while he was wrong, youre also wrong...the tires youre referring to are the cheater slicks. Theyre DOT approved tires not true slicks. If I didnt already know that those are the sizes of their cheater slicks it would be obvious those arent because slicks are always spec'd in height, width and rim diameter, not the width, tire wall ratio, and rim diameter that you posted

 

Ok, finally received the email with dyno results. Enjoy.

 

Holy dip! Looks like you have a lot more area to make under the curve if that afr was steady. What are you using to tune and why wasn't that problem addressed?

 

I would not be happy at all with that tune... That is one nasty dip you have from 5000-5600 or so as well.

 

He could not address the dip at all. Nothing he did could get rid of the dip. I believe Tim from SFR told me before it something to do with the variable timing are cars have. I really don`t know. Even the original graph has the dip. So dip it will be. Umm is that all you can say not like, "hea man nice gain over old graph". lol

The tune program is split second.

 

hea man nice gain over old graph

 

Top end looks a lot better. It would be nice to see a graph with the cutout closed.

 

Get retuned asap. I'm guessing the weather and humidity in your area is nothing compared to Santee, CA, where Speed Force Racing is located. Your a/f ratio is all over the place.

 

so youre using a split second additional injector controller? stock timing? why did you use cams? planning on going bigger? think you could have made these numbers without them.... but that car must be a hell of a ride..love to see these dynos... good stuff

 

See just a little loves all I want. (No homo)

 

The cams were put in about 4 years ago. Then turboed about 1 1/2 years ago. So the cams were already done. I saw no gain at all with those cams, JWT S1. They are the biggest piece of crap out there. What a waste of money. So no, not going bigger. I always wonder what my factory cams would make in the car. I`m guessing probably the same numbers. He did adjust the timing somewhat. But split second only allows you to do so much.

 

so does the split second like a piggy back or injector only, or additional injectors? i think on the 5.5s the nissan ecu tool can adjust the timing

 

Haha sorry man it's a nice gain over the old graph, but you need to slap your tuner silly because that A/F "curve" looks like a roller coaster. In a few spots it's actually a good bit leaner than most F/I people would feel comfortable with. Solid 11.8s or so and you could probably run more timing as well...

 

You should have seen some powerband shift and upper RPM gains going from 240/238 9.57mm lift stock cams to 260/260 10.87mm lift S1 cams... that's a pretty big difference. Of course you'd have seen very little or none of it without a proper tune.

You mentioned that your tuner blamed that dip on intake cam timing. You should look for a used Greddy Vmanage... You can control intake CVTC with that and it would probably make for gains on a turbo car, especially if that dip is really because of the cam timing.

 

nice my cousin made a extra 40 hp with his cutout open....

 

that split second box is killing you. those are terrible tuners, regardless of your setup. Also, the afr curve isnt the result of the variable timing, it the result of either bad tuning or that crappy SS box. I bet you could make a lot more area under the curve running a UTEC or something with near its capabilities.

 

Nice power but yeah like veryone is saying, you need to have your tuner actually tune the car. Those dips or spikes (depends how you look at it) are not acceptable. either stick to 12's afr or low 11afr

That jump in af to mid12 at 4700 is the reason you got 389, now if the afr would have stayed in the 12's that torque would have stayed up there. If it was my ride, I would lower that 4700 peak to mid 11's instead of mid 12'safr, you will have less peak torque but a smoother and flatter curve.

If you know you aint knocking for sure with 12's afr, then tune the whole thing to 12s, that torque will be up there as well as the HP will not dip down before going up again.

How many degree's is your timing set for?

 

Here is my dyno from SFR, using the same split second box.

As you can see, there is no dip. Cam timing would not cause this. Could this dip be the net result of the cut out?

 

He had the dip in the previous dyno as well. Maybe it's in the tune? What does your timing look like?

 

could it be the cams fault??

 

Doubt it, just look at the graphs and what I mentioned above.

 

Not sure what the timing looks like. Did not ask for the graph. I cant believe it would be the timing thou. Rroderiques and my car were done by the same tuning guy using the same tune. And I always had that damn dip. Tim at SFR made like 50 pulls on the dyno I`m sure he would have addressed the dip if he could get the dip out. And streetz what your saying could be true but the tuner guy said thats the best he could get with the split second box. I think something is going on with those cams. From day one after install my light was on saying a random misfire. Now I know thats a problem around here. But the car was no different (butt dyno). And if Rroderiques is making his power at 6 psi. And I`m at 10 psi, now I`m making more power but not 4 psi difference.
I dont know, its got me confused. There is a 350z that the last guy tuned, he told me that this car has no more work done to it than mine and he is hitting 476 whp at 10 psi on a completly stock motor (no cams). It has me wondering.

 

dun dun dunnnnnnnn...........

 

Damn, still good power but kind of sucks that others are making more at same or lower boost with same mods more or less. Sucks even more the mission it is to change cams(to most). Im sure its fine but you should check your compression next time you change your plugs, just to rule stuff out.

 

Compression was checked right before turbo was installed and everything is a OK. If something happened to this motor I will be pulling these cams out and factory back in. I`m not saying cams aren`t a good upgrade but man these cams I have (JWT S1) are not. Oh well I will just be satified with what I have even so its still a good number, but I will agree the graph looks a little strange.

 

Oh how about the MAF sensor. I had just bought and installed my second one. But when I put them side by side they look exactly alike. The first time this happened to me I was like "what the hell". And called Tim from SFR and he said "Oh yea your MAF sensor is out". So I bought another one. Now just last week that one went out. So I bought the second one and installed. Its like every 6-7 months I am replacing them. Whats up with that. lol And is there a way to fix the old ones. The little wire in there looks fine.

So yea cams and this maf is my only problem. The cams I will live with, but the maf what can I do.

 

What maf is it? z32?

 

He has a 5th gen if im not mistaken. We cant use that MAF.

 

It's probably the stock MAF. I would measure voltage going into it. Maybe your burning them out.

 

Yea stock MAF. How or why would I be burning them out. Didn`t change any voltage going to it.

 

You shoudlnt be having issues at all, is it blow through or pull type setup? Only thing I can think of is bad filter therefor maf getting damaged. Try adding an additional ground to it, to the chassis or battery.

 

Ok heres the finished product.

 

That is absolutely gorgeous. Are you trying to distract us with that engine bay hoping we will forget about your tune? lol. Just playing. It looks awesome.

 

Beautiful

 

dam thats nice, not sure if there are alot of 5th gens with push through, but if you look at most OEM turno applications they are suck-through, i was told it saves the MAFs. i know alot of guys push through on the 4th gens, I had mines suck-through, 4 yrs, never replaced one maf, drove the car over 12k a year, daily...

 

I see you have both vac line hooked up on your wastegate, what are they going to cause my instructions call for one to just vent

 

Man that is one BAD *** ride! Does the wastegate dump or is it tied into the down pipe?

Also, I vaguely remember your thread on the code after cam install, I would verify timing. And I have to agree with others, that a/f is all over the place, but I don't think it's the cause of the dip, if anything maybe vice versa, it dips rich there because of poor combustion

 

Is the MAF wire touching it?

EDIT: My wastegate only has the bottom hose connected to it. Hmm....

 

Don't worry man my MAF burnt out a couple weeks ago... Still lookin for another solution beside stock, love dat engine bay..

 

Thanks. And yea it was worth a try.