Adjusting Timing with EU + J&S Safeguard for knock detection.
#1
Adjusting Timing with EU + J&S Safeguard for knock detection.
Alright, I'm very close to installing my J&S along side the EU. So just so everyone can knows what I have:
V2 Supercharger 13PSI (roughly 13.6)
Intercooled
Meth
0.31 spark gap
coil boosters at 16v
94 Octane gas
600 cc Injectors
Emanage Ultimate
J&S Safeguard
Stock timing!
Ok so the questions
First off I want to extend my redline to 7k, I know how to do this so thats not the issue. My issue is timing and where to start a tuning the timing map.
When do I start adjusting the stock timing? To how much should I retard it? Should I advance it? How much more should I retard when hitting up to 7k.
I don't know much about timing, just the principles...if anyone can show me there timing map that would be a bonus (plz pm me if you can share your timing map)...
I will street tune it and have it dyno tested next week. I have a 2 hour session booked for me. I want to get it to a point where 7k is reached and the timing is adjusted. Then I'll do the final touches on the dyno.
Just need help on where I should start on the timing.
Thanks
V2 Supercharger 13PSI (roughly 13.6)
Intercooled
Meth
0.31 spark gap
coil boosters at 16v
94 Octane gas
600 cc Injectors
Emanage Ultimate
J&S Safeguard
Stock timing!
Ok so the questions
First off I want to extend my redline to 7k, I know how to do this so thats not the issue. My issue is timing and where to start a tuning the timing map.
When do I start adjusting the stock timing? To how much should I retard it? Should I advance it? How much more should I retard when hitting up to 7k.
I don't know much about timing, just the principles...if anyone can show me there timing map that would be a bonus (plz pm me if you can share your timing map)...
I will street tune it and have it dyno tested next week. I have a 2 hour session booked for me. I want to get it to a point where 7k is reached and the timing is adjusted. Then I'll do the final touches on the dyno.
Just need help on where I should start on the timing.
Thanks
#3
So Ill have about 8 degress of timing removed. I just did a 3d gear pull and my timing was maxed out at 25 degrees. So this will net me 17 degrees.
I'm not sure how to incorporate the timing changes on the map itself. Like 6 psi can be achieved at various rpm's like 5000 rpm. I don't know how to explain it. I'll make a map tonight and post it. Maybe it will explain my confusion.
#4
This is what I would do: first of all, get rid of that dip in timing we have at 4k rpm, which goes down to like 14 or 15deg', I would add like 2 or 3 degree's there. This is the timing map I had when I was tuning via EU. and it is the same timing I will use once I hook up the EU with the JS.
rpm 4k, 4.3k, 4.5, 4.7, 4.9, 5.1, 5.3, 5.6, 5.8, 6.5, 6.8
timing 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21
Now for the JS, basically dont retard anything with the JS. Set the dip switches to retard 2deg per knock and also to retard all cylinders instead of individual. go for a drive and go WOT, if you see the JS light up then it means your timing is too high or you too lean, so then set the Start **** to w/e rpm you wanna start retarding, then set the Rate **** to how ever much you want to retard, remember all the way turned left is zero, middle pointing up means 1deg per psi, and all the way to right is 2deg per psi. the start ****, all the way to the right is 10psi (start).
Basically the goal is to have your timing so the JS gauge does not light up at all, if you see it light up and fill up the LED's all the way to the right, then its retarding alot, if you only see like the 1st led show up then its retarding very little. 1deg. so just turn the rate known a lil too the rate, do another run. Same way you do on dyno's, you advance till it starts to knock a little, then back off a few degree's and thats it.
rpm 4k, 4.3k, 4.5, 4.7, 4.9, 5.1, 5.3, 5.6, 5.8, 6.5, 6.8
timing 16, 16, 17, 17, 18, 18, 19, 20, 21, 21, 21
Now for the JS, basically dont retard anything with the JS. Set the dip switches to retard 2deg per knock and also to retard all cylinders instead of individual. go for a drive and go WOT, if you see the JS light up then it means your timing is too high or you too lean, so then set the Start **** to w/e rpm you wanna start retarding, then set the Rate **** to how ever much you want to retard, remember all the way turned left is zero, middle pointing up means 1deg per psi, and all the way to right is 2deg per psi. the start ****, all the way to the right is 10psi (start).
Basically the goal is to have your timing so the JS gauge does not light up at all, if you see it light up and fill up the LED's all the way to the right, then its retarding alot, if you only see like the 1st led show up then its retarding very little. 1deg. so just turn the rate known a lil too the rate, do another run. Same way you do on dyno's, you advance till it starts to knock a little, then back off a few degree's and thats it.
Last edited by streetzlegend; 10-13-2010 at 08:49 PM.
#6
Nice so after the 6.5 rev limiter hump I can maintain the timing up to my 7k limit?
Just curious but does it matter if your supercharged or turbo charged? I'm still building boost at 4k, wouldn't you be almost fully boosted by 4k?
and thanks streetz
Just curious but does it matter if your supercharged or turbo charged? I'm still building boost at 4k, wouldn't you be almost fully boosted by 4k?
and thanks streetz
#7
I have not messed with extended limiter but, I believe there is a big timing spike (up) after 6500 rpm, so be careful with that, although the JS will protect you, but still.
#8
Alright, well as for passing the rev limit. I'll have to dip into it to see what the timing is before I can lower it. I'll make a couple of 3rd gear pulls tonight and see what my timing is from 3k to 6.5k.
I was also wondering how does timing and A/F affect one another. Like Can I have my A/F at 11.5 or should it be richer? I know that once the timing comes back i'll have more pressure as the spark is closer to top dead center or it is a trial and error thing before it detonates?
I was also wondering how does timing and A/F affect one another. Like Can I have my A/F at 11.5 or should it be richer? I know that once the timing comes back i'll have more pressure as the spark is closer to top dead center or it is a trial and error thing before it detonates?
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