well so far the problem has been fixed. i ditched that pos fan that was used on the back as a puller and purchased a high performance derale fan. i'm using it as a pusher on the front so it stays away from the heat of the downpipe. so far its great, did like 4 pulls back to back then drove it around town and hit every traffic light. temp stayed in the middle.

now i just gotta throw in the new clutch but i wanna get a new trans too.....looks like i may say screw it and order a brand new lsd from the dealer

 

glad the new fan is working out for you, any plans to add a/c back to the car

 

if i plan on keeping the kit then yes prolly add a/c. might sell it lol

 

really man you go thur setups, fyi I think if you get the civic condensor and custom lines you'll be able to sell the setup for ALOT more

 

jesus....man i can't get a break. last night i drove from work to the track (to watch) then back home. everything was working great until i pulled into my neighborhood. i smelled some electronic burning. i look and where the power wire runs from the fan into the fusible link right before the relay was melted....it was only where the wires run into the the fuse. i'm wondering what the hell caused the problem. i'm going to look at it after work but it was too dark last night to see anything. its been fine for the past week so y would it burn up now? does the actual switch the i've got inside the car have to be over what the fan.

 

Does the wire or connections get hot

 

well the wire mainly, but if you feel the relay socket it was ok and the relay itself was very warm also. the wire is the power wire from the fan going to the fuse then the relay

 

ok so i cut out the burnt **** and soldered a new fuse junction in there w/ a 30amp fuse. whether the car is running or not the if you grab the side of the fuse and/or the relay itself it gets very warm. i don't believe this is normal....someone jump in. i put a 25 amp fuse and it blew right away as expecting b/c thats what draw the company says the fan draws.

 

pic please.. of ground and power wires. Sounds like bad connection and or resistance in wires or fan itself.

 

what are the specs on the fan motor as in the amp draw, also what size are the wires and the rating on the relay

 

Maximum Fan CFM 2,210 cfm
Fan Quantity Single
Fan Diameter (in) 11.750 in.
Height (in) 12.750 in.
Width (in) 12.250 in.
Thickness (in) 3.190 in.
Number of Blades 10 blades
Maximum Fan RPM 1,680 rpm
Blade Material Plastic
Blade Color Black
Shroud Color Black
Shroud Material Plastic
Amp Draw 23.40 amps
Air Conditioning Relay Included No
Mounting Brackets Included Yes
Mounting Hardware Included Yes
Quantity Sold individually.


pics will be added tomm as its dark right now.....this thing is killing me. i'm soooo frustrated and its my daily and being that i can't drive it right now its costing me even more lol....need to either fix this or ditch it.

gauge of the wire is all i believe 12 gauge or so except for the one running into the cabin to the switch. the fan wires i believe are 14

 

just called no answer

what about the relay

 

GONNA TRY A NEW RELAY TODAY AS WELL AS JUST A FUSE INSTEAD OF RELAY/SWITCH ETC....

 

The switch just energizes the relay correct? In checking the amp rating for 12 ga. wire it is rated for generally 20 amps, I would up the gauge to 10 ga relayed harness.

 

i'll try that because that dam wire is still getting hot. it only seems to be hot near the fuse junction. the small 14 or 16 gauge. wire coming off of the fan doesn't really get warm at all....so idk what the deal is....if i can't fix this sh*t by monday, its for sale

 

these are some of the results I found when researching this problem:

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=251.0

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=116867

 

nice find, but both my ground and pos. are getting hot. the pos. is gettting much hotter than the ground but both are getting pretty dam warm

 

ok so i haven't re done the wiring yet in the fan but i did take a power probe to the fan. odd thing is that when i applied power manually to the fan it would trip the breaker inside the unit......i tried it on my friends fans on his nissan and his bmw and both worked fine without tripping the breaker. his diagnosis is that its the fan motor.....well i must be the un luckiest guy in the world if thats true because this the the 4th fan ive got in since i installed the kit.

i also took out the thermostat. i believe this has helped at least right now...it warms up just fine and stays in the middle without the fan running for 15+ min. that doesn't seem like a lot but with the thermo i would have to cut the fan on after 3 min or so on the highway and let it run for a min to cool it down.

question to anyone really...how accurate is the factory temp gauge.....i mean it didn't feel like it was running hot but i wanna know that its going to read fine even though i took the thermostat out. i wanna get an actual water temp gauge but really don't wanna spend anymore money right now because i'm thinking of moving out of the maxima community. lemme know what you guys think and also where would be the best spot for a water temp gauge to mount. thanks

 

the temp switch should be fine the gauge is a different story

 

ok....so no bueno? will it be accurate if it gets hot?

 

hey bro wats up! long time. Got a 97. Wat should i do, need a motor but dnt have an extra set of hands to help wit ideas

 

Nice set up man. Hope you figure out the cooling issues soon. I look forward to some numbers since i plan on a similar setup in the winter.

 

just had a idea this new fan maybe designed to be a pull only fan and not a pusher. you may want to contact the company

 

it is stated on the summit website as a pusher.....i'll look more into it but idk....

 

dumb question but you sure it's blowing in the right direction

 

yea i mean i looked at the arrow on the fan and it spins correctly and you can feel air pushing through it..i mean i can try reversing the wires but i think then it will be incorrect