Finally got my tune sorted...

Tuned it myself and it runs really well. AFR ranges between 10.5 and 11 at WOT, so is reasonably conservative. Only some very minor adjustments and shes running pretty good. Almost too good to be true actually. The 300ZX MAF seemed to put everything into a pretty sweet spot. For the most part, adding the 300ZX MAF tuned it pretty well.

Deducted some timing - this obviously causes things to get a bit richer, so a little air flow adjustment is done to pull it back. If I keep the air flow adjustment at 0, it ranges 10.3 - 10.7 AFR which is very conservative. Then again, the timing im pulling is not very much. Maximum 3 degrees... i guess this is enough so that its not too advanced, and not causing too much EGT.

I would have liked to pull fuel back using the injector map, but since I only have a emanage blue I can only add fuel using this - which is useless to me.





My setup is listed in my sig below, but basically it's a V2 blower running 11 psi (intercooled), 555cc deatchwerks injectors, vortech trex fuel pump, stock fpr, mevi, 300zx maf, etc.

What do you guys think of my tune?

 

A little rich. Sounds like good base to start. Just get on a dyno and can squeeze some more out of it.

 

map looks pretty good, but aim a little higher on the on afr's.. example 11.5 - 12 should yield you more gains...

Next always had this question and wanted to make a thread on it... I use an apexi neo to tune, and my low throttle tune is set to stop at 30% throttle and high begins at 31%. When i drive around even on the highway i never pass even 25% throttle...

I see your high throttle tune kicks in to gear at 70%, thats a bit high no? I would go a bit lower.. What are your afr's at 50%?

 

adjust the scale so you have more tuning points, that way you can make the af even better

 

if your not going for ultimate power and want it to be nice and reliable i would aim for low 11s in the afr.. that gives you some wiggle room with safety.... things can change with your car and you might not know it.. when i run my car on the road course i aim more for 10.5.. just to be absolutely certain. Another thing with the timing... you might want to set it to pull the most timing right around the point of peak torque.. thats when you need it the most. then you can start to add timing back again as you approach redline.

 

Yea your tune is kinda rich. 11.0-11.2 is more then safe. the fact that you can control timing makes you have the ability to run around 11.5 and still be safe.

I have a spec v thats boosted. I cant control timing and I ran 11.2 all year round with zero detonation. When i installed my meth injection I run 12.2 daily.

Things you can do to add a little more safety is
1. turn back base timing
2. 1 step colder plugs
3. Some kinda alky injection

 

and 15.5 daily

 

thanks for the comments guys. I have tuned her a little more lean. She's running 11 - 11.5 and I have pulled the timing back just a little further as well.

Interesting you should say that timing should be pulled as torque increases. I assume with this, we peak out at around 4,500 rpm in torque? From memory, I remember it to be around this territory. I have been decreasing timing as the revs increase because obviously, I thought you tuned timing based upon an increase in boost. Some people choose to pull timing -1 degree per psi of boost and so on. I run 10.5psi boost @ 6k rpm and this is where i'm pulling the most timing (-7 currently). Are you telling me that I am going about this the wrong way?

Also, the reason for such a conservative tune is that I worry a bit about the climate I live in. We can see days over 100 degrees F and humidity can be high too. It's tuned to 98 octane too. Local petrol station sells it.

Otherwise I'm really happy with the car. It's mega quick. I have driven skyline GTR's and it's very comparable to some very worked GTR's I have come across in my time. It's a bit of a tyre eater

 

I know you


jordandalley - that tune should be fine. enjoy it

 

yea you dont want to pull timing based on RPM.. it has to be based on cylinder pressures which are the highest where you make the most torque. when you turbo an engine that point can move around a little but generally is similar to the N/A peak point as long as your at full boost by that rpm. Then as your rpms continue to increase you can conservatively add a degree or two back in.

 

Sounds like your getting it. Id imagine -7 degrees is fine with 10.5psi with 98 octane. I don't see a problem there. Im in a small town highest I got is 92. Im jealous.

 

I think we measure octane differently here. The USA uses AKI doesn't it? We use a RON measurement for octane. 98 RON Octane x 0.95 = 93.1 AKI Octane (US measurement)

 

What kind of power are u putting down ? Also are you running the 2.62 pulley ?

 

this thread perfectly illustrates why dyno tuning or having an EXPERIENCED street tuner is crucial. all this guesswork could be eliminated in about 30 minutes on the dyno, and you'd KNOW that you have the tune set properly.

anyways, yes jordandalley, you are tuning it incorrectly if you're pulling timing based on boost alone. you pull timing based on torque (which is a direct result of cylinder pressures).

what I'm about to say is just more guesswork, but it's educated guesswork. I think for your setup, pulling 7 degrees of timing is extreme overkill. i'd venture to say that you're losing a ton of power and not gaining anything appreciable in reliability with the timing scheme you have going on, and you're really sending your EGTs quite a bit higher than they need to be as well, which is not a good thing.

again, get it on a dyno and you can have a great tune in an hour without any of the guesswork.

 

I agree, -7 degrees is pretty extreme. There is an area at low 4k rpm that stock timing is 15degrees, minus 7, leaves you with 9 deg(i read ur doing it above 6k, but just pointing it out anyway). You want timing to go up as rpm's go up. Its hard to tune timing on the street, I did it for 2-3 years on the 3.0 and still never knew if it was safe, so I went with the J&S and all the guess work is gone. Either dyno, or get something to listen for knock if your going to street tune it (not just your own ears, too late by the time you hear it).

 

so jordan.. what did you end up doing?

 

Dyno. Nuff said.