13.9 @ 101.8 mph - Now what?
13.9 @ 101.8 mph - Now what?
Hi all, its been a while since I've been on here but I finally raced the infamous supercharged maxima and got a 13.9 quarter @ 101.8 mph. Atmospherics at the track were 79 degrees F and 60% humidty. This was a night race. My car had all street trim still in it except the spare wheel. Whilst I'm glad it hit the 13's, I want to be able to squeeze just a little more out of it while I can.
Mods thus far:
Vortech V2 SC w 2.62" Pulley (Making 10.5psi through Intercooler setup)
Matty's V1 Plate
TurboXS RFL BOV
Vortech T-Rex Fuel Pump
Z32 MAF
2.5" Catback
DeatschWerks 555cc Injectors
Custom PWR FMIC
FSTB + RSTB
Espilir Super Low Springs
Coby Headers
MEVI
Innovate LC-1 WB02 w XD-16 Gauge
VLSD Auto (RE4F04V)
Transgo Shift Kit
Large Trans Cooler
Konig Netz 18x8 Rims
Greddy MAP Sensor
Hi-Stall Torque Converter
3" Charge Pipe
Greddy Emanage Blue w Ign+Inj Harnesses
Now I'm struggling to decide what to do next. Where do I go from here? Any ideas guys?
Cheers.
Mods thus far:
Vortech V2 SC w 2.62" Pulley (Making 10.5psi through Intercooler setup)
Matty's V1 Plate
TurboXS RFL BOV
Vortech T-Rex Fuel Pump
Z32 MAF
2.5" Catback
DeatschWerks 555cc Injectors
Custom PWR FMIC
FSTB + RSTB
Espilir Super Low Springs
Coby Headers
MEVI
Innovate LC-1 WB02 w XD-16 Gauge
VLSD Auto (RE4F04V)
Transgo Shift Kit
Large Trans Cooler
Konig Netz 18x8 Rims
Greddy MAP Sensor
Hi-Stall Torque Converter
3" Charge Pipe
Greddy Emanage Blue w Ign+Inj Harnesses
Now I'm struggling to decide what to do next. Where do I go from here? Any ideas guys?
Cheers.
Last edited by jordandalley; Oct 30, 2010 at 04:56 PM.
I'm Assuming you have a cold air intake on that car.. and whats your tune like? Your traps seems a little low. My car tight now on a 2.87 pulley is running well was running 13.6@110 with a 2.4 60ft.. Your car has Mevi but something is amiss. Maybe its just me.
Ohh you auto dont know if it will make that much of a difference.
Ohh you auto dont know if it will make that much of a difference.
Forgot to ask are you running an AFPR?? Or is the blue pulling fuel? My car runs rich at start up and sometimes doesnt even start at all but I get a soot of black smoke unburnt gas at startup.
What was the 60ft on that run? Maybe some drag radials or slicks would be a simple way to improve your ETs, if you don't already have them.
Last edited by bryan163; Oct 31, 2010 at 10:12 AM.
Car is not dyno tuned, just tuned to around 11.0 - 11.5 AFR using my WB02. Might be the next best thing to do. Not ditching the supercharger. My low terminal speed might have something to do with the auto right? Long gears and all...
My 60ft was 2.297 - reaction times were pretty bad. Usually around 1 second or so. I'm a pretty amateur racer. Never done it before.
My 60ft was 2.297 - reaction times were pretty bad. Usually around 1 second or so. I'm a pretty amateur racer. Never done it before.
Last edited by jordandalley; Oct 31, 2010 at 06:39 PM.
Car is not dyno tuned, just tuned to around 11.0 - 11.5 AFR using my WB02. Might be the next best thing to do. Not ditching the supercharger. My low terminal speed might have something to do with the auto right? Long gears and all...
My 60ft was 2.297 - reaction times were pretty bad. Usually around 1 second or so. I'm a pretty amateur racer. Never done it before.
My 60ft was 2.297 - reaction times were pretty bad. Usually around 1 second or so. I'm a pretty amateur racer. Never done it before.
Also, your car being an auto should not affect your trap speeds that much.
Get it dyno tuned and it will help you see where you stand.
Good luck with the car.
I was actually quite happy breaking 13's, but now I feel a little disappointed. I'll have to go get that dyno tune then. But in all seriousness how much difference will this make?
It has a hi stall in it, so it should do ok 
Sounds like a dyno tune is in order. However I thought if you kept her on 11.5 AFR you'd make peak power anyway. Is this not necessarily the case?

Sounds like a dyno tune is in order. However I thought if you kept her on 11.5 AFR you'd make peak power anyway. Is this not necessarily the case?
Self tune especially if you are new will yield lower numbers because it's trial and error. A dyno tune will help you get your timing on point because your afr is only half the battle.
jordan, are you saying that you are not pulling any timing? you have only tuned AFR and left timing stock?
being an auto should not have much to do with it, maybe a couple mph but not 8-10mph which it seems like you're missing.
being an auto should not have much to do with it, maybe a couple mph but not 8-10mph which it seems like you're missing.
Ok, so thats the way to go then 
I'm currently pulling 5 degrees of timing at most, but as you said, I'm only guessing.
I'm only going by whether or not my AFR is in check :P
When I pull timing, I notice my mixture seems to get richer. Is this normal?

I'm currently pulling 5 degrees of timing at most, but as you said, I'm only guessing.
I'm only going by whether or not my AFR is in check :P
When I pull timing, I notice my mixture seems to get richer. Is this normal?
Last edited by jordandalley; Nov 1, 2010 at 10:45 PM.
Where are you pulling those 5 degree's? at 10psi through a SC I dont think you should be pulling so much. But ofcourse depends on if ur knocking or not, I dont think you should be.
I ran 13.8@105 with about 7psi non-intercooled, although it was with a turbo, 10psi and all your supporting mods, you should def be trapping higher.
I ran 13.8@105 with about 7psi non-intercooled, although it was with a turbo, 10psi and all your supporting mods, you should def be trapping higher.
Last edited by streetzlegend; Nov 1, 2010 at 10:55 PM.
Yeah, I used to have headers plumbed into the stock 2" pipe and there was pinging between gears - I figured it was the exhaust causing this issue. I fixed this by pulling some timing. Now I have a new 2.5" exhaust and have removed the Cat converter. They're headers basically into a straight 2.5" pipe to the back. Maybe I can run stock timing. It's only 10psi intercooled supercharged. Cool boost...
You just need a tune jordan!! Get that car on a dyno. And where are you pulling timing from? Every car is different on tune. Once you know how to navigate through the emanage you can take the car to a dyno and play with fuel and timing listening in for knocking and watch your numbers go up. My car made 332fwhp with 290cc injectors and the car running super lean upto. I am eager to do a nice cutout and re-tune with the 440cc and headers hopefully I can see over 380fwhp with cutout open and advancing the timing Financing allowing though.
When I went to the 1/4 mile with horrible traction, weird spark blow outs, 3rd not engaging, launch control activating while driving! I was able to get to 105mhp. Also with my 2.87" pulley I see about 13.4-13.6psi with an inter-cooled setup + 3" charge piping.
As for tuning, I never removed a degree from my setup and I made 345whp. Heck to be honest I was making more power by advancing, not a single knock and the J&S did not blink either (on the dyno). But I have Meth + 94 octane gas in the good ol Canada.
As for tuning, I never removed a degree from my setup and I made 345whp. Heck to be honest I was making more power by advancing, not a single knock and the J&S did not blink either (on the dyno). But I have Meth + 94 octane gas in the good ol Canada.
Thanks for the responses guys.. I found a few issues which I assume would have caused a bad time... get this...
When my mechanic put my new transmission in, he didnt bolt the wheel hub or something on properly. Basically.. the front right wheel was only being held on by a pin! Heh.. car drove like ****.. and this was at the track. So glad the wheel didnt come off on the strip.
My other issue was that the PCV valve was leaking. I have put another steel PCV valve in-line with this.
I have simplified my tune also and have removed all timing modifications. Seems to have made the car pick up a bit.
Also, I am seeing my boost drop at 5,300 rpm briefly before travelling upwards again. This coincides with my MEVI activation point. I'm thinking of ditching this because as I see it, all the MEVI is doing is hindering the ability to build boost inside the intake manifold by creating a nice vacuum at 5,300 rpm.
I remember asking the question on here once whether to keep it running under a boosted setup and someone (i cant remember who it was) recommended I should keep it running as it still has benefits - but I'm beginning to disagree.
So my question to you all... the MEVI, to be or not to be?
I'm slowly working it all out.. then its off to the shop for a proper tune.. and I think this time it should be better.
Plus.. NWP spacers look good. I live in the tropics and the intake manifold gets mega hot
When my mechanic put my new transmission in, he didnt bolt the wheel hub or something on properly. Basically.. the front right wheel was only being held on by a pin! Heh.. car drove like ****.. and this was at the track. So glad the wheel didnt come off on the strip.
My other issue was that the PCV valve was leaking. I have put another steel PCV valve in-line with this.
I have simplified my tune also and have removed all timing modifications. Seems to have made the car pick up a bit.
Also, I am seeing my boost drop at 5,300 rpm briefly before travelling upwards again. This coincides with my MEVI activation point. I'm thinking of ditching this because as I see it, all the MEVI is doing is hindering the ability to build boost inside the intake manifold by creating a nice vacuum at 5,300 rpm.
I remember asking the question on here once whether to keep it running under a boosted setup and someone (i cant remember who it was) recommended I should keep it running as it still has benefits - but I'm beginning to disagree.
So my question to you all... the MEVI, to be or not to be?
I'm slowly working it all out.. then its off to the shop for a proper tune.. and I think this time it should be better.
Plus.. NWP spacers look good. I live in the tropics and the intake manifold gets mega hot
Last edited by jordandalley; Feb 20, 2011 at 07:02 AM.
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