I probably changed the alternator for nothing lol.

I am contemplating if to take it back to the dyno or just go to the track (one day lol). I already know the motor makes good power and nothing is wrong.

Also, with higher boost and no muffler, I will not lock up the converter, which means the dyno is going to read about 15% less WHP than what I really have since its not 1:1 or not close to it. With it unlocked, and around 17psi, it will probably show up as 430-450whp or something like that.

So its probably a better idea to go to the track.

Go run at the track. If you are around 120mph we know its running pretty good!

forget the dyno. get to the track and see what it does. less money, more fun.

I agree.

Yo let me ask you, which Rotella did you use on your turbo max? regular Rotella T(nonsynthetic)? I am using the synthetic T6 (5w40)and plan to go thicker, but they only got Rotella T 15w40, which I believe is not synthetic.

I've read that non-synthetic is the best for an Auto because the synthetic is too thin (molecules are much smaller) so you arent able to get the friction between the clutches as well as with the non-syn.

you talking bout tranny fluid? im talking about engine oil, rotella=engine oil

i wasn't using that when I had my turbo but I wouldn't change from it. it's one of the best oils for the price out there. all the turbo nissans I'm involved with in any way use it.

Are you referring to the regular T or the synthetic T6? or both are equally as good?

i wasn't using either when I was turbo'd. I had castrol syntec 10W30.

T6 is what I use now and all the other turbo nissans I'm involved with use (and virtually every other turbo car I'm involved with uses. it's the oil of choice among the people I do car stuff with). it's what i'll continue to use unless it disappears from the market or i see some reason to stop using it. i like the oil reports we have gotten from it.

Yeah T6 has shown great results on all of my oil analysis. However the last one showed chrome to be a little higher than usual, not sure if its related but I get a little bit of piston slap when cold, so I wanted to try out a thicker oil, but they dont have a thicker T6.

could be, I don't know how much of a difference thicker oil makes with piston slap. if the ring wear is being accelerated because of piston slap then that's a problem.

The slapping probably isnt the cause for an increase in chrome, I think the slight increase in chrome might have been due to dry starts, maybe. Been thinking about installing a 1qt accusump for drystarts.

when you say dry starts do you just mean the first start of the day or whatever?

Yes

Chrome should only be ring wear though. How are your ring gaps, close to stock? Way over? What about piston-bore clearances?

You know, one thing I regret about my build, is not getting exactly how much piston to wall clearance was applied. I just told the machinist I was going for high teens in boost, and aprox 450-500hp, I called him after the build and he told me he just went from the spec sheet I supplied. I am assuming he went by w/e Wiseco recommends for that power. As for ring gap, I also did not record the exact gap, however its not stock, it was file fitted for my FI application.

Who did the build?

I did my boy's sentra motor. Gotta keep records of that kinda stuff so you can figure out what to do next time you rebuild the motor. The machine shop went a little over spec on the piston-wall clearance at my request, since the specs were more for an NA app. Just another .0015 or so. Even at that we aren't getting piston slap. Ring gap is a bit loose as well, I file-fitted but with the larger bore they were already big so I could only adjust the 2nd ring, had to leave the tops where they were. So far so good though, motor isn't using oil or making too much noise. We'll see how it responds to more boost when he upgrades injectors.

I did the build, I only left the file fitting to the machinist. Yeah, i regret not having kept record of the exact measurements.

I'd like to see your car against his sentra once you get it dialed in and he gets the boost up where it needs to be. Should be entertaining

im down, we can hit up countyline. I still have vid footage of my car beating your Cobalt when you were spraying lol.

Yeah, the car was not happy that day, couldn't get any grip in 1st and was barely outta second at the end of the 1/8th. Think my best was like a 9.1@81mph or so. Slower than I ran on motor. Your car was neat to watch, being so quiet and running so hard.

His car, is more of a roll-racer. Hard to find grip with the super-short gearing in the spec-v. As is, on 10psi, car will light up all of 2nd gear.

It turns out, all this misfiring that I have been having is due to spark blowout because the voltage amp I have, seems to have failed!!! I have it set at 16v but the coils are getting just 12v. So im going to either reduce the gap, or get a new device.

so how long before you re-dyno or hit the track

+1

Well times are tough right now, so not anytime soon.

ok

?

Lol post whoring ftl.

:yawn:

Any real racer knows that when times are tough, you just knock over some tractor trailers or fuel tankers then overnight the parts you need.

lol

Don't 4get about racing down the interstate and speeding through boat yards

Man it only cost 15bucks to hit the track

$25-$30 Plus gas for 1hr drive, and $30 to fill the bottle.

nitrous is not required, pull the plugs and just clean them and now your down to about 35-40bucks

And if thats the only thing keeping you from the track I maybe willing to paypal you half if you promise to hit the track within a week and report the results

/\lol ill match your donation

the real freaking track!!! full 1/4 (:

One of the suggestion that was made by either my engine builder and Arias, was to have the wrist pin de-centered on the piston. Arias made my pistons with the wrist pin set to 60/40 instead of the 50/50 that Nissan use. Apparently the 50/50 configuration is known for piston flapping, but I was told that this happen mostly at a higher engine revolution. In you situation on cold start it might be due to friction ( oil being down on the pan ) if that goes after a minute or when the engine is warmed-up then this is probably the explanation for your situation, that would also possibly explain why you had higher chrome residue in your engine oil.

Here is a cheap solution to prevent dry start: http://www.wolverineheater.com/engin...ld-start.shtml

Very interesting, yeah I still get slapping specially now that its cold, I have to let it warm up completely then it goes away. I have just accepted it. For the chrome in the oil analysis, I am considering that as a bad batch of oil that I got, because I did another test after with even more engine abuse and results were awesome, chrome went way down.