Turbo 3# has just went on me.. They all die the same way and make the same high pitched whining noise while putting out no boost...

I went for a quick spin on the highway.. Boosted the car in 3rd gear caught 8.5 pounds then a coupler blew off near the ground and i heard the whine... I knew what it was so I didn't boost the car all the way home. I put back on the coupler, crossed my fingers and went for a drive, I caught 6.5 pounds WOT and knew i was screwed..

Boosted the car again, caught no boost and the whine is now extremely loud..

Part out thread coming soon!

Any ideas before i give up guys?

On the last two turbos i ran a restrictor, this time no restrictor as i thought that was the problem.. I also made sure that the drain was no longer on a weird slope...

 

You maybe over spinning the turbo, I had my boost source for the wg at the intake and would hit 10psi no problem. Then I tapped the ic pipe directly after the turbo and seen it was hitting 20+ psi. Which meant the turbo had to push 10psi over the boost setting to make up for the leaks.

I would place bost gauge at the turbo and intake to see the difference or do a leak test. I have a MP turbo with no restrictor and it's fine. The only other thing I can think of is your oil psi at the motor is low and starving the turbo

btw have you thought about rebuilding the turbo and if not how much for the t70

 

#1 check ALL your clamps and couplings for leaks ,

#2 check your vaccum lines,

usually when you send a turbo out of orbit its due to pressure leaks , get better clamps is #1

also I only would assume these turbos are new when purchase ?

 

What turbo is it?

 

For the first two turbos the boost source was on my first charge pipe after the turbo as well, now on this turbo its behind the throttle body...

any ideas of why my oil psi would be low?

 

First turbo was used, so I expected its condition to be the culprit,

second turbo was a brand new master power t70 covered under warranty, but manufacturer says a foreign object caused the turbo to go bad,

Third turbo was and i regret to say a brand new godspeed t62 turbo, which was just a backup until the master power came back

 

Checked some of the posts of the symptoms in your other thread and yes it seems you have boost leaks. I haven't had any real problems with my setup, other than trial and error things, I have 3 ply couplers with t-bolt clamps. I run a filter on the turbo inlet, I couldn't find your pics to see if you were running the turbo inlet open. At least put some aluminum screen material with a hose clamp especially since the t70 went because of a foreign object. Hope you get it worked out.

 

low oil level or worn motor

The problem is your wastegate source needs to be on the turbo or close as possible. If your waste source is at the intake and you have a boost leak the turbo will continue to spin till it reach set boost or die trying.

I would run the wg source at the turbo run spring psi and tap the intake for the boost gauge. example if you have a 8psi spring but 7psi your ok but if you only hit 4psi you have a boost leak.

btw, have you ever run a boost leak test on your car

 

I have a filter on the turbo..Thats why im fighting with master power now..Most of my piping are held by tbolts and boost leaks are very weird to me. (Very old pic below, with first turbo, I have filter on crankcase, and pipe is plugged off.., also have a heat shield)

When i first began using the master power turbo, and I was ran my boost source from the first charge pipe.. I never saw full wastegate boost, now that i get my source behind the throttle body i do..

Tell me if im correct, what you are saying is that with the source being as close to the turbo as possible if im not getting full wastegate boost i have a leak, but if my source is behind the manifold ill get full wastegate boost even with a leak? , just because the turbo is working extra hard?

In regards to a boost leak test havent ever felt like needed to run one, but i do now i guess. I assumed everything was ok seeing as i was getting full boost..

 

Your piping is curved going into the throttle body, is there anyway to fix that? Do you think it may be leaking there? Also make sure your bov has a dedicated vacuum connection (not teed off if possible) so that it is properly venting and not causing surge.

 

I'll definitely check that out and report back.. Fixing the curve may be a problem but the giving the BOV its own source will soon be done...

 

It doesn't make any sense that you see more boost at the intake manifold than at the turbo or right after. I would guess your source at the ic pipe had a leak.

I am positive you have a boost leak, now you just need to figure out where. Remember it is possible to hit full boost for example 8psi with a boost leak but depending on how bad he leak is your turbo may have to push around 20psi for you to still get it.

 

tommorow will be the figure it out day, i'll have to choose as i have the day off... And usually can only work on the car on the weekends, ill report back... need to figure this thing out next turbo will be my last..

 

deff boost leak , that can send any turbo into orbit.

 

Ok guys update, I took off my oil feed line and poured oil into the turbo it take a while for the oil to go down and into the return.. Would a bad or clogged return cause my turbo to go so suddenly? Wouldnt it just smoke like hell?

 

You can def mess up the seals if the turbo is not draining well.

 

Master Power said my shaft had gone bad and my turbine and compressor blades were chipped... Would an improper drain cause these things to happen?

 

I suppose bad draining could mess up the bearings on the shaft causing it to move more causing the blades to hit. Hot oil could get caked on there. I'm not 100% sure tho.

 

your right with your affirmation, it happened with one of my former project.
oil starvation. If he still have the turbos in his possession, he could check the turbine shaft color gradation. it should be rainbow colored if it cooked...

 

was afraid to open them up because of warranty but seeing as none of my warranties are gonna be honored might as well.. I'll check and try to take pictures..

 

Why aren't they gonna be honored?

Also what size drain pipe do you have? any pics of the entire setup?

 

First and foremost I dont knock any of the turbochargers I've used, when they worked I was definitely pleased..

This is what master power sent me:

Technician Notes:

All T/W blades broken due to foreign object damage.

Will need a 807627 kit and 807347 T/W to fix. Please advise how you would like to proceed.


They say that's not their fault and, but claim i need a new shaft as well...

I have a 10an return line and a 4an feed line... Dont have under the car pics..

 

Damn that sucks.

I don't think I saw it above, but do you have a filter on the turbo?

On the return line, is it always going down? Where is it tapped to?

 

he said there was a filter on the turbo and the oil return line is a good size

Wonder if he wass using a oil restrictor with the MP turbo cause I am not using anything with mine but like stated before if the bearing went it could cause the everything to go out of spec and make the blade hit.

Did you check for shaft play or again before you sent it back also did you check for boost leaks

 

tryed to rig up a boost leak tester but a buddy of mine flopped out on getting a compressor to me...

None of the turbos had excessive shaft play.. But they all began scratching the compressor housing.. Which sounds ridicolous i know... Guys i hopefully will get pics and video footage soon..

 

I made a tester:
http://forums.maxima.org/7582613-post408.html

I am gonna use a foot pump at first and if that can't get to 10psi ima use one of those tire pumps you put in the cig lighter.

 

looks good bro, make me 10 shipped?

 

your prob gonna need a reducer coupler depending on the inlet size on your turbo

 

Ha just hit up lowes depending on the size you need. It will take you like 20 min

 

^ will do, the plan is to run a 4 an inline oil filter, run a new drain line, and do a boost leak test...

First and foremost i will disconnect the drain from the upper oil pan but hold is steady in the same position, then start the car if oil comes out slowly or not at all drain is clogged or on a bad angle...

 

I had this happen to one of my HX holsets. First time it happened was while taking video, and you can hear in the video the turbo's whistle suddenly change to a deeper tone as well as sudden drop in boost. Turns out i had excessive shaftplay (blades touched the wall), then when I took the shaft out, it was bronze/blue tint, in other words, it had bearing material as well as overheating(blue) on it. I still to this day dont know why it happened, but my theory is that I had been overspinning the poor due to boost leaks.

 

BK, I am pretty sure I know where one of your leaks are. I bought one of those ebay bov adapter pipes along with another local org member and the welds leak like crazy

 

i know what iam jb welding tomorrow

 

 

pic not working

 

why dosent none of your pics ever work?or disappear?

 

Pic of blade damage below

 

Damn thats odd, perhaps a piece of exhaust gasket or something.

 

that looks like a cooked wheel to me.. what do your afrs and timing look like. kinda makes me think that you have to little timing and its over heating the turbine.

 

what are you using to tune your 3rd gen?