Ok i just got a V2 kit...I think everything is pretty much there except oil t fitting and a few other things. I did have some questions though.

1. Do you need that relocation bracket thing for the cam timing sensor?
2. Can i run the stock thermo housing?


Can anyone post close up pics of there setup? I want to start installing asap but don't wanna get everything torn down and have to order something.

Things I DO have

Blower and plate
vortec FMU
piping and greddy BOV
8lb. pulley to start
pulley tensioner- steel pulley
oil feed line
mics bolts to bolt plate to Timing cover

 

i run mine without that bracket for the cps, i know some others do also. i havent had any issues

if u have a v2 bracket, then u keep ur stock thermo housing.

 

ok cool, what r u running for fuel management? like i said i got the vortec fmu but it doesn't have the elec. pump w/ it so i was planning on doing bigger injectors and afpr. I already have vafcII and wideband so i can prolly get by with that and add a bunch of fuel but it will prolly max out my injectors.....idk how much boost u running?

 

whats the disc ratio on that FMU? you will need a an in tank like walbro or an auxillary fuel pump such as the stillen one, both are worth the money. you can not use the stock thermostat....... you should ditch that greddy bov as it will cause compressor surge......

 

idk what disc is in there....just got everything. I already have a walbro 255. y can't i use the stock thermo? some people say u can , some no.....? whos correct and y. thanks. thought it was only the V1 kit that required modded thermostat and housing.

 

my answer was based on V1. not sure about v2...

i made my own kit using matty's starter. its easy. your two hardest parts will be T fitting and upper elbow. everything else is cake.

 

ok finished the t-fitting from work today so thats good. upper elbow....well yea i was thinking bout re clocking the blower. What BOV do you have or think that doesnt cause compressor surge?

 

vortech mondo or either one of the tial's work very well. reclocking blower has nothing to do with upper elbow. thats the piece that goes between MAF and TB. look in the FS section for FI, i have one for sale.

 

100% accurate

 

My advice is to not make things too complicated right off the bat ie bigger injectors, AFPR etc etc. Get it up and running first by utilizing either a Walbro or the aux fuel pump combined with your FMU.

Blitz, Tial, and Vortech Race BOV's are good choices..

 

ok stupid question....started install tonight and thought i had the oil t fitting the correct size. got a brass t with 3 inlets. One i put a extension on to screw into the block, one side for oil pressure regulator and the other is for the "L" for the actual feed. My question is what size r the threads going into the block b/c the brass T i got i thought was all the same size inlets....the oil pressure regulator fits nicely into the one side but the brass extension that i thought was the same size doesn't want to go in the factory location of the oil pressure reg.

Sorry for all the jumbo, but i'm a little tired and stressed from figuring this out lol....

 

brass is not a real good idea




www.summitracing.com should be able to put it together there.

 

ok just wondering what isn't brass a good idea?

 

you should paypal me $5 for that picutre alone...... :O

brass is fine too, but id opt for steel cuz of malleability and heat...... you never know when your axle breaks and decides to damage your T fitting.... ask me how i know

 

ahah yea thanks...but yea mine looks exactly like that but it won't thread into the block....thread pitch seems right but its like 1/8th is a hair to big....

 

clean the threads on the block OR you have the wrong size

 

ok. just to double check though the size i want is 1/8th correct?

 

also i was noticing the pulley that bolts on the inside of the blower next to plate to determine "boost" has a little play from side to side. Is this normal? The 14mm bolt that secures it seems to be tight but before i bolted everything up, wanted to see if that was normal. thanks

 

anyone know the exact size and pitch the oil pressure sender hole in the block is?

 

Maybe this will help??

Taken from teh stickies
OIL FEED LINE,ASSEMBLEY
407500-25 oil feed line -4 s.s braided line 1
407000-17 aluminum spacers, dia 1/2" OD x dia 1/4" ID x 1/2" long 3
402990 M6x1.0x25MM HHCS 3
318110 m6 flat washer 3
407000-56 steel fitting 4m to 1/8 npt m 1
407000-57 steel fitting 1/8 npt m-1/8 npt m 1
407000-58 steel fitting 1/8 fem 3way tee 1
407100-04 adel clamps size sg6 3

If not, try taking the oil sender to HD/Lowes/hardware store and use their bolt diameter/pitch measuring tool in the isle...

 

yea i saw that.....bought a 1/8 fitting and it won't go into the block lol.....

i'm stumped. this is something stupid that i'm sure i'm over looking but i also tried a m10x1.0 thread pitch and it won't go either

 

which 1/8 are u trying??? obviously the npt is not meant to go in the block...

 

ok, what did u use then? honestly i went to several hardware stores bought a few diff types and none of them work. this shouldn't be this difficult. if i knew it was going to be like this i would have gone turbo lol....

 

anyone?

 

Brass will fatigue a lot faster than steel and eventually fracture. Been there, done that, in exactly this same application.

I'm trying to remember about the fitting size. I have a vague recollection that it is not a typical metric size. I believe Nissan used a BSPT fitting for historical reasons. Sorry, I'm not much help.

 

I did some searching, the fitting size is 1/8 BSPT.

You can get an adapter here: http://www.z31parts.com/engineparts.html

It will be halfway down the page.

 

Ive owned all three, and really wouldnt recommended the Tial. It does sound really nice, but when I ran it I always had some compressor surge with it and being that its not adjustable I ditched it for the Vortech.

I will agree with you on just keeping it simple and installing the base setup before going all out for bigger power and boost.

 

no i agree but since i didn't get a complete kit...which i'm kinda regretting now, but anyway can't i just use the walboro pump in combo w/ vafcII to somewhat get it close because its only on 8lb stock pulley right now.....

 

if you order one of those 1/8 bspt adapters let me know so you can order 2 ( ; lol, its definitely smoother than the 1/8 npt,, but on my old turbo car, i used the readily available 1/8 npt fitting, just have to be patient, and get it going, then crank it while keeping it straight. i used brass, had the car for over 4 yrs without any issues , just make sure you get a good 6 complete turns or more in there.it will feel tight after a few turns but its not in far enough and can chip off when you apply pressure vertically.

gl man, hope that play on the blower is not bad, bc if it needs a rebuild you will def wished you had gone the other route..

 

yea me too man.....basically done just need a couple of couplers and 1 bolt. its the M8 x 1.25 x 25mm that goes right below the little plastic pulley under the blower. I tried to make the reg. 12mm hex head work by grinding it down but to get it to work its gotta basically be flush and when i did that, the 12mm hex sides were essentially gone.

but yea i will be super pissed if this blower ends up needing a rebuild and not to mention the guy i bought it from said it had been recently rebuilt....

 

let us know how it goes, im near you , so id be down to check it out once you get all running, ...

 

Stealthmode performance has the adapter for the block you need. http://stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-blockfit.shtml

 

got the fitting......just waiting for fastenal to open in the morning to get that one flat head counter sunk m8 1.25 bolt. then put belt/idler pulley on and pretty much fire it up....

 

Good luck man! LMK how its goes once its all fired up.

 

WTF.....one f***en problem after another. looks like the belt is rubbing on the motor mount....damnit

im soooo regretting getting this kit. should have gotten v1.

 

C'mon man. You're so close. You can do eet!!

There's nothing wrong with the V2 kit. Don't get me started on this topic....LOL

 

aha ok think i got it figured out....its RUNNING BUT the belt is touching each other. i think its because i've got an underdrive pulley and instead of taking the blower back out to get a smaller belt i got a larger idler pulley instead of the factory one (in my case, small steel one) and its causing it to push up into the other side of the belt when the tension is cranked down. tonight when i get off work i guess i'll try putting the stock crank pulley back on it with the steel pulley.

will post late tonight don't get off till 11pm so yea prolly a lil after midnight lol....

 

Get rid of that underdrive pulley....it's worthless and it's actually causing problems as you see.

And more importantly, it's actually robbing you of boost believe it or not. Stock crank pulley FTW.

 

k cool, so u think once i get the stock pulley and tensioner on it will NOT rub?

 

I dont see why it should rub anymore.