Can someone talk me out of getting rid of this car.... I just installed my new master power t70 with .68 a/r exhaust side....

My car now dosent start... With my blown turbo it started and drove... Now with the new turbo put on, I now have a brand new crankshaft position sensor code... I've been driving the car not boosting it with the blown turbo for about a week and a half.. Yes I will swap the sensor and see if that is the issue...

... Somebody please help... I dont mean to sound like a hater, but why is it that everyone else on here puts up their setups and it runs and drive perfectly, puts down great numbers and they are on their merry way...

With me I've been boosted since thanksgiving and havent felt 3 psi... Sorry for the rave im just extremely frustated.... Any help will be extremely appreciated...

 

need more details, what did to touch/remove to install the new turbo. what did you check so far.

 

^ all i did was install wideband.. remove some intercoller piping and primed and prepped turbo...

 

I wouldn't say that everyone has their setup run and drive perfectly right away. Look at Kevlo's thread and all the issues he had. I bought a kit that was supposed to take a little modification to fit and it ending up taking almost 60 hours to get everything modifed and installed. Once I got it working, the transmission went after just 300 miles of driving. lol. You are boosting a car that was never meant to be boosted so there are going to be issues. But in the end you have something that is unique and will be well worth all the effort.

 

thanks bro... its something like dat i needed to hear..

 

I would say only 40% of the people that boost their maximas have their car 100% perfectly running since day one of installation. I have gone through hell with my car, ofcourse my setup was the very first so no resources to get help from, but at the end its well worth it, all the hard work pays off.

Just for the hell of it, where is your MAF? is it a blow through setup? if yes, get the maf and spray some MAF Cleaner (not breakparts cleaner!!!), reason i say is perhaps from the turbo being bad it threw a lil bit of oil on the sensor.

 

^ Blow through setup your right ill check that out too...

 

any updates

 

I did some research through the search function..it turns out the car has a cold start problem, my spark plugs are fouled and my fuel pressure at startup is 42 psi...

need to change plugs and install my adjustable fpr and turn down the fuel pressure to stock and I should be alright...

 

i would love to come and see your set-up when you get it fixed all i need now is the piping for my set-up but i have to find someone who can handle the job

 

^ Yea bro when its all said and done i'll let u know..

 

I didn't turbo, I supercharged but believe me in saying it hasn't been a smooth ride. When I first got it installed I think I had it working for no more than a month until I blew the transmission. Then I got oil leaks, had to reservice the blower - twice! I had belt shredding issues which were fixed with mattys plate. I had fuel issues, more oil leaks, alternator (unrelated). I've often thought about throwing in the towel - but perseverence is your friend in this game, coz when she's running sweet - you have something special and unique. Keep it up dude

 

forced induction a maxima is about the breif 12 days of absolute joy to drive, and then the 6 months after it to fix it up again.

This is the same when you push any car, you find the weakest point, fix that, and find the next weekest point.

I personally have a couple of minor things to fix up and a massive oil leak. but i used to not be able to see any boost, had massive boost leak problems, oil coming out the back of the turbo, leaks in the exhaust system, problems with my maf, etc. the amount of fabrication that i had to do to keep this turbo running is pretty insane, and its still not perfect!!!

oh well, its fun to drive so i done care

 

it's all part of the game..

 

I attempted to start the car so many times my starter went.. I have it under autozone lifetime warranty so it was a 10 minute job..

Today I installed 1-step colder platinum ngk plugs... I gapped them pretty low, to about .32... Car starts and idles pretty good... I am at 42 psi of fuel pressure at idle. (Z32 Maf, Z32 Injectors & Walbro Hi Flow Pump) I am using an AFC Neo and Zeinotronix Zt2 Wideband

What i have found effective to get the car starting now under cold - start conditions is, First attempt to crank.. then pull the fuel pump fuse, crank again the car then automatically starts and I pop back in the fuse... Dangerous but effective..

I am now having a problem under WOT if i slowly accelerate the rpms go up smoothly.. Under HI throttle the car bogs and hits a wall showing symptoms of a blown maf.. My other problem is absolutely ridicolous but true, when my hood is open the car revs fine when i close my hood the car breaks up and under any kind of acceleration, results in the car stalling..

My two questions to you guys are does the car hit this wall because of lack of afc tuning? My wideband is installed BUT my downpipe is no longer connected because my preivous turbo had a 3.5" vband and the new one has a 3" vband, so I need to go to my welder... Is there anything I can do to get the car driveable in terms of correction via afc neo....?

 

what are your in/out settings

 

Went with In 2 Out 4 as per old threads...

 

mines is 4/4

 

^Are you using a z32 maf? what form of boost?

 

no boost i just figuerd it would be the same

 

Ok I talkd to my buddy and he said there's 2 grnds on that maf, make sure you have 1 going to the engine harness and the other to the body of the car.

 

a z32 maf uses different setting than a stock maf

 

I finally boosted the car to 4 psi.... It stumbled all the way up but it boosted.. I was finally proud...

But can anyone out there tell me why I have to drive with no hood..For the car to idle and drive ? Anyone have any ideas? Its not the maf I checked all the wires... Nothing seems to be getting pinched...

Has anyone ever experienced anything like this?

 

That is weird, the only thing that is electrical that is involved with the hood being opened or closed is that hood switch and I think that is for the stock security system. Maybe you should check your ground cables.

 

That exactly what i see and thought.. I went and disconnected the hood sensor for both the stock and aftermarket alarm... I'm going to do my best to make a video...

My vacuum in mercury increases, my lights slightly dim, and the idles and rpm get low and fades... right before it all dies... (When hood is closed or even cracked, it must be more than 40% open)

The only thing I do see is a large amount of condensation when i first start the car... the intercooler piping, and the turbo sweat.. When the car warms up all that stops but smoke(maybe oil) passes through the side of the hood..

Its' like the motor is a steam room and the hood lets out the steam.. If that makes any sense...

 

My problems are simple but solving them comes hard...

The downpipe for my car as I said before wasnt connected because of lack of being able to go to my welder.. The exhaust side of the turbo produces some much heat that even with a heat shield now.. It was warming my charge piping, my maf, and all my wires...

I simply created a small enclosure connecting the exhaust side of the turbo to the downpipe and my problem is now solved....The car drives, revs and idles perfectly...

Going to get things welded bright and early tommorow morning... Thanks for all the help.. you guys know who you are..

 

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=tur...1&_from=&_ipg=

You need the 100dolla ones

 

I bought the turbonetics version from jegs.. for $100 thinking it would be the best, but it dosent come with straps to tie it down but transfers absolutely nooooo heat... I boosted the car and it was cold as ice... I believe the ebay shields get warm and are made of some accessible flammable material
http://www.jegs.com/i/Turbonetics/880/30223/10002/-1