well its been almost 6-7 months now and i finally have the car together. its a 3.0 auto, foward feed pipe made by bryan163, a t04e .60 compressor .63 turbine, 370cc injectors, z32 maf, front mount piping run through rad. support. ssqv bov, 255 fuel pump, jim wolf ecu., tranny cooler

i actually started the car today but it ran a little rough. it seemed to get better everytime i started it. boost gauge not showing any vacuum at idle? maybe hooked up wrong? smoke from wastegate. i also have the two big vacuum lines, one from front valve cover, other from iacv, that are not hooked up, when i put my thumb over one from iacv car stalled. also there was a little 89 left in the tank when i put 93 in, that had been sitting.

ive gone over just about everything i can think of. and this is all i can find. any ideas as to how to fix these issues would be greatly appreciated.


pics soon!!

 

how do you have the iacv, bov, wg and afpr ran and what excatly do you have running to the front valve cover.

 

the big vacuum line on the top of the iacv is connected to nothing. the valve cover is nothing. the bov and boost gauge are off the intake manifold. and the wastegate is coming off the turbo housing. im planning to just run off of spring pressure right now so i have no boost controller. i started it once more about an hour ago before i came in for the night. it idled on its own but still a little rough. it smells rich and still smoking a bit.

 

Connect the iacv to the back of the intake and the mid pipe after the maf. Do not tee the bov and boost gauge. Hook up a a/f gauge, wb and go from there

 

wats the best wa to run my boost lines. were did you guys tap off the manifold? im going to have to get a barbed fitting and tap my piping somehow in order to hook up the iacv.

 

you could always just remove the iacv

 

well i put a filter on the front valve cover and tapped in a fitting for the iacv. it seems likes its idling a little smoother, but still smells rich and smoking

 

Fresh piping and gaskets always smoke for a while. after putting in my y-pipe several years ago, i thought i had an electrical fire...

Do you have a wideband? Your parts list doesn't include it, but if not, i would recommend getting one.

 

i just bought a narrow band, and i know i know theyre inaccurate. i am hoping that with the jim wolf i wont need one. i started it a few times about an hour ago, and it idled decent but broke up when i revved it. do you think an eigth tank of 6 month old 89 with only five gallons of 93 on a 93 tune would cause it to run this way

 

Are you sure the maf is good? Make sure it is hooked up correctly since it broke up when you revved and make sure you have the right plugs and properly gapped.

 

i havent checked the plugs yet, wat would be a sufficient gap for my setup?

 

install a real wb 02 cause you may need to fine tune the jwt ecu with a safc2 or send it back

 

what color are the injectors?

 

how much did it cost you in parts

 

pics would greatly help

 

purple top, and i havent really got a chance to total up everything haha , ill take pics tomorrow when i do the spark plugs and im going to fill the tank with 93, hopefully that will help. my other vehicles about to crap out so i need it running

 

well i changed the plugs and fuel and checked my maf wiring and it still didnt fix nething ive gone over most of the simple possibilities but cant figure it out

 

why not go for a little "test run."

don't put it into full boost or anything, just a run around the block as such to get everything to read properly and "break in." Just a thought. It's probably your AFR which you need to have tuned

 

I am telling you, confirm your a/f with a wb and check your vac at idle to confirm leaks. If there are no leaks you may need to either send the ecu back or fine tune it with a safc2/vafcs

My car idles like **** without one and trys to stall, I had to install a vafc2 and add fuel at idle on it's fine

 

hopefully i can get bryan to come up and double check me, and if everything checks out ill go from there as far as tuning.

 

If you ever need anything let me know. I live in Mass, about two hours from you, and have a turbocharged Maxima so I understand the frustration of getting everything up and running right.

 

this is my first startup, first build ive ever done so im still a little new to it. ive been arounds cars forever but just general maintenance stuff. i could use all the help i can get at this point haha. unfortunately i dont have access to a wideband, or the money for one right now. i need the car running bad too so its killing me right now.

 

put the stock ecu in, disconnect the charge and drive the car n/a if you have to drive it

btw what is your vac at idle, what does the nbo2 say your a/f is at and did you ever connect the iacv or plug everthing off

 

i have another vehicle but its starting to leak coolant, oil and overheat haha and i dont want to fix it. im busy the rest of the week but hopefully this weekend, im going to redo the wiring on my narrow band because its not reading properly and redo my boost lines, the gauge isnt showing anything. and yes i reconnected the iacv and put a breather on the front valve cover. im just going to redo a bunch of stuff and see wat happens

 

Until we have an idea of A/F at idle it is going to be hard to help. Like t6378tp said, you may need to do some fine tuning in order to get it to idle perfectly. I am currently only using a Super FMU as tuning on my car. It idles ok, but is rough. However, at WOT my A/F is in the 10.5-11 range.
I know you said you don't have the money for the wideband, but it will keep you from breaking something that will cost a lot more than the $200 a wideband will run you. The AEM unit I use is around $200 so you do not have to spend a ton of money to get a nice wideband.

 

i may actually dish out the cash for one next week

 

hey are you the one with the sanapse fmu/fpr thingy

 

No, vortech unit. It is an FMU/FPR combined but not the synapse. I need to get my UTEC in because I am at the limit of what the FMU can do and have been for some time. FMU on a turbo setup is not a good idea because it seems to have trouble with the rapid onset of boost and takes a little time before it starts adding fuel when you are at 2-4 pounds of boost.

 

The nice thing about the AEM unit is that it also comes with a bung so that will save a few dollars. And it is very simple to install. The hardest part is figuring out how you want to run the wiring to the gauge in the cabin because they give you like 7 feet of wiring or something insane. Just ziptie the extra stuff out of the way. lol.

 

fixed the wiring on the narrow band and started the car, it stayed in the rich section of the gauge. im also thinking i have bad ground somewhere, because the dash lights dim with the idle of the car. my cel is also on

 

did you guys run back to the ecu for your 5v source? and also my maf has a orange wire in the f pinout.

 

IT RUN!! haha i redid m maf wiring for the third time, i dont know wat i did rong or wat i even canged haha. but its running smooth now.

 

so you hit boost yet

 

haha ya i took a short ride and it threw me back in the seat. haha i only revved to 5500 rpms too. i was to busy watching the road to look at the boost gauge so i dont know wat its making. still need to do a little tinkering, do m brakes and then itll be set.

 

drove the car today and it wont rev over 2500 it studders

 

check the maf

 

i fixed it, i had changed my boost lines around earlier and when i changed them back and the car ran great. made a few pulls to 7k and hit 7psi. im just running on spring pressure right now. it spun at the top of first gear haha. overall the car felt good luckily it was cool out today and even with no fan the car stayed cool.

 

been driving the car for a few weeks now, and it runs good. except for anything above 5psi. i cant even rev past 4k because thats when it hits full spring pressure. it just back fires and my afr is just straight rich. i fixed the few boost leaks i knew about. yet its still doing it. wat else do you guys think it could be?

 

TUNE TUNE TUNE. Get ahold of a wideband asap. What kind of timing are you running? I run loads of boost I try stay 10.5 to 11.1 afr in boost and around 12.1 in transition so it comes on nice. Lean or rich will be laggy and cut out. Also what did you set your plug gap at and what kind of plugs?

 

ugh. im going to be pissed if i got one of jwts **** ups. i specifically got the ecu from them to avoid tuning. the few ct guys i know running it havent had any problems. i guess im just going to have to get a wideband and see. i cant remember wat i gapped my plugs at. it also idles around 600-700 rpm when in gear. is that normal?