What do you guys think? i still have to do a few things to make everything look cleaner but this things a monster lol. i was on 9lbs and turned it up to 12ish last night but the clutch started slipping and i blew a pipe off. i figure being that it started slipping i'm over 400wtq and hp prolly around 415ish. I'm looking into a new clutch and want something that is going to hold the power. What you all think? right now i've got the spec stage 2.

 

Actual setup

Holset HX35 10lbs
Deatschwerks 600cc injectors
Aeromotive Afpr
Z32 Maf
3 in. DP
JWT ecu tuned for my old setup (440cc RC and stock maf)
Vafc II----to fine tune JWT ecu because i'm not waiting another 2 months for a map that is incorrect

 

Not a fan of the filter or the no fogs but I like the short pipe setup. I but it spools QUICK.

Def need a guage pod for the gauges.

How is life w/o an AC?

When my clutch starts to slip I plan on using a southbend clutch.

 

well as you can see if have to room for a real filter so mesh screens doubled up w/ have to do. No ac sucks but its ok. try to only drive it early in am or at night lol. personally i like the gauges there bc you dont' have to turn anywhere to look at them. yes it spools very quick, have full boost right around 3000 or so

 

I am truely jealous that setup was made to power and nothing else. If you disconnect the downpipe at the v-band at should hit full boost 2200-2500. Btw if you want a/c again just you can use a civic ac condensor and get some custom lines made. It was priced out around 150 for everything.

Hope you enjoy the setup, btw is that my old lim? How does turbo compare to s/c

 

turbo>supercharger lol...only thing i was battling was getting hot after a few pulls and sitting in traffic. since i've added the turbo blanket it seems to help out a great deal. yea i wanna run open downpipe for a night but need to relocated my wideband as it comes through one of the plugs in the body underneath the drivers seat that way i can still get a reading w/ no exhaust on it

btw yes that is ur LIM lol. workin good, had to smooth where the fuel injectors go in but other than that its good

 

also what clutch should i get? i was looking at the ACT Part #NM1-XTR4 - Xtreme Pressure Plate, 4 Pad Solid Race Disc - Torque Capacity - 576 ft/lbs. - Retail Price - $558.35 - Your Price - $377 shipped

Part #NM1-XTR6 - Xtreme Pressure Plate, 6 Pad Solid Race Disc - Torque Capacity - 576 ft/lbs. - Retail Price - $580.79 - Your Price - $389 shipped

Part #NM1-HDG6 - Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, 6 Pad Sprung Race Disc - Torque Capacity - 463 ft/lbs. - Retail Price - $555.37 - Your Price - $372 shipped

Part #NM1-XTG6 - Xtreme Pressure Plate, 6 Pad Sprung Race Disc - Torque Capacity - 576 ft/lbs. - Retail Price - $620.37 - Your Price - $411 shipped
which would be decent without breakin the trans. i remember someone say something about the xtreme pressure plates being bad or something. i think i will end up making more than 460ft lbs tq on high boost so idk if i should try that or go all out.....its a daily driver but i don't mind about some rough engagement

 

clutchnet 3x pp 6 puck sprung disk. I have thrown everthing at this clutch and it has not shown any signs of trouble.

 

ur the 2nd person that has said that.....looks like i may be leaning towards clutchnet

 

Told you

 

there should be a wbo2 bung in the 1st part of the downpipe already

 

Looks awesome Justin! Surely gotta be a monster! Props.

 

awesome get that thing on a dyno

 

ahha yea mann i'm trying. need to get a stronger clutch asap to hold more than 10lbs...lol

 

I liked my exedy stage 2. Don't know if that could hold on your car though.

 

yea i ordered a stage III clutchnet. They rate them at a crazy 570wtq or something like that

 

Very nice setup

 

you better order a spare tranny too cause that clutch is going to break it

 

Is one fan enough to keep it cool?

 

it is...kind of lol...need to get one more gets a lil warm in traffic on a hot day but being that i have no ac i try not to drive it during peak heat hours lol....

t- it shouldn't break it under normal driving eh? stillenmax has had his for a while and knock on wood his trans is fine

 

Question, on the charge pipe there is a black hose coming off of it(before the throttle body) where does that go to?

 

likely to a IACV plate

 

Why turbo the car if your going to drive like grandma? If your making power and get a clutch with ruff engagement and no give something is going to break and everyone knows the tranys are weak. I have been fully in gear punch it and broke the teeth right off.

 

your funny lol

 

FML....just made it home after a terrible night. went to to actually drive to philly for some races and my car started over heating. i have the fan wired up to a relay and a switch/fuse. so 2 days ago the fuse pops and it starts over heating. i'm like wtf, its never done that since i installed the kit. so i put a bigger fuse in it first and the fan came back on. 4 miles later it blows again. so i cut the relay out of the mix and just ran it from the batt. through a fuse into the fan w/ no relay. that was fine and got me home the other day. so tonight i do the same thing after it pops thinking that will be ok and it popped again but w/ out the relay. So i'm thinking something is obviously shorting out and/or overheating causing it to blow. so to get home tonight i just fan power wire straight to the battery. came on so i drove it nice and easy home. i get home and cut the car off and the fan wasn't on but the wire was still connected to the battery. idk when it fried on the way home but i made it about 40 miles w/ out overheating.....

could this all have been from a bad fan motor? i'm stuck and need to get another fan anyway since i fried mine but what do you all think.

 

does the fan turn on by temp or with the car. maybe the wire is too small for the load or something is touching

 

fail for loosing youre ac... but now that you did it, get a real fan with a full shroud to help pull air through the entire radiator and order a fan relay kit with proper heavy duty connections and wiring. those fans without shrouds dont pull alot of air.

being ober 400 whp... put it on the dyno as soon as you get the cluth so we can find out (: we can play whose closer game w me calling 365 whp / 360 tq

I hated the sprung 6 puck cluthes, the xtd act w a street disc would have held without the chatter ...

go to the yard, and look for a honda radiator and shroud it may prob work well too, and then a condenser will def get you ac back w custom lines.

the car is running strong, now spend a few more bucks to make it reliable and keep it froom overheating.. and get beeds made for the intercooler piping so it stops blowing off.

 

the fan is on a switch so i have it running basically all the time after the car gets temp into it. the wires i would say are fairly small like 14 gauge maybe smaller. i don't feel that anything was touching but we will see....

 

Very nice setup, I bet you don't miss that supercharger at all! A few questions though, your power steering tank is missing, did you switch to manual steering? Also, what type of radiator is that (Honda?) and where did you get it and how much did it cost? Does it cool as well or better than the stock unit?


For you guys that are recommending custom A/C lines/fittings, where can you get these and what is the approximate cost?

 

You can get the lines at napa or this guy on the nyc forums. It cost about 100-150

 

Most likely the motor is shorted it outside. Go to the junkyard and pull new fans.

 

i had fun with that kit i hope you enjoy it as much as i did, as for the fan it never gave me problems, is an ebay fan so maybe its time to upgrade and i recomend a low temp thermostat

 

ok so switched out the fan, and started the motor in the garage and let it idle for 10 min then began to rev it up and down to get heat build up to see if it would overheat. this was while the new fan was off as soon as the temp kicked above half way i flipped the fan on and tried to cool it down. it didn't get any cooler but it stayed where it was...i'm hoping this should be good enough especially since i wasn't moving and had zero air flow to it...

i will find out in about 6hrs when i go to work lol

 

ok so i'm sooo pissed. put a brand new hayden 12in fan from advance auto parts and it seemed to work pretty well drove it to work then on the way home it got a lil warm. i opened the hood and saw that the fan wasn't running. i'm like wtf. apparently i must have gotten a dud or something because if i pull the pos/neg wires at an angle the fan will start running but sounds like the motor is now out of round. kind of a rah rah like almost scraping noise...idk if i got a defective one being that it may have about 45 min of run time on it. how much voltage can u run through those things before they give out? the original fan from the og. buyer worked fine for about a month and gave out. (i figured just because of the age.) but since this one only lasted a day (well less) i'm wondering if i got a bad one or its something with my car running too much voltage. according to the vafc the alt. is putting about about 14.2 volts at idle and about 15 an change when moving which i know seems like a lot but its been like that for the past 4 + years. What do you all think/suggest for another brand of cooling fan. thanks

 

the voltage shouldn't be the issue as I have my fan be it thur a relay and temp switch getting power directly from the battery for over 7yrs

 

yea mine is through a relay and then a switch inside the cabin...how long did that fan work for you. its just my luck that everything is crappin out now lol. radiator is leaking, fans done etc....

 

the fan on my truck has been setup like that for over 7yrs, a local member has his fan so it cuts on when the 2nd fan would and it keeps the car cool but he his a full size rad but just one 16inch fan. The orig owner of this kit had the fan wired so it came on with the car and it worked for over a yr. I think both had the fan setup so power was provide via the stock harness thou and the activation signal from other source

 

hmmm idk what do you think of both of these setups. the first one looks like the indentical setup and the other has a nice shroud but a nice price too lol
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_4947wt_1167

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yonak...#ht_4853wt_941

 

I am pretty sure you can make your own shroud for a 150buck

also why not just get the rad repaired, I mean a quick weld job shoud do it right

 

Hopefully you get the issue resolved. Heat is the worst enemy.