 9-10psi.. i dont go WOT though, waiting to get a tune so i dont blow anything.. Should i retard my timing 2* or ill be ok for now?

 

Im not sure what monitoring tuning device you have. but I wwould start off with colder plugs cut & side gapped (grey99max style) & go from there.
Also not sure wht size injectors you are running but you could lower base fuel pressure & add fuel via an apexi controller until 2* are pulled

 

All depends on what turbo you have. If its one like Alvaro's old turbo which put out 9psi and gave him basically 400whp. then yes you have to retard timing or add meth. But if the turbo is not THAT efficient on such low boost then I would start retarding after 9-10. with a t04b I was running timing at around 16degree's (max) no meth and 15psi. This all depends on if your knocking or not. You also got much cooler weather too, so things differ compared to Miami.

 

yep, a little over 400whp at 9lbs.
bkr6e's gapped to .030~.032
vafc2
innovate lc1 WBo2
rc440's

 

Badass man!

Good to hear you got it running again!
That a/f that you have now should be alright.
I would retard the timing 2*, just to be on the safe side.

 

yo aaron lookin good...hit me up when u get a chance...need some assistance

 

No dyno no Care! stop claiming unconfirmed numbers...sorry man , had to say it .......lmao

in this cold weather, the car should make more power! so i would keep boost at 8 psi, as i would expect some detonation at after 350 whp which you should easily be at at that psi. And if you are getting 2 psi of boost creep, then put it down to 7 to compensate and definitely do 4th grear pulls on the dyno. it doesnt load the car like the street does.not sure how you would know exactly how much timing the safc is pulling???? id love to know..anyone?? Hopefully i can roll by monday to check out the whip.. I cant belive that clutch is holding, freaking awesome,,my stocker slipped at about 4-5 psi..but that was an autozone clutch set


Good ****, keep up the good work, holla at me when you go Dyno

 

you can confirm timing with a scan tool