well, i picked up a V2 kit. Im not here to ask any questions about installation, ive read write ups many times, so i think im ok there. Im not asking about my setup, i already know what im using now, and what i need for future setups. im asking about any daily dos and donts that a person new to supercharging may not be used to. for example, i have a few questions to start me off:

1. I once saw someone state on here to stay out of boost at low rpm because it can cause damage. he was speaking about a turbo setup, does this apply to a s/c setup as well? and how do i do that? or did he simply mean if im gonna WOT it, not to do it at low rpms, and to downshift? what is too low?

2. After a spirited drive, or any drive for that matter, does the car (s/c) need to "cool down" before i shut it off, similar to what turbo guys do (turbo timer)?

3. Im thinking maybe i should carry a stock belt with me at all times, juuuuuust in case. Cuz if i snap a belt, im not gonna have 3+ spare hours on the side of the road to install a belt to get me going again. So it sounds like a good idea to me. The stock belt should still fit right? no pulleys will be in the way of the stock routing? and its perfectly fine for the blower to be mounted (with oil lines and all), without an actual belt on it?

If you have any other advice it would be greatly appreciated. Its my only car, will definitely be taken on 12+ hour trips a few times a year, just wanna learn the tips and tricks to a s/c'd car. Thanks guys.

 

1. Turbo cars tend to build boost more independently of SC'd cars. A supercharger as you know builds boost as a function of the RPM on the crank pulley, whereas a turbo car builds boost off of the exhaust velocity.

Reason some say to stay "out of boost" (aka not letting the turbo spool) is not necessarily at low RPM but at low load, because at part throttle the car is running the more ignition timing than at WOT. This isn't a problem on low boost setups (regardless of turbo or S/C), however if you are gonna use a 10-13psi pulley you are gonna have to retard your ignition maps to prevent knocking at part throttle/cruise.

2. The bearings in a centrifugal should be treated the same as the bearings in a turbo, which means you should let the car idle for a little bit (search for how long, I think 30-90 seconds) to let fresh oil flow over the S/C bearings and cool it down, therefore extending the life of it.

3. If I can recall, the belt shredding issues are due to the V2 plate and also the idler pulley. Check the stickies in the boosted section for part numbers for the Lexus idler pulley, the S/C should operate reliably without any belt issues.

 

1) No - not a concern for centrifugal SCs which you have.

2) No - not if you're using a synthetic oil which you should be since it is a modded car that will be driven aggressively at times. Synthetic oils do not coke up like dino oils do, and SC bearing sections do not get nearly as hot as turbo center sections do. Unless you're literally boosting through the parking lot in to your parking spot, there is no need for a cooldown. Turbo cars don't need turbo timers anymore with modern synthetic oils, SCs do not put nearly the stress on the oil that turbo cars do.

3) I can't answer that question, I don't have enough experience with maxima SC setups. I can tell you that you can drive the car at night with headlights on with a mediocre battery for about 2 hours, much longer with a really good battery. I've done it.

 

I'll add the following....

Belt shredding issues are due to poor installation and not the V2 plate itself. People have even had problems with the infamous Lexus idler pulley too, so that theory is out the window as well. It all boils down to installation, and using the parts Stillen provided, or true equivalent parts (not close enough parts)
Although I agree syn oil should be used when possible, I'll add that unless you have new seals on your engine, or you have really low mileage, you may want to stick with a good dino oil. You might experience oil leaks once switched to syn.


OP, carrying a spare OEM belt and basic tools is a good idea, and works just fine with the blower/plate installed.

 

i had a V2 kit, and i never had the belt shredding issue a lotta people said i would when i was just doing my install. so i agree with wizard, proper installation/allignment is key. i also shaved down the center nub, which is useless IMO to help with clearance.

 

thanks for the comforting words about shredding. my plate also has that nub cut down a little bit, but not completely. im excited to get this thing put on, im just missing a bend for the dek tb ( a 90* bend should work), and the parts for a cai on the sc. Also, these standoff bolts are incredibly hard to source, as in almost impossible from what i can tell. any other suggestions? its almost coming to a point where i may have to use a longer bolt, coupled with a bunch of washers, and the plate may have to rest on it. but i really dont wanna do that! or i can just put a long bolt through the plate, with a bunch of washer. i dont really understand why the stillen writeup says those bolts are necessary to do FIRST cuz of possible oil leaks? i dont see that happening....

 

you live 2 hours away from me, Ive done plenty of SCers, V1, and V2s. Why are you stressing? relax and source help from members near by. Maybe since I dont post alot anymore Theres a couple of guys that know both kits by heart. But Ive taken apart many. I just have to see what you got and what you are missing.

 

Damn Steve, I totally forgot tell you i was going to be in high point sunday and monday, would have dropped by. But yeah, like Jay said, don't stress about it too much.


OT: Didn't know you were in NC Jay.

 

It says it right there under my avatar. You guys dont even look that? Maybe if I put a naked girl on there it will be more noticable!! I live in NC. I live 30 mins NE of Raleigh. Its a small town, but is peaceful!!!! VERY

 

oh na im not stressing, just thought id learn a few things before i start with the install thats all. and trying to get ideas about the bolts im missing, particularly the standoff bolts. but as far as installation goes, im not worried about it.

 

hey, my kit uses a j30 pulley as the tensioner pulley. the idler pulley is a metal one with siderails, would u all suggest swapping that one out as well to a j30 or another one without rails?

also, whats wrong with using the stock tensioner pulley? (ive never read into why it cant be reused as either the tensioner or idler considering its already a metal one without rails)